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Unesco recognizes Indias Telangana textile heritage
Telangana, a state in Indi aknown for its unique textile crafts has been listed by Unesco.
These include Siddipet Gollabhama saris, Himru weaving and Gongadi sheep wool blankets. Unesco has listed the histories and legends behind the textiles, especially the strenuous efforts put in by weavers. A lot of effort has gone into identification and collating a representative sample of Indian textile crafts from across the country that merit special consideration.Siddipet Gollabhama saris have motifs are woven on the pallu (the loose end draped over the shoulder) and on the lower border but none on the upper border. The body of the sari is plain or has motifs. These saris are made of cotton. Another important feature of Gollabama saris is that the motifs are not woven on the loom but made entirely by hand.
Telangana has revised the intricate and near extinct Pitambari saris, Siddipet Gollabhamasarees, Teliarumal weaving, HIMRU weaving and Armoor silk saris. Now, the state is coming up with Ramappa saris to commemorate the Ramappa temple being recognized as an Unesco World Heritage Site.
Handmade textiles appear to be fast dwindling in the face of the demands of modernity. In this context, it is absolutely essential that handmade textiles are taken stock of, and that they are properly mapped in all their diversity.
Shima Seiki makes pattern matching easy
Shima Seiki’s automatic cutting machine with pattern matching capability leads the fabric onto a conveyor, reads the position of the pattern with a scanning camera and auto adjusts the marking data according to the fabric pattern.
Pattern matching can be time consuming but with Shima’s technology it can be completed in an instant. The scanner reads the pattern and the cutting results in hems and all sewing parts matching up in their patterns. When the fabric passes through the scanner it is read and converted into data. Distortion of the scanned fabric is graphed and marking data is adjusted accordingly. All marks are adjusted at the same time, removing the need for manual work. When auto pattern matching is complete the data is sent to the cutting machine. Once the fabric is in the cutting area the scanner takes a new image and then the cutting takes place, uninterrupted. This creates efficient cutting as these things happen simultaneously and the time needed to realign mismatched patterns is removed from the process. When combined together or used separately, 3D sampling of new woven fabrics alongside this pattern matching technology could drastically reduce lead times and material waste.
Based in Japan, Shima Seiki is celebrating its 60th anniversary.
Nylon margins improve in China
The margin of nylon 6 filament yarn in August 2022 was improving in China.
The nomination price of upstream HS chip was higher than the final settlement.However, the price increase in the spot market basically ended in the first half of September, with NFY prices following up in time, thus repairing the deep decline in margin rapidly. The profit condition of NFY plants in September was better than that in June to July.
In recent years, the price spread between nylon 6 DTY 70D and semi-dull HS chip has been on a downward trend. In 2019-2021, the annual average spread dropped from 4850yuan per meter to around 4500yuan a meter. The decline was relatively mild.Even with the strong recovery in demand in 2021, the spread has not widened. In addition to the relative firmer stance of raw materials, the continued expansion of DTY capacity is one of the main reasons. This is also why when demand has weakened in 2022 the supply-demand conflict for DTY is significantly greater than for other products such as FDY.
A wave of expansion was driving in the peaking period of the nylon industry in 2017-2018. However, after the downturn in 2019 and the epidemic in 2020, many expansion plans were postponed to 2021.
Luxury cashmere clothing grows at three per cent
The fashion luxury cashmere clothing market is growing at three per cent a year.
China is the world’s largest supplier of raw materials, accounting for about 70 per cent of cashmere in the world. China is also the largest consumption market. Although China is the largest cashmere garment manufacturer in the world, its own brand market share is very low. Most of them exist as OEM. This has led to local enterprises in China being at the bottom of the value chain.
Cashmere is a fiber obtained from cashmere goats and other types of goat. The fiber is finer and softer than sheep’s wool. Cashmere clothing is made from cashmere and cashmere yarn, including various sweaters, coats, trousers and other garments. Fashion luxury cashmere clothing mainly refers to a clothing product with customers in the middle and top income population.
The United States holds a 19 per cent share of the global cashmere clothing industry. The Asian region is the major manufacturing base due to the low labor cost and material cost. Most reputed brands have their plants or cooperative manufacturers in the region. Recent years have seen the global cashmere knitwear market outgrowing the luxury apparel market, with dressed-down, comfort-led trends like athleisure becoming the main driver of demand.
Bangladesh exporters face debt-ridden French retailer Camaieu
Exporters in Bangladesh are worried about the recovery of their outstanding payments from the debt-ridden Camaieu.
This comes as a shock, especially at a time when the export sector in Bangladesh is going through hard times because of the economic slowdown in some key export destinations including the EU in the wake of the Russia-Ukraine war.
Camaieu is a French fashion chain. The clothing retailer was declared bankrupt two months after being granted a moratorium. That moratorium has now been converted into a judicial liquidation. All assets are being liquidated to pay off the mountain of debt. Camaieu has had about $300 million in annual business with Bangladesh’s apparel exporters. Camaieu made a relaunch in 2020 and was then taken over by real estate group La Financière immobilière bordelaise but the Covid pandemic weighed heavily on the already weak retailer. The closure of Camaieu may affect Bangladesh’s overall export growth at least to some extent. Camaieu was a major buyer in the French clothing market.
A number of buyers including fashion retailers JCPenney and Sears, based in the United States, and fast-fashion retail chain Peacocks and department store chain Debenhams, based in the United Kingdom, have gone bankrupt in recent years.
Indonesia aims at being Muslim fashion hub
Indonesia aims at being the center of Muslim fashion.
Indonesia’s main strength is the wealth of handmade fabrics and products. Unfortunately, that strength is also a weakness. Local artisans usually take quite a long time to create a piece of batik and tenun (handwoven fabrics), which will also affect the fashion designers’ timetable. And the country will be facing fierce competition mainly from Turkey, which is both a producer and a large consumer of Muslim fashion.China, backed by its strong garment and textile sector, is also a tough competitor to Indonesia’s Muslim fashion industry. Indonesian brands have to import quality silks from China and getting customs clearance takes time, which hampers production. So the industry has to improve internally.
Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world and highly creative fashion designers as well.Indonesia’s exports of Muslim fashion in the first half of 2022 were a 39 percent increase from the same period last year and Indonesia is currently the biggest consumer of Muslim fashion in Southeast Asia. However the country is still number 13 on the list of the biggest Muslim fashion exporters, with a market share of only one percent and is way behind Dubai, Vietnam and Bangladesh.
Italian brand Cifra adopts best practices
Cifra is accelerating on environmental best practices for advanced and sustainable sportswear.
Every single process is certified in the entire value chain as well as the yarns used. In July 2022 Cifra started an innovative 124-kWp photovoltaic system that will avoid further CO2 emissions into the atmosphere and is going to be further implemented over the next three years. This has been made possible by structural interventions and planned investments towards greater efficiency such as full electricity supply from renewable sources.
All items made from recycled, raw and dyed yarns are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified, the most important international standard for the sustainable production of garments and textile products made from recycled materials.
Cifra, based in Italy, produces tailored knitwear based on the patented warp-knit-seamless technique. These are unique garments capable of shaping the body and are also designed for either the most extreme sports or as more contemporary upper casuals.
Redesigning the future of the textile industry is an ambitious yet attainable vision. Many companies already, especially in the sportswear and outdoor sector, the most sustainability-oriented ones, have accepted the challenge of a new industrial model capable of producing sustainable garments without having to give up on technical performance.
Cambodia raises minimum wage
Cambodia has raised the minimum wage for textile, garment, and footwear workers.
In addition to the minimum wage, workers will also receive attendance bonus, travel and accommodation expenses, meal allowances and overtime and seniority bonus. Workers who are paid based on productivity can earn more than the minimum wage; however, if the amount they produce earns them less than the minimum wage, then the employer has to add the remainder.
The textile, garment, and footwear industries are the lifeline of Cambodia’s economy. These industries are the country’s largest employers with over 7,00,000 workers and represent 80 per cent of total export earnings. Cambodia’s exports of textile-related products increased 15 per cent in 2021 from 2020. The industries suffered at the height of the pandemic. Nearly half of all factories in the first half of 2020 had to halt production, either temporarily or permanently.
Cambodia wants to develop textile, garment, and footwear manufacturing into sustainable, high-value-added industries, capable of supporting economic diversification. The strategy focuses on strengthening human resource capabilities and productivity and creating better career paths for workers, improving worker welfare and working conditions, increasing foreign and domestic investment with a focus on producing high-end products and developing new export markets.
Bangladesh exports to Canada face duty
Once Bangladesh graduates from the least developed country (LDC) status, its readymade garment exports to Canada are likely to face duty. The duty may be 17 per cent to 19 per cent. As of now Bangladesh’s exports are duty-free.
Bangladesh’s apparel exports to Canada witnessed a robust 33 per cent growth in fiscal 2022 after a 13 per cent growth in fiscal 2021.
Japan, Australia and Canada are three potential markets for Bangladesh beyond the traditional US, EU and UK markets.
Bangladesh’s imports from Canada are less compared to exports.Bangladesh and Canada may form a blue ribbon panel to explore possibilities of expanding trade and investment. The signing of a bilateral investment treaty between the two countries would go a long way toward increasing foreign direct investment from Canada to Bangladesh.
Sustainable economic growth, health, and education are the three areas Canada wants to work on in Bangladesh. The country is also working to strengthen garment worker safety in Bangladesh. Canada wants to expand in the services sector in Bangladesh, such as aircraft safety.
Canada is a country of some 37 million people, with French and English as official languages. It is a leading as well as growing trading partner of Bangladesh, providing export opportunities.
US to host luxury summit
Luxury Law Summit Americas will be held in the US, November 2, 2022. Senior executives and lawyers from global fashion brands including Burberry, Louis Vuitton America, David Yurman and Diane von Furstenberg are among the headline speakers.
The one-day conference will explore how the US luxury goods industry is adjusting to the post-pandemic environment and amid a backdrop of increased economic uncertainty.Participants will hear about the luxury outlook for fashion, trade and economics as well as the challenges around luxury, politics and sustainability. There will also be discussions about current trends in luxury travel, the world of luxury jewelry and the secondary art market.
A number of workshops will also be available throughout the day. K&L Gates is hosting a session on fashion’s role in politics, diplomacy and social change. Epstein Drangel is hosting a session on copyright issues in the fashion industry. Steptoe is hosting a session on how to navigate California’s strict consumer protection laws and Greenberg Traurig is hosting a session on brand protection and partnerships. Speakers include Beth Hughes, vice president of the American Apparel and Footwear Association and Gabby Hirata, CEO of Belgian fashion label Diane von Furstenberg.












