Resale’s growing appeal has done little to slow down the problems it is supposed to help solve— overproduction and overconsumption, says retail analytics firm Edited. Despite reports of a glut of inventory while consumers pull back on spending due to the recession, the fashion industry is still overproducing. The study shows new fast-fashion product drops online for men’s and women’s wear average over 47,000 individual styles per week in the US alone. The figure is up 11 per cent from 2021 and 120 per cent from 2020 when production was severely reduced due to Covid.

Allowing customers to resell used goods doesn’t cancel out the impact of the enormous amounts of disposable products continuing to drop. Circularity is a fundamental cornerstone of sustainable fashion, yet against continued overproduction levels, resale alone can’t be the solution. But pre-loved merchandise is booming due to several factors. These include: society’s increasing support for a circular economy, Gen Z’s love for thrifting and the profits a reseller can make by offering rare and limited edition pieces. Resale platforms may offer styles from the archives but they usually sell through before they have the chance to go stale.

Brand play in resale

Some brands shine brighter in the resale market than others. Telfar, is currently the top secondhand brand to give sellers the best return on their overall investment. Its value retention exceeds that of Hermès. Its collaborative pieces with Ugg, Moose Knuckles and Eastpak have great appeal in the secondary sector and its now sold-out large shopping bag is now being hawked on some US sites with a price increase of up to 132 per cent.

However, scarce luxury items are still the sources of the most dramatic markups. Birkin and Kelly bags by Hermès have elevated prices of up to 2,554 per cent across US resale sites and 5,308 per cent in the UK. Old Tom Ford-designed Gucci pieces fetch up to five times their original price in the UK as well.

Interestingly, this phenomenon is not limited to luxury. New Balance shoes command lavish price points. But not all brands perform well as resold items. Secondhand pieces by both Off-White and Diesel can be cheaper anywhere between 48 to 90 per cent compared to their original due to factors such as consumer demand or product quality. However, this is not necessarily to these brands’ detriment. Price-conscious Gen Z consumers can use these deals as a gateway to developing future brand loyalty when they can afford to pay retail.

Zara has released a denim range for children. This is a range fit for a circular economy. The denim collection was designed with its whole life cycle in mind.

Fabrics used to make the collection include a minimum of 98 percent cellulose-based fibers and contain at least five percent recycled content from textile origin to reduce the consumption of virgin materials.Most fabrics in the line are made with 80 percent cotton and 20 percent recycled cotton.All components that are added to the fabric can be easily disassembled for reuse or recycling.

For the children’s collection Zara has added removable buttons and tried to avoid metal rivets or zippers. Interior pocket bags include information about how the garment is designed to be recycled.

Styles in the collection for children closely mirror the comfort and utility trends seen in women’s fashion. The unisex line includes a worker jacket, cargo jeans with an elastic waist, wide-leg relaxed fit jeans and loose fitting jeans with a ripped knee. For babies, the collection offers a denim overshirt, overalls, pullover denim shirts and a collared dress with pockets.Sizes begin at nine months for babies to 14 years in children’s. Zara merchandises the denim pieces with cotton navy and cream striped long-sleeve tops and waffle knit tops.

Pure London, to be held February 12 to 14, 2023, will champion sustainability.

Purely Sustainable, a dedicated destination, will showcase a carefully curated selection of conscious exhibitors leading the way in addressing their environmental and social impact.The new Purely Sustainable destination will continue to raise the profile of ethical and sustainable fashion across the entire event, helping lower the industry’s carbon footprint and invest in a better future.

Showcasing sustainable brands and ethical designers with a story to tell, it has been launched to help the fashion community navigate this growing priority, push for progress, and support the industry in its sustainability journey. In 2018 Pure London launched Power of One, an initiative designed to empower retailers and suppliers to take small steps towards changing the impact of fashion. Pure London has continued to develop this initiative by informing exhibitors of the challenges facing the industry and how to take steps to overcome them, curating a rich program of expert speakers to tackle the issues in lively discussions and by taking practical steps to become a more sustainable event.

The fashion industry is being challenged to become more sustainable and the global ethical fashion market is growing by 30 per cent a year.

There should be no anti-dumping duty on viscose staple fiber imported from Indonesia. So says Sima.

The Directorate General of Trade Remedies (DGTR) has recommended an anti-dumping duty on viscose staple fiber imported from Indonesia. The anti-dumping duty gives a protection to the tune of 28 per cent to the indigenous VSF manufacturer. Much of the imported raw material, machinery, etc., attract only five per cent to 7.5 per cent basic customs duty while such an abnormal protection is totally unwarranted and on the contrary would greatly affect the entire VSF value chain.

Rejection of the recommendation to impose the duty would ensure the survival of micro, small and medium spinning mills, the decentralized powerloom and handloom sector and also the garment sector. Over two lakh powerlooms in Tamil Nadu had diverted to viscose staple fiber fabric manufacturing and enabling value added exports. The levy would again make fabric manufacturers switch over to imports that would have a serious impact on spinning mills. In the past various path breaking policy initiatives had been taken to address the raw material structural issues, especially manmade fibers, the future growth engine of the Indian textile industry, by removing the anti-dumping duties levied on various raw materials including PTA and MEG, polyester staple fibers, acrylic fiber and viscose staple fiber.

Finland is Europe’s best country for sustainable shoppers. So says Savoo.

The northern European country also reduced its consumption footprint by an impressive 20 per cent between 2010 and 2020, which is the fourth biggest reduction after Italy (26 per cent), Sweden (21 per cent) and Greece (20 per cent).

However, flea markets and antique stores are one area that Finland falls behind in, with just 53 in total to cater to its 5,540,720 population.Denmark is second, having reduced its consumption footprint by 14 per cent between 2010 and 2020. Ranking in third place is Slovenia, which produces an estimated 34 kg of household waste per capita each year. The United Kingdom ranks in sixth place overall as Europe’s most sustainable shoppers.

Home to nearly 68 million people, the country has almost 1,300 flea markets and antique shops available. Zara has been named the most popular second-hand brand, with over 670,000 listings on reselling platforms. Clothes reselling platforms are becoming incredibly popular in recent years. From shopping second hand to avoiding plastic packaging where possible, shoppers are increasingly adopting more eco-friendly habits.

Interest is continuing to grow and more cities are adapting to a more sustainable and healthy lifestyle.

Handa Industries uses Coats Digital’s FastReactPlan as the cornerstone solution of its digital transformation program.

This will enable Handa to manage its increasingly complex supply chain more effectively and optimise production operations to meet the growing customer demand. Coats Digital’s FastReactPlanwill enable Handa to digitally transform its production processes, enabling it to respond agilely to more complex order requests, streamline production processes and improve its on-time delivery targets. FastReactPlan will become the cornerstone solution of Handa Industries’ digital transformation program and will be used to integrate and connect other data sources into a single platform to ensure optimum visibility for all production teams.

Based in China, Handa is an integrated fashion supply chain pioneer, producing fashion garments in a myriad of categories, from high-end sports apparel to fast fashion, producing over 50 million pieces a year.

FastReactPlan is a dynamic, highly visual production planning and control tool that optimises delivery, efficiency and lead times. It is designed and developed specifically for the fashion manufacturing industry, and helps enterprises integrate capacity, critical path and materials into an integrated planning system.

Coats Digital is the software business of Coats Group, the world’s leading industrial thread company and a trusted industry player.

Ghana has suspended the subsidy on residual fuel oil (RFO). This has compounded the country’s textile industry’s challenges.

Inflation and rising utility prices have already put pressure on business margins. The subsidy on RFO was withdrawn to ease the financial burden on the Price Stabilisation and Recovery Account (PSRA). The move is meant to ensure availability and supply of the product – a low grade of fuel oil, which contains the undistilled residue from atmospheric or vacuum distillation of crude oil and is mostly used by manufacturing industries.

Due to increases in global fuel prices and exchange rates, funds accrued through the Price Stabilisation and Recovery Levy – used in paying for subsidies on RFO and premix fuel – were not enough to meet the demand. The policy directive takes consideration of the growing concern about the sustainability of the account to meet under-recovery payment obligations for premix fuel and RFO.

At the start of the year 2022, the subsidy on RFO was 55 percent; then it was slashed by 15 percent around July and completely suspended at the start of November. Suspension of the subsidy is expected to lead to an impending shortage of textiles for the country in the coming days.

The Chinese fashion and luxury market has had a rough year. Waves of strict lockdowns throughout 2022, especially the two month long one in Shanghai, wreaked havoc on fashion spending.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton experienced severe double-digit declines in China. Compagnie Financière Richemont’s jewelry division also witnessed double-digit sales declines in China. Swiss watch exports to China slumped 18 percent in the first ten months of 2022. Chanel saw double digit negative growth in April in mainland China, where five of its 16 boutiques there were closed, while 35 fragrance and beauty stores — roughly equivalent to a third of its network — were also shuttered.

China didn’t scale back the lockdown measures until thousands of people began to protest in late November.By December, China had abandoned most of its rules on mass Covid testings, the track and trace system, and quarantines.Even amid the lockdowns, those brands that were well prepared for the situation came out stronger, while some went the extra mile to consolidate their presence in the market. While China is still performing below 2021 figures, it is expected to recover between the first and second half of 2023.Chinese spenders are expected to account for between 40 per cent and 45 percent of the total consumers of personal luxury goods by 2025.

Esprit is being rebranded. This luxury California apparel brand has had a rough couple of decades.In its heyday in the ’80s and ’90s, it was known for its high-end clothing like sweatshirts. But most of its US business dried up in the 2000s, and the company’s German and Hong Kong business began to lose their luster with shoppers.

The major restructuring began in 2021. The company is completely refreshing its assortment and plans to unveil all the new designs later in 2023. Decades like the ’80s and ’90s are in vogue these days, which gives Esprit the chance to resonate well with multiple generations. Nostalgia happens to be resonating with the current generation and consumer who has been through a lot of very stressful times over the last couple of years.

Since consumers find aspirational brands to be something to look forward to, and since things were quite more open and freewheeling in the ’80s, Esprit wants to start by reconnecting the consumer with nostalgia. But this is not just a brand from the ’80s, it is now a modernized version of Esprit. The brand will globally be created, designed, thought through, photographed all in New York City. And it will resonate globally from there.

David Jones will be acquired by private equity firm Anchorage Capital Partners.

The iconic retailer’s current owner, Woolworths Holdings Limited, and Anchorage Capital Partners entered into a binding agreement that will see Anchorage acquire the David Jones operating business.

David Jones is one of Australia’s leading omnichannel retailers, and the oldest continuously operated department store under its original name.Founded in 1838, it currently has 43 stores across Australia and New Zealand and employs 7500 people.

Anchorage is one of Australia’s leading private equity firms with extensive experience in retail and consumer investments over 25 years. It has fully backed Scott Fyfe as David Jones CEO, together with his management team, and plans to contribute their financial investment to accelerate the company’s existing Vision 2025 strategy.The deal is expected to complete by the end of March 2023.Interestingly, the deal is not expected to include the department store’s flagship store.

David Jones had been delivering sales above pre-Covid levels. Trade in the prior period was impacted by the extended lockdowns, resulting in relatively higher growth rates in the current period compared to the prior period. David Jones’ turnover and concession sales increased by 55 per cent for the period.