"One of the most disastrous impacts of the fashion industry on the environment is the enormous amount of water needed to grow raw materials like cotton. Brands require around four years of drinking water on an average to make one cotton T-shirt. Additionally, the chemicals sprayed on cotton crops, electricity power in the garment factories, the fossil fuel emissions from transportation of clothing across the seas, railway and road networks and by air to high street stores add to the growing pollution by the fashion industry."

One of the most disastrous impacts of the fashion industry on the environment is the enormous amount of water needed to grow raw materials like cotton. Brands require around four years of drinking water on an average to make one cotton T-shirt. Additionally, the chemicals sprayed on cotton crops, electricity power in the garment factories, the fossil fuel emissions from transportation of clothing across the seas, railway and road networks and by air to high street stores add to the growing pollution by the fashion industry.

As per a 2017 report from the Ellen MacArthurFoundation, an environmental advocacy organisation set up by MacArthur, an equivalent of one truck of textiles is land filled or burned every second, .An estimated €443 billion is wasted every year on clothing that is barely worn. The report further predicts that the fashion industry will consume more than a quarter of the world’s annual carbon budget by 2050.

Increasing garment life through recycling

To deal with this, the British parliament recently recommended a 1per cent tax on each garment to stop companies from over-producing. However, the recommendation was rejected last month. The report presented a vision of a new system based on circular economy principles that offers benefits to the economy, society and the environment.

As per this vision, designers will henceforth design clothes differently. These clothes will not only be worn longer but also rented, resold and reused much more often. Materials will be recycled, either for making new clothes or using as insulation, mattress stuffing or wipe cloths. The report has been endorsed by some big fashion brands including Nike, C&A, and H&M.

Using sustainable materials

The MacArthur Foundation report also recommends less synthetic materials that do not leak microfibres into the existing water systems. Some of the leading designers are already using such sustainable or recycled materials in their collections. These include reputed brands like ASOS, Marks & Spencer, Burberry, etc. Fast fashion brand Zara recently announced by 2025 all its collections will be made from 100 per cent sustainable fabrics by 2025. These also include the collections of its partner brands, including Zara Home, Massimo Dutti and Pull&Bear, etc.

The new flagship boutique of English fashion designer Stella McCarthy in London’s Old Bond Street stocks biodegradable mannequins to display her handmade organic cotton collection. On the other hand, Patagonia sells bags that prevent microfibres from being released into waste water streams when synthetic clothes are washed in a machine.

Though these efforts are praiseworthy, it is actually reduction in the volume of clothing produced that holds the key to making the industry more sustainable. The efforts of H&M on this front are definitely noteworthy. The brand takes back old clothes through its Garment Collecting Recycling Programme. In 2018 alone, they collected 20,649 tonne of clothing. The brand recently partnered with the second-hand online marketplace Sellpy, for selling second-hand clothing on their own website. The project will be trialed on the Swedish website of its subsidiary clothing chain and Other Stories. Hope, other brands take a leaf from this.

Violeta Andic, Director of the plus-size Violeta label of the Spanish clothing brand Mango, and its Operations Chief Carlos Costa are stepping down from their roles. In charge of the Violeta label since its launch in 2013, Andic spent the past 12 years at the Spanish fashion brand, founded in 1984 by her father Nahman Andic and her uncle Isak Andic, who currently holds the role of chairman. Before taking the helm of Violeta, the executive was responsible for special collections between 2008 and 2013. Andic will be replaced by Laura San Martin, currently in charge of the brand’s outlet stores and has been with the company for more than 15 years.

Meanwhile, Carlos Costa, director of operations and strategy since 2013, is leaving Mango to focus on a personal project. He is also a member of the Mango board of directors, and before joining the clothing label he led the Barcelona office of Boston Consulting Group. His responsibilities as head of operations at Mango included overseeing the areas of logistics, imports and exports, IT systems, human resources, corporate social responsibility and operational strategy. Mango has yet to announce his effective departure date and replacement.

Many Chinese and Bangladeshi textile companies have collaborated for this year’s Texworld USA edition. One such collaboration including that of Chinese Nantong Fenglan Textile Co with the Bangladesh company Farseeing Knit Composite. While Li presented his own textiles, Taher brought a number of T-shirts and other garments to the exhibition booth.

Running his company in Nantong city in east China's Jiangsu province, Li has formed partnerships with two Bangladeshi textile plants starting from 2012 to better explore international opportunities, and Taher's company was one of them.

Farseeing Knit Composite imports around 95 percent raw materials from China to meet the demand for his garment plants. This partnership further strengthened the both the companies’ position in the market as a U.S. customer of Nantong Feglan Textile placed an order of 6,600 pieces on site.

Global trade languished for a seventh straight month in May, says the CPB World Trade Monitor. The tariff battle between the US and China is heightening uncertainty and slowing growth in Europe and elsewhere in Asia. The reduction of trade between the two countries has damaged confidence and companies worldwide are wary. Other problems include: a surge in oil prices. Trade was flat in the three months through May, compared with the previous three-month stretch, after six consecutive months of declines. The overall index stood at 124.5 in May, a 0.3 per cent rise from a month earlier, when it fell 0.6 per cent. The latest reading was 0.4 per cent lower than in May 2018. Global markets remain vulnerable to shocks in confidence or sentiment this year.

China’s trade imports and exports are both below 2018 peak levels. The International Monetary Fund has further reduced its global growth outlook, already the lowest since the financial crisis, and suggested that policy missteps on issues such as trade could derail a projected rebound. The IMF also slashed expectations for growth in the global volume of trade in goods and services, reducing its estimate by 0.9 points.

Switzerland-based Steiger’s Vega 3.130 is a compact flat knitting machine for technical textiles. It can be equipped with warp and weft insertion for inlay applications involving high-performance yarns. It has a specific cam-box for semi-rigid yarns, as well as adapted sinker kinetics. The distance between the needle-beds can be specifically adjusted and set and other key features include a special take-down for 3D products, a new system of clamp and scissors that can cut yarns like Kevlar, and a selectable carriage inversion ramp for optimised production. The machine can also be supplied in a special format to process carbon fiber preforms for use in automotive, aerospace and industrial composite applications. Steiger has also launched a new app, which will allow, for example, a Steiger machine user in Brazil to live link to a Steiger technical expert in Europe for assistance.

The company launched the Stitch Lab in 2017, where experts in knitting and programming work together with clients on developing their future applications. In the Stitch Lab Steiger develops 3D articles for knitwear, for medical applications and for composite materials. The Vega 3.130 is a product of the Stitch Lab.

Steiger, based in Switzerland, is part of the Cixing Group, the world’s largest manufacturer of flat knitting machines.

In the first six months of 2019, Turkey’s textile and raw material exports dropped by 5.8 per cent. Textile exports to Italy decreased 7.5 per cent compared to the same period previous year. Exports to Germany were down 3.8 per cent. On the whole, exports to the 28 EU countries fell 9.2 per cent. Italy is Turkey’s largest importer followed by Germany.

From January to June, Turkey’s exports of cotton woven fabrics decreased 11.2 per cent. Yarn was the second most important product group in this period with a share of 18.6 per cent. Yarns from synthetic manmade filament fibers had a share of 42.3 per cent in total yarn exports. Knitted fabric exports fell 1.9 per cent. Export of knitted fabrics containing elastometric and rubber yarn decreased by 8.3 per cent. In the first half of the year, fiber exports rose by 6.8 per cent. Synthetic manmade fibers accounted for 62 per cent of total fiber exports. Export of these fibers increased by 10.8 per cent.

The country’s garment exports decreased one per cent. The sector’s share in Turkey’s total exports is 9.9 per cent. In the first half of the year, the top three countries with the highest exports were Germany, Spain and the UK.

Zara plans to make greater efforts to become fully sustainable. This means transitioning to 100 per cent sustainable fabrics by 2025. Around 80 per cent of the energy consumed in Zara’s headquarters, factories and stores will come from renewable sources. Zara is bent on eliminating landfill waste. By 2023, Zara’s wood-pulp-derived viscose will not come from endangered forests.

Zara produces an average of 500 new designs a week and 20,000 designs each year. Zara is pushing into new markets right now, expanding into India and expanding its online presence globally. Among all of Zara’s announcements — from reducing landfill waste to using renewable energy — the switch to lower impact materials and removing hazardous chemicals from the supply chain is the most significant shift, by far.

Fast fashion is a business model built around disposable consumption and limitless growth. The bulk of fashion’s environmental impact happens in the manufacturing phase, in making new textiles and materials that become clothing and shoes. Zara is responding to consumers’ growing concern about sustainability and social issues. Consumers are more informed than ever about what’s going on in the world, and they don’t want to feel like they’re harming the planet when they buy fashion. Sustainability has become a way for a brand to differentiate itself.

The ongoing India Trend Fair is in Japan from July 24 to 26, 2019 aims to promote India’s businesses in Japan and give them a platform from which to grow their retail network in Japan. The fair focuses on accessories, jewelry, handicrafts, and home ware and around 200 Indian companies are taking part. This includes categories such as denim, finished garments, accessories, footwear, cushions, bed linens, and carpets. Buyers include manufacturers, wholesalers, trading companies, importers, select and specialist shops, department stores, volume and online retailers etc. This is an exclusive business matching event, which gives exporters an opportunity to showcase their products and supply value added products with a special emphasis on products designed to suit Japanese fashion trends and requirements.

The event is hosted by the Japan India Industry Promotion Association, a non-profit that works to promote trade between India and Japan. It collects and analyses information on Japanese and Indian industrial markets.

Japan is a sophisticated market, leaning towards small-lot and short cycle delivery of supply. Consumption is diversified and quality expectations are very high. High quality and expensive Indian garments are gaining popularity in Japan. Customers like selecting garments that have a different character when compared with dresses and kimono worn at such occasions as weddings and parties.

India’s exports of leather and footwear in the last fiscal year were 0.85 per cent lower than the previous year’s. This is the third year in the last five years when the growth rate of leather and footwear industry has fallen. One reason is falling demand for leather in the apparel and footwear industries of Europe and China. Another reason is the downward trend of using leather made apparels in the fashion industry. Also synthetic footwear has emerged as an alternative to leather products. Due to awareness about global warming and better scope of designs in synthetic products, many countries, including China, have aggressively changed their preferences from leather to synthetic.

However, exports of footwear can still find hope as the demand for footwear, the value-added product of leather, is still prominent. Indian leather industry has many competitive advantages as the country has an abundant source of raw materials.

Leather is among the top ten foreign exchange earners for the country. Around 12.9 per cent of the world’s leather production of hides and skins, and nine per cent of the global footwear production, takes place in India. Twenty per cent of the world’s cattle and buffalo, and 11 per cent of the world’s goat and sheep population, are found in India.

Chinese companies can buy US cotton, corn, sorghum and pork without having to pay the 25 per cent retaliatory duty. The move follows the approval of some three million tons of US soybeans for purchase with tariff waivers. There could be a second round of exemptions depending on how the trade talks progress.

Some companies are willing to buy US farm products in line with domestic demand and their purchases are made on their own decisions. Even with tariffs in place, the US sold about 64,000 tons of cotton in May. Were it not for the tariffs, the US could have been in a strong position to cater to the demand.

The US cotton industry enjoyed a 46 per cent share of all imports going into China. But that changed when China issued a 25 per cent tariff on US cotton in retaliation for tariffs placed on Chinese goods by the US. However China is still seen as a key market for US cotton and the US will promote the benefits of its cotton. Chinese mills like US cotton for its quality, its consistency and its low contamination. China is the US’ most efficient market to ship to in the world so it keeps costs down.