With the deadline of importing duty-free cotton in India finally over on November 1, when the new season began, Indian cotton industry is in a fix. Recent disruptions in global supply chain have delayed India-bound cotton imports from Australia and the US which are stuck in transit, coupled with an acute shortage of containers. The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has appealed to the textile minister Piyush Goyal, to extend the period for another month, as these shipments will take time to reach Indian ports.

CRISIL reports fall in cotton exports

Meanwhile, the duty-free extension will enable importers to receive the natural fibre as per government’s policy and reduce the suffering of cotton industry. Cotton prices have dropped recently by around 44 per cent from its peak of Rs 108,000 per candy of 356 kg and with the peak of the arrival season beginning, prices are expected to drop further drop.

As per a Credit Rating Information Services of India (CRISIL) report, lower Capital Expenditure (Capex ) will have a slight impact on credit profiles of cotton yarn spinners. Over the next few years, Indian cotton yarn will be benefitting from the US ban on Chinese exports from the Xinjiang region, which will boost its own sales. Even then, export volume will fall up to 20-25 per cent this year due to the high-base effect of last fiscal year and also because domestic demand is expected to pick up 7-9 per cent soon due to more orders from end-user segments. “There are three reasons for moderation in the profitability of spinners this fiscal year. First, is the fall in cotton-yarn spreads to Rs 90-95 per kg this fiscal (similar to Rs 85-90 per kg pre-pandemic) from Rs 115 per kg last fiscal. Second is low-capacity utilization in the first half that can’t be compensated fully in the second half, and third, expected inventory losses due to correction in cotton prices,” points out Gautam Shahi, Director of CRISIL Ratings,

Man-made fibers usage increases

As a result of this, the average debt to EBITDA (Earnings before Interest, Tax, Depreciation and Amortisation) the ratio of cotton spinners could grow to twice this fiscal from an exceptionally low 1.4 times last fiscal. That would still be lower than the 3-3.5 times seen between fiscal years of 2017- 2020.Capex will be curtailed this fiscal to Rs 1,800 crore, which is equal to the average annual Capex of Rs 1,700 crore between fiscal years of 2017-2020- which included the Covid years - as compared with the Rs 2,400 crore last fiscal.

However, credit profiles will only be slightly impacted as Capex will be lower on-year while the working capital requirement is expected to remain stable and this will help to keep debt levels in check this fiscal year. Earlier, strong cash accruals which stemmed from higher profit margins had helped spinners to deleverage. These two together will help to keep the credit profiles of cotton spinners stable. This is indicated by an analysis of 110 cotton yarn spinners rated by CRISIL Ratings, which accounted for 35% of the industry’s revenue.

Industry analysts opine thanks to cotton import problems, demand for man-made fiber (MMF) products has risen sharply to 71 per cent with increased capacity utilization in textile mills using these fibres. International buyers feel the demand for cotton textiles will pick up during Christmas and the last quarter of this financial year once the inventory for textile goods is exhausted and improved production begins. The cotton industry remains in hope of the next quarter when it expects to make hay while the sun shines.

A full-fledged implementation of the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) agreement can boost trade volumes by around 40 billion dollars.

With the rise in trade volumes, real incomes can increase by up to 2.5 percent, upswing trade activities among RCEP members by 12 per cent. It can help uplift the livelihood of an additional 27 million people into the middle class for the RCEP region by 2035 while RCEP is estimated to increase global incomes by up to 263 billion dollars.

RCEP is a free trade agreement among the Asia-Pacific nations of Australia, Brunei, Cambodia, China, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, New Zealand, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. The 15 member countries account for about 30 per cent of the world’s population. The Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership is the world’s largest free trade agreement.

For instance Cambodia’s gross domestic product could rise by around two per cent to three per cent, exports would grow between nine per cent to 18 per cent, job opportunities would increase by three per cent to six per cent annually and tax revenue could increase by two per cent to three per cent per annum while the overall investment could increase by around 23 per cent.

Pre-industrial revolution that swept the West in the early 19th century, India was the undisputed hub of textiles. However, since then, inch by inch India found itself edged out, first by the mills of Manchester and later in the modern day context, from RMG manufacturing hubs like China, Bangladesh and Vietnam.

Tiruppur shows the way

However, tucked away in Tamil Nadu’s fifth largest city Tiruppur is an industry that can serve as a role model for India to reclaim its crown. Tiruppur contributes about 90 per cent of knitwear exports from India. In 37 years, this city has just kept it going with a huge growth rate of 23 per cent annually – from a mere Rs 15 crore export to Rs 30,000 crores in 2021.

Today, Tiruppur exports cotton and cotton-blend T-shirts, dresses, sweatshirts, and other knitted clothes to the US, Europe, Australia and Canada. According to Tiruppur Exporters’ Association President Raja M Shanmugham, out of India’s total FY22 exports of around $480 billion, Tiruppur alone accounted for a 1.07 per cent share.

Mega textile parks the way forward

Tiruppur has inspired the Indian government to study its success story to replicate it across key areas within the country. In October 2021, the Union cabinet cleared a Rs 4,445 crore scheme to build seven mega textile parks over five years seeking to boost manufacturing and jobs. The central government and partnering states will take on board developers who will bring in other investors to set up production units. The developers will get long-term lease of the park with real estate development rights but it will be their responsibility to bring in investors to set up the units. The lease would initially be for 25 years, which could be extended by another 25 years. The master developer will develop the park and maintain it during the concession period.

As per textile secretary Upendra Prasad Singh under the ‘Prime Minister’s Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel’ (PM Mitra) scheme, special purpose vehicles (SPVs) will be set up with 49 per cent central government stake and 51per cent holding by the respective states. As per the plan, all seven parks are expected to generate approximately 100,000 direct and 200,000 indirect jobs. Viability gap funding up to 30 per cent will be made available for greenfield projects. Brownfield will be supported with 30 per cent of remaining costs up to Rs 200 crores. With this mega initiative, the government is serious about catapulting India back to where it belongs.

Tamil Nadu, Punjab, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Assam, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh and Telangana are the first 10 states that have responded to this initiative, presenting their viability indices for review and subsequent selection.

The mega parks are India’s way of climbing back to pole position and these parks are to be designed to bridge the gap where India falls short in the MMF sector of the industry. Whilst MMF contributes to anywhere between 60-65 per cent of global trade, India’s contribution compared to China is quite small. These parks will fulfill the role with focus on MMF production. With the parks expected to go operational in a few years, here’s hoping they will make India great again, textile-wise.

American imports of readymade garments from the world in the first nine months of 2022 increased by 34 per cent compared to the same period of the previous year.

US apparel imports from China grew by 28 per cent. Imports by the USA from Vietnam increased by 34 per cent. Imports from India grew by 53 per cent. Imports from Indonesia increased by 54 per cent. Imports from Cambodia grew by 46 per cent. Bangladesh’s readymade garment exports to the United States in September 2022 increased by 34 per cent.

The US is the largest export destination for Bangladesh. There are three reasons for Bangladesh’s export growth to the US market. One is the shifting of orders from China to other manufacturing countries and another is increasing demand for knitwear products on the market.

Also orders are being shifted from China. US buyers are shifting their orders from China in large volumes and Bangladesh is getting a portion of the orders. Apart from Bangladesh, some other countries, including Vietnam and India, are getting a share of the orders being shifted from China. Before the pandemic, Bangladesh’s export item to the US was mainly woven garments, but the demand for knitwear has increased on the market for the past two years.

Turkey is the world’s fifth largest textile exporter. Turkey has a target of becoming one of the top three textile exporting countries in the world. The country is already one of the top five textile exporting countries and overtook countries like South Korea and Italy to claim the fifth spot.

Apparel exports from Turkey increased by 23 per cent in the first ten months of 2021. The country enjoys a competitive advantage due to its geographic location, integrated production structure and short turnaround times. In addition, the region boasts easy access to raw materials, an advanced textile finishing industry and can provide production flexibility for small orders. Turkey is known for the quality of its products, its unique blend of a traditional and aspirational aesthetic, as well as its ability to produce at volume.

Turkey’s textile industry dates to the earliest days of human civilization. The region is indelibly linked with quality and long-standing textile tradition.The country is known for producing quality at the higher end of the market, ensuring that suppliers are well positioned to tap into local consumer mindsets which have been shifting away from fast fashion and towards finished products that have a positive story behind them and a strong sustainability agenda.

Bangladesh can increase its garment exports to the European Union. So says Research And Policy Integration for Development.

The European Union (EU) is a bloc of 27 nations and over the past decades has emerged as an indispensable trade and development partner for Bangladesh and is by far the largest export market as almost half of Bangladesh’s merchandise exports are destined for the EU.

Bangladesh’s combined exports to the EU and the UK have increased rapidly thanks to the Everything But Arms (EBA) initiative, which has been designed to provide preferential duty-free and quota-free market access of goods originating from least developed countries.

Bangladesh’s exports of garments to the European Union (EU) rose by 45 per cent during January 2022 to June 2022. However Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the European Union may have abide by the carbon border adjustment mechanism (CBAM). The EU has moved to impose the carbon tax initially in five sectors -- cement, iron and steel, aluminum, fertilizer and electricity -- from January 2023.

Although Bangladesh’s major export items like apparel, leather and footwear are not included in the CBAM, these are among the 63 sub-sectors that are identified as sectors with a risk of carbon leakage and the EU might include these later on.

Fashion Futures will be held in Saudi Arabia, November 17 to 19, 2022. Leading regional and global figures will discuss key sector issues such as sustainability, entrepreneurship, diversity and culture and innovation.

The event will also provide a shop window for Saudi designers and brands to showcase and sell their products.It will feature speakers, industry influencers, retail activations, and pop-up events, as well as panel discussions, networking, question and answer, and masterclass sessions, and a closed-street party.

Fashion Futures will show the talent and thriving fashion scene in Saudi Arabia and will provide the opportunity for talent to receive international recognition. Several partners and creatives will arrange specialized masterclasses and discussions. The Italian design school Istituto Marangoni will lead a masterclass on the business side of fashion, focusing on market development; innovation trends, digital transformation, supply chains, and merchandising.

Other workshops will include a visual merchandising and brand content development masterclass targeting industry players. And a fashion stylist, senior executive, and politician image consultant will share her experience on crafting a personal brand. Thousands of sustainable, commercially available, and interactive textiles will be on display along with newly developed innovative materials mastered with cutting-edge technologies.The aim is to positively impact the fashion industry both locally and globally.

Kering is looking to buy Tom Ford. Kering is a French luxury giant. Tom Ford is an American fashion brand founded by the designer of the same name.

Kering is a global luxury group that manages the development of a series of renowned houses in fashion, leather goods and jewelry. By placing creativity at the heart of its strategy, Kering enables its houses to set new limits in terms of their creative expression while crafting tomorrow’s luxury in a sustainable and responsible way. Kering has more than 42,000 staff members.

Kering has managed to ride a sort of post-pandemic sales boom, especially across its Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga brands. The company has a market value of almost 60 billion euros which would not make Tom Ford an extremely expensive asset to acquire.

Tom Ford, best known for men’swear, although it also sells women’swear and accessories, as well as a line of high-end cosmetics and perfumes, was founded in 2005. A deal with Kering could make more strategic sense, given the French group’s experience in high-end fashion and accessories. Tom Ford could use Kering’s experience, expertise and savoir-faire to grow his women's accessories business.

For the third quarter of 2022 Kering’s revenue was up 14 per cent compared to the third quarter of 2021.

For the second quarter Sutlej Textiles’ total income rose by four per cent. Profit after tax fell by 23 per cent. Though the quarterly performance has been under some pressure, the company has been quite resilient and has operated at optimum capacity due to its diversified portfolio, multi-market operations, and strong relationships with customers and remains cognisant of the overall market dynamics going forward.

Sutlej Textiles and Industries Limited is part of KK Birla and a leading manufacturer and exporter of value-added dyed yarns (synthetic and cotton mélange) with a presence in home textiles. The total spinning capacity of the company presently stands at 421,008 spindles and it has a strong global clientele and exports to more than 65 countries.

Over the years, Sutlej has evolved its product mix. It specialises in synthetic, natural and blended yarns, all types of spun yarns and home textile furnishing.The company also processes fabrics. It is one of the largest manufacturers of value-added mélange yarns in India, making single-ply, double-ply and multi-ply grindle, roving grindle core spun, slub and other fancy yarns. It is also a one-stop shop for all kinds of spun-dyed yarn manufactured from natural or manmade fibers across any blend and any shade in the count range of 6s to 50s.

Karl Mayer held a warp knitting course in North America, September 19 to 23, 2022.

This was the first face-to-face event in the US since the Covid pandemic. The content topics included explanations regarding the different kinds of warp knitting machines and lappings, production calculations and an overview of the basics of textile analysis.

In total, eleven people who work in the areas of production and quality control, as well as the creative departments of textile and clothing manufacturers, attended the course, including self-taught professionals with practical experience, newcomers to the industry and warp knitting experts who were looking to update their skills. All of them benefited from the course and learnt many things that would be useful to them in their jobs. Quite a few gained a better understanding of their company’s products, were afterwards able to finally put things into context, and picked up ideas for improvements or new product solutions.

Karl Mayer trains the company’s customers all over the world, and either invites them to its sites in Germany, China and India for this purpose, or travels to see them. Karl Mayer makes warp preparation machines and is the only company in the textile industry to offer industry-leading solutions for the two main stitch-forming processes: knitting and warp knitting.