A global leader in developing innovative fiber and technology solutions for the textile and apparel industry, The Lycra Company has launched Lycra ® Dual Comfort Technology for ready-to-wear (RTW) and wovens. As per Textile Focus, the latest innovation will help the company transform its garment categories by providing functional performance benefits with the sustainable features that today’s consumers desire.

The Lycra® Dual Comfort technology combines comfortable stretch and cooling comfort with long-lasting shape retention. The technology is based on the new Lycra® T400® A EcoMade fiber. Created with a proprietary process, the new fiber delivers the texture and appearance of a spun yarn, offering low-impact, comfortable and versatile garments with thermal comfort.

FORT technology is the perfect solution for the emerging ‘new utility’ trend that blends rugged performance with tailored elegance and is designed to cater to the needs of cross-segment apparel categories – workleisure or outleisure.

British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) has launched a five-piece circular denim collection designed in line with the Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign guidelines.

As per a Sourcing Journal report, the collection uses non-stretch fabrics made with organic cotton and a minimum of 25 percent recycled cotton. As part of the guidelines, the jeans are also free of metal rivets which can hinder the recycling process, and jeans were tested to ensure they maintain their quality after a minimum of 30 home washes.

The line includes women’s mom and boyfriend jeans, a tapered jean for men, a mom jean for girls and a standard fit for boys. The collection is now available exclusively on the M&S website, with prices from 18 pounds to 39.50 pounds.

In 2021, M&S set new standards for its denim supply chain. According to these standards, all cotton used for M&S clothing would be responsibly sourced, with the majority collected through the Better Cotton Initiative, which helps farmers reduce their water usage and increase their profits. The company pledged to reduce water intake during the wash process by using technologies from sustainable finishing tech firm Jeanologia. Standard indigo dyes were also swapped for cleaner alternatives that require less water and fewer chemicals to produce.

Following similar moves by Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Kering, Chanel and Prada, Burberry has temporarily shut stores in Russia following Moscow’s invasion of its neighbor Ukraine. As per a report by The Guardian, the British fashion brand has three stores in the country, including one run by a franchisee and one in Moscow’s famous Red Square.

The brand’s Russian site is operational, though international orders are likely to be disrupted further by Visa and Mastercard’s decision to pull out of the country, resulting in the majority of foreign transactions being blocked. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, owner of brands including Christian Dior, Givenchy and Bulgari, has also shut 124 boutiques in Russia while Kering, which owns Gucci and Saint Laurent, plans to close its two shops in the country.

To address the war directly, Giorgio Armani organized a silent fashion show in Milan last week to show solidarity with Ukraine. However, the company is yet to confirm whether it has shut or suspended its operations within Russia in line with some of its rivals. Increasing operational and reputational risks of trading with Russia and the impending dangers of sanctions are weighing heavily on stocks across the luxury sector.

Bangladesh and India can complement each other in the development of apparel and textile industries of both countries, says Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA. At a meeting with Narain Aggarwal, Former Chairman, SRTEPC, Hassan urged for more collaboration and cooperation between the two neighbors to explore avenues towards deriving two-way trade benefits.

Both entrepreneurs discussed possible areas of collaboration between BGMEA and SRTEPC to identify mutual business opportunities and work to make the best use of them. They also discussed the possibility of both the associations working together to create a bridge between apparel and textile businessmen of Bangladesh and India to facilitate meaningful business interactions.

Hassan said, Having a strong textile industry producing man-made fibres and fabrics, India can meet the demand of Bangladesh’s RMG sector that plans to diversify its products from cotton to non-cotton. Aggarwal also urged BGMEA’s exporters to participate in the upcoming exhibition ‘Source India 2022’ scheduled to be held on March 20-22, 2022 in Surat, India.

In a recent meeting, Jasmin Uddin, President, The Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) urged apparel makers to focus on manmade fiber garments to cater to the global demand. The apex trade organization president also asked exporters to add more value to their exports by diversifying into new product categories. Further, he called upon the entrepreneurs to brand Bangladesh in an innovative manner.

A safety council has been set up at FBCCI to ensure the safety of non-export-oriented factories, informed Uddin. The council is working with the BIDA to secure all the industries in the country, he added. Farque Hassan, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the association is conducting a study on how to explore new items and how to expand their investments through identifying new opportunities.

Mohammad Halem, Executive President, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association, (BKMEA) proposed forming different sub-committees on the banking and financial sector, power and energy, finance ministry, and labor ministry to solve problems of the garment industry. The other committee members cited harassment of customs and bond commissionerate to be the biggest problem. They also urged for the amendment of existing laws for waste recycling.

Intimate apparel and innerwear show Curve registered 1,300 buyers to its latest edition held at the Jacob K Javits Convention Centre in New York. The show offered visitors an opportunity to network and exchange information besides nurturing connections, says Raphael Camp, CEO, Eurovet Americas, organizer of the event.

Buyers browsed new styles from approximately 125 intimate apparel brands with about 10 per cent of them being first-time exhibitors such as Cosabella, Chantelle, Panty Promise, Va Bien and Cammando, as per a Women’s Wear Daily report. Buyers from e-commerce sites searched for sexy offerings and at least a partial return of underwire bras.

The Lingerie Brief Salon featuring upcoming designers was a new addition to Curve New York. The show moved to Los Angeles for Curve Los Angeles and was held at the Cooper Design Space from March 6 to 7, 2022. The show includes swimwear for the first time, followed by the addition of activewear in either the summer or fall Curve shows. The group also plans to hold Curve Montreal in Canada this fall to coincide with Montreal Fashion Week.

Tiruppur garment exporters are watching to gauge the impact of the Ukraine-Russia war on their business. Every month, Tiruppur exports garments worth Rs 1,200 crore to the European Union. It exports account for 40 per cent of the Tiruppur’s total exports to the EU. Several brands in the EU supply to Ukraine and Russia.

The war has led to container shortage in Tiruppur, slowing down container movement again. This is likely to increase freight costs in the city says Raja M Shanmugham, President, Tiruppur Exporters Association. The sanctions imposed on Russia may affect several countries indirectly. Suppliers’ failure to sell in Russia and Ukraine may affect their buying, he adds. This may have a deep impact on the global economy, he adds.

Tiruppur Exporters’ Association was set up in 1990 under the leadership of A Sakthivel and strived for the development of exports. The association has always been quick in taking up issues and standing in the forefront to get them addressed. A Sakthivel was the president of association till September 27, 2016 from the inception of the association.

The denim manufacturing industry in Pakistan is strengthening its position in the global market with the rise of hi-tech players like the Artistic Denim Mills, Siddiqsons Group, Naveena Denim Mills, Azgard Nine, Rajby Industries, etc in cities like Karachi, Lahore and Faisalabad.

The industry offers locally made products of exceptional quality that give importers the best value for money, says Juan Chaparro, Group Director-Supply Chain, Sourcing and Quality, Primark. This is boosting the prospects of denim exporters like ADM even as COVID-19 dented the global denim trade.

Changing in style preferences boosts growth

A major reason for the industry’s growth is the change in style preferences among some consumers that has led to up gradation of wardrobes. Consumers are stocking denims with looser fits and wider-leg silhouettes from global brands ranging from Levi’s and American Eagle to Madewell and Abercrombie & Fitch.

\The growing casualization trend is boosting the popularity of denims in Pakistan, adds Jen Sey, Executive Vice President and President, Levi’s.

As per an OTEXA report, between January and September in 2021 Pakistan saw the largest year-on-year growth rate 63.4 per cent among the top five, denim apparel exporters to the US.

The country’s exports to the EU also doubled from 2015-2020, as per the 2021 CBI report. The exports benefitted from the exodus from China, cotton issues from Xinjiang, increased prices and supply chain concerns, says Muhammad Tariq Rafi, Chairman, Siddiqsons Group.

Increased networking for greater branding

The Pakistan denim industry mainly benefits from the medium-staple cotton grown there. Its’ other advantage includes long-term build-up of investment and clustering of infrastructure, adds Faisal Ahmed, CEO, Artistic Denim Mills. Over the years, the industry has witnessed a growth of vast network of smaller manufacturers who are making inroads into the industry

However, the industry suffers from a lack of perception, say industry experts. Its volatile political climate and negative image across the world, causes denim industry leaders to lose sales to competitors, adds Ahmed. To improve Pakistan’s national branding across the sourcing industry, the country’s denim suppliers are visiting clients with large stocks of denim samples in tow to trade fairs around the world, says Sheikh Raza-ur-Rehman, Director-Marketing, Garatex.

Energy crisis and labor issues

Manufacturers in the country are currently facing energy crisis, which they are resolving through privately-owned generators and gas supplies, adds Ahmed. The industry also suffers from labor rights issues.

As per Fair Wear Foundation report published in 2021, Pakistan has ratified 36 out of 189 International Labor Organisation (ILO) Conventions to date. Also, only 28 per cent of its garment workers are women.

With a greater emphasis on sustainably sourced materials across the fashion industry, the denim supply chain in Pakistan is attracting greater scrutiny due to larger impact on the environment. However, exporters are now adopting sustainability measures in the form of waterless technology, recycled materials and sustainable fibers. They can continue growing by improving their sustainability credentials and overcoming long-standing issues like labor exploitation and energy shortages.

Bangladesh’s woven garment exports are likely to face strict rules-of-origin (RoO) requirements in its major destinations, including the European Union, after Bangladesh's LDC graduation. Exporters may need to comply with double-transformation requirement irrespective of their access to GSP or GSP-plus schemes.

Bangladesh is largely dependent on imported fabrics for woven garment manufacturing as local spinners can meet 35-40 per cent of demand of woven exporters.

Absence of infrastructure, mainly shortage of gas, required policy supports and financial matters, is discouraging entrepreneurs from making fresh investment in woven fabrics manufacturing, say experts

The share of woven garments to the country's total exports declined by at 37.40 per cent in the last fiscal while it further dipped to 35.38 per cent during the first half of the current fiscal year, 2021-22, Bangladesh Bank quarterly review shows.

MD ShahidullahAzim, Vice President, BGMEAadds, the decline in exports can be attributed to a decline in demand during the pandemic as most people stayed at home.

The future success of the textile fabric finishing industry depends on the coordination between the finisher, the machine supplier, chemistry suppliers and other technology providers, says Regina Bruckner, Chairperson, VDMA.

VDMA member companies in this market mainly act as partners on the technological aspects of the finishing processes, adds Bruckner. These VDMA specialist finishing suppliers will showcase their advanced systems at ITMA 2023.

Automation can reduce water usage in dyeing

Over the past few decades, dyeing machines have helped garment industry reduce water consumption significantly through their design and control technology.From 105 liters in 1980, the industry has been able to save 28 liter of water per kg on medium shades during the finishing stages of pre-treatment, dyeing and after-treatment.

To reduce water usage further and achieve sustainability goals, the entire finishing process needs to be automated. The productivity rates also need to stabilized and increased by reducing unproductive waiting times and increasing occupational safety.

Automation of storage, weighing and dispensing systems also prevent workers from coming into direct contact with chemicals and dyes. On the other hand, digital storage systems help manage stock levels and generate orders precisely when they are required.

Reducing waiting times through advanced systems Specializing in finishing technologies, VDMAcompanies offer advanced high-performance dryers, along with heat recovery systems, minimal application units, energy saving motors etc. These companies assist customers reduce their line set-ups and waiting times via automatic batching systems.

Further, these companies ensure process optimization through advanced control systems for parameters such as exhaust humidity and heat setting, with batch sequence optimization according to temperatures.

They also provide customers with energy management systems, assistance systems and process simulation and expert systems to maximize production output and minimize energy consumption.

Digitization can address labor shortage VDMA member companies also ensureapplication of minimum application technology by introducing new production methods. They can address skilled labor shortage and ensure reproducible quality results through digitization and Industry 4.0. Process simulation on a PC can help these companies optimize process parameters before commencement of production.