Many of the world’s largest viscose manufacturers have not yet adopted responsible production methods and sustainable wood sourcing practices. Companies like Next, Esprit and Inditex are said to have allowed their manufacturers to deliver viscose-based products with little information on their origin or environmental impact. These manufacturers are generally based in China, which accounts for 63 per cent of global viscose production.

Several large Chinese viscose producers dump toxic wastewater into waterways and fisheries, or allow it to seep onto nearby agricultural land. Some big-name brands have collectively funded the development of a new online tool that allows businesses, investors and customers to track the origin of paper, wood and viscose sourced by corporates.

Lenzing and Aditya Birla, two of the world’s largest viscose producers, have committed all their sites to meeting EU ecolabel requirements for viscose production by 2022. With demand for dissolving pulp projected to increase by 122 per cent in the next 40 years, the viscose industry is a growing threat to vulnerable habitats around the world.

Due to the rising use of textile blends among fashion retailers, viscose is now the third most commonly used fiber in the world. As a biodegradable fiber, it has the potential to be a sustainable alternative to oil-derived synthetic fabrics and water-hungry cotton.