Benetton’s new creative director Andrea Incontri's latest runway show, held on Feb 25 for the United Colors of Benetton incorporates the concept of infinity to represent the brand's generational history. The linearity of time is transformed into an endless cycle of products, values, and aesthetics, resulting in a continuous flow of apparel and accessories crossing a fully mirrored set. Showcasing complete approach to the vibrant ensemble The show begins with tailoring, including jackets, trousers, and coats in full, tonal colors, as well as houndstooth check or tweed, and ends with workwear, such as overalls, garment-dyed canvas skirts, and jackets with contrasting stitching. The collection features eco-leather, including the vinyl-effect biker jacket, and eco-shearling for plush apparel and accessories, extending beyond the brand's core knitwear.

The colors and prints contrast with the clean, precise cuts, starting with black and white and ending in grey and mirrored silver. Neutral colors serve as the extremes of an endless space of Benetton polychromy, represented in the collection by seven saturated shades: ultramarine blue, primrose yellow, emerald green, hot pink, rosewood red, wisteria, and orange flame.

Rabbit, flower, and the mushroom represent figurative themes

The show's rhythm is marked by symbols, geometric shapes, and patterns whose serial repetition replicates the cycles of nature and industrial production. The organic and spontaneous nature of the former is represented by the show's main figurative themes: the rabbit, the flower, and the mushroom, transformed into stylized designs for jacquard inserts, prints, and patterns.

Accessories such as bags, platforms, Mary Janes, loafers, and combat boots in vinyl or eco-leather, and furry belts, bags, and footwear, complement the apparel. Enamelled costume jewelry reprises the subjects of the prints, adding small, brilliant details.

The show's chromatic metamorphosis drives its evolution, culminating in three-dimensionality suspended as in a frame.

Retail sales in Bermuda experience lackluster response despite overall volume increase in November.

According to the November Retail Sales Index, the value of sales increased by 5.6%, or $5.7 million, to $98.1 million. However, much of this increase was due to the 6.1% retail inflation rate.

Although apparel stores saw a 2.2% increase in the value of sales, the volume of sales declined by 1.7% year-over-year in November, with a 33.4% drop compared to pre-pandemic levels in November 2019. Despite retailers' call to "buy Bermuda," sales volume in this sector has remained low.

On the other hand, liquor store sales volume increased by 3.2%, with a sales value increase of 1.2%, and sales of liquor rose by 14.8% compared to November 2019.

The knitwear hub of India, Tiruppur, is showing signs of recovery after facing the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic and the Russia-Ukraine conflict. Despite experiencing a negative growth rate of 24 per cent on average for three months in 2022, the industry witnessed a 2 per cent rise in exports in dollar terms and an 11 per cent rise in Rupee terms in January 2023, indicating a possible upward trend.

The pandemic and the war affected European countries, leading to inflation, high prices of essential commodities, and cautious spending, which had a significant impact on the knitwear industry of Tiruppur. Due to these factors, Europeans were found to wear t-shirts for a longer time before purchasing new ones.

However, there is hope as the industry bounced back to positive sentiment in January 2023, and experts expect to see good business in the coming months. Knitwear exports from Tiruppur in USD terms grew 1.5% at USD 413 million in January 2023, while overall knitwear exports from the country grew by 0.9% at USD 751 million in December 2022 compared to USD 744 million in January 2022.

Tiruppur's knitwear industry is predominantly composed of micro, small, and medium enterprises that depend on orders from Europe and the US. While orders have started to come in from these regions, it is not in significant quantities as in the past. Nevertheless, the 1.5 per cent growth recorded in January is a positive sign that the industry hopes to reflect in the coming months.

In 2022-23, all India knitwear exports were at Rs 53,586 crore as against Rs 29,643 crore from Tiruppur district, which has over 6000 units engaged in knitwear, stitching, dyeing, embroidery, and accounts for more than 70 per cent of knitwear exports in India, employing nearly 5 lakh people.

India’s surge in demand for man-made fibers is driven by the rise in demand for technical and medical textiles and the increased cost of raw materials like cotton. As a result, many weavers and spinners are blending man-made fibers to stay cost-competitive. Man-made fibers, such as viscose and polyester, are flexible, durable, and able to endure high-speed machinery, making them critical to the industry.

Ensuring the availability of quality raw materials at competitive prices is crucial for the industry's sustainability and safeguarding. The supply and demand mechanisms for raw materials must be in equilibrium to create a level playing field, enabling fair competition in the market.

With the world's shift away from China, India has an opportunity to establish itself as a leading player in the global textile industry. However, the country needs to address the challenges facing the industry and promote sustainable growth.

Reports suggest that the reintroduction of import duties on viscose is being considered, potentially increasing the import price of the fiber by up to INR 40 (0.5 USD). This could lead to increased imports of yarn and fabric, job losses, and a decline in exports.

However, to support the industry's growth, the Indian government has introduced initiatives such as the Production Linked Incentive scheme for Man-made Textiles, the National Technical Textile Mission, and the Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products Scheme. However, limited supply of viscose fiber and outdated technology in the weaving industry hinder the sector's potential.

Chile’s statistics agency, the INE, is facing concerns over its calculation of consumer prices. In particular, the cost of clothing has fallen 6.2 per cent in the last four years, while the overall inflation index has increased by almost 30 per cent.

This is notable given that most clothing is imported and the peso has weakened by about 20 per cent over that period. While adding footwear to the calculation helps, Chile still stands in contrast to Mexico and most other countries in the OECD where prices have risen. Despite overhauls of the methodology in 2013 and 2019, the discrepancy remains. This is significant in a country where about half of all Treasury bonds are index-linked.

The INE has highlighted that annual variations have been contained since the last changes in 2019 and that the figures are in line with international levels. The agency also suggested that price cuts during the pandemic to clear stock and competition from stores’ own brands had depressed prices. However, there are concerns that significant errors in the calculation of clothing prices would mis-price index-linked bonds and alter contracts.

Experts have noted that measuring clothing prices is notoriously difficult, but there are signs that the INE may be getting it wrong. The price of men’s clothing has fallen 9.3 per cent since January 2019 and women’s clothing is down 21 per cent, while school uniform prices have gone up 32 per cent.

While progress has been made in terms of measuring clothing prices, it is important for the INE to continue to carefully consider all components of the CPI to ensure that the best formula possible is used to measure inflation.

H&M Group recently took part in a roundtable discussion organized by the UNFCCC Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action in Bangladesh.

The aim of the event was to discuss the need for policy reforms in the renewable energy market, with a particular focus on Power Purchase Agreements and green tariffs.

A range of stakeholders, including fashion brands, policymakers, renewable energy developers, and financial institutions, were in attendance to identify key actions necessary for the industry's transition to renewable alternatives.

The roundtable's primary objective was to advance policies that enable the industry to procure renewable energy. The participants agreed that Power Purchase Agreements could play a crucial role in the industry's green transformation by helping suppliers remain resilient and local communities benefit from the development. Despite acknowledging the challenges that lie ahead, the participants agreed that proactive collaboration among all stakeholders is essential to transform the energy market in Bangladesh.

H&M Group's participation in the roundtable reflects its commitment to reducing its absolute emissions by 56% by 2030, sourcing 100% renewable electricity to power its operations and supply chain. The company also seeks to drive the agenda forward for new frameworks enabling additional renewable electricity into the grids. By collaborating with others in the fashion industry, H&M hopes to be part of the solution to climate change.

The next UN Climate Change Conference (COP28) will provide an opportunity for public and private sectors from all industries to report on their progress towards their climate ambitions.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), the European Union's (EU) apparel imports from Bangladesh grew by 15.04 per cent in July-January of fiscal year 2022-23, reaching $13.73 billion, up from $11.94 billion in the same period of the previous year.

Among major EU countries, Germany remained the largest market, with a slight growth of only 0.83 per cent. Spain and France showed an increase of 18.18 per cent and 18.74 per cent, respectively. Italy, Austria, the Netherlands, and Sweden also experienced growth, with rates of 57.50 per cent, 32.93 per cent, 32.41 per cent, and 23.28 per cent, respectively, while Poland's export fell by 17.79 per cent year-over-year during the mentioned period.

On the other hand, Bangladesh's export of Ready-Made Garments (RMG) to the US decreased by 1.98 per cent compared to the same period in the previous fiscal year.

However, the country's export to the UK and Canada grew by 14.47 per cent and 19.25 per cent, respectively. Meanwhile, the export to non-traditional markets increased from $3.67 billion to $4.89 billion during the mentioned period, with Japan being the largest market, reaching $920.26 million with a YoY growth of 45.92 per cent.

Other non-traditional markets with high growth included Malaysia (92.77 per cent), Mexico (42.70 per cent), India (58 per cent), Brazil (64.14 per cent), and South Korea (37.39 per cent), according to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

The 38th World Fashion Convention is set to take place in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and is jointly organised by the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the Sewn Products Equipment and Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA), with support from the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA).

This marks the first time in 20 years that the IAF convention will be held in North America, and industry representatives are invited to attend from October 23-25, 2023. The theme of the convention is ‘Our Industry in Transition: Building Stronger, Smarter, and More Sustainable Supply Chains’, as stated in a joint press release by IAF and SPESA.

The aim of the convention is to bring together a diverse range of stakeholders from the global supply chain, including US, Canadian, and European brands; manufacturers from (Latin) America, Europe, Africa, and Asia; technology and solution providers; educators; and policy makers. The event is expected to host over 300 delegates from more than 20 countries.

The convention will be held at the Bellevue hotel in Philadelphia and features a 1.5-day conference, an off-site festive dinner, a business matchmaking activity, and the IAF Golf Tournament.

The overall goal of the convention is to address the industry's current challenges and opportunities, with a particular focus on strengthening supply chains to ensure they are smarter and more sustainable.

Columbia Sportswear takes the lead in size inclusivity in the fashion industry with its extended sizing collection, offered at price parity for the first time.

Columbia has been selling extended sizing for men and women for over 20 years, but their newest collection for spring 2023 will be the first offered at price parity. All sizes from XS-3XL will be sold for the same price and in the same section.

Columbia has seen significant demand for extended sizing. The outdoor community has become more vocal about their demand for inclusive sizing, and Columbia has responded by working with dozens of plus-size athletes and organizations to advise their product design and merchandising teams.

Columbia’s efforts have paid off, with the company seeing record revenue in the last three months, growing 11 per cent from the previous quarter to reach $3.5 billion.

Denim market growth has always been a steady even in the most fluctuating of global economies. Reason: it is a fundamental component of the casual wardrobe and popular across all social and economic segments for men, women and children. With casual dressing becoming the norm in a post-pandemic world, many analysts feel denim will see stronger-than-ever growth in coming years.

Recent forecast by Research and Markets says, the global market for jeans will reach $87.4 billion by 2027 from $63.5 billion in 2020, growing at a CAGR of 4.7 per cent in this period. Be it the US and Canadian markets, Europe or even recovering China, the popularity of fashion denims made with high-tech machinery has propelled it into the luxury segment from being considered as staple wardrobe casual wear earlier.

Versatile on trend portfolio of big players

Leading players in the global denim apparel market are now focusing on growth through new product launches, partnerships, mergers or acquisitions and increasing their geographical footprint. Big names such as Levi Strauss, Gap, VF Corporation, H&M, PVH Corp, Kering, OTB Group, LVMH, True Religion, Ralph Lauren Corporation and Pepe Jeans among others are now improving manufacturing processes while costs, product pricing, and various trends in different regions and countries is being researched in the global denim market.

Companies are now considering various new parameters such as stretch, durability, embellishments, on-trend style, and wearability to provide customized solutions to customers. Regular media coverage of various catwalk fashion shows and celebrity endorsements are attracting customers like magnets in the luxury segment.

Shifting sourcing destinations

As per Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) statistics, the US recorded the highest levels of denim apparel imports in first quarter of 2022, reaching $965.32 million, up 37.55 per cent from previous year. Once dominated strongly by China and Mexico, US denim apparel sourcing is slowly shifting to other low-cost manufacturing countries such as Bangladesh, Pakistan, Egypt and Vietnam. The denim jeans market is segmented into fitting type, price point, end user, distribution channel, and region. Further segregation takes place in the fitting type with categories such as slim fit, regular fit, skinny fit, relaxed fit, and others. By price point, it is segregated into mass and premium whereas the end-user segment has men, women, and children. The distribution channels include hypermarkets and supermarkets, convenience clothing stores, specialty stores, and online sales channels.

Region-wise distribution is huge as the market is analyzed differently across North America (the US, Canada, and Mexico), Europe (Germany, UK, France, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands and the rest of Europe), Asia-Pacific (China, Japan, India, Australia, South Korea and Rest of Asia-Pacific), and LAMEA (Brazil, Argentina, South Africa, Middle East and the rest of the world.

The Cotton Council International (CCI) and Cotton Incorporated’s 2021 Global Denim Survey conducted in the US, the UK, Germany, Spain, the Netherlands, France, Italy, India, Mexico, and China revealed most popular silhouettes around the globe are regular (37 per cent), slim (34 per cent), straight (33 per cent), skinny (31 per cent), and relaxed (27 per cent).

India presents a fragmented market

India’s domestic denim market has been maintaining an average CAGR of 8 to 9 per cent for a few years and is expected to reach Rs 91,894 crore by 2028. However, denim apparel production in India remains fragmented with only 20-30 per cent of denim apparel manufactured in the organized units. Most denim production activities are concentrated in Delhi-NCR, Mumbai, Bangalore and Ahmedabad. Arvind Mills remains the largest denim manufacturer in India and leads the export markets.

As a versatile fabric that has and will endure many storms, studies show that in spite of the expected recession in 2023, the denim market will continue to grow, even as style trends may change. The global denim market will stride ahead in the next five years as fashionable yet casual dressing popularity even more so in the post-Covid years of comfort and wearability is the USP of most brads.