Germany's used clothing exports rose significantly in recent years, with the country now ranking as the world's second-largest exporter of used clothing. However, within a decade, the amount of textile and clothing waste generated in Germany has risen by 70 percent, according to the Federal Statistical Office in Wiesbaden.

In 2022, around 462,500 tons of used clothing and other textiles were exported from Germany, equivalent to 5.5 kilograms per person. Although this represented a 10.7 percent decline from the previous year, it was still a significant amount.

Poland and the Netherlands were the biggest buyers of German used clothing, accounting for one-third of all exports. Other important destinations included Belgium, the United Arab Emirates, and Turkey.

Imports of used textiles to Germany fell significantly in 2022, totaling almost 63,000 tons. The largest proportion of imports (about 41 percent) came from Great Britain, with Austria, Switzerland, and France also exporting used textiles to Germany.

Despite the decline in exports, a considerable amount of sorted used clothing and textiles end up in African countries like Ghana and Nigeria. Commercial companies often transport baled old clothes by sea, with critics noting that much of the shipped goods are unusable and end up in the garbage. This exacerbates the textile waste problem in countries such as Ghana, where used textiles are widespread and often discarded on beaches or in bodies of water.

Luxury fashion brand Dior is set to make history by holding its pre-fall 2023 show at the Gateway of India in Mumbai.

The show, which will take place on March 30, marks the first time a major European luxury brand has held an official calendar show in India. The collection will feature stunning evening coats, silk dresses, and skirts inspired by desi silhouettes, according to a report by Business of Fashion.

The show is a collaboration between Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior, and Mumbai-based atelier Chanakya School Of Craft, which celebrates India’s embroidery culture and empowers women artisans.

India is a prime market for fashion brands due to its young population, with 65% of people under the age of 35, and a growing number of millionaires. The country’s digital revolution has made luxury brands more accessible to affluent fashionistas in tier-2 and tier-3 cities, resulting in a boost in sales for international luxury companies. The Euromonitor predicts that the Indian luxury market will grow from $5.9 billion in 2022 to $6.1 billion in 2023.

Dior has a long history with India, having been inspired by the country’s intricate embroidery for its autumn-winter 1955 haute couture collection. The off-white dress with patterns of gold and peacock motifs, known as ‘Soiree de Lahore’, is vintage elegance personified and featured a shoulder drape inspired by the Indian pallu.

Dior’s decision to hold a standalone show in India highlights the commitment to empowering women artisans and celebrating India’s rich embroidery culture.

Almost 25 per cent of global population fall under GenZ category consumers. In developed countries as well as in urban pockets of emerging economies like India, Gen Z has the unique advantage of being the first generation of digital natives who are supremely confident of themselves and are genuinely concerned about climate change, sustainability and of course having experienced a two-year long deadly pandemic at a relatively young age. Thus this generation can be termed as more pragmatic, more realistic and hence their growing distance with fast fashion as they deem it wasteful, describes a recent Business of Fashion (BoF) report ‘Gen Z and Fashion in the Age of Realism in the US’.

A generation of socially aware consumers

Moreover, to this generation that is in search of individual expressions of oneself, fast fashion also represents cloned looks. It seems American Zoomers are predisposed towards fashion as their top favourite entertainment, followed by dining and video gaming. Brands like Abercrombie & Fitch generated high appeal with association to social causes and sustainability, brands like fast fashion icon Shein scored low as a favourite brand. However, the ugly point of affordability seems to tilt buying favour more towards the latter.

In unprompted awareness among the respondents, alongside popular Nike and Adidas stands the luxe Gucci, winning hearts with relevant collaborations. As the global fashion industry inches towards 2025 to become worth $360 billion, nothing is more important than having the buy-in of Gen Z.

Fast fashion and Gen Z

A study conducted in the last quarter of 2022 at Sheffield Business School showcases conflicting data as presented by British Academy of Management. Having interviewed a sample of British Gen Z students, it was found that women were more likely to espouse the cause of wasteful fast fashion than men but when it came to buying fast fashion items, women tended to buy much more than men. While 63 per cent respondents expressed their concern of social and environmental impact of fast fashion, 17 per cent of respondents confessed to buying at least one fast fashion item per week whereas 62 per cent admitted to buying one fast fashion item once a month.

The research found the dichotomy between being pro-sustainability but indulging in fast fashion was simply the lower value of such clothing items and the social media driven need to be on trend. This begets the question that is Gen Z prepared to walk the talk? Fast fashion Shein’s unrivalled success story in the US alone indicates probably not.

The Indian context

In India, Gen Z is about 27 per cent of its population and their choices and preferences are going to dictate fashion’s success as a sector in India. A collaborated study by Ipsos-Isobar found 78 per cent will personalize to look good and 79 per cent will make their own fashion statement stand out. According to Senior VP of Marketing Reliance Brands, Deepika Gehani, Gen Z doesn’t just decide on price points but also differentiating flavours brands represent in their collections.

Indeed sustainable products are catching up among urban Zoomers with 60 per cent respondents in the study clearly preferring international brands collaboration with Indian designers and artisans to showcase a strong Indian identity, which is radically different to the millennials’ desire for a global representation. Almost 68 per cent respondents stated they preferred brands that gave back to the community and brands that upheld social causes.

Inditex, the fashion retail group that owns Zara, has invested 15 million euros in the 'Regenerative Fund for Nature' project, which aims to promote sustainable agricultural practices.

The initiative was launched by Conservation International and Kering in 2021, and Inditex's investment will be used to scale up regenerative agricultural systems in man-made cellulosic fibres and cotton.

The fashion industry is heavily reliant on agriculture and its raw materials, and the collaboration seeks to push for sustainability by supporting regenerative practices. These practices aim to increase soil fertility and function, restore water cycles, enhance biodiversity, and store carbon.

Conservation International, which currently operates projects in over 100 countries, aims to transform one million hectares of crop and grassland into regenerative agricultural systems by 2026 through the Regenerative Fund for Nature. The organization works with governments, companies, civil society, Indigenous peoples, and local communities to promote sustainable practices that benefit both people and nature.

By supporting regenerative practices in the fashion industry, Inditex and Conservation International hope to promote sustainability and help protect the environment.

New data from the Office for National Statistics (ONS) has revealed that British retailers experienced a stronger-than-expected month in February, with sales volumes rising by 1.2% across the sector.

This figure was a whole percentage point higher than the 0.2% growth that experts were predicting. The ONS also upgraded its January retail figures to 0.9% growth, up from a previous estimate of 0.5%.

According to the ONS, the soaring cost of living had helped some shops, such as discount department stores. Food shops saw a rise in sales of 0.9%, whilst non-food stores jumped up by 2.4%. Meanwhile, the amount spent at retailers rose by 6.3% over the last 12 months, excluding petrol and diesel, despite volumes falling 3.3%.

Despite the positive February sales figures, ONS noted that the broader picture remains subdued, with retail sales showing little real growth, particularly over the last 18 months due to rising prices hitting consumer spending power.

Retail spending appears to be more resilient than many expected at the start of the year, but retailers may be hoping that sales momentum will pick up pace as the year progresses, especially towards the end of the year when disposable incomes are expected to start increasing in real terms.

The fashion industry has long been notorious for its negative environmental impact, with leather being one of the most polluting materials. However, a new wave of eco-conscious designers is taking the industry by storm by shunning animal leather in favor of vegan alternatives.

According to the 2017 "Pulse of the Fashion Industry" report, published by the Global Fashion Agenda, Boston Consulting Group, and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, cow leather is the most polluting material in fashion, while silk and wool are among the five most environmentally damaging materials. The leather industry is notorious for its use of noxious chemicals, which not only contaminate the waterways but also put workers in tanneries at risk of developing cancer.

Eco-conscious designers are making a statement by shunning animal leather in favor of vegan alternatives, slashing their environmental impact in the process. In fact, 33 leading Indian designers agreed to give animal leather the boot after being contacted by PETA India and Lakme Fashion Week. They joined the likes of Anita Dongre and Purvi Doshi, who have been leather-free for some time. Many designers and brands are also creating stunning shoes, bags, and other fashion items using innovative new leathers made from pineapple leaves, cork, fruit waste, recycled plastics, mushrooms, mulberry leaves, coconut waste, and more.

Helsinki Fashion Week banned leather from its catwalks starting in 2019. Other examples of eco-friendly fashion initiatives include Stella McCartney's use of vegan leather made from mushrooms.

Top international brands including H&M, which partnered with PETA US to create and launch a global vegan fashion collection called "Co-Exist Story", offer numerous vegan styles. And the list keeps growing as more and more consumers demand cruelty-free, eco-friendly fashion.

The modest fashion industry is projected to reach USD 122.73 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 5.70% from 2023 to 2030. According to the State of Global Islamic Economy report, Muslim consumer spending, including modest clothing, is expected to reach USD 3.0 trillion by 2021 from USD 1.9 trillion in 2014.

This market growth can be attributed to the increasing number of Muslims worldwide who prefer to wear modest clothing. The modest fashion industry is gaining popularity in the fashion world, especially in the sports sector, thanks to favorable changes in international game regulations. As a result, the market is expected to see significant growth between 2022 and 2029, driven by rising lifestyle and clothing expenditures among the Islamic population, as well as growing investments in online retail distribution.

The market is segmented on the basis of product, type, and application. The product segment includes ethnic wear, sustainable fashion, and sportswear. The type segment includes abayas and hijabs, prayer outfits, burkha and naqaab, thobes and jubbas, sportswear, and other. Meanwhile, the application segment is divided into Islamic men and Islamic women.

North America leads the market, driven by the rapid growth of young Muslim population, the rising ethnic fashion trends, and increasing immigration of Muslim population. The region is home to several multinational companies manufacturing Islamic clothing. The Asia-Pacific region, on the other hand, is expected to see the highest CAGR due to the increasing penetration of designer clothing in countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia, and India.

Indonesia's textile and footwear industries have demonstrated resilience in the face of global economic shocks, achieving a surplus in their trade balance despite recessionary conditions in key export destinations such as the United States and Europe.

The country's Coordinating Ministry for Economic Affairs reported that the textile and textile products (TPT) industry had a surplus of USD 3.71 billion, up 3.34 percent from the previous period, while the footwear industry achieved a surplus of USD 1.03 billion, a rise of 41 percent compared to 2021.

The high level of exports was driven in large part by sales of Adidas products manufactured in Indonesia. In 2022, the export value of Adidas textile and footwear commodities from Indonesia reached USD 2.54 billion, making the company one of the biggest contributors to the country's overall export performance.

Of the total exports, 33 percent of production was shipped to European countries, amounting to USD 826.6 million. Indonesia's strong economic fundamentals, including a large domestic market and stable political and economic conditions, make it a prime location for the production and export of TPT and footwear products. However, the integration of supply chains remains a key challenge that must be addressed for the industry to continue to thrive.

The government hopes that executives from Adidas and other industry leaders will invest in filling the gaps in Indonesia's supply chain, enabling the country to become a major player in the global textile and footwear industries.

Indonesia's textile and footwear industries have demonstrated resilience in the face of global economic shocks, achieving a surplus in their trade balance despite recessionary conditions in key export destinations such as the United States and Europe.

The country's Coordinating Ministry for Economic Affairs reported that the textile and textile products (TPT) industry had a surplus of USD 3.71 billion, up 3.34 percent from the previous period, while the footwear industry achieved a surplus of USD 1.03 billion, a rise of 41 percent compared to 2021.

The high level of exports was driven in large part by sales of Adidas products manufactured in Indonesia. In 2022, the export value of Adidas textile and footwear commodities from Indonesia reached USD 2.54 billion, making the company one of the biggest contributors to the country's overall export performance.

Of the total exports, 33 percent of production was shipped to European countries, amounting to USD 826.6 million. Indonesia's strong economic fundamentals, including a large domestic market and stable political and economic conditions, make it a prime location for the production and export of TPT and footwear products. However, the integration of supply chains remains a key challenge that must be addressed for the industry to continue to thrive.

The government hopes that executives from Adidas and other industry leaders will invest in filling the gaps in Indonesia's supply chain, enabling the country to become a major player in the global textile and footwear industries.

The once looked-down upon as the poor woman’s go-to, second hand fashion is no longer the poor country cousin but all the rage as societal changes are amply clear about today’s aware and evolved consumers habits, their relationship with ownership of material things and their buying behavior. These factors have not only challenged the fashion sector’s attitude but more importantly, their business models. The circular economy perspective is gaining followers in the market beyond a simple trend and studying the prediction, fashion brands are gearing up to close the loop.

Second-hand fashion market to be $ 64 billion next year

The second-hand market is expected to hit $64 billion in 2024, overtaking the tradition thrift and donation segment, according to Thredup’s Annual Resale Report in partnership with GlobalData. Forbes Magazine predicted that by 2025, resale of fashion goods, such as sneakers and other collectibles, could reach $6 billion in sales. What these figures show is an obvious statement - the resale market is growing from strength to strength and here to stay. Thanks to Internet and digital ventures through all fashion segments, resale fashion will become bigger and not be dismissed as a passing fad of activism. It is not only a shift inside the consumer’s process of product acquisition equation, it is a rediscovery of the value of things made to last, at least longer, and completely opposed to fashion’s rapid obsolescence.

Resale, vintage fashion, or the second-hand market have been around for ages and as concepts are not new at all. However, these clothing items did not have the exposure or the visibility to a wider audience who could appreciate their value and want to own such pieces. The ease of e-commerce, peer-to-peer exchanges, or even auction services, the consumer has found a valuable offer of clothing and accessories to buy compared to the full-price market. Additionally, when consuming second-hand, the customers are cultivating a responsible commitment to sustainability and curbing wasteful consumption.

Sustainability through circular fashion

KirsiNiinimäki, the reputable Finnish researcher of the Fashion/Textiles Futures research group says that a circular economy approach in the fashion industry aims to develop a more sustainable and closed-loop system where the goal is to extend the use- time of garments and maintain the value of the products and materials as long as possible. She adds that in the circular economy it is necessary to take a system perspective on fashion’s valuable supply chain, including all members as designers, producers, manufacturers, business entrepreneurs and of course, the customer. in March 2020 the European Commission presented the new circular economy action plan under the “European Green Deal”, including proposals on more sustainable product design, reducing waste, and empowering consumers to demand new industrial commitments in resource intensive sectors, such as electronics, plastics, construction, and of course, textiles and fashion.In February 2021, the EU Parliament demanded additional measures to “achieve a carbon-neutral, environmentally sustainable, toxic-free, and fully circular economy by 2050, including tighter recycling rules and binding targets for materials use and consumption by 2030”. Fashion brands are changing their attitudes to ensure they are vested in their commitment to sustainability through circularity. From here on, the focus will change from fashion providing instant gratification to long-lasting relationships with clothing items and follow the less is more principle.

The Real Real and Vestiare Collective champion resale

The San Francisco giant, The Real Real and Paris-based, Vestiaire Collective are a luxury destination for vintage clothing and second-hand luxury items and premium brands that are using the strategy of collaborative consumption. In March 2022, the Kering Group and Tiger Global Management invested a sizeable $ 178 million in financing the Vestiaire Collective reinforcing that second hand fashion is not only going big but profitable.