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The Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles association (SMART) is gathering from March 1 to 4 at Arizona, US, to spread awareness about the benefits of clothing and textile recycling. Each year more than 13 million tons of recyclable clothing and textiles are dumped into America’s landfills while only 15.3 per cent is reused or recycled.
SMART is an association for-profit clothing and textile recyclers. It drives the clothing and textile recycling industry. Its member companies work every day to divert used clothing and household textiles out of municipal landfills and into re-use and recycling programs. More than 95 per cent of all clothing and textiles can be re-used or recycled. As long as an item is odor-free and dry, even if it is stained or torn, there is use for it in the world of textile recycling.
This year’s conference focuses on educating executives from SMART’s member companies on how to work with local governments to successfully regulate clothing collection bins in their community. SMART is the leading voice of the clothing recycling industry. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, recycling textiles has a greater impact on reducing greenhouse gases than recycling other household materials.
Apparel makers in Bangladesh have expressed reservations about incorporating key information, especially on factory inspection and trader profiles, in the proposed database. They fear their business secrets may leak out. Instead, they want to make public the information on some selective areas in consultation with apparel sector stakeholders and allow limited access to the database.
Leaders of the country’s apparel sector raised their objection to the idea of making their crucial business information publicly accessible in meetings with foreign buyers and government officials on different occasions. They say if the inspection report of a factory was made public, it may damage the business of a factory, because it might drive away its buyers. They suggest the factory should be given a remediation period and in the event of its failure to attain the required level of improvement within the time frame the inspection report could be made public.
Experts have also backed apparel makers’ views about inclusion of the core business information and inspection reports in the database. They, however, feel all trade union-related information should be made public through inclusion in the database. They also suggested government monitoring of the whole process centrally.
US the world's third-largest supplier of yarns after China and India is consolidating its position further in the global market. What's helping the industry are factors like falling energy costs, easy access and proximity to ports, high-quality raw cotton and local subsidies on production. In fact, these factors are luring several domestic as well as Chinese and Indian investors to the US spinning and weaving sector.
Consumption of products manufactured in the US has been increasing and domestic 
spinners are taking advantage of regional trade pacts that offer preferential duty treatment on finished products made with US materials. For instance, companies like Gulf Coast Spinning is investing $130 million in a facility in Louisiana and casual clothing and underwear maker Gildan Activewear has already announced its plans of ramping up its yarn-spinning facilities in the US over the next two years. China's Keer Group plans to invest $218million in setting up its first textile plant in South Carolina to make industrial cotton yarn. And Indian textile major Shrivallabh Pittie Group is investing $70 million to build its first US facility in Georgia to manufacture carded cotton yarn.
Meanwhile, domestic players are chalking out plans to offer US-made products to customers. For example, US manufacturer Buhler Quality Yarns has chosen to invest its cash fully in domestic market instead of sourcing from Asia. The company currently operates around 32,000 spindles in the US. North Carolina-based Burlington Industries is another company with bulk of its manufacturing facility in the US. It has two facilities in China, three in Mexico and seven in the US. Most of the companies believe that increasing manufacturing base in the US is inspired by the fact that the economy needs a boost and also players can be sure of the product quality.
However, experts believe even as the US yarn market continues to take shape, in the coming years, emerging economies of Asia will showcase a better potential. The reason being as their economies grow their consumption of cotton will also increase, while for America to become a manufacturing hub, will take many more years.
Gildan.com
The 8th Interfilière Hong Kong will be held in from April 1 to 2, 2014. The trade show will focus on sustainability, trends, networking and innovation and collaborations among fashion and industry experts leading the world intimate apparel market. A wide array of events and projects including the eco-system showcase, Sustainable Development Conference, Creative Lab, Trend Forum, Seminar Program, Personal Shopper, Selection Guide is planned.
Leading manufacturers and specialists demonstrating eco-responsible initiatives in the market will speak about their latest research and developments. An educational and explanatory overview on ecological manufacturing, green textile certifications, sustainable marketing and much more will be delivered through the seminar program.
Finished prototypes will be showcased at the Creative Lab, a closed showroom to illustrate the longings of the New Woman, the Instagram Woman. Supervised by Concepts Paris, this project will give designers and buyers a fresh and forward-looking perspective on the international lingerie consumer. Top-class manufacturers from the Hong Kong Intimate Apparel Industries’ Association will create prototypes using the latest innovations and techniques ranging from new gluing methods, laser technology, 3D printing and more.
Evolution 23, a 60-page trend guide book containing the essence and details of the forum, will be released at Interfilière Hong Kong. Evolution is a unique and fine-tuned trend resource developed for the intimate apparel market. Interfilière Hong Kong has been co-organized with the French Knitwear and Lingerie Federation.
www.interfiliere.com/hongkong/
The GSP Plus facility has helped boost Pakistan’s textile export orders by 30 per cent. An increase in textile orders to Pakistan suggests that European buyers want to take advantage of the GSP plus facility to Pakistan. Accordingly, Pakistan has revised its growth rate from 3.6 per cent to 5.1 per cent for 2013-14. It hopes to raise textile exports from $13 billion to $26 billion per annum in the next five years. The country will invest an estimated $5 billion in weaving and processing textile projects in the proposed textile integrated parks.
So beneficial has been the effect of the GSP plus status that it may shift the textile business from Vietnam to Pakistan in the years ahead. Germany in particular wants more cooperation with Pakistan and feels this can be ensured by removing impediments in export credit guarantees, by improvement in the security situation, vocational training for skill enhancement, energy supplies and implementation of social compliances by Pakistan.
Pakistan in turn hopes German brands like Puma, Adidas, Marc O’Polo, Hugo Boss, and Tom Tailor see Pakistan as a sourcing destination. It also seeks help for ventures under buy back arrangements of semi manufactured technical textiles with Germany.
Guinness Peat Group has released its preliminary financial results for the year ended December 31, 2013, incorporating the preliminary results for Coats, world’s leading industrial thread and consumer textile crafts business. Coats reported robust revenue growth at $1,704 million dollars, up 5 per cent like-to-like for both its divisions.
Operating profits are up 12 percent on like-to-like basis before exceptional items. Commenting on Coats’ full year 2013 results Paul Forman, Group Chief Executive, Coats plc said, “I am pleased to report that despite muted market conditions, Coats' results for the year showed growth in sales and profit across both divisions. This illustrates the underlying resilience of our core markets and our strong global market positions.”
With a rich heritage dating back to the 1750s, Coats is present in more than 70 countries, employing over 20,000 people across six continents. Revenues in 2013 were 1.7 billion dollars (over Rs 10,530 crores). Coats’ offers value added products and services to the apparel and footwear industries, developing products in new areas such as tracer threads, aramids and fibre optics.
www.coats.com
A team of scientists has given cotton and polyester fabrics a coating that repels almost any type of substance. SLIPS (Slippery Liquid-Infused Porous Surfaces) is a slick coating that repels water, oil, tomato juice, eggs, wax, and blood, among other substances.
The obvious benefit of SLIPS technology is preventing stains in everyday clothing. Cotton and polyester fabrics given the coating retain exceptional protective properties even after rubbing, twisting, or washing. The coating can be applied to specialty textiles exposed to extreme environments. A broad range of applications of this latest modification include tactical suits for military and firefighters, medical gowns and lab coats, and specialty garments for construction and manufacturing. Further, certain properties such as anti-icing would provide an advantage in large awnings, tents, and open-air buildings such as sports stadiums.
The inspiration for the coating was the carnivorous pitcher plant. The plant utilizes a mixture of fluids and a mechanical trap to ensnare insects. By replicating these defense mechanisms, scientists were able to develop a porous material which could hold the water in the same way a sponge holds water.
A coat of SLIPS has been found to improve the efficiency of various appliances, such as refrigerators, by preventing continual defrosting in the coils, ultimately reducing costs, freezer burns, and spoilt produce.
With a sudden surge in import of cotton in the last two months, Pakistan is expected to import a total of 2.5 million bales during the ongoing fiscal 2013-14. Pakistan has imported approximately 1.7 million bales so far during this fiscal year. Traders are importing a significant amount of cotton from India as this saves freight cost and transportation time. So far, Pakistan has imported approximately 1.2 million bales from India.
In the beginning of the year, imports were slow because of two reasons. Spinning mill owners were waiting for local cotton to arrive in the markets. Secondly, import cost was higher because of the continuous appreciation in dollar value against rupee at that time.
Now, the situation has changed. The rupee has considerably recovered its value against the dollar during December and January. Secondly, ginners in Pakistan have a small quantity of high quality cotton in stock. The low availability of high quality cotton always forces traders to increase imports. Pakistan imports high quality cotton from India, US, Argentine and Central Asia every year. However, imports from India may slow down after India raised the price of cotton higher than other exporting countries.
Conventional textile production is one of the most polluting industries on the planet. It's estimated that the textile industry is responsible for as much as 20 per cent of land and river pollution. Finding ways to curb environmental pollution caused by textile production starts with producing fabrics that don't require toxins and large amounts of water, and which minimize harm to the ecology.
Organic cotton is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Textiles made of organic cotton require less water to manufacture than conventional cotton textiles and are often more comfortable. Silk is produced by moths, and conventional methods destroy the moth and cocoon in the process. Sustainable products, such as ahimsa silk, use methods that don’t kill the moth pupa. Eco-friendly silk is produced primarily in India, North Asia and Africa. This lacks the harsh dyes that are common in conventional silk production. There are a variety of types of sustainable silk, each with their own unique colors and characteristics. The most common is produced by a creamy white-colored silk worm that is found on the mulberry tree in India.
Bamboo is considered a sustainable source for textiles. It is an extremely fast growing plant that doesn’t need to be replanted each year, doesn’t require massive amounts of pesticides and keeps the air clean.
Leading apparel retailers like Adidas, Marks and Spencer, Patagonia and Phillips-Van Heusen have taken steps against cotton from Uzbekistan entering their supply chain to protest against forced labour practices in the country. A survey named ‘Cotton Sourcing Snapshot: A Survey of Corporate Practices to End Forced Labor’, of 49 apparel and home goods firms released by the Responsible Sourcing Network (RSN) looked at what the companies are doing to identify risks, establish policies, implement procedures, and disclose practices to eliminate and prevent incidents of forced labour in cotton harvesting. Evaluations covered 11 indicators across policy, public disclosure, engagement, and implementation and auditing.
While only five companies scored over 50 points, 19 scored under 25 points, and two companies scored zero. Among those with the lowest rankings were Costco, Forever 21 and Sears, with All Saints and Urban Outfitters coming last according to the report.
The report found that only 2 per cent of companies surveyed fully disclose progress and/or challenges with their strategies on Uzbek cotton, and only 6 per cent have fully implemented a traceability or spinner verification program.
Of those that do implement best practices, 18.5 per cent are involved in spinner efforts individually or through another initiative; 16 per cent provide training and require their suppliers/spinners to abide by their policies; an additional 8 per cent also include this in their supplier contracts; and 12 per cent have independent third-party audits of their spinners/mills.
www.sourcingnetwork.org
