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Dormeuil weaves innovative ‘175’ fabric to mark 175th anniversary

Driven by a quest for rare, invaluable fibres to manufacture the most magnificent fabrics in the world, the House of Dormeuil is celebrating the 175th anniversary of its foundation with an innovative creation. Known as ‘175 fabric’, this new cloth is masterfully woven with, the softest Vicuña and the finest Merino wool form an exquisite fabric. The fabric is a combination of two superlative wools from the Andes and Tasmania. Dominic Dormeuil, the 5th generation of the family, searched the Altiplano until he reached the Puno province, at 4800 meter mountaintop. From there, he selected the finest Vicuña, the fibre of the Gods. 

 

 

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Driven by a quest for rare, invaluable fibres to manufacture the most magnificent fabrics in the world, the House of Dormeuil is celebrating the 175th anniversary of its foundation with an innovative creation. Known as ‘175 fabric’, this new cloth is masterfully woven with, the softest Vicuña and the finest Merino wool form an exquisite fabric. The fabric is a combination of two superlative wools from the Andes and Tasmania. Dominic Dormeuil, the 5th generation of the family, searched the Altiplano until he reached the Puno province, at 4800 meter mountaintop. From there, he selected the finest Vicuña, the fibre of the Gods. Long reserved for the Inca emperors, it is today revered as a sacred gift of Pachamama, the Mother Earth goddess. Sheered only once every two years, a vicuña produces from 120 to 300 gm of fibre.

Dormeuil weaves innovative 175 fabric to mark 175th anniversary

 

These animals demand specific attention to care and unpolluted fields for grazing. The Winton merinos produce a wool of unparalleled fineness, thanks to the quality of the land, 3,000 hectares of gently rolling hills, abundantly covered in lush vegetation and boasting a mild climate. When sheering season arrives during the Austral winter, the fleece bears witness to its extraordinary quality. Perfectly uniform and crimped, the long fibres are bewitchingly velvety and very resistant. Their ultra-soft feel, lightness and remarkable fineness (13.5 microns) offer a unique texture.

Weaving finesse

The Dormeuil Huddersfield workshops in Yorkshire have designed a specially adapted weave. Master weavers drew from 175 years of expertise combining ancestral weaving and finishing methods in the English fashion with innovative techniques. On state-of- the-art looms, each weaver ensures that the process runs smoothly and that the shuttles remain supplied with yarn. Fabric 175 has impeccable drape that recovers neatly when stretched, proof of its elasticity. The House has designed a straightforward, contemporary palette for 175 in tune with the Dormeuil tradition.

The USP

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Dominic Dormeuil, President, says “Dormeuil is the first company in the world that has launched natural stretch in pure wool fabrics, without any use of spandex or elastane material.” He explains, wool as a fibre has natural elasticity up to 30 per cent, earlier as a process, elasticity is removed before processing the wool fibre in spinning, weaving and finishing because it is very difficult to process with elastic fibre. “But now, we have developed technology to process the natural elasticity through spinning, weaving and processing to have a finished product that has stretch up to 15-25 per cent, and please note this is not mechanical stretch. A part of our range has already been introduced in natural stretch. This adds approximately 10 per cent to the cost of fabrics. But this is being highly appreciated by luxury brands, as no one in luxury segment appreciates spandex/elstane based stretch,” informs Dominic Dormeuil. For Dormeuil, Asia is the biggest market especially Japan and China, followed by the US and then Europe.

Colours & trends

The luxurious fabric is available in tones of navy blue and anthracite grey, echoing the magnificent immensity of the Altiplano and Tasmania. Deploying the traditional dying processes, the discreet weave pattern underpins the remarkable fineness of the wool. For Dormeuil, all colors and shades of blue are in, the trend now as he says, “Blue is the new Black”. Speaking on trends, he remarks, that trend is towards more of casualwear and youth wear, jacketing and reversible products.

 
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