Peter Cowgill, Executive Chairman, JD Sports Fashion resigned from his post in his company after the multinational retailer announced its plan to separate the roles of Chief Executive Officer and Officer. Currently, Cowgill holds the post.

While the company has been under pressure for some time to do just that, the departure is clearly one that hadn’t been fully planned out as it doesn’t have permanent replacements waiting in the wings. Instead, non-executive directors Helen Ashton and Kath Smith will take on the role of interim chair and interim CEO, respectively.

The move comes as a result of an ongoing review of the firm’s internal governance. But the shock nature of the announcement was clearly not welcomed by some as the firm’s share price dropped over 6 per cent in late trading before the London Stock Exchange closed for the day.

The Italian company with over 60 years of experience, specialized in the production of synthetic warp-knitted fabrics for the technical industrial world, and stretch and circular fabrics for the world of clothing, Sitip will present its latest range of fabrics at the upcoming Techtextil exhibition.

Participating in a special Forum about innovative fabrics organized by the Agency ICE, promoting abroad the Italian companies and their internationalization, as examples of the latest developments Sitip will showcase its latest Native Sustainable Textiles collection. The range will demonstrate the technology applied to fabrics made with recycled yarns and low-environmental-impact chemicals with reduced consumption of natural resources:

Industry experts from all over the world meet every two years at Techtextil, the trade fair about the new developments in technical textiles, functional apparel fabrics and nonwovens offered by companies from all over the world. Techtextil offers exhibitors and visitors an insight into the latest developments in the industry, as well as additional technical inspiration.

Bangladesh recently depreciated the value of Taka for the third time in the view of the greenback in May. As per an Apparel Resources report, the value of Taka was depreciated by 0.40, re-fixing the local currency’s exchange rate against the US dollar at Taka 87.90.

Reports by the media claim, the concerned people have observed the disruption in the global supply chain caused by the Ukraine-Russia war in February.

The war led to a rise shipment costs and in turn led to increased demand for the US dollar even as prices of all kinds of commodities in the global market were going up owing to increasing demand all over the world in the wake of improvement in the pandemic situation.

As a result, like in many countries across the world, local currency of Bangladesh also started to lose value against the greenback.

Around 2,200 international exhibitors have already registered for the summer special edition of Heimtextil 2023. To be held from June21-24, 2022 in Frankfurt, Germany, international trade fair for home and contract textiles, Heimtextil will offer insights on knowledge transfer, networking and inspiration on the sustainability topic.

Due to the current challenges, the sustainability theme will run through all sectors of the textile value chain, triggering processes and releasing enormous innovative power in the process. At the Heimtextil Summer Special, the measures and offers relating to sustainability will be brought to life. The trends area in Hall 4.0 under the motto ‘Next Horizons’willinspire latest color trends and materials besides highlight sustainable themes.

Based on the Material Manifesto, local resources, environmentally friendly or borrowed materials will be used for the stand design. The Green Village (Hall 3.0, Stand D51) will help track official labels and certificates. Label providers and certifiers will provide exhibitors and interested trade visitors with answers to their questions and up-to-date information on current developments.

The online Green Directory will showcase all suppliers of sustainably produced textiles. The Green Tours will offer an opportunity to be guided directly to selected sustainably producing companies and to learn more about their products.

There will also be numerous specialist lectures, such as at the Heimtextil Conference: Sleep & More (Hall 3.0, Stand D 041). Here, high-calibre experts will provide valuable orientation for decision-makers in the hotel industry and hospitality trends will be examined from the point of view of sustainability and the circular economy.

Despite an exceptionally high order backlog and sustained strong demand, Rieter faced supply chain bottlenecks, repercussions of the COVID lockdown in China and significant increases in material and transportation costs in the first half of 2022. The company’s costs also increased due to its takeover of the automatic winding business as of April 1, 2022.

Rieter expects sales to rise significantly in the first half of 2022 compared to the prior-year period. It anticipates a loss at the EBIT and net result level in the first half of 2022.

Rieter is implementing several measures to minimize the impact of the supply chain bottlenecks, the COVID lockdown in China and the cost increases. The implemented price increases have a delayed effect, particularly in the machinery business. The integration of the automatic winding business is proceeding according to plan.

As soon as the situation in the sourcing markets normalizes, Rieter will benefit from the exceptionally high order backlog and the considerably improved market position as a result of the takeover of the automatic winding business as well as Accotex and Temco

A member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, ACG Nyström, is set to participate in the upcoming Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt Germany from June 21-24. The company will demonstrate the benefits of automated Talon 75 multi-ply cutter by Eastman at the exhibition. A service provider to textile machinery and software manufacturers, ACG Nystrom recently signed an agreement with Eastman Machine Company to serve as an important center to sell the company’s imported equipment, parts and consumables. The agreement allows the company to shorten lead times and speed up deliveries.

The two companies have jointly installed over 3,000 automated cutting systems worldwide and distributed hundreds of thousands of manual cutting machines. Capable of cutting up to 7.5cm of compressed materials, the Talon 75 multi-ply cutter is automatically pulls the amassed material plies from the spreading table to a modular, bristle-block conveyor bed for reciprocating knife cutting of patterns. The cutter offers industrial strength solution through precise system operations with state-of-the-art motion control communications.

Creating new opportunities for collaboration

Engineered to meet the demands of Industry 4.0, Eastman’s Talon multi-ply cutting systems are equipped with the latest condition-based predictive maintenance technology. These machines use state-of-the-art motors and amplifiers to notify operators of any changes in their critical components. Eastman will also display its ES-960 model which is a material spreader that can spread the machines height upto 20 cm.

“We are excited to explore the potential of this partnership to European buyers,” says Elizabeth McGruder, Vice President-Sales and Marketing, Eastman. “The partnership will enable ACG agencies to sell the extensive product range of Eastman to Scandinavian and Baltic customers and create new opportunities for the two companies to work together,” he adds.

Solutions for localizing production

Solutions conforming to the growing need for more localized and automated textile production will be showcased at the upcoming Texprocess, Techtextil and Heimtextil shows scheduled in Frankfurt from June 21-24, 2022. The co-existence of all three shows together gives TMAS members an opportunity to showcase complete supply chain solutions, adds Therese Premier Andersson, Secretary General, TMAS.

At Texprocess ACG Nyström and Eastman will exhibit at stand E52 in Hall 8 while Eton Systems, imogo and Svegea will exhibit at stand F41 in Hall. Coloreel will jointly exhibit with embroidery machine maker Tajima at stand H44 in Hall 8 while. Eltex will present its offering at Techtextil in Hall 12, at stand E19 and ACG Kinna will participate in Heimtextil at stand E27.

The price rise to Rs 100,000 for a single cotton candy is bleeding the entire textile chain with export demand dwindling and production curtailed at every level. The price rise is affecting not just small units but also big players. What’s more abolition of import duty on cotton has not provided any respite to the ailing sector.

Unable to to match retail rates with high cotton prices, retailers are seeking government invention to curb the reckless rise in India’s cotton prices. Chintan Thaker, President, Welspun Group points out, despite price rise, big companies like Welspun are being compelled to curtail production in order to fulfill long-term orders of international clients. The company’s units in Gujarat are currently running at 60 per cent capacity. They are likely to face further production cut if the situation prevails for long, Thaker warns.

Gujarat denim makers balance price rise with production cut

Similarly, not being able to balance raw material price hike with finished products, denim manufacturers in Gujarat have cut production by up to 50 per cent, notes Ashish Shah, Managing Director, Aarvee Denims and Exports. Most affected by the current inflation in cotton prices are spinning units whose cotton procurement has declined almost 50 per cent, claims Gautam Dhamsania, Secretary, Spinners Association of Gujarat (SAG). Of the 120 spinning mills currently operating in Gujarat, five-six have closed operations and another six have switched to manufacturing polyester and viscose yarns. The remaining are working with limited capacity.

Limit cotton stocks with traders

Saurin Parikh, President, SAG opines, future trading on commodity exchanges coupled with stock piling by a handful of MNCs is responsible for the current unrealistic cotton price hike. He urged the government to limit cotton stocks with traders to curtail prices. Gujarat spinners mostly purchase the quantity of cotton for processing from Tamil Nadu. With weavers in Tamil Nadu reducing production by 50 per cent, processing job orders from Gujarat processors have also reduced says Naresh Sharma, President, Ahmedabad Textile Processors’ Association.

Demand for polyester and viscose-knitted yarns from Tamil Nadu has also been declining for the past fortnight, avers Dev Kishan Mangani, Former President, Surat Textile Traders Association (STTA).

Knitwear exporters in Tirupur have urged the government to address the problem immediately. The export cluster has observed strikes to attract the Centre’s attention and seek solutions for the crisis, says Raja M Shanmugham, President, Tirupur Exporters’ Association (TEA). The TEA has also sought financial assistance from leading banks to help garment manufacturers. The association has also sought more liquidity from the government through schemes like ECLGS and additional credit facilities of around 10-20 per cent of existing limit for MSMEs.

Workers’ livelihoods under threat

Experts point out, the price rise in knitwear sector will threaten the livelihood of thousands of workers employed in these units. Knitwear exporters in India are also facing a hike in freight charges due to the Russia-Ukraine war. These factors are likely to prevent exporters from fulfilling over 40 per cent of current export orders, Shanmugham laments. Tirupur-based exporters have urged yarn suppliers to revoke prices and help them deliver summer orders by May-end.

Many felt a later date would have worked better for the just concluded Denim Premiere Vision-Berlin held on May 17 and 18, 2022. However, the two-day event was attended by over 80 exhibitors who showcased their Fall/Winter 2023-24 collections and latest sustainable R&D developments.

Highlights on new design techniques

The show provided an opportunity to exhibitors to focus on the intricacies of their collections and learn new fashion techniques. Visitors could meet the creative heads of brands like Blue of A Kind and Isko and designers like Simona Testucci and Alessio Berto. Owner of Diesel and other OTB Group brands, Blue Jeans Lavanderie launched a chlorine- and potassium-free permanganate solution to achieve in-demand 3D effects on garments seen on the F/W 2022-23 catwalk. The MSLR-compliant laundry is able to achieve more defined ozone finishing on garments through Soko’s Lumina solution.

Karachi-based manufacturer, SM Denim’s booth featured some of the most eye-catching digital prints. The company has launched new cotton-free fabrics, stay black fabrics and Tencel shirting fabrics.

Indigo Textile showcased knit button-down shirts that appear like woven but are comfortable as knits and seamless athleisure and blends with Lurex. Naveena Denim (NDL) presented mechanical stretch denims fabrics while Square Denim showcased fabrics based on ballerina concept with 85 per cent stretch and no growth.

Delving into smart production methods

Companies also delved into smarter denim production methods .Indigo Textile presented a collection focusing on zero-waste concept developed in collaboration with US designer Danielle Elsner. The collection includes three zero-waste patterns for unisex jacket, jeans and kids’ jeans. Made completely from a single fabric derived from hollow synthetic-free yarns promoting temperature regulation.

Wiser Wash launched a new solution Ozone Tumbler. The solutions revealed details to make a machine both worker and planet friendly. The solution also helps eliminate obstacles faced by workers on laundry floor.

Vav Technology emphasized on the uses of its laser machines. The self-refilling gas canister in the machines enables it to continue production unhindered.

Showcasing sustainable fabrics

Spanish denim manufacturer Evolx showcased sustainable fabrics including those made from organic cotton, recycled fibers and zero polyester. The company also presented no-wash fabrics in a unique blue shade. Closed-loop concepts were highlighted by Eurotay who presented three styles meeting the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign guidelines. Produced from 100 per cent cotton, rivet-free jeans has removable buttons and enzyme washes.

Signature fabric franchises like Iso Reform and Iso Pop were showcased by Turkish denim mill Isko. Turkish trims supplier Kasiv presented recycled leather patches. Made of upcycled leather scraps, these patches were combined with a water-based chemical that bonds the pieces.

New collaborations

Exhibitors emphasized collaborations is key to many new innovations. Indigo Textile showcased a new traceable technology being developed in collaboration with Diamond Denim by Sapphire. Being used by brands like Reformation, the technology is available in a limited range of Indigo Textile fabrics. However, the company plans to expand its use at client’s request.

Rashid Iqbal, Executive Director, Naveena Denim said, collaborations between brands, mills and fibers will become the new norm in the denim industry. The mill’s collaboration with the German brand Tom Tailor emphasizes on the benefits of four hemp-blended fabrics used across men’s, women’s and children’s jeans and jackets. The company has developed a rope-dyed 100 per cent hemp fabric that complements the first woven fabric.

Sri Lanka’s ongoing crisis is leading to a loss of 10-20 per cent of orders that are being diverted to India and Bangladesh, warns Felix Fernando, Joint Apparel Association Forum.

As per a Tamil Guardian report, major brands have had to meet with buyers in recent weeks to reassure them that the ongoing unrest in the country would not disrupt their orders.

According to a report by the Export Development Board, Sri Lanka’s apparel and textile turnover increased by 13 per cent Y-o-Y to $1.9 billion between January and April 2022. However, the country may not be able to sustain this if it fails to restore buyers’ faith

The situation may further worsen by concerns of a coming global recession which would further dampen the buying power of apparel buyers and badly damage Sri Lanka’s export sector.

Fernando noted that road closures due to protests had caused difficulty for apparel companies in getting their workers into the factories leading to missed deadlines. However, he notes that trade unions have recognized the seriousness of the challenge and have not taken to strikes. Fernando further states:

Gap Inc, a portfolio of purpose-led, billion-dollar lifestyle brands including Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic, and Athleta, and the largest specialty apparel company in the US reported fiscal 2022 financial results for its first quarter ended April 30, 2022.

As per the company’s figures, its net sales declined by 13 per cent to $3.5 billion, from last year. Sales growth was negatively impacted by an estimated 5 percentage points related to lapping the benefit of stimulus last year and approximately 3 percentage points from divestitures, store closures, and the transition of the company’s European business to a partnership model.

Comparable sales declined by 14 per cent Y-o-Y. Online sales declined by 17 per cent compared to last year and represented 39 per cent of total net sales. Store sales declined 10 per cent compared to last year. The company ended the quarter with 3,414 store locations in over 40 countries, of which 2,825 were company operated. The company’s gross margins declined by 930 basis points from last year to 31.3 per cent.