The era of larger-than-life fashion designers such as John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld may be coming to an end, as many brands are shifting towards a low-profile approach.

Recent controversies involving Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, and rapper Kanye West have highlighted the risks of having a provocative figurehead. While Gvasalia has been credited with making Balenciaga one of the hottest brands, his edgy approach and celebrity friends have become a liability.

Many brands, including Louis Vuitton and Gucci, are moving away from the big-name designer model. The departure of Alessandro Michele from Gucci and the tragic death of Virgil Abloh from Louis Vuitton have meant that their studios are now in charge of design work.

According to fashion consultants, brand identity is no longer solely about the designer, and designers are seen as interpreters of brand identity. The shift towards a low-profile approach is reflected in the appointment of lesser-known designers at brands such as Hermes, Chanel, and Dior. The trend can be traced back to 2011 when Galliano was removed from Dior after making an anti-Semitic outburst. While brands want to sell products, they also need to entertain and ask questions, which require a little seduction and madness. It is a delicate balance, and the challenge for brands is to strike the right balance between being provocative and being commercially successful.