Mango’s strategy involves integrating sustainability into its business system and business model.

The Spanish brand’s initiatives have included the elimination of the committed label in favour of an informative QR code, the publication of a complete list of its fabric and accessory suppliers and the launch of its first collection of recycled and recyclable denim.

By 2025 the target is that all of the cotton used in the brand’s garments will be sustainable, all of its polyester will be recycled and 100 percent of its cellulosic fibers will be responsibly sourced. Production processes will be used that help reduce the environmental impact of Mango’s products, such as using less chemicals and water in the manufacturing process of the circular denim collection.

Garments will be made with a single type of fiber or fewer accessories in order to increase the recyclability of the products. Another way would be to design more durable garments by using carefully selected materials with certified physical properties, with reinforced construction and a timeless design. Yet another way would be to take maximum advantage of the materials used and recycling textile waste. Accessories such as trimmings or jacron labels would be eliminated. The production technology will use minimal amount of chemicals and water.

Technotex, organized by FICCI is being held in Mumbai, February 22 to 24, 2023. This is an exhibition on technical textiles.

The event will provide a common platform for interaction among stakeholders from across the global technical textile value chain.The three-day exhibition cum conference cum buyer-seller meet seeks to envision Indian technical textiles at 2047. It exemplifies the immense potential for trade and investment between India and foreign countries in the technical textile sector.

It pools in participants, visitors, and other key decision makers from a diverse cross section of the technical textile industry, aiming to provide more innovative solutions, identify new business opportunities and create an environment congenial for growth.

As the global technical textile industry continues to grow, India is poised to benefit from the expansion. Domestic consumption and export are both expected to grow rapidly in the next few years, making this an important time for the industry. The end use of technical textiles caters to a wide variety of industries, thereby making it a high value sector. A variety of industries benefits from its products, including those in the automotive, agricultural, home care, construction, aerospace, protective gear, and healthcare sectors, as these products have improved functional qualities like greater tenacity and strength as well as better thermal and chemical resistance.

India aims at being a leading technical textile production center.

Hohenstein has developed a new standardized test method for detecting and classifying the environmental effects of textiles during washing.

The test method shows how many fibers are released during textile laundering, how well these fibers degrade in wastewater and how harmful the fiber residues are to the environment.Biodegradability alone does not mean that pure natural fibers, for example, are completely harmless to the environment. They, too, remain in ecosystems until they completely degrade and can also have a negative impact.

In addition, additives, auxiliaries or finishes used in textile production can further slow the degradation process and leach into the environment. The new standard enables textile producers and suppliers to test, evaluate and compare products for fiber release during washing and environmental impact. Washing textiles releases microfibers into the wash water, which cannot be sufficiently retained by wastewater treatment plants.

Synthetic fibers pose the greatest risk to the environment because of their longevity and inability to biodegrade.

With more than 40 offices and laboratories, Hohenstein is an international partner for independent testing, certification and applied research around the human-textileenvironment interaction. Through standard or customized testing, and interpretation of the results, Hohenstein solves problems, verifies claims and helps partners bring better, safer products to market – more sustainably.

From January 2022 to November 2022 the European Union’s imports of readymade garments increased by 22.39 per cent compared to the same period of 2021.

The EU’s garment imports from China in the first eleven months of 2022 grew by 19.29 per cent compared to the same period of 2021. Apparel imports from Turkey increased by 11.65 per cent. The EU’s imports of readymade garments from Cambodia grew by 35.89 per cent, Vietnam by 34.16 per cent, Pakistan by 27.99 per cent, Morocco by 8.13 per cent, Sri Lanka by 17.32 per cent and Indonesia by 27.80 per cent. And imports from Bangladesh grew by 38.39 per cent. Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter to the EU market while China and Turkey occupy the first and third highest positions respectively.

Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the European Union grew by 16 per cent during the first half of the fiscal 2022-23. However Bangladesh’s apparel exporters see 2023 as being more uncertain. Every country is facing high inflationary pressure due to the ongoing war between Russia and Ukraine. Despite all negative indicators, there is optimism about getting some benefits on specific items as many entrepreneurs are investing in the capacity to produce manmade fiber-based garments.

Sports Edit is on Marks & Spencer’s online platform. The British fashion retailer acquired the fast-growing sports platform at the start of 2022.

The launch features over 200 sportswear and apparel products across women’s activewear and apparel from third-party brands. Dedicated sports platform Sports Edit features expert sports content curation where one can shop by brand, activity, or product type, with all of the advantages of shopping with M&S—such as free click and collect to over 700 stores—to offer customers a seamless shopping experience.

Through Sports Edit M&S aims at offering customers an online sports retail platform which is a one-stop-shop for health and wellness.As well as housing third-party sportswear and apparel brands, the sports retail platform will have a distinct look and feel. M&S’ website will now feature product inspiration including winter ready workout tops and running trainer picks plus wellness content.

The popularity of sportswear amongst M&S customers, particularly those shopping womenswear who seek high quality versatile products, identified a clear opportunity for M&S to expand its offering as it continues to build on style, quality, and value perceptions.The launch continues to build on the retailer’s market-leading position in full price women’s activewear sales, with third-party brand partners complementing the core range and filling gaps in product areas.

The Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition is a highly anticipated textile platform that will take place in Shanghai, China from March 28-30, 2023.

The event is designed to meet the growing demand for high-end apparel products by exhibitors worldwide. The exhibition will feature a diverse range of products, conveniently grouped in various zones to make sourcing easy and create more collaboration opportunities.

Various zones for product segments

SalonEurope, a premier hub for fabrics and accessories, will be hosting suppliers from nine countries including Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Switzerland, Turkey, and the UK. The Italian Zone will showcase prestigious mills displaying signature fabrics made from cotton, man-made, functional, and wool materials. Exhibitors such as Lanificio Di Pray SpA, a leading jacket manufacturer, will demonstrate how to combine high-quality Italian wool fabric with natural, pure fibers such as cashmere, alpaca wool, yak wool, linen, and silk.

The Premium Wool Zone will showcase luxury wool sourcing options from Italy and the UK. Exhibitors will present innovative products alongside traditional premium wool fabrics in response to the ever-evolving market. One exhibitor, Successori Reda SpA, is a renowned manufacturer of sustainable Merino wool fabrics and recently launched a new Merino fabric blended with cashmere, silk, and linen fibers. They are the first Italian textile company to receive a B Corp Certification.

Verve for Design will feature creative textile prints and pattern collections from designers in Argentina, Denmark, Italy, Korea, and the UK. Fusion CPH from Denmark will exclusively sell each of their unique designs, providing clients with ready-for-production output files, saving them time and allowing them to place orders flexibly.

Country pavilions showcasing sectoral strengths

The exhibition will also have various country and region pavilions where international exhibitors will showcase their products. The Japan Pavilion will feature 37 companies known for quick delivery, small quantity orders, and product availability, presenting high-quality fabrics made from man-made and natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and silk.

Over 20 exhibitors from the Korea Pavilion will exhibit a wide range of fabrics used for ladies, casual, functional, sports, and outdoor apparel. The Korea Textile Center (KTC) will bring nine members to the fair, presenting functional fabrics, jacquards, polyester woven, and nylon spandex for outdoor, sportswear, ladieswear, and casualwear to buyers.

The Taiwan Pavilion will feature ten exhibitors displaying a variety of products from regenerated and synthetic yarns and fibers to lace, embroidery, and functional fabrics. The Hong Kong Pavilion, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), will showcase knitted fabrics and accessories such as reflective labelling, lace, ribbon, and embroidery.

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2023 is co-organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, and the China Textile Information Centre. The exhibition will take place alongside the Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles, Yarn Expo Spring, CHIC, and PH Value at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai).

Gucci and Kering have launched the first hub for circular luxury in Italy.

Gucci is part of the global luxury group Kering. The hub will foster breakthrough innovation to accelerate the circular transformation of luxury fashion. Starting from raw materials and design, through to production optimisation and logistics, the circular hub will be an open innovation platform for the design and manufacturing of circular products and the scouting of new solutions.

The hub will support the creation of circular luxury products of the future - products that maximise the use of recycled materials, durability, repairability, and recyclability. The hub will see the involvement of Kering’s facilities, starting with Gucci’s production sites, its Italian-based raw material suppliers, and finished products manufacturers (comprising more than 700 direct suppliers and 3,500 sub-suppliers).

The hub’s activities will then be extended to Kering’s other brands and eventually become open to the entire sector.By sharing the same objectives and pooling resources, knowhow and synergies, the hub will enable the entire luxury supply chain and especially the small and medium-sized enterprises - the heart of Italy’s industry - to play an active role, with the innovative spirit that makes Italian knowhow unique in the world.

Driven by record high cotton prices amid a global shortage last year, India’s cotton import bill surged 200 per cent in the 10 months to January 2023. Imports picked up sharply between July 2022 and December 2022. India imported close to 1,750,000 bales in the second half of 2022 compared to 4,90,000 bales in the same period last year.

To ease pressure on the industry, customs duty was waived on cotton imports. Popularizing high density planting, farm mechanization, providing policy support to scientists and technology to increase productivity and giving a thrust to research-oriented agronomy are some other important way-forwards to increase India’s cotton productivity at least to the world cotton average productivity mark.

Stagnant production

While cotton prices have eased due to a global demand slowdown in the meanwhile, stagnant cotton production is especially worrying as prices of textiles have risen consistently over the last three years. Clothing and footwear were among the major contributors of headline inflation in fiscal year 2023. The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has reduced India’s cotton crop size to 33 million bales down by 9,25,000 bales from the earlier projection for the 2022-23 season in its latest outlook.

Global production is projected down 3,00,000 bales and largely attributed to lower yields in India. Consumption is forecast down due to lower use in India, Indonesia, and Vietnam.

The comeback of denim was already evident during the January menswear shows and was even more pronounced during the recent Milan shows. Each designer offered their own unique interpretation of the trend, showcasing their sensitivity and taste.

Brands and designers offer their unique interpretations

Diesel, a well-established luxury denim brand, opened the Milan shows with its unique aged effects juxtaposed with tulle and flocked velvet strata mixes. The brand offered highly innovative and strong research denim pieces, encouraging self-expression and freedom, as denim has always been perceived.

John Richmond, a British designer, strongly supported the return of jeans, given his origins in the denim world. For f/w 2023/2024, he presented a wide selection of total looks that included trousers, jackets, dresses, coats, and down jackets, as well as boots, shoes, and accessories. Among the elegant attires was a black satin jacket with denim-like printed lapels. The pieces in this special party collection all looked super-ripped and heavily aged denim, but appearances can be deceiving as most of the pieces were made with silks, satin, and jerseys. Richmond explained that he photographed aged denim pieces and printed the motifs on the collection's items. He also mentioned that some pieces were made with real ripped off denim fabrics, creating a game and a challenge for consumers to recognize which denim was real and which one was just printed. The final result was incredibly chic and fresh.

Giorgio Armani's newest project, the second edition of the Armani - 10 Corso Como collection, was entirely made from denim. The new capsule combined an unmistakable style with the exploration of unexpected territories, offering a total look rich in nuances. The entire collection, from blazers and dust coats to blouses, shorts, and clean-cut trouser suits, featured denim in thin and elongated forms with supple silhouettes. The intense blue of the unwashed denim complemented the soft cognac-colored leather detailing on each garment. The look was completed with boots and the La Prima bag, also made from denim, resulting in a compact and essential wardrobe of different pieces that can be combined for different occasions.

Rocco Iannone's new Ferrari collection showcased cool interpretations of the blue cloth fabric, reinventing workwear overalls and aging the iconic fabric with fringed logos and irregular treatments that expressed the chic and exclusive world that the iconic Ferrari red car embodies.

Different fits, cuts and looser variants set trend

The trend also featured lots of different fits, often resembling pajamas, sailor-style or boyfriend cuts. Every interpretation was allowed, but looser variants in denim total looks or worn with wide blazers stolen from a man's wardrobe, as seen at Gucci and Seafarer, were popular choices. Kiton presented a drapey lucid denim business woman suit version, offering yet another interpretation of the trend.

Vietnamese apparel firms expect global demand to decrease by nearly five percent this year.

This may result in a 25 per cent decrease in the number of orders. Major importers of Vietnamese apparel such as the US, China and Korea have reduced demand since October 2022. Demand from the European Union and Japan is still maintaining positive growth but lower than what was in earlier months.

In the near future, some 35 percent of apparel makers in Vietnam may suffer from a shortage of orders while the remainder may face price pressures. The sector is facing competition from countries like Bangladesh, India and Indonesia.

In the meanwhile Vietnamese apparel firms have been busy so far this year completing orders on the back of incentives brought about by free trade agreements that have already taken effect. The sector is still able to produce mid and high-end products, which is seen as one of the ways to accelerate exports. Businesses also plan to invest in modern technology to improve business efficiency and workers’ income. In order to achieve sustainable development, the sector will continue calling for investment to the material supply chain, building sale solutions, and developing automation, digital governance, a transparent business environment and a high-quality workforce.