European Union’s forthcoming Textiles Strategy should be based on Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), says as a new study by Eunomia for Changing Markets Foundation and the European Environmental Bureau, published in March. The latest report says, inclusion of EPR in the EU textiles strategy would enable the industry to operationalize the penalty paid by a polluter.

Covering products entire lifecycle costs

The report highlights, textile consumption in Europe had the fourth-highest impact on the environment and climate change in 2020 as 6.6 million tons of clothing, household textiles and footwear were consumed during the year. The study urges garment producers to bear the financial costs associated with end-of-life management of textiles they sell. It asserts, those who consume more textiles should pay more penalties. Over-consumption is ‘the root’ of challenges faced by the textile industry and only EPR can help tackle this, the report adds.

EPR can improve textiles design by varying EPR fee levels according to relevant criteria, says the report. The incentives can be based on the size of fees relative to the sales price of textile item. The industry should also ensure full coverage of end-of-life costs, adds the report. This would help increase the relative size of fees, and increase modulation’s influence on design choices, the report notes. However, a few textile items will continue to remain uninfluenced by such incentives.’

The industry needs to introduce several minimum eco-design requirements alongside EPR besides banning use of substances of very high concern (SVHCs) in textile products. This would help make EPR schemes more effective and address complex issues, says the Eunomia report.

Maximizing EPR potential

The Eunomia report recommends certain actions to help EU maximize EPR’s effectiveness and harmonize specific aspects and requirements for its performance. The actions recommended include: setting performance targets for the collection and management of used and waste textiles, including repair, collection, preparation for reuse, and recycling; establishment of an EU-level definition for obligated producers; establishment of an EU-level classification for when textiles become waste; establishment of EU-level classifications for granularity of fee structure and associated reporting obligations; and establishment of EU-level criteria for eco-modulation and associated reporting obligations.

The report further outlines measures including setting up a target for including recycled content in textiles, reduction in VAT on repair, curbing the release of microplastics in the air, and ensuring a smooth material flow by establishing a data reporting and verification throughout the value chain. These can change the textile circularity scenario in Europe, adds the report

Jürgen Müller, Head-Patterns, Mayer & Cie, says, warm functional underwear is a must for athletes, coaches and spectators These products are mostly knitted on circular knitting machines. High-tech sports and thermal underwear produced in Mayer & Cie. machines keep users warm and provide comfort at the same time.

Extra warm thermal underwear produced from single jersey, plush and fine rib all deliver warmth and comfort. Made of thicker yarns such as microfibres of between 150/1 and 167/1 dtex, all in E28 gauge, the inside of the single jersey fabric is napped for a fleece effect. Jürgen Müller recommends MV 4 3.2. II and the S4-3.2 circular knitting machines for this purpose. In addition, Relanit machines suitable for the manufacture of thermal underwear are stated as Relanit 3.2 S, Relanit 3.2 HS and Relanit 4.0.

Plush fabric with a 1.5 mm short loop also feels like fleece on the skin. The MPU 1.6 knits this fabric in gauges E22 to E28. Müller explains that yarn that shrinks a little is especially good for this purpose and says; “It can be functional microfibre yarn, which is always multifilament”. A 10 per cent admixture of elastomer yarn is also common.

The third alternative for circular machine-knitted thermal underwear is fine rib fabric napped inside. Elastic by definition does not require any elastomer content. Müller relays that underwear manufacturers often opt for a mixture of 75 per cent cotton and 25 per cent polyester, disclosing; “On an FV 2.0 or a D4 2.2 the double jersey fabric comes out fine in E22 to E24 gauge”.

Müller underlines that body mapping is another trend in sports underwear. Different perspiration areas of the human body are taken into account and patterns are made with double-sided plating. Body mapping requires larger plain segments in the back or stomach area as well as breathable jacquard areas underneath the armpits or on the sides, he adds.

The 'China Plus One' supply chain diversification strategy triggered by the global COVID-19 pandemic is creating opportunities for Indian players, says a report by India Ratings and Research.

Besides, the changing role of China's manufacturing sector in the global export value chain, is leading to the creation of growth opportunities for Indian companies.

Till recently, China was a world leader in several sectors such as home textiles and cotton apparel, but with the changing dynamics of the world supply chain, there is a considerable shift in its production strategy.

Unlike India or Pakistan, China does not have enough supply of cotton yarn, discouraging some of their local giants to invest further in this space. This scarcity however has led to Chinese manufacturers' increased interest in man-made fibres.

In India, this opportunity could lead to additional demand and consequently additional capex to the tune of Rs 120 billion over the next 10 years, adds the report.

Additionally, a new world of opportunities has opened up for India's footwear sector and few South Asian players as Chinese competitors have lost traction and started focusing elsewhere, driven by both low value addition and wage pressures.

India has a very fragmented footwear market; but given the increasing global footprint, this can change fairly quickly, and a few scaled-up players can gain market share.

In addition, the China, Plus One strategy is creating some order book growth for India's capital goods sector, the report adds.

Developer of fiber and technology solutions for the textile and apparel industry, The Lycra Company has announced a settlement for its ongoing global efforts to protect its intellectual property (IP), including patents and trademarks, from infringement worldwide.

In a lawsuit mediated by the Jiangsu Authority in China, Wilmington, Del.-based Lycra Company had accused four companies of infringing its dual core patents for denim. The company is actively looking across online marketplaces to find listings for fabrics and garments that attempt to capitalize on its brands’ positive reputations to drive sales.

Only fabrics and garments tested and certified by the Lycra Company can confirm they contain its fibers, and are eligible to use its trademarks. In October last year, the company removed 2,400 website listings and over 800 social media profiles and posts that infringed on its trademarks. Owner of brands such as Lycra, Lycra HyFit, Lycra T400, Coolmax, Thermolite, Elaspan, Supplex and Tactel, the company adds value to customers’ products by introducing innovations that meet their comfort and performance needs

Over 20 Uzbek entrepreneurs plan investments in Pakistan’s textile and other sectors. Punjab Governor Chaudhry Sarwar recently visited Uzbekistan with a business delegation to review investments opportunities for the two countries. A delegation of Uzbek agronomists will soon visit Punjab, according a report.

As per Daily Times, Uzbekistan would technologically support Punjab in order to boost cotton output. It would also assist Pakistan to increase cotton output in Punjab. For local and foreign investors, Uzbekistan will establish new special economic zones. Shavkat Abdurazzakov, Governor, Namangan Province said, investors engaging in other industries in Punjab, including textiles, will work in the same manner as they do in their own nation.

One year after introducing Common Thread Fabric Certification Program, high-performance fiber brand Sorona has launched the Preferred Mill Network, a global catalogue of mills offering the full collection of sustainable Sorona® subbranded fabrics—Agile, Aura, Luxe, Profile, and Revive. The catalogue is available to apparel brands in need of samples and sourcing of fabrics scientifically tested to meet the performance and sustainability standards set by the Sorona® team.

As per Alexa Raabm Global Brand & Communications Leader, DuPont, “The Preferred Mill Network and Common Thread Fabric Certification Program furthers Sorona’s commitment to transparency and ease of access to sustainable fabrics throughout the value chain.” The program has helped Sorona® certify 350 fabric mills worldwide and shipped hangtags for more than 43.7 million garments. Among the certified fabrics, the most certified option is Sorona® Agile, the comfort stretch fabric used for spandex replacement in activewear and athleisure garments.

Made with 37 per cent plant-based materials, Sorona offers unparalleled softness, stretch recovery, crease recovery, and resistance to UV and chlorine damage. From harvesting to production, the process for making Sorona uses 30-40 per cent less energy and releases 56-63 per cent fewer greenhouse gas emissions than the production of nylon. Fabrics made from Sorona® polymer can also be dyed and heat-set at much lower temperatures compared to polyester furthering the energy efficiency down the value chain.

Portugal’s garment and textile exports increased 16.5 per cent to reach €.419 billion in 2021. As per a Textile Focus report, exports surged 3.9 percent year-over- year from the pre-pandemic levels. Exports of knitted garments increased 9 per cent to €2.336 billion, reveals Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP) stats, home textile exports increased 17 per cent to €763 million.

However, exports of woven clothing, declined 19 per cent to €796 million. The country saw the highest rise in exports to France in absolute terms among export destinations. Exports to the country increased 18 per cent to €119 million with the French textile and garment market now accounting for 15 per cent of total exports.

Amongst non-EU destinations, exports to the US recorded highest growth of €107 million. On the other hand, exports to Spain declined 14 per cent to -€220 million. The value of Spanish apparel market fell to 25 per cent in 2021, down from 31 per cent in 2019. The sector’s trade balance in 2021 was positive at €1.168 billion, indicating a 127 percent coverage rate, as per ATP

Driven by the pandemic, consumers’ preference for comfortable loungewear is likely to sustain in future, reveals a research conducted by Naia™ from Eastman. As per a Textile World report, around 78 per cent women in the US and Europe opt for comfort as top priority when selecting loungewear. Around 74 per cent respondents said, they preferred to dress casually at home while 66 per cent said they are now choosing to dress more casually outside home.

Consumers are also looking for more comfortable fabrics and versatile loungewear, the report states. Around 61 per cent women said, they preferred investing in more casual clothing, with 44 per cent reducing the amount of formal clothing in their wardrobes. They also prefer more sustainable loungewear with new and different fibers and would like brands to offer more options.

The study also highlighted a gap in satisfaction amongst consumers who wanted better loungewear comfort, fit, quality, drape and durability. Eastman aims to fill this gap by collaborating with brands t and help them enhance the consumer shopping journey.

The 8th International Polyester Conference, Indian Polyester-2022 Hybrid Conference aims to promote the Indian Polyester, textile and PET industry to the international forum by bringing the major industries in the upstream sector of the polyester chains on the same platform. As per a Textile Value Chain report, the conference aims to promote healthy discussions and interactions amongst the end- to-end chain of the polyester industry to enhance the competiveness of the industry on the international arena. Organized by Elite Conferences on March 23 at Hotel ITC Maratha, Mumbai, the conference will be an exclusive forum for interaction among the polyester fraternity in India and their global counterparts.

It will provide an excellent opportunity for business networking and interaction amongst the industry players with talks from the key note speakers, knowledge sharing and some more constructive networking opportunities for participants. Hemant Sharma, Sector Head-Polyester, Reliance Industries will deliver the keynote address discussing the opportunities in the Indian Polyester industry.

The conference will also discuss and develop strategies to boost garment exports in India, the downstream development of the Indian polyester industry besides focusing on the emerging technical textiles developments through panel discussions amongst the consultants, industry leaders and technology providers.

Vietnam is likely to see a rise of new international fashion, lifestyle, accessories, and sportswear brands in 2022. The country will see expansion of multi-brand stores as they are popular with consumers due to the diverse range of goods and affordable prices they offer. Well-known brands, like Uniqlo and Con Cung continue to launch new stores in Vietnam despite two years filled with uncertainty and lockdowns. And as An Tu Thi Hong, Director, Commercial Leasing, Savills points out retailers plan to expand stores and reinforce the importance of physical stores in their business plans, says.

Rent in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Hanoi, and Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) grew around 0.5 per cent to 13 per cent between 2019 and 2021. Landlords in HCMC did not continue supportive policies like direct discounts in the last quarter. As such, the average rent reached VND 1,150,000 month to month, a 2 per cent increase compared to the previous quarter, reveals Hong in Vietnam's Q4 2021 market report.

He further adds demand for properties in central business district or close to popular destinations will rise as they are reputable, desirable sites with a loyal customer base. Many Vietnam brands plan to launch once international flights reopen in 2022, This will drive retail leasing in the country adds Tran Pham Phuong Quyen, retail leasing manager of Savills HCMC.