China’s General Administration of Customs (GAC) has threatened action against H&M for manufacturing low-quality, hazardous products that fall below China’s quality and safety standards.

As per a Jing Daily report, nine batches of H&M cotton dresses for girls were found to contain harmful color additives and other chemicals that might be hazardous if ingested or absorbed through the skin.

However, the Western media alleges that Beijing is singling out global fashion brands that made statements on forced labor in Xinjiang. And while some actions might appear retaliatory, China isn’t the only country to accuse the Swedish retailer of producing low-quality garments, despite its sustainability pledge.

In recent years, Western styles and trends have lost influence. With the rise of patriotism came a revival of traditional Chinese culture and fashion trends, but international fast-fashion retailers ignored the new reality and continued to promote the same old Western designs. Moreover, H&M didn’t get localization right. In fact, H&M clothing items have a strong Western aesthetic that doesn’t resonate with Chinese customers.

Chinese netizens argue that H&M’s only leverage is that it commands lower price points. But that cannot be seen as a competitive advantage in a country like China, which is known as the largest producer and exporter of clothing, textiles and apparel.

Chinese consumers already have access to trendy, low-cost clothing designed by domestic players in accordance with the taste preferences of local consumers. As such, China doesn’t need affordable Western brands.

In the near future, H&M needs to expand its product lines to incorporate items that reflect the local culture. Moreover, the Swedish retailer needs to improve the quality of its ready-to-wear line and take its sustainability and social responsibility pledge more seriously.