Developer of innovative fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, the Lycra Company has won intellectual property rights including patents and trademarks for denim products, from the China National Intellectual Property Administration. The company recently initiated several infringement suits related to dual core and multi-core patents for denim against third parties in China. These parties were selling fibers and goods the Lycra Company deemed to infringe on Lycra brand patents.

The Chinese National Intellectual Property Administration then issued a decision in support of Lycra Company patents for two invalidity challenges. Subsequently, the Jiangsu Authority informed the company that its patent has been upheld in both these cases.

The Lycra Company also supports customers and licensees in patent challenges related to products. In two recent cases, two licensees in Europe turned to the company for technical and legal assistance for their own patent litigation defenses related to the company’s dual core patents. This assistance helped bring about wins for the licensees against the challenger, the company said. The presiding court ruled the licensees were not infringing on the other company’s patent.

Levi’s has negotiated cotton prices for the first half of 2022 and expects cost of products to increase 1 per cent in the first half of 2022 compared with 2021 levels. For the second half of 2022, the company hopes to negotiate prices to a mid-single-digit percentage increase compared with 2021 levels.

Reports suggest, the 18 per cent rise in cotton prices over the past month has sent Levi’s shares down 5.1 per cent while the S&P 500 index has increased by 0.4 per cent. Share prices of fast-fashion retailers H&M and Inditex too have declined by 4.9 per cent and 4.6 per cent, respectively, while Gap’s share prices fell 2.2 per cent.

Levi’s average selling prices have increased more than 10 per cent compared to 2019 while gross margins have surged 10 percentage points compared to a decade ago, during the last cotton price surge. The brand’s gross margin in the last quarter grew almost 5 percentage points compared to pre-pandemic levels. On the other hand, gross margins of Hanesbrands grew just 0.6 percentage points in its last quarter compared to pre-pandemic quarter, while Zara owner Inditex’s margins increased by just 1.5 percentage points.

Rising domestic demand amid limited supplies may lead to a 36 per cent fall in India's cotton exports in 2021/22 from a year ago. This may support global cotton prices, which recently jumped to its highest levels in a decade on account of strong demand from top consumer China.

Sumeet Mittal, General Manager-India, Louis Dreyfus Company says, India’s exports may decline to 5 million bales in the new season as demand in the local market has been increasing. In 2020-’21, India exported around 7.8 million bales, the highest in eight years, as the state-run Cotton Corporation of India continuously sold from its warehouses keeping Indian prices competitive, he informs. Higher exports and local demand have depleted carry forward stocks to 6.5 million bales in the new season that started on October 1, from 12.5 million bales a year ago.

Good demand from local mills and a rally in global prices have lifted domestic prices MCOTc1 to a record high this week, tapering the advantage India had over other suppliers. Leading cotton producing states including Gujarat, Maharashtra, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh received heavy rainfall in September. This could impact the early-sown crop in all these states, adds Chirag Patel, Chief Executive Office, Jaydeep Cotton Fibers.

In H1 ’21, US’ underwear imports increased 7.52 per cent to $2.01 billion from $1.86 billion in H1 ’19, reports Apparel Resources. Compared to H1’20, US’ import values surged by 70.96 per cent indicating market of underwear in the country is on an upward trajectory. India’s contribution grew 9.26 per cent and clocked om $176.70 million in revenues in total US underwear imports.

As per IBIS world, the US’ lingerie market is projected to grow over 4.4o per cent from 2021 as changing lifestyle of US women consumers is incurring increased spending on fitness and related accessories, which has positively impacted the market growth. US’ import of shapewear was up 11.70 per cent in H1’21 touching $ 1.37 billion as compared to $1.23 billion in H1 ’19. The availability of a wide range of products, such as control camisoles, corsets, body shapers, singlets, and body briefs, is likely to boost the market growth even more in the US in months to come. India shipped $21.65 million worth of foundation garments to the US in H1 ’21, noting a significant decline of 47.87 per cent as compared to $41.53 million that it had clocked in H1 ’19.

The US crossed pre-COVID levels in kid’s wear import valued at $1.10 billion during the first six-month of 2021, as compared to $1.05 billion in H1 ’19, increasing by 4.89 per cent. The growth is attributed to rising momentum in back-to-school shopping in the US, before that the growth came from clothing purchased by parents for their kids’ virtual classes.

Nightwear imports touched $870.07 million in H1 ’21, up 38.50 per cent from H1 ’20 when the value stood at just $ 628.19 million. Import of dressing gowns increased 7.30 per cent to $284.93 million from H1’19. India’s exported dressing gowns worth $ 3.37 million to the US in H1 ’21, a 10 per cent decline from H1 ’19.

Largest fashion trade show during Shanghai Fashion Week, Ontimeshow, plans to expand its fashion showcase and showroom functions. This season it took over Tank Shanghai, a contemporary art space converted from oil tanks and a short walk away from its main venue on West Bund, to meet the increasing demand from local designers.

YeliGu, Founder, Ontimeshow, said, the organizer has just signed another five-year strategic partnership with West Bund to help the area reinforce its positioning as the city’s up-and-coming art and design district. In return, Ontimeshow gets to steadily expand its presence in the desirable location.

This season West Bund is also offering the majestic dome-shaped show space Dream Center for designers, with Ontimeshow’s showroom business RoomRoom showcasing their spring 2022 collections.

The lineup includes first Chinese Fashion Fringe Winner Haizhen Wang, the first Chinese Woolmark Prize winner Qiuhao, LVMH Prize-short-listed Susan Fang and Xiao li, and Angel Chen, who became known internationally with Netflix’s fashion reality show “Next in Fashion.”

Other brands to watch this season at Ontimeshow include Annakiki, By Fang, Deepmoss, Evening, Judyhua, Masha Ma, Renli Su, Roderic Wong, Sweetpotato Chiu, Wan Yi Fang and Yingpei Studio.

After receiving the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, and successfully exhibiting as special project at White Show Milan, Portuguese brand Duarte will showcase its Spring/Summer 2022 collection in Lisbon.

Streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection - mostly gender neutral - in which the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication includes and supports a holistic view.

Ana Duarte is a Lisbon based designer and Creative Director of sustainable sportswear luxury brand, Duarte. She draws inspiration from her love for sports, nature, colour, and comfortable yet feminine personal style. Conscious about the body and movement, her pieces are ergonomically designed. She creates for people who wear clothes for their love for the story behind them. The pieces are about the details, quality finishes and materials, allying classic tailoring and sportswear techniques, the garments are made to last a lifetime.

According to the export report published by the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters’ Association (ITHIB), Turkey’s textile exports increased by 41 per cent to $8.2 billion during the January-August period of 2021. In August, the sector’s exports increased by 36 per cent to $1 billion compared to the same period of the previous year, reaching the highest August export figure of all time.

AhmetÖksüz, Chairman, ITHIB, predicts, by the end of the year, Turkey will reach its export target of $12 billion by breaking the historical record of the Republic. Together with the ready-to-wear industry, the industry aims to have a foreign trade surplus of $18.6 billion at the end of the year.

Öksüz disclosed that Turkey rose to the fifth rank in world textile exports in 2020, and its market share continues to increase in the European Union countries. The industry recorded significant increases of up to 60 percent in all country groups, especially in the American countries, other European countries and Former Eastern Bloc Countries, besides the EU.

Global sports apparel design and manufacturing company, Sport Casual International (SCI), has unveiled a new performance fitness fabric called SCI FIT 1.

A scientific fabric breakthrough, SCI FIT1 eliminates the Grin-Through Effect: the fabric stretching, material erosion (almost to see-through transparency) and color degradation that commonly occur in today’s most popular sports and workout apparel.

With its uniquely luxurious feel, and a firm, customized fit, SCI’s new fabric features No “grin through, becoming see-through for the wearer, even in lighter color fabrics, four-way stretch compression interlock, a dense, 240-gram packed knit construction with more ‘picks and ends,’ 30 per cent cotton, 70 per cent spandex blend, moisture-wicking, lush texture and a peached” finish

For over 25 years, SCI has provided end-to-end design and supply chain management solutions for sports performance and active lifestyle apparel for brands, retailers and organizations.

Besides impacting global ecosystems, climate change also compounds problems for small farmers across the world. To help them, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) teamed up with Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) aiming to improve their working and living conditions, and protect the environment. The mandate to assess results of this study was given to Syspons, an independent consulting firm. The results confirm CmiA’s ability to improve the lives of small farmers and their families, particularly through various training programs.

Elevating farmer’s lifestyles

The training programs conducted by Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) are designed to elevate the standard of lives of participating cotton farmers. They help farmers increase their cotton yield besides causing positive cultural shifts in the village communities. The organization’s verification process also improves the working conditions and management abilities of cotton companies. This enables companies to tackle other issues like children’s rights, gender equality, and workplace safety.

Favorable market conditions enable CmiA’s verification process to achieve 100 per cent accuracy. The industry’s structure, combined with a stable cotton price set at the national level, assures farmers of regular income and future stability. Farmers also benefit from CmiA’s steady knowledge transfers and skill development program. This raises their productivity, improves income security and income levels.

A threat to profitability

Climate change proves a major challenge for Africa’s small farmers as it faces erratic monsoon. It leads to a decline in farm lands and encourages farmers to decrease biodiversity and increase pest infestations.

Their profitability also declines. Till date, AbTF has not been able to fully realize CmiA’s full potential in Zambia. However, the organization has been able to establish training mechanisms to reduce the harmful effects caused by the unfavorable external factors, thereby slowing further deterioration. Cotton made in Africa aims to improve the living conditions of farmers and strengthen their resilience to external factors through its training program Its trade partner Aid by Trade Foundation aims boost investments in climate-smart agricultural practices in order to secure finances for such forward-looking projects, says Tina Stridde, Managing Director.

Impact verification

CmiA’s study highlights the key insights of AbTF on ground situation. Conducted between October 2019 and June 2021 by Syspons, a well-regarded consulting company, the study verifies the effects of the CmiA’s training program on farmers’ living conditions. It presents two comprehensive case studies conducted in Zambia and Côte d’Ivoire. The case studies include household surveys of cotton farmers, focus-group discussions with village communities, and qualitative interviews with industry experts. They also analyze all relevant documents and data, including the cotton associations’ self-assessments and verification reports, previously conducted sample-based surveys, and a baseline study from 2010.

Founded by Dr Michael Otto in 2005, The Cotton made in Africa initiative was established as an internationally recognized standard for sustainably produced cotton from Africa by the Hamburg-based Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF). The initiative connects African small-scale farmers with trading companies and fashion brands throughout the global textile value chain. It aims to help around one million cotton farmers and their families in Sub-Saharan Africa become self-reliant besides protecting the environment. The program includes training facilities for farmers and better working conditions, and facilities to educate their children. Female small-scale farmers are encouraged to pursue professional and social independence.

Levi Strauss & Coexpects holiday-quarter net revenue growth of 21 per cent from a year earlier, while analysts were expecting growth of 22 per cent.

Levi also expects fourth-quarter earnings per share to be between 38 cents and 40 cents per share, compared with analysts average expectation of 40 cents per share.

Boosted by an uptick in demand for jeans from people refreshing their wardrobes as they returned to normal social life following easing pandemic restrictions, the company beat third-quarter revenue and profit estimates,

Net revenue for the company rose to $1.50 billion from $1.06 billion in the third quarter ended August 29. Analysts on average had expected $1.48 billion, according to IBES data from Refinitiv.

The company’s shares rose by 2 per cent in extended trading after its board approved a $200 million share repurchase plan. The company has a market capitalization of $49.49 billion, according to Refinitiv data.

Levi also benefited from a reopening of the economy in its European markets and investments in its direct-to-consumer business.

Analysts expect Levi to face less supply pressure than peers due to its minimal reliance on Vietnam, an apparel manufacturing hub that has seen several factories close due to COVID-19 outbreaks and lower usage of the congested West Coast port.