A coalition of 65 influential European and French organisations has formally urged the European Commission to endorse France's landmark ‘anti-fast fashion’ bill, signaling a unified front against disposable apparel models. Spearheaded by the European Environmental Bureau (EEB), the Open Letter arrives as textile waste in the EU hits a staggering 5.2 million tons annually. The bill targets high-volume, low-cost giants like Shein and Temu, which currently flood the EU market with approximately 4.5 billion parcels per year, a figure representing nearly 20% of all online clothing sales.
Strengthening EPR to curb overproduction
The draft law seeks to fundamentally rewrite Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) rules, proposing an environmental surcharge of €5 per item starting in 2026, rising to €10 by 2030. Unlike standard eco-taxes, this surcharge is modulated based on ‘eco-scores,’ penalising retailers that release thousands of new styles daily while rewarding those using recycled fibers. This shift is critical as the EU transitions toward mandatory Digital Product Passports (DPPs) by 2027, aiming to bridge the transparency gap where currently less than 1 per cent of global textiles are recycled back into new garments.
A cornerstone of the legislation is a total ban on advertising for ultra-fast fashion, including influencer-led "haul" content, effective January 1, 2026. By targeting the digital marketing engines that drive compulsive consumption, France aims to protect its domestic retail sector, which has seen heritage brands like Naf Naf struggle against ultra-low-priced imports. This move aligns with a broader EU-wide push—supported by eight member states including Spain and Italy—to remove customs duty exemptions on small imported parcels, a loophole currently costing the EU billions in lost VAT and duties.
Formally known as the Proposition de loi visant à réduire l’impact environnemental de l’industrie textile, this bill is the world's first legislative attempt to specifically define and tax ‘ultra-fast’ fashion. It implements a bonus-malus (reward-penalty) system for textiles, bans
