WRAP, the UK environmental charity, is urging the government to adopt extended producer responsibility (EPR) for the country’s fashion and textiles sector.

A series of reports have been published outlining policy options and cost-benefit analyses for such a scheme, and delivered evidence that it believes will enable informed decision-making regarding the development of a sustainable, circular sector. The reports recommend eco-design criteria, restrictions on landfill and incineration, grants and loans to enhance recycling capacity, and an increase in bring banks and kerbside collections.

The Textile Policy Options report sets out “extensive” options for cutting waste and the carbon impact of a sector that accounts for between 8-10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.

The report predicts that the volume of new products consumed in the UK could grow to 2.37 million tonnes by 2030, up from 1.66 million tonnes in 2018. It recommends a combination of grants, EPR, and separate collections supported by eco-design and eco-labelling.

The accompanying Cost Benefit Analysis report evaluates the environmental, social, and financial impacts of the suggested policy options. The report suggests that an EPR will play a vital role in shifting to a circular economy and that a simple fee modulation will be required to disincentivise the production of problematic textiles.

WRAP is recommending that the government introduce an EPR for the UK’s fashion and textiles industry, with supporting measures that include setting standards for eco-design to ensure that products last longer and are made to be recycled.

Tiruppur, India's hub for knitwear exports, is projected to experience a 4% decrease in dollar terms for FY23. Despite this decline, exports may see a marginal increase in rupee terms. This follows the region's record-breaking year for annual exports in FY22.

Industry analysts are cautiously optimistic about the growth outlook for FY24. They expect gradual improvements in orders from Q1 of FY24, although the recovery is dependent on global macroeconomic factors.

For the period of April 2022-February 2023, knitwear exports from Tiruppur totaled around $3.95 billion, while all India knitwear exports amounted to $7.2 billion (compared to $8.17 billion in FY22). The Tiruppur Exporters Association estimates that for FY23, total knitwear exports from Tiruppur will be $4.31 billion, a decrease of 4.22% from FY22. However, in rupee terms, there will be a marginal increase of 3.12% to 34,570 crore from ₹33,525 crore in FY22.

Knitwear exporters attribute the decline in exports to a drop in orders from key markets such as Europe and the U.S. due to the Russia-Ukraine conflict. Despite a slight recovery in the last few months, exports remain lower than in previous years.

Online retailers are finding it increasingly difficult to sustain free shipping as costs continue to rise, and the e-commerce industry faces a possible recession.

Retailers are taking measures such as adding fees for faster service, raising minimum purchase requirements, and shifting more costs to consumers. Product inflation and soaring shipping costs are making the service unsustainable as the industry rethinks the financial cost of habituating shoppers to free shipping.

Retailers' top priority is lowering shipping costs, with speed a close second. Shipping cost reduction goals of up to 25% have been set by some retailers. Amazon has recently raised the annual Prime subscription price by $20 to $139 and is now offering "free" same-day shipping for Prime members in some U.S. cities with strings attached, meaning that the service is free only on orders of at least $25 and costs $2.99 when orders fall below that.

As cost pressures continue to rise, free, fast shipping is fading, with many retailers dropping free shipping altogether or taking product prices up again.

Levi Strauss & Co. is making efforts to enhance its customer experience by investing in emerging technology. The company is exploring ways to utilize AI-generated models to supplement human models in its product line.

To this end, the company has partnered with a digital fashion studio that creates hyperrealistic models of every body type, age, size, and skin tone. The partnership aims to provide a more inclusive, personal, and sustainable shopping experience for customers. While human models will continue to be an essential part of Levi Strauss & Co.'s product line, the AI-generated models will enable the company to diversify its models further, creating a more diverse and inclusive customer experience.

The company is excited about the potential capabilities that AI-generated models could offer for the customer experience, and Levi Strauss & Co. believes that this technology could help unlock a future where customers can see products on more models that look like themselves, adding value for both customers and the business.

A new report released earlier this week by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has issued a dire warning about the state of global greenhouse gas emissions.

The Climate Change 2023 Synthesis Report, the final installment of the IPCC's sixth Assessment Report, has called for immediate action to control rising emissions, stating that the world must cut emissions by almost half by 2030 to limit the effects of global warming.

The report has highlighted that the global fashion industry, which generates over $2.5 trillion in revenue and employs more than seven million people, is one of the biggest contributors to carbon emissions, accounting for 10% of the total.

Additionally, the industry produces almost 20% of wastewater and consumes more energy than the aviation and shipping industries combined.

The report cites "A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future" by the Ellen McArthur Foundation and the Circular Fibres Initiative, which states that the current linear approach to the textile system results in the extraction of large amounts of non-renewable resources to produce clothing that is often used for a short time before being discarded. More than $500 billion is lost every year due to underutilization of clothing and the lack of recycling.

To combat these issues, the fashion industry's stakeholders must adopt practices that significantly reduce carbon emissions. This includes utilizing sustainable materials, implementing circular business models, and encouraging consumers to engage in eco-friendly behaviors such as clothing rental and upcycling.

The industry's response to this crisis will be crucial in determining the future of our planet.

The Europe Textile Chemicals market is expected to experience steady growth in the coming years, with a projected valuation of US$ 857.7 million by the end of 2027. This growth is attributed to a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.2% during the forecast period of 2019-2027, as per Transparency Market Research.

Textile chemicals are used in various stages of textile production, from fiber production to dyeing and finishing. Factors driving the growth of the market include increasing demand for textile products, technological advancements in textile production processes, and the emergence of eco-friendly and sustainable textile chemicals.

The market is highly competitive, with several large players dominating the industry. The market is expected to experience steady growth in the coming years, driven by increasing demand for textile products and advancements in textile production processes.

Buyers from around the world place big orders at an event organized by the Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council of India (Texprocil).

The event held in Australia had very encouraging response from the buyers from including Australia, Turkey, Malaysia, Poland, Kenya, Portugal, Russia, Mexico, Israel, Guatemala, Chile, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka, seek to shift their sourcing away from China due to recent supply chain disruptions and a lack of trust.

The buyers at the event were particularly keen on using the free trade agreement signed between India and Australia to increase their sourcing from India. They were also seeking out Indian suppliers of recycled and organic cotton products.

Over 90 buyers attended the event, which showcased yarns, fabrics, and home textiles made from fibers such as cotton, polyester, and viscose. Around 50 Indian suppliers of cotton textiles and their blends were present to attract buyers, and the Council also held talks with a delegation from Bangladesh to explore opportunities for collaboration in the textile industry.

The Texprocil expressed optimism that such events would lead to increased collaboration between Indian textile suppliers and buyers from around the world, to their mutual benefit.

Adidas and Beyoncé have ended their collaboration in apparel and footwear, as reported by The Hollywood Reporter.

The reason for the split was cited as "major creative differences" between the parties. Beyoncé plans to take back control of her brand and pursue her own creative path.

Beyoncé's Ivy Park streetwear collaboration with Adidas, launched in 2018, suffered a significant drop in sales in 2022. Despite the company projecting $250 million in sales, it only made $40 million, a decline of 50%. In contrast, Ivy Park sales were $93 million in 2021. Beyoncé had creative control over the partnership and received approximately $20 million annually for it. The contract was set to expire in 2023.

Beyoncé debuted her Ivy Park clothing line in 2016 and acquired full ownership in 2018. In 2019, she partnered with Adidas on a gender-neutral Ivy Park clothing line, which included the first Ivy Park footwear release, as well as athletic wear.

Adidas released another collection, "Ivytopia," in July, which aimed to represent the emergence from isolation due to the pandemic. The collection featured inclusive and gender-neutral sizing in fashion styles, performance gear, shoes, and accessories. The prices ranged from $30 to $200, and it included a revamped version of Adidas' iconic Stan Smith sneaker. However, according to The Wall Street Journal, about half of the produced Ivy Park merchandise went unsold.

In January, Beyoncé previewed her latest Adidas x Ivy Park collaboration, Park Trail, in Dubai.

A coalition named "Shut Down SHEIN" is running a campaign to raise awareness of Shein's alleged human rights abuses and questionable business practices.

Shein is a fast-fashion company based in China, claimed to have with links to TikTok and the Chinese Communist Party. The campaign's objective is to inform U.S. government officials and the American public about the alleged ways in which Shein is committing human rights abuses and evading tariffs worth billions of dollars by exploiting import laws.

Shein has been accused of using cotton picked by slaves in Xinjiang, violating the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) and federal law. Additionally, the company is accused of taking advantage of a tariff loophole, allowing it to sell products below market value and evade U.S. tariffs.

Manipulating, evading import duties

Shein 's policies consider users as importers of record, which means every user is an individual importer. Orders under $800 do not trigger reporting requirements to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, enabling Shein to avoid tariffs and transfer the legal responsibility to the U.S. consumer to prove that the products are not produced using slave labor. The coalition believes that Shein is breaching U.S. and international law and using American consumers as accomplices.

Shut Down SHEIN aims to ensure a level playing field for all companies doing business in America, compliance with federal and international law, and protect American consumers. Chapin Fay, Shut Down SHEIN Executive Director, stated that the campaign's focus is on anti-competitive business practices and treating workers with respect.

The campaign's launch coincides with the U.S. government's renewed scrutiny of Shein 's business ally TikTok. As Shein intends to go public and be listed on a U.S. stock exchange in the next year.

Retail federation of South Africa protests duty evasion

In another event, South Africa's Department of Trade, Industry and Competition has started investigating Chinese fast-fashion retailer Shein for allegedly evading import duties. The investigation follows complaints lodged by trade unions National Clothing Retail Federation of South Africa and the Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers Union, alleging that Shein did not pay import duties on orders made by its South African customers.

The Yarn Expo Spring 2023 trade fair is set to take place from March 28-30, 2023 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, marking the first in-person trading event for international yarn and fibre suppliers since China reopened its borders earlier this year.

The event will span an impressive 27,000 square metres, with major zones dedicated to showcasing fancy yarn, cashmere yarn, wool yarn, linen yarn, cotton yarn, chemical fibre, and overseas yarn.

Organiser Messe Frankfurt has confirmed that nearly 450 exhibitors from 10 countries and regions will participate in the fair, including Cotton Council International (CCI) from the US. The event aims to attract buyers from China and beyond and will feature several key Chinese exhibitors, including Sateri, Jiangsu Yueda Cotton Spinning, China Petrochemical Corporation, and Tongkun Group.

The Yarn Expo Spring trade fair will also feature a fringe programme that will cover the latest industry trends and innovations. The New Fibre New World – Textile Materials Innovation section will provide insights on the progress of intelligent textiles, new fibre development trends, and the application of zero-carbon fibres.

The China Fibre Fashion Trends Display Zone, organised by the China Chemical Fiber Industry Association, will showcase samples of around 30 different types of fibres from 32 pre-selected companies, highlighting apparel trends at their source.

The three-day event will feature several fashion shows, including the China Fibres Fashion Trends Show 2023/2024 and the Restart and Remodelling Denim Fashion Show. Yarn Expo Spring will be held alongside four other concurrent fairs, including Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, CHIC, and PH Value.

Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, will organise the Yarn Expo Spring 2023 trade fair.