The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) will cooperate with Cotton Council International, USA, in the area of cotton.

US Cotton has been visiting Pakistan over the last few years. This interaction is expected to help in resolving issues relating to production of cotton and its trade between the two countries. The US is Pakistan’s largest trade and investment partner. There will be a technology transfer of high-yielding cotton seeds to Pakistan. The US will introduce improved, genetically modified, and certified seeds in Pakistan and share information on weather forecast.

Pakistan will be updated on the best global practices in cotton and textiles being adopted by various countries. Mutual cooperation between American cotton growers and Pakistan’s textile industry is seen as offering a win-win situation for both countries where raw cotton imported from the US is converted into manufactured textile products and exported back to the US after enormous value addition. Cotton Council International has discussed with Pakistan the challenges being faced in production of cotton in various cotton growing areas all over the world and highlighted the aspects relating to the development of eco-friendly cotton.

Agriculture research institutions in Pakistan are being given training on contamination-free cotton production.

Ted Baker is benefiting from a turnaround plan.

The British fashion group is known for its suits, shirts and dresses with quirky details. People are returning to its high-street stores and buying more formal wear and children’swear, boosting its store revenue. Growing demand for formal wear amid a return-to-office push by companies is also aiding performance.

Revenue for the 14 weeks to July 29 was up three per cent compared with last year but still down 28 per cent compared with pre-pandemic levels.While revenues from its stores jumped 20 per cent during the period, its overall performance was partly weighed down by a 13 per cent fall in online sales because of unresolved issues with its new e-commerce platform. Ted Baker which opened 34 years ago hopes for a full return to international tourism. But anaemic levels of tourism in places such as London have hurt store footfalls.Ted Bakerhas 377 stores and concessions with three-quarters of those located in the United Kingdom, Europe and North America. The upmarket retailer is now half-way through a three-year turnaround and is focused on cost cuts and boosting its online presence and product range.

Ted Baker has been bought by Juicy Couture and Forever 21 owner Authentic Brands.

Bangladesh’s apparel exports grew 58 per cent year-on-year in the first 22 days of August 2022.

The apparel industry of Bangladesh despite numerous challenges, including reduced consumer demand and reported cancellation of some work orders by global buyers, managed to put up a decent performance in terms of apparel shipments this August.

Bangladesh garment sector grew 446 per cent year-on-year in a single day during the period even if on the other end it also witnessed a negative growth of 54 per cent in a day. The hope is that August will end with positive growth even September and October are expected to see a negative trend.

Plummeting sales in the West amid rising inflation driven by the Russia-Ukraine war is the big cloud on the horizon for the apparel industry of Bangladesh which is already taking a hit. Foreign buyers are cutting new orders and postponing old ones, according to exporters who fear a huge fall in the industry’s earnings for the next few months. Export orders have decreased in August and its effects will be seen in September and October. Many buyers are holding up orders. Walmart has cut orders by 30 per cent. In the US, inflation-weary shoppers have been skimping on clothing purchases, prompting retailers to slash prices to clear inventory off the racks.

China’s position as the top global cotton importer is weakening as cotton shipments flow into flourishing textile industries in competing countries. Following years of rising production costs, volatility from government intervention in the market, and government caps on the volume of imports, China’s cotton imports dropped from their peak of 24.5 million bales in 2011 to 4.4 million bales in 2015 before rebounding to 9.5 million bales in 2021.

Meanwhile, competing countries, including Vietnam, Pakistan, Indonesia, Bangladesh, and Turkey, have expanded their textile industries and boosted cotton imports over the same period. These countries’ combined imports now exceed China’s volume of cotton imports. This increasing geographic diversification of global cotton demand has helped US cotton exports to remain relatively robust despite volatility in China’s imports over the past decade.

Combined cotton imports by Vietnam, Pakistan, Indonesia, Bangladesh, and Turkey are expected to rise by 8.1 million bales from 2021 to 2030 while China’s imports will rise by a more modest 3.5 million bales. In 2030, China is forecast to account for 24 per cent of total global cotton imports, while the other five destinations are projected to account for 47 per cent of world cotton imports.

Soon after China joined the World Trade Organisation in 2001, the nation’s textile manufacturers had become the world’s leading importers of cotton.

The garment industry in India is looking to grab the emerging global opportunity by revamping production capacity, reducing cost, focusing upon manmade fibers and embracing best sustainable practices.

Other options are integrating with the global value chain and picking up best practices like sustainability as the world embraces a China Plus One strategy.

Indian exporters have put forward stress points like ensuring raw material security, addressing RoSCTL issues, and the announcement of a new ATUF scheme and production-linked incentives. Raw material security is considered the most important owing to the spiraling prices of raw cotton and cotton yarn. As for RoSCTL, exporters want a condition deleted in the notification issued by DoR. It holds the transferee liable for the non-realisation/excess availed by the exporter, which will also curtail its misuse.

In the last one year, India has signed free trade pacts with Mauritius, the UAE and Australia, and similar negotiations with many other nations including the UK and Canada are picking up pace – with the possibility of interim deals covering the apparel sector.These FTAs are aimed at neutralising the advantage that India’s competitors used to enjoy in some of the important markets because of GSP and other non-tariff barriers to trade.

Lycra has introduced Dual Comfort technology for denim.

This is a sustainable innovation that combines comfortable stretch and cooling comfort with long-lasting shape retention. It was initially launched for wovens and ready-to-wear and is now also available for denim. These functional performance benefits come from the new Lycra T400 AEcoMade fiber, the fabric’s sole stretch fiber. This fiber contains both recycled and renewable content for reduced impact compared to virgin fibers.

Fabrics made with Lycra Dual Comfort technology are more resilient than comparable fabrics made from 100 per cent cotton, which helps apparel last longer. Garments made with Lycra Dual Comfort technology can be branded with LycraXtra LIFE. They also qualify for Coolmax branding.

Denim is a reliable companion all-day long – for work, leisure and after work. With Lycra Dual Comfort technology, jeans can be made from sustainable fabrics that provide the freedom to move, with cooling comfort and moisture wicking properties.

Lycrais a global leader in developing fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries. Extending the lifespan of clothing is more sustainable because it reduces the need for raw materials to make new clothes, and can therefore help reduce carbon, waste, and water footprints.

Fabric imports by the south Asian island nation of Sri Lanka remained volatile during the first seven months of 2022.

The country’s fabric imports declined in March when the country faced economic problems, but it managed to control the damage quickly and imports rose again in the subsequent months indicating normal textile and apparel manufacturing.

Import declined in March from February 2022, but recovered in April. Sri Lankan inward shipment of the product again increased in May and June but dropped once again in July. Of the island country’s total textile imports in January 2022 to June 2022, fabric was the most important component, with a contribution of 81.18 per cent. Sri Lanka imported 39 per cent of fabric from China and 26 per cent from India. Taiwan, Pakistan and Hong Kong were among the top five suppliers.

The country’s imported yarn during the first half of 2022 accounted for 17per cent of total textile imports. Fiber imports were 0.85 per cent. In comparison, during the first six months of last year, out of Sri Lankan textile imports, fabric imports were 79 per cent, yarn 19 per cent and fiber 0.92 per cent.

Efforts are being made to attract key players in the fabric segment to invest in fabric mills in Sri Lanka.

Several companies in China are launching new sustainable innovations. For instance, a leather handbag specialist, Guangzhou-based Veshin Factory has collaborated with Ralph Lauren-backed material science company Natural Fiber Welding to use its plastic-free leather-like textile Mirum. Similarly, Hong Kong-listed Crystal International Group has reduced the carbon footprint of products by 40 per cent since 2007. The group also reduced freshwater consumption per garment by 52 per cent compared to 2017 levels, says a Business of Fashion report.

Other Chinese firms such as Chenfeng, Erdos, Esquel and High Fashion Group are moving towards stronger traceability and accountability across the value chain. Esquel Group has constructed a green manufacturing park in Guilin, China that sustainable innovation leader Edwin Keh describes as state of the art. China has been in news owing to its environmental record and commitments. The biggest global emitter of greenhouse gases, the country aims to achieve carbon neutrality by 2060. This announcement has given manufacturers a purpose to operate.

Supply disruptions compel manufacturers to diversify

Fashion manufacturing in China has been deeply impacted by the government’s zero-COVID policy and supply chain disruptions intensified by the Russia-Ukraine war. Rising tensions between China and the West are also compelling fashion companies to diversify and nearshore their manufacturing bases.

However, despite these challenges, China continues to be the world’s largest apparel exporter, reveals World Trade Organization stats. After taking WTO membership, China has been growing in prominence as the ‘world factory’ in recent decades. The country has been focusing on sustainable apparel manufacturing for the last 29 years.

Rise in entrepreneurship culture

A long-standing challenge in implementing sustainable practices in China’s fashion industry is the huge capital required investment it needs. Esquel’s new campus in Guilin requires about two to three times more investments than that required by a conventional factory with the same production capacity.

A few suppliers are benefiting from brands launching more products with lower-impact materials. However, they are not being paid for it. William Lam, Managing Director, High Fashion Groups says, brands allocate minimum funds for suppliers as they have to achieve a certain percentage of sustainable products.

The rise of start-ups in China is creating a culture of entrepreneurship and innovation, adds Wenjian Hu, Founder, Qingdao Amino Material Technology. This year, the start-up bagged H&M Foundation’s Global Change Award for chemical recycling technology that successfully breaks down polyester-elastane blends commonly found in activewear.

Market troubled by labor concerns

The sustainability push in Chinese manufacturing industry is however troubled by labor rights concerns. The country has constantly been accused of forced labor of Uyghurs and other minority groups in its Xinjiang region. However, a few progressive manufacturers like Crystal International are seeking their own social responsibility policies. Manufacturers in China are also shifting their approach to sustainability in lateral ways. They are planning to step-up automation and efficiency across the country.

Manufacturers are also focusing on creating a talent pool of highly skilled professionals with sustainability training. For instance, High Fashion Group’s Womenswear Institute in Hong Kong has launched new courses to equip students with technical knowledge of environmental sustainability.

More subsides for fashion manufacturers

China also has an upper hand in forming new public-partnerships and creating a strong supporting infrastructure to drive sustainability in the fashion industry. Through its net zero emissions and textile waste recycling initiatives, the country has given a direction to fashion manufacturer besides introducing subsidies and tax incentives for them.

Financing mechanisms like Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs) and Energy Attribute Certificates (EACs) allow businesses to sign long-term contracts to buy renewable energy in China. However, even without these incentives, many Chinese fashion manufacturers are taking the sustainability route.

Indian exporters are ramping up their production capacity. This includes getting into the manmade fiber segment, lowering their cost of production and working on meeting global standards.

Indian apparel exports rose by about 32 per cent during April to June this fiscal as against the same period last year. Free trade agreements with countries including the UAE, Australia and the UK are expected to help neutralise the advantage which India’s competitors used to enjoy in some of the important markets. Now the apparel sector is awaiting the new Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme and the production-linked incentive scheme.

Efforts are being made toward promoting brand India at various global platforms as a trusted supplier by showcasing its strength on sustainability, circularity and ethical sourcing. The demand for Indian textiles in the domestic and overseas markets is high.Especially after the pandemic, one sector under textiles which has really got a boost has been home textiles.

The seven mega textile parks that have been launched are aimed at reducing the high logistics costs as well as the fragmented value chain which obtains now. Most of India’s major exporting destinations like the US and EU are going for a China plus one strategy, which will prove to be beneficial for India.

For the first quarter of this fiscal year Indian apparel exports grew by 31 per cent.

The country has signed free trade agreements with Mauritius, the UAE and Australia. These agreements are expected to neutralize the advantage which India’s competitors use to enjoy in some of the important markets because of GSP and other NTBs.

Further, there have been efforts to increase export competitiveness with policies like PLI Scheme, PM MITRA etc. These schemes are aimed at making Indian manufacturers global champions as they will get a level-playing field for Indian apparels as against competing countries.Most of India’s major exporting destinations like the US and EU are going for a China plus one strategy, which will prove to be beneficial for India since the cost of labor is low in India as compared to that in neighboring countries.

Indian exporters have asked for raw material security, owing to the spiraling prices of raw cotton and cotton yarn. Another pressing issue is related to RoSCTL. Exporters want the deletion of the condition in the notification issued by DoR for holding the transferee liable for the non- realization / excess availed by the exporter, which will curtail its misuse.

Additionally, the new Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) is awaited as the ATUF scheme expired on March 31, 2022.