Lectra held a fashion event in France on April 10 and11, 2019. More than 75 industry insiders and market experts from 14 countries convened for two days to examine how the digital age is bringing about major shifts in consumer behavior. The keynotes, live demonstrations, and customer testimonials highlighted the importance of process digitization and data analysis for meeting new consumer needs.

Beyond understanding the new fashion consumer, the event stressed on the importance of leveraging data to deliver customer-centric services and products. Attendees were treated to a live demo of Fashion On Demand by Lectra, the industry’s first end-to-end personalization solution. They saw how a data-driven, automated on-demand production process from order reception to final cutting stages could deliver garments customized according to consumers’ specific demands. With Fashion On Demand by Lectra companies can increase production output, achieve the perfect fit, reduce cost of consumables, save time on preparing orders and minimize human errors.

For companies that breathe life into wardrobes, car interiors, furniture and more, Lectra crafts premium technologies that facilitate the digital transformation of their industry. Lectra’s offer empowers brands manufacturers and retailers, from design to production. Founded in 1973, Lectra has 32 subsidiaries across the globe, serving customers in over 100 countries.

Apparel exports from India are expected to make a recovery in the current fiscal year. The declining trend witnessed in the last two years may be reversed. So far there were intense competitive pressures from nations having a cost advantage over India. This constrained the overall momentum of the apparel export sector in India. But now changes are taking place in the global market. Both Bangladesh and Vietnam are now seeing some sort of slowdown. Apart from price differential, buyers are now also looking at various other factors including compliance, diversity and stability. Considering all these factors, India is gradually gaining an edge over them.

The domestic apparel market is expected to continue its growth trajectory. Having grown at a CAGR of 13.8 per cent from fiscal 2010 to fiscal 2018, the domestic market is likely to grow at a CAGR of around 12 per cent in the coming years, driven by the growth in the economy leading to a rise in disposable income as also other favorable macro-economic factors.

Presence in the niche and value-added product segments, together with access to an established client base, has helped export-based companies to maintain revenue growth. Favorable currency movements and a healthy growth in revenues have facilitated an improvement in margins.

India’s cotton imports are likely to rise by 80 per cent this crop year. The major reason is unavailability of the fiber with farmers and stockists. India is the top global producer of cotton. Even so, textile mills are importing raw cotton this year, due to short supply of quality material. Drought in major growing states of Maharashtra, Telangana, Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh has resulted in lower output this year. Over and above, the quality of late picked crop is poor due to the paucity of moisture in the field. This poor quality cotton cannot be used by spinning mills. Farmers uprooted their cotton plants in 70 per cent to 80 per cent of the sown area due to scarcity of water, ahead of the crucial third and fourth pickings. The quality started deteriorating since the second round of picking in early February.

Rising prices of Indian cotton have made exports uncompetitive. India’s exports are estimated to decline to 4.7 million bales in 2018-19 from 6.9 million last year. Though India has a smaller crop size this year, the supply position is very comfortable with a big ending stock of four million bales for the next season. Thanks to a big opening stock, smaller exports and large imports, the production deficit is well covered.

Bangladesh is devising a master plan to boost productivity at its apparel factories. The master plan is expected to improve efficiency at factories, which in turn is expected to increase the competitiveness of Bangladesh’s factories – particularly in the apparel sector – at the international market. Eventually, this is expected to create a robust export growth. The long-term plan is aimed at boosting productivity not only at apparel factories but also at the other manufacturing and processing sectors in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh’s apparel sector occupies around 83 per cent of the country’s export basket. Apparel manufacturers recently raised workers wages in Bangladesh. This is one sector they have identified that can cover up the additional costs and bring in profits. This will be even more effective if Bangladesh manages to properly brand its products in the apparel market.

One key aspect where there is room for improvement is the efficiency of workers. The efficiency level of workers in Bangladesh is between 40 per cent and 45 per cent – much lower compared to competing countries like Vietnam and Sri Lanka. Other problems stem from infrastructure, energy and power and going up to the issue of fair pricing from buyers abroad.

Shima Seiki makes possible knitting solutions on yarns previously deemed impossible to knit, or what was never even considered for knitting. The computerised knitting machine manufacturer has disrupted the conventional perception of knitting through its arsenal of patented knitting techniques combined with cutting edge hardware and software. Its latest technological contributions are aimed at promoting knitted applications in various fields ranging from fashion, sports, shoes and accessories to medical, automotive, aeronautical and other wearable and industrial textile applications.

Shima Seiki has even developed a special device for unwinding spools of technical yarn to ease yarn feed for such difficult-to-handle material. Wholegarment knitting maximises the benefits of shaped knitting even further by expanding that potential to three dimensions. Wholegarment knitting is capable of producing knitted items in their entirety on the machine and allows 3D forms and tubing to be produced without sewing. Elimination of sewing allows for faster turnarounds and high potential for on-demand knitting.

In addition to machine technology the latest version of Shima Seiki’s SDS-ONE APEX series 3D design system is an equally important factor in modern day knit production. Flexible knit manufacturing begins with flexible design, and the APEX series is designed to offer a fully comprehensive set of tools and functions, as well as the capability for ultra-realistic simulation that realises virtual sampling.

Texprocess will be held in Germany, May 14 to 17, 2019. This is a trade fair for processing textiles and flexible materials. Exhibitors will present latest machinery, systems, processes and services for manufacturing garments as well as textile and flexible materials.

The Texprocess forum will offer a wide range of topics and technical impetus for textile processors, users and retailers. On May 14, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies will investigate the impact of digitisation in the garment and textile processing industry and the extent to which the changes triggered by Industrie 4.0 are already part of the value chain. The advancing digitisation of the entire value chain as well as the constantly increasing automation and robotization in processing textiles and flexible materials will also be the main topic at the VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies’ press conference at Texprocess on May 15. Other topics are 3D product development, networks of cutting, handling and software, predictive maintenance, augmented reality as well as new business models supported by big data and artificial intelligence. Companies will provide an up-to-date overview of the next steps in Industrie 4.0 developments in sewing and garment technology as well as in machines for processing technical textiles.

Levi Strauss has undertaken a new denim recycling initiative with the ‘Blue Jeans Go Green’ program. Any type of denim, including scraps or non-jean items like jackets, is eligible for recycling. Blends are, too—though the fabric does need to contain at least 90 per cent cotton. To date, the Blue Jeans Go Green program has recycled more than 2.5 million pieces of denim, to create almost five million square feet of insulation. The denim insulation developed through the program isn’t for sale, but given to charity partners for use in schools and libraries.

The Blue Jeans Go Green initiative, launched in 2006, lets consumers bring denim clothing—from any brand and in any condition—to dedicated recycling bins at partner retailers. The initiative is a key feature for the strategy Levi’s has to hit its sustainability benchmarks. The company hopes to hit major goals around climate impact, chemical applications, and water use, and alter its sourcing, design and manufacturing processes to plan for future circularity. Levi’s also offers consumers several opportunities to extend the life of their denim, in whatever way they can. The brand refashions archive-quality denim for resale in select stores, and at in-store tailor shops Levi’s professionals can repair used garments that might otherwise be wasted.

A breakout session that updates delegates on Higg Index progress and other new developments will feature at the upcoming Planet Textiles summit in Barcelona. The Higg panel is just one part of a full day’s schedule which focuses on the practicalities of innovation and sustainability in the textile supply chain. With many textile industry tools now in an advanced stage of development to allow apparel brands and retailers to improve supply chain transparency, and to measure their overall environmental impact, the Higg session will be extremely timely and promises to bring new insight for brands, textile mills and suppliers right through the supply chain.

As a part of the ‘Pitch for the Planet’ session run by Fashion for Good at this year’s event, that details new, cutting edge textile innovations that have yet to scale, Abishek Bansal from Arvind Mills will feature in conversation with Fashion for Good investment manager Tanvi Karambelkar about how the Indian textile conglomerate has helped and encouraged innovators to scale-up technology and how it can be integrated into a major textile operation such as Arvind. Also presented will be an innovation that uses minimal chemistry to finish textiles, and how it can contribute to a world where the discharge of potentially hazardous substances from textile wet processing mills can be minimised – and preferably avoided altogether.

Cone Denim will partner with garment finishing technology company Jeanologia on a sustainable denim collection for fall 2020. The collaboration brings together two leaders in denim that are aligned on environmental stewardship. The collection will apply Cone’s water-conscious laser-washing techniques to a number of Cone’s proprietary low-impact fabrics. The partnership is expected to be a compelling and relevant design resource for Cone’s brand partners and serve as a great source of inspiration for designers looking for sustainable options.

Cone selected specific fabrics that are a key part of its fall 2020 collection but they also qualify well for Jeanologia’s laser washing technologies. These washes promote minimal amount of water, energy and chemicals. Each garment will be noted with a wash score. Cone’s consciously-milled denim provides an ideal base for Jeanologia’s low-impact laser washing techniques. The partnership is a perfect marriage of innovative technologies.

Cone, an iconic, 128-year-old denim mill, will also debut two new product capsules for fall 2020. Modern Retro will focus on utilizing a blend of post-consumer recycled cotton, wood pulp-derived Tencel fabric, and SGene with Repreve stretch technology, made from recycled polyester. Favorite is an unisex capsule and comfort, softness, performance and a brilliant indigo color are its hallmarks. The line features a variety of washes and three stretch levels (high, medium and lightweight rigid).

Weather-related changes have long impacted retail businesses across the world. Besides affecting supply chain, these changes also impact sourcing patterns of retailers. However, brands across the world are adopting sustainable practices to minimise the impact of climate change on their operations. A 2017 study by Cone Communications indicates 63 per cent of Americans are opting for businesses that driving social and environmental change in the absence of government regulation. Additionally, consumers are shifting their shopping habits with rentals emerging as an alternative to owning goods.

Focus on renewable and efficient energy

According to a 2018 report by Quantis, the apparel and footwear industries together account for an estimated 8 per cent of global climate impacts. Dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation and fiber production life cycles are the three main drivers of the industry's global pollution. Most of these impacts are a direct result of apparel's reliance on hard coal and natural gas to generate electricity and heat. The most effective way to combat effects of climate change is to focus on renewable and efficient energy across the supply chain. A brand that opts for 60 per cent renewable energy by 2030 would be able to reduce the impact of climate change by 39 per cent. Changing their business models can also impact the industry’s job market by creating 380 million new jobs by 2030.

Transparency increases, rental market grows

Climate change is creating conscious consumers who now prefer to buy their products from environmentally friendly brands. A Forrestor report indicates, over half of US shoppers consider a company's values when making a purchase.

Avedis Seferian, CEO of Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) notes a growth in the number of businesses looking to certify factories. Currently, 2,700 factories have a WRAP certificate, with close to 2.5 million employees. The growing interest in the environment is also shifting the brand’s approach to certifications and social responsibility.

Retailers and brands are incorporating sustainability into quarterly metrics and making this information available on environmental practices front-and-center for shoppers. Companies are adopting the concept of circular economy in their operations. A Gartner L2 report indicates, the number of businesses investing in circular economy has increased from 18 to 28 per cent in 2017.

Brands are also facilitating apparel rentals. Direct-to-consumer brands Fernish and Feather have built business models around furniture subscription services, and now larger retailers, such as Ikea are offering similar options. Outdoor retailers have also built sustainability into their businesses: The North Face had unveiled its Renewed line, which features damaged and refurbished items, and REI last week announced an expansion to its gear rental services. However, these efforts are not enough sustainability has become a basic expectation for consumers. Also, brands need to be transparent in their adoption of sustainability initiatives as simple greenwashing may easily be exposed.