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With Accord closing operations, Bangladesh workers could face a bleak future

"Working conditions for garment workers in Bangladesh are likely to turn bleak as the High Court of Bangladesh will soon give its judgment on the closure of Dhaka office of Accord on Fire and Building Safety and evict its inspectors. Established after the 2012 collapse of Rana Plaza, Accord is a legally-binding agreement among brands, retailers, and trade unions designed to build a safe Bangladeshi garment industry. The agreement, over the past five years, has been instrumental in forcing improvements in the factories that supply its signatory companies, which include H&M, Arcadia Group (owner of Topshop), and Inditex (owner of Zara). Though not perfect, Accord has been effective enough to be renewed this year for another five-year term."

 

With Accord closing operations Bangladesh workers could face a bleak future 002Working conditions for garment workers in Bangladesh are likely to turn bleak as the High Court of Bangladesh will soon give its judgment on the closure of Dhaka office of Accord on Fire and Building Safety and evict its inspectors. Established after the 2012 collapse of Rana Plaza, Accord is a legally-binding agreement among brands, retailers, and trade unions designed to build a safe Bangladeshi garment industry. The agreement, over the past five years, has been instrumental in forcing improvements in the factories that supply its signatory companies, which include H&M, Arcadia Group (owner of Topshop), and Inditex (owner of Zara). Though not perfect, Accord has been effective enough to be renewed this year for another five-year term.

Government inspection to fall short of Accord

Earlier this year, factory owners in Bangladesh advocated the government to takeover the compliance process as its initial term was set to expire. This resulted in a fierce government crackdown on garment worker activities which continued as government, workers, and factory owners renegotiated the country’s paltry minimum wage.

However, a government-directed inspection regime is likely to be far short of The Accord’s efforts. The Accord is a legally binding agreement which has the ability to force compliance at both ends of the supply chain. It can not only ensure that factories improve conditions, but that brands support these often-costly improvements and discontinue sourcing from factories that remain subpar. Clean Clothes Campaign is urging The Accord’s signatory companies to stipulate that upcoming orders are contingent on The Accord office remaining open, and its inspectors continuing their work.

Accord supporters ignore subcontracting

Some brands like Esprit also believe activism in key market countries could make the Bangladesh brand toxic to consumers in spite of the tremendousWith Accord closing operations Bangladesh workers could face a bleak future 001 improvements it has achieved in recent years. Factory owners, however, believe that no brand which sources substantially from Bangladesh can afford to shift quantities overnight. These factory owners are aware that western brands, who reiterate their commitment to The Accord’s principals, often turn a blind-eye to subcontracting. These factory owners are aware of things happening around them yet turn a blind eye as the fast fashion business model relies on it.

An honest conversation needed

Though Center for Business and Human Rights wants The Accord office in Bangladesh to remain open, and for its inspectors to continue doing their work, the Accord is likely to fade away sooner or later. There, therefore needs to be an honest conversation about how clothes in Bangladesh are being made, and what it will cost the brands—and, by extension, consumers.

 

 
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