Iconic British fashion brand Ted Baker is undergoing a restructuring as its UK arm enters administration. However, stores will remain open and fulfill orders.

Owned by American firm Authentic Brands Group (ABG) since 2022, the company is looking for a new buyer after facing financial difficulties. This move aims to save the brand and its nearly 1,000 jobs.

Administration allows companies to make organisational changes in an attempt to avoid closure and asset liquidation. With approximately 975 employees and 46 stores across the UK and Europe, Ted Baker along with its e-commerce platform and concession stores, is currently navigating this process. Additionally, the company holds licensing agreements for stores in Asian and Middle Eastern cities.

ABG blames a previous partnership with a Dutch company, AARC, for causing ‘significant financial damage.’ AARC managed Ted Baker's UK and European operations, but the collaboration resulted in substantial debts. Despite ABG's efforts, these issues proved too difficult to resolve independently.

Currently, Ted Baker's UK and European holding company, No Ordinary Designer Label (NODL), is in administration. This process allows for reorganisation to potentially avoid closure and asset sales.

ABG is actively seeking a new owner for the Ted Baker brand while ensuring stores continue operating and fulfilling customer orders.

H&M's new CEO, Daniel Erver, is under scrutiny as the company reports its first quarterly earnings under his leadership. Investors are eager for a plan to reignite revenue growth, especially after H&M shares dropped following the unexpected departure of the previous CEO.

H&M is struggling to keep pace with rivals like Zara and the fast-rising Shein. The company is caught in a squeeze, with some consumers favoring established brands while others seek out budget-friendly options. H&M is expected to report its weakest quarterly sales in two years.

Despite the sales slump, H&M is prioritising profitability over volume. They aim to reach a 10 per cent operating margin this year. The company is also investing heavily in stores and logistics, aiming to improve the customer experience and compete more effectively.

Analysts suggest H&M should follow competitor Inditex's example by investing in store upgrades and logistics, even if it impacts short-term profits.

H&M is creating a more upscale shopping experience in some stores, with a curated product selection and improved amenities.

A key advantage for clothing companies is the ability to quickly adapt to changing consumer preferences. H&M is taking steps to shorten production times and improve inventory management.

H&M has closed hundreds of stores in recent years, reflecting the changing retail landscape. However, the company still boasts a healthy cash position.

Investors are closely watching Erver's performance as he steers H&M through a competitive and evolving market. His ability to deliver a clear strategy for growth and profitability will be crucial for the company's future success.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has applauded a new European Parliament vote to fight misleading ‘green’ labels on textiles. 

This initiative enforces stricter rules for companies making environmental claims, ensuring they provide evidence to support their assertions of sustainability. By requiring transparency and accountability in labeling practices, consumers will be empowered to make more informed choices about the environmental impact of their purchases.

With its latest iteration, GOTS Version 7.0, the standard sets forth rigorous criteria to safeguard human rights, labor conditions, and environmental sustainability throughout the textile supply chain. 

Companies adhering to GOTS guidelines and obtaining certification demonstrate their dedication to sustainability and ethical business practices.

For over twenty years, overseen by the non-profit Global Standard, GOTS has been at the forefront of promoting responsible textile processing methods. Through its comprehensive approach, GOTS provides businesses with the tools and guidelines necessary to comply with both domestic and international regulations. Consumers who purchase GOTS-certified products can trust that stringent sustainability standards have been met during production.

Furthermore, GOTS welcomes the directive's focus on private environmental labels, urging for reliability, transparency, independent verification, and regular review processes. As the proposal moves into the 'trilogue' phase, where European Union institutions finalise regulations, GOTS advocates for continued progress in this direction. 

The organisation remains vigilant in monitoring the implementation of these requirements, ensuring that environmental claims in the textile industry are substantiated and trustworthy.

Nike hs appointed Tim Hamilton as the new Vice President - Men's Apparel Design. Hamilton now leads the design team, reporting to the men's creative director.

With experience spanning over 25 years in fashion design, Hamilton transitions to the sportswear giant from The North Face, where he served as head of global creative since 2017. During his tenure at the VF Corp.-owned brand, he played a pivotal role in shaping the creative direction and products for international markets.

Before The North Face, he had founded his own successful clothing line, known for its minimalist aesthetic. His designs were so well-received that he earned three CFDA Award nominations.

Hamilton's resume also includes design roles at major US fashion companies like Madewell, J Crew, Gap Inc, and Polo Ralph Lauren. This news comes on the heels of a strong financial performance for Nike. Despite softer demand for footwear and apparel, the company's cost-cutting measures have led to higher-than-expected sales. In its latest quarter, ending February 29, 2024, the brand’s revenues grew to $12.4 billion, driven by strong sales in North America and Greater China. Sales in China grew by 4.5 per cent, while North America saw a 3.2 per cent revenue increase to $5.07 billion.

United States Trade Representative (USTR) Ambassador Katherine Tai embarked on a crucial visit to Glen Raven's advanced yarn spinning manufacturing plant and Sunbrella flagship brand headquarters in Burlington, N.C. The visit was accompanied by an industry supply chain roundtable, emphasizing the significance of domestic textiles in the supply chain.

Ambassador Tai’s presence aligns with USTR's call for public input, aiming to inform the administration's trade and investment policy initiatives regarding domestic supply chain resilience. Specifically, the office is focusing on the textile sector, encompassing yarns, fabrics, apparel, and other finished goods, for its fact-finding investigation to shape policy tools enhancing supply chain resilience.

Glen Raven CEO Leib Oehmig expressed deep gratitude for hosting Ambassador Tai, emphasizing the pivotal role of trade policies in supporting domestic manufacturing, employment, and sectoral growth. The company, renowned for its contributions to local communities and the U.S. economy, underscored the necessity for robust trade policies amidst challenging economic and global trade conditions.

NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas echoed appreciation for Ambassador Tai's visit, recognizing USTR’s efforts in developing supply chain resilience policies crucial for securing the U.S. textile supply chain's future.

Ambassador Tai’s tour of Glen Raven's facilities included an exploration of the Sunbrella facilities, a design and innovation center, and a roundtable discussion with textile executives. The visit highlighted the sector's substantial impact on the U.S. economy.

Glen Raven, with a rich history dating back to 1880, operates five manufacturing facilities in North and South Carolina, employing 2,500 individuals. The company is in the midst of a $250 million multi-phase U.S. capacity expansion plan to meet escalating customer demand, underscoring its commitment to strengthening domestic manufacturing capabilities.

HMS International, a leading company in the global fabric market with renowned brands like Gladson New York & Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, is adjusting its approach to cater to changing customer preferences. In an interview with Bob McAuley, President, HMS International , Sanjay Chawla, Global Convener, FashionatingWorld delves into the evolving trends shaping the textile industry during Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Spring Edition 2024.

Q: Bob, how has the fabric market changed in recent years?

A: We're seeing a big shift towards casual and performance fabrics. People are looking for clothes that are comfortable and versatile, with features like stretch and moisture-wicking. This is happening all over the world, but the US market seems to be leading the charge.

Q: What about the Chinese market? They're known for luxury goods.

A: That's true, there's still a strong demand for high-end fabrics in China. However, the trend towards casualization is reaching China as well. Interestingly, there's also a growing interest in heavier fabrics, which goes against the global trend a bit.

Q: So, what are some of the hottest trends in fabric right now?

A: Definitely heavier fabrics, like gabardine, are making a comeback in some regions. But overall, it's casual and performance fabrics with stretch that are really dominating the market. We're also seeing a rise in women's tailored clothing and sportswear options.

Q: How do these trends differ across the US, Europe, and China?

A: In the US, it's all about casual wear with stretch fabrics. They prefer simpler designs, like small patterns and tone-on-tone colors. Europe leans towards those heavier fabrics and a more classic, "English Feeling" style. China, like I mentioned, is a mix of casualization and a preference for heavier, performance fabrics.

Q: You mentioned India is a big market for HMS. Can you tell us more about that?

A: India is actually our biggest market! We've had a presence there since 2012, with a large team of over 100 people, including a dedicated design department that caters specifically to Indian tastes. We sell directly to retailers, with around 2500 accounts across the country. It's important to note that India isn't just an "all wool" market. We offer a variety of fabrics based on what sells best there, and production happens in Europe, China, and India itself.

The Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Spring Edition, a leading global trade fair for apparel textiles and accessories, concluded its three-day run on March 8th with a resounding success. The spring edition served as a testament to the industry's resilience and its bright future, particularly with the China market showing signs of growth and a shift in consumer preferences. The event witnessed a significant increase in both exhibitors and visitors compared to the previous edition, highlighting the industry's strong recovery and renewed optimism.

Surge in international participation and visitation

Following the government's visa relaxation measures, the fair saw a remarkable 22.9% increase in international exhibitors. International visitor numbers skyrocketed by 99%, with a particularly high 87% returning on days two and three, signifying a serious intent to source. "The exceptional return rate of overseas buyers... speaks to the multitude of sourcing options at our comprehensive platform", commented Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, emphatically. 

China Market Insights: Shifting market preferences

Alessandro Barberis Canonico, CEO of Vitale Barberis Canonico, observes , “The major changes in the China market over the years have included a shift from buying high-quality, high-priced products to more price- conscious options, a transition from formal wear to leisure and outdoor products, and a slowdown in the market due to economic challenges such as high unemployment rates and real estate issues. Additionally, there has been a shift towards functional leisure products, with a small percentage of formal production transitioning to this new trend.   Adds  Bob HMS, “A global trend towards casual and performance fabrics. This shift is evident in China as well, with a growing demand for these fabrics alongside a continued interest in higher-end options.” 

Domestic demand remains strong

The domestic market also displayed robust demand, with a high number of Chinese buyers seeking textiles with luxury, sustainable, and functional elements. "It seems we are back to the fairs of 2016 – 2018, where it was really profitable. It’s a good sign for the Chinese luxury market", observed Andrea Rossi, Sales Manager of Lanificio Luigi Colombo S.p.A (Italy Pavilion) 

Exhibitors laud renewed business potential

Kurabo Textiles, Japan, is entering the China market for the first time. “Kurabo produces mainly woven fabrics, including specialty fabrics in cotton made with compact yarn. The company is new in China, was not selling into China market so far, as they were selling to the USA and the Europe market. Kurabo is focused on promoting ecology and sustainability in their products. Kurabo is strong in finishing of their products, particularly about their facility in Japan. We aim to leverage our expertise in Japanese finishing techniques to gain a foothold,” says Takashi Mitani, General Manager, Kurabo.

Exhibitors across the textile spectrum expressed their satisfaction with the renewed ease of doing business and the strength of the domestic market. Chen Yu Jyun of Shibaya (Japan Pavilion) highlighted the effectiveness of the WeChat sample ordering system, leading to a surge in customer details. Jeanie Hu, Marketing Director for HeiQ (China) Material Tech Co Ltd, emphasized the importance of such comprehensive platforms to reach diverse target sectors.

Buyers find inspiration and sourcing solutions

Buyers like Cao Yunfeng, Senior Fabric Purchasing Manager of JNBY Finery Co Ltd, lauded the fair's vast offerings, allowing them to source fabrics for various categories. Hong Sajun, Purchasing Manager of YoungHW Textile Trading Co Ltd, found several potential suppliers in the Trend Forum, particularly for eco-friendly fabrics. Rebecca Sales of Jonathan Simkai Inc., USA, appreciated the opportunity to discover new fabrics and collaborate with a global audience.

Fringe programme enhances knowledge sharing

The fringe program, encompassing seminars, forums, and product presentations, provided valuable insights on design trends, market information, sustainability, and technological advancements. Clara Tse of HKRITA, Hong Kong, emphasized the collaborative nature of the discussions surrounding sustainability. Mr. Kai Chow of DONEGER | TOBE, USA, commended the Trend Forum's realistic approach to showcasing commercially viable fabrics.

Co-located synergies

The co-location of the fair with other textile-related events like Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo Spring offered a one-stop platform for exploring the entire textile value chain, fostering further networking opportunities.

India's leading manufacturer of curtains and upholstery, D’décor is on a trajectory of significant expansion, says Sanjay Arora, Managing Director. The company plans to elevate its daily fabric output from 140,000 m to exceed 200,000 m within the next four years, driven by a steadfast commitment to meeting burgeoning consumer demands while maintaining a competitive edge.

Currently operating at 93 per cent capacity, D’Decor's facilities are equipped with cutting-edge technology, including robotic systems, across its manufacturing plants in Tarapur, Maharashtra, and warehouses in Noida and Bengaluru. With a workforce of around 6,000 employees, D’Decor dominates the market with a 30 per cent share of the organised segment, holding the distinction of being the largest global producer of curtains and upholstery, evenly split between domestic and export markets. While curtains constitute the majority of their business, D’Decor also excels in beddings, blinds, rugs, and other complementary products.

Experiencing a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 13-15 per cent in recent years, the company has consistently achieved a 50 per cent revenue increase every four years, partially attributed to the unexpected surge in demand during the COVID-19 pandemic. Looking forward, Arora anticipates a further 50 per cent growth over the next four years.

In addition to expanding manufacturing capabilities, D’Decor is poised to introduce a new brand next month and intensify efforts to penetrate deeper into the domestic market. 

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and H&M Foundation have formed a new collaboration to bolster the efforts of the Global Circular Fashion Forum (GCFF). 

Over the next three years, this partnership will inject substantial funding into GFA's circularity impact initiatives while also acting as a catalyst for expanding the National Circular Fashion Partnership programs. These programs are currently active in Bangladesh, with plans for development in Cambodia, Vietnam, Türkiye, and Indonesia.

Since its launch in 2022, GCFF, a global initiative established by GFA and supported by Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH (GIZ), has been instrumental in driving global and local action in textile manufacturing countries to accelerate and scale the recycling of post-industrial textile waste. By November 2023, GCFF and its National Circular Fashion Partnerships had successfully recycled 10,685 tonnes of textile waste, equivalent to approximately 60 million t-shirts. This was achieved by building a collaborative community comprising 179 manufacturers, 15 waste handlers, and 22 recyclers.

With the invaluable support of H&M Foundation, continued partnership with GIZ, and collaboration with project partners Circle Economy, Closed Loop Fashion, Reverse Resources, and local stakeholders in targeted regions, GFA is poised to extend the reach and amplify the influence and impact of GCFF. Together, these organizations aim to establish an effective ecosystem for scaling circularity within the fashion industry.

The ultimate vision of GCFF is to spearhead a long-term, scalable, and just transition towards a fully circular fashion industry. This will be accomplished through a strategic blend of knowledge exchange, multistakeholder facilitation, and mobilising industry commitment.

The Spring Edition of the global apparel flagship fair Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics concluded on March 8 after three days of fostering cross-border business and facilitating various Spring/Summer 2025 fashion forums. 

With the government's relaxation of visa requirements, the event witnessed a significant surge in international exhibitors by 22.9 per cent compared to the previous edition, drawing nearly 90,000 visitors from 116 countries and regions. International visitor numbers soared by 99 per cent, with an impressive 87% returning on Days 2 and 3, reflecting strong sourcing intent.

Spanning 190,000 sqm and seven halls at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), the fair experienced high domestic buyer demand, particularly for luxury, sustainable, and functional textiles. The top visiting countries and regions included Korea, Hong Kong, India, Russia, and Japan, with over 100 buyers from industry associations representing various nations. Notably, pavilions and zones from France, Italy, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, and Türkiye garnered significant attention, alongside group pavilions from key players like Korea Textile Center, Lenzing, and OEKO-TEX®.

New exhibiting countries brought diverse products to the spotlight, such as Ethiopia's sustainable fabrics, Peru's cotton knitted garments, and Spain's fashion and interior pattern designs. Exhibitors praised the renewed ease of doing business and the robustness of the domestic market.

As the apparel fair coincided with other textile-related events, including Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring, CHIC, and PH Value, it offered a comprehensive platform for networking and business opportunities across the entire textile value chain.

Organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, and the China Textile Information Centre, the fair showcased the dynamism and innovation of the global apparel and textile industry. Future editions promise to continue this tradition of excellence, with upcoming shows scheduled in Shenzhen, Shanghai, and Vietnam.