The 34th edition of Milano Unica will be held from February 01-02, at Rho Fieramilano in Milan, Italy and will feature < The Japan Observatory > (JOB).

To be co-organised by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFW) and the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), JOB will feature ten companies plus one group in the physical exhibitors’ space. It will also feature fabrics from twelve companies that will be displayed in a newly installed JOB Plus booth

Some of the companies that will participate in JOB include StylemTakisada-Osakathat will mark its 12th participation in JOB this year. Assisted by a local subsidiary in Italy and a business agency in Milan, the company will handle its business at the fair in absence of its staff from Japan due to COVID-19 related travel restrictions. It will showcase abundant products and color variations, plus scope to handle even small-batch orders.

Another exhibitor Silk Textiles Global Promotion Consortium will enhance alignment of the three traditional textile industry players: Nishijin, Tango and Yuzen, from each production hub in Kyoto Prefecture, with five of its companies set to make their debut in the JOB area on this occasion.Morisan from Nishijin will present the ‘Nishijinori-Kinran’ series

Third exhibitor Miyashinwill showcase outstanding textile development ability, including those with hard-twisting silk yarns that generate a three-dimensional surface effect, alongside silk-washifabrics representing a highly focused ecological material.

Tayuh Textile Industry Corp will showcase a collection leveraging twisting and weaving techniques nurtured in Tango chirimen manufacturing. Three companies representing Japan Denim from Hiroshima Prefecture will also join JOB.

UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) I is hoping for the success of the North West Adoption Program. The technology adoption program urges textile firms to drive sustainability and growth through digitization of operations. The program is being adopted by 125 companies from the sector by tapping into impartial expert technology advice, organizing digital transformation workshops to help them take their first steps, a leadership program, digital technology internships, and skills development support.

Of these, 13 textile businesses are investing in new digital technology to solve key challenges while increasing productivity, growth, and creating new high value jobs. To continue building on its achievements and ensure the UK remains competitive against global competition, manufacturers need to embrace current and emerging technologies, and the huge potential digitization offers, as well as to raise the skills and productivity of the people who work in the sector to the highest level, says Adam Mansell, CEO, UKFT.

The Uttar Pradesh garment industry has suffered heavy losses due to the third COVID-19 wave. The garment industry in Noida and Kanpur in particular, reported a 40 percent slump in production and a considerable drop in export. The garment industry in these two cities had been showing signs of recovery from November 2021 onwards after a successive slowdown of two years, when the third COVID wave hit in January.

As per a Textile Value Chain report, there are over 10,000 textile and garment units across the state with most of them located in the Kanpur and the Noida region. The Noida region alone houses around 3000 textile units and each unit has a minimum workforce of around 100 employees.

Nearly all of them are facing a financial crisis as foreign buyers are reluctant to place orders. They are apprehensive about the capacity of these textile and garment units to fulfill the ordera due to the prevailing COVID-19 conditions.

Bangladesh's readymade garment (RMG) exports to the US surged 45.91 per cent during the July-December period of fiscal year 2021-22. Country-wise RMG export data published by the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), shows, Bangladesh’s apparel export earnings surged to $4.2 billion in the first six months of the current fiscal year from $2.9 billion during the same period of FY21. As per a Dhaka Tribune report, Bangladesh’s exports of woven products grew by 39.97 per cent during the period to $2.83 billion. Its knitwear exports grew by 57.48 per cent to $1.54 billion.

Data from an affiliate of the US Department of Commerce, OTEXA, shows, Bangladesh’s RMG exports increased by 30.68 per cent to $6.36 billion during the first 11 months of 2021compared to $4.86 billion in the same period of 2020. Shahidullah Azim, Vice President, BGMEA says, Bangladeshi clothing has good potential in the American market as the US has shifted orders from China due to trade, from Myanmar due to the military rule and from India due to its worsening COVID-19 situation.

Besides the US, Bangladesh’s garment exports to the EU also increased 23.83 per cent to $12 billion in the first six months of FY22, from $9.7 billion in the same period of FY21. Exports to the Canadian market grew 23.78 per cent to $602.82 million in the first half of the current fiscal while to the UK market it grew 20.65 per cent to $2.14 billion during the July-December period of the current FY. However, Bangladesh’s apparel exports to China declined 21.04 per cent to $110.39 per cent during FY22 from $139.81 million in FY21.

Former executive at companies like IKEA and Google, Barbara Martin Coppola has been named as new Global CEO by French sports retailer Decathlon. Coppola will replace Michel Aballea, who held the role since 2015 till mid-March this year.

Currently in sound financial shape, Decathlon echoes bullish updates recently given by sportswear companies such as Puma and JD Sports, which have performed well despite the COVID-19 pandemic.

The company’s current good health encourages it to accelerate the transformation of its business model to reassert its position as a world leader in sport, says Fabien Derville, Chairman, Decathlon.

According to Decathlon's website, the company registered sales of €11.4 billion. The Mulliez family, which also owns the Auchan supermarket chain, owns the majority shareholding in Decathlon.

As per a new study by independent assurance and risk management provider, DNV, 35.8 per cent of the surveyed 2,900 consumers in the US and in Europe said, they had not heard of circular economy. Of them, 45 per cent indicated they have extensive knowledge and actively participate. DNV says, knowledge about and engagement in circularity are higher among younger generations, with more than 53 percent saying they actively participated.

Consumers are increasing their knowledge about circularity through traditional and social media, says the survey. This is followed by “political discussion” and through friends. Despite companies building QR Codes into their labels and working with eco-storetelling, only one in five respondents mentioned that they get their information from manufacturers and suppliers directly, indicating that businesses may need to do more to get their message out and build trust.

The survey showed, products with recycled properties are a priority for 48.1 per cent of the respondents, and 62.9 per cent said they prefer to buy less or opt for secondhand products. Those above 55 years do more repairs than their younger counterparts, while the younger respondents tend to buy more secondhand and rent instead of owning.

Although style and price continue to weigh heavily on purchasing decisions, price is especially relevant for younger consumers, which DNV said could be linked to their purchasing power. Besides cost, several factors influence consumers when deciding on whether to buy circular fashion products. Information on a product’s ecological footprint is important to nearly half of the respondents, closely followed by working and labor conditions, quality of the product, and certifications, verified labels and validated sustainability claims.

Most respondents believe companies and brands should take responsibility for a product’s recyclability and end of life as well as being more innovative—and many are willing to back this up with their spending.

Kong Sang has been elected as the new president of Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia (GMAC) elected its new president. He replaced Van Sou Ieng at the association’s recent Annual General Meeting. The meeting was presided by Ith Samheng, Labor Minister, who said, textiles, garments, footwear, bags and travel products are set to be the future growth sectors as they grew by an average annual growth rate of about 10 per cent for the last 10 years.

He said although a slight decline was seen in 2020, good recovery was made last year with exports in the first 10 months increasing significantly with garment exports amounting to $6,538 million, an increase of 6 per cent over previous year. He added footwear exports increased 20 per cent last year to $1.113 million compared to 2020 while exports of travel products also rose 49 per cent to $1.179 million.

GMAC works closely with the Ministry of Labor, Ministry of Commerce, relevant ministries, institutions, international labour organisations, unions and social partners to contribute significantly towards the socio-economic development of Cambodia, Samheng added.

Bolstered by higher prices and strong demand for jeans and jackets, Levi Strauss & Co forecast annual sales and profit above analysts' estimates. According to Refinitiv IBES data, the Levi's 501 jeans maker expects revenues to rise between $6.4 billion and $6.5 billion in fiscal year 2022, compared with analysts' estimates of $6.37 billion.

The denim company plans to raise prices further in 2022 as demand outstripped supply in the quarter due to supply chain snarls, adds Chip Berg, CEO. Lower promotions, more full-price selling and reopening of European and Asian markets also lifted the Denizen brand’s sales in the fourth quarter.

Compared to pre-pandemic levels, it’s net revenues from Asia remained flat in the three months ended November 28, recovering from a 23 per cent slump reported in the third quarter.

Net revenues of the company rose by 22 per cent to $1.69 billion in the fourth quarter, edging past analysts' estimate of $1.68 billion.

The pandemic is expected to cause a sea-change in consumers’ attitudes, says Neil Thorpe, Managing Director and Founder, Neil Thorpe Lace Design & Draughting. Consumers will now be driven towards a more mindful consumption, he adds. Thorpe and his team have been developing lace patterns since 1986. They are currently developing new patterns for Spring/Summer 2023 besides creating new lace designs for Fall/Winter 2023-24 for a few esteemed clients. The company mainly excels in creating lingerie lace patterns, which form 80 per cent of its total output.

Natural cotton look being preferred

“The pandemic has compelled consumers to focus on comfort and sustainability,” Thorpe says. Buyers are demanding softer and more environment-friendly garments. “To cater to this, we are creating more designs having a natural cotton look with more ethically accepted yarns like modal,” he states. The color scheme for the season is determined by the company’s consumers on the basis of their target markets. Buyers are opting for fabrics with a natural look in biege, white and cream tones. These give the garment an impression of being environmentally conscious, Thorpe explains.

Elaborating on the most preferred yarns of the season, Thorpe says, lighter yarns are in demand due to their environment-friendliness and natural patterns. However, lighter lurex yarns have fallen out of favor as they give the garment a plastic look. His firm is developing a new range of super soft, environmentally certified fibers, as there is a need for a wider selection of sustainable yarns, says Thorpe. It is also discovering optimal lapping techniques for smooth processing of latest yarns on the lace machine.

Floral and delicate designs in vogue

There is still some demand for small geometric patterns amongst younger consumers, says Thorpe. Yet, he believes, trends for the next seasons lean more towards floral designs. There is growing demand amongst consumers for timeless designs like florals. However, the floral patterns are given a modern twist by varying their sizes and experimenting with designs of edges and using new techniques.

As evident by the growing popularity of crochet and pinhole embroidery patterns, consumers are opting for heavier patterns. However, their affinity for delicate designs also persists, adds Thorpe. They are using the lapping technique to create designs with these lightweight yarns, he adds.

In terms of machine performance, the firm often gets feedback from customers. It welcomes new developments in the industry to boost operations. It seeks a wider, more readily available supply of sustainable yarns to meet the demand for more conscious fashion. The firm seeks an improved yarn that does not slip or loop on being combined with elastane, adds Thorpe.

Copenhagen Fashion Week’s second annual report reflects its Action Plan to achieve sustainability targets in 2022. It showcases the organizers’ commitment, challenges and ambitions in living up to its strategy. Copenhagen Fashion Week has been developing its Sustainability Action Plan 2020-2022 since 2019. The plan was finally unveiled on January 28, 2020.

Reducing climate impact by 50 per cent

Titled ‘Reinventing Copenhagen Fashion Week – Reducing negative impacts, innovating our business model and accelerating industry change’ the Sustainability Action Plan 2020-2022 delineates future transformation of the event. In future, the event aims to focus on reducing the industry’s impact on the climate by 50 per cent and reorganizing waste management systems to target zero waste by 2022. It also outlines Copenhagen Fashion Week’s strategies to implement sustainability requirements and set new standards the industry.

Developed in collaboration with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s knowledge partner, In futurum, the plan is monitored by Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Board of Directors and Sustainability Advisory Board that includes industry leaders like Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, Ganni’s; Eva Kruse, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda and Clare press, Sustainability Editor, Vogue Australia. Several internationally acknowledged experts including Orsola de Castro, Frashion Revolutions, Professor Dilys Williams, Centre for Sustainable Fashion and Katherine Richardson, Professor, Biological Oceanography reviewed the 2023 Sustainability Requirements presented in the action plan.

Its sustainability potential was determined by the following three factors:

• SDG 12: Responsible consumption and production

• SDG 13: Climate Action

• SDG 17: Partnerships for the goals

Milestones achieved

As per the plan, some of the most significant milestones achieved by the event organizers in the last two years include:

New partnerships: One significant milestone achieved by event organizers in the last two years was new partnerships built around the 2023 Sustainability Requirements. In 2021, Copenhagen Fashion Week formed new partnerships with the trade fair CIFF (Copenhagen International Fashion Fair), the Norwegian Fashion Hub, Oslo Runway and the Icelandic Fashion Council who will all be implementing the 2023 Sustainability Requirements.

Training SMEs: Organizers also selected the requirements of the government-funded program Grøn Genstart, Fremtidens Tekstiler as the framework to train 50 SMEs in the Danish industry to lead to targeted action.

Delivering targets: They also ensured delivery on 19 out of 21 targets. Currently working on meeting their targets from the first Action Plan, organizers also plan to set new targets for 2023-25 and redefine their strategies for the future. They will also continue to pursue international partnerships to amplify the impact of the 2023 Sustainability Requirements and drive change in the industry at a global scale.