Once high-flying Hong Kong fashion retailer before it tumbled into years of losses, Esprit Holdings is planning a comeback in Asia, turning away from a fast-fashion strategy where it failed to compete with brands such as Zara and H&M.

The company is now focusing on better-quality clothing that is more expensive than fast fashion apparel but more sustainable, says William Pak, CEO. It also set up uplo 56 stores in Asia in early 2020 amid coronavirus-induced lockdowns.

A pop-up store opened in Seoul in April, and a flagship outlet in Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay shopping centre is set to open next month.

While the focus will remain on e-commerce, the company wants to have at least one signature store in vital Asian markets where it also has an online presence. 

It has launched online platforms in South Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan and the Philippines, and plans to expand into mainland China, Singapore and Thailand by the end of the year.

Dr Gohar Ejaz, Patron in Chief, All Pakistan Textile Mills Association  (APTMA) indicated,  the Pakistan Textile Industry is expecting a notable increase in exports during FY23 with a growth rate above 20 per cent given that the Government continues with the Policy of ‘Regionally Competitive Energy Tariffs’ for exports.

Textile Industry has posted record exports of $4 billion in FY22 with its expansion and investment plans of about $5 billion under LTFF and TERF schemes – YOY growth of 25 percent up till June 30, 2022.

 Earlier, APTMA stated that the growth was only possible due to the supply of energy at regionally competitive tariffs. Currently, textile is the only sector that continues to grow and bring foreign exchange to the country, gearing up to close at $20 billion in June 2022 compared to $15.4 billion in June 2021.

In addition, Pakistan Textile Industry plans to import 6 million bales of cotton this year from the US and Brazil. Pakistan’s cotton imports are on the rise again. After importing just 3.1 million bales of 170 kg during the first nine months, over 1.1 million bales made their way through ports of entry during April and May 2022.

In April, APTMA reported that the overall cotton area in this decade has declined by 33 per cent from 2.9 million hectare to 1.9 million hectare. Almost 1.5 million farmers grow cotton out of which 75 per cent is grown in Punjab while the rest is grown in Sindh, while the cotton area in Punjab has decreased by 50 per cent from 2.53 million hectare(2012) to 1.28 million hectare (2022).

Knitted and non-knitted apparel and clothing accessories (HS code 61 and 62) exports by Cambodia surged by 39.36 per cent to $4,510.104 million during January-June 2022, shows trade e data released by Cambodian General Department of Customs and Excise

The exports of Cambodia’s knitted apparel and clothing accessories (HS code 61) increased by 39.3 per cent to $3,157 million during the first half of this year, while the export of non-knitted apparel and clothing (HS Code 62) surged by 39.4 per cent to $1,352.481 million. The export of other made ups textile articles (HS code 63) increased by 0.7 per cent to $95.860 million in January-June 2022 compared to $95.147 million in the first half of last year.

In June 2022, Cambodia’s export of knitted and non-knitted apparel and clothing accessories increased by 40.51 per cent to $867.985 million, as against exports of $617.92 million in June 2021. Exports of knitted apparel and clothing accessories rose 35.7 per cent to $646.458 million during the month, while the export of non-knitted apparel and clothing increased 56.7 per cent to $221.527 million. 

The next edition of Texworld Evolution Paris is set to be held from February 6 to 8, 2023.  The recent July edition registered a 29 per cent increase in visitors.  In all, around 3,700 buyers attended the event along with textile and finished product manufacturers selected by the Messe Frankfurt France team. 

The event was held in July for the first time with an aim to offer a sourcing calendar adapted to the fashion market. Over three days, around 3,700 professional buyers met 400 exhibitors gathered in Hall 4 of the Parc des Expositions de Paris - Le Bourget. 

The proportion of foreign buyers increased to 83 per cent, compared to 65 per cent in February. International buyers, particularly from Europe, attended the event alongwith e French, Spanish, English and Italian professionals, followed by Turkish buyers, Germans, Dutch and Americans.

The latest edition shows manufacturers have been able to adapt themselves to buyers' expectations, says Frédéric Bougeard, President, Messe Frankfurt France. It also confirms that the show is slowing returning to its original format and will be able to organize physical editions in February and July 2023.

Held from July 20-21, this edition of Kingpins New York focused on circularity. It showcased collections of various noted companies including Artistic Milliner who presented its latest collection Recircular at the trade fair. The collection is made from ultra-premium blend of fibers that are sustainably produced.

Bossa’s showcased new GRS certified recycled linen blended item called Hague Savetrue. The garment offers the authentic look of comfort stretch denim and boasts 92 percent water savings compared to traditional dyeing methods.

Cone Denim displayed its Nothing Goes to Waste fabric collection that includes Black Jack and Barstow—two fabrics that according to Pierette Scavuzzo, Design Director, Cone Denim,  best represents the mill’s approach to circularity.

Barstow showcased 100 percent GRS certified recycled fibers, a blend of pre-consumer recycled cotton and post-consumer recycled polyester. Artistic Fabric Mills’ (AFM) presented fabrics containing  50-100 per cent PIW cotton, produced by its own internal industrial waste according to Textile Exchange guidelines, are among the mill’s most circular offerings.

The European Union has launched the Renewable Carbon Initiative to revise a wide range of policies in the Green Deal to boost climate neutrality and create a sustainable economy by 2050. The RCI has set up a policy working group under the leadership of nova-Institute and has over 40 companies as members who actively work towards reshaping the entire required processes to meet the climate challenge. The initiative includes decarbonization in the energy sector alongwith making significant changes in the feedstock base of the material industries. 

The initiative focuses on the on-going revision of the Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive that aims to increase the scope for sustainable plastic packaging. RCI urges for the inclusion of bio-based and CO2-based content in addition to recycled content. The policy framework on bio-based, biodegradable and compostable plastics under the Circular Economy Package is expected to be published in November 2022 and will support plastics for true environmental benefits.

Pakistan’s textile group exports grew 25.53 per cent in the last financial year 2021-22 to $19.329 billion from $15.399 billion during 2020-21, according to the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS). During July-June, 2021-2022, Pakistan’s total exports grew by 25.64 per cent to  $31.792 billion (provisional) against $25.304 billion during the corresponding period of last year showing an increase of 25.64 percent.

In June, textile group exports increased by 3.93 per cent M-o-M to $1.706 billion compared to $1.641 billion in May 2022. On a Y-o-Y basis, textile exports grew by 2.86 per cent to $1.706 billion in June 2022 compared to $1.658 million in June 2021. Exports of raw cotton grew by 714.94 per cent growth during July-June 2021-22 and remained at $6.577 million compared to $0.807 million during the same period of last year. Cotton yarn exports grew by 18.67 per cent growth to $1.206 billion compared to $1.016 billion during the same period of last year.

Fashion for Good plans to launch its textile waste study on July 27 in collaboration with Apparel Export Promotion Council in Gurgaon. 

Titled, Sorting for Circularity India Project', the study brings together industry players like adidas, Levi Strauss & Co, PVH Corp, TESCO, Arvind Ltd, Birla Cellulose, Welspun Group, and Laudes Foundation. It was launched in November 2021 with an aim to build infrastructure towards achieving great circularity in India.

Over the last 9 months, Fashion for Good conducted an extensive research to understand the textile waste landscape in India as part of the project. The study was conducted in consortium with Sattva Consulting, Saahas Zero Waste, and Reverse Resources.

Optimism thrives in the global fashion industry with 77 per cent respondents to the 9th annual Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study expecting brighter prospects for the industry over the next five years.  Conducted by, The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) the study surveyed over 30 leading fashion brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers, including some of the biggest names in the US. It was done in conjunction with Sheng Lu, Associate Professor, University of Delaware Department of Fashion & Apparel Studies. 

Brands to increase sourcing and hiring 

The survey indicates respondents’ outlook on future business prospects, sourcing utilization of Free Trade Agreements and preference programs, and policies. It shows, nearly 97 per cent respondents plan to hire more people over the next five years. Over 90 per cent also plan to increase their sourcing value or volume in 2022. 

Diversifying away from China

Most respondents expressed concerns over rising sourcing and production costs with all of them expecting their sourcing costs to increase in 2022. To handle supply chain disruptions, US fashion companies continue to adopt a more diverse sourcing base. They continue to move sourcing away from China to reduce their dependence on the country.  Around 30 per cent reported sourcing less than 10 per cent of their apparel products from China this year. Over 50 per cent increased sourcing from Vietnam in 2022. 

Asia continues to remain the dominant sourcing base for brands for the last nine years, as per the survey. The continent houses 10 most-utilized apparel sourcing destinations including: China (91 per cent), Vietnam (88 per cent), Bangladesh (84 per cent), and India (72 per cent). 

Rise in sourcing from CAFTA-DR

However, apparel sourcing from the Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) region is also on the rise with 60 per cent respondents planning to increase sourcing from the region over the next two years. 

US fashion companies are strongly advocating for the renewal of African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) for another 10 years. However, no respondent plans to move sourcing orders from Ethiopia to another AGOA beneficiary country.

Creating economic opportunities

Most respondents are from companies having headquarters or major management offices in the US. Around 75 per cent respondents also have headquarters or major management offices outside the US, including China, Asia other than China, Europe, Eastern and Central America, and Mexico, among others. Besides, selling products in the US, over 50 per cent also sell products in Canada, Western Europe, Mexico, and Asia. 

Dedicated to fashion made possible by global trade, USFIA represents textile and apparel brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers based in the US and doing business globally.  The brands and retailers aim to eliminate tariff and non-tariff barriers impeding the industry’s ability to trade freely and create economic opportunities in the US and abroad.

A leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, Lenzing Group has collaborated with Red Points, a global leader in online IP infringement detection and removal, to strengthen Lenzing’s existing brand protection efforts globally and enable round-the-clock brand monitoring services. 

Red Points provides the ideal technology solution to help Lenzing monitor and remove unauthorized use of its trademarks and counterfeits online. The technology works by using Artificial Intelligence (AI) to automatically detect intellectual property infringements of Lenzing’ trademarks with high accuracy and efficiency.

Brand protection is just one of Lenzing’s ongoing proactive measures aimed at enhancing transparency in the supply chain and protecting the interest of Lenzing’s partners by ensuring they are purchasing genuine Lenzing fibers which meet their high standards.

In 2018, Lenzing launched the Lenzing E-Branding Service which allows Lenzing’s customers, retailers and brand partners to effectively use trademarks in their marketing materials. The platform has been welcomed by partners globally as it continues to deliver value to the fashion, textile and nonwoven sectors by facilitating the traceability of Lenzing’s fibers and enabling customers to promote them effectively.