India's textile industry faces tough times as international consumers cut spending on non-essentials and import orders of both textiles and garments contract worldwide. This leaves the sector vulnerable. It can no longer be denied that the $200 billion textile and apparel industry is facing a crisis as consumers in the United States, Europe and other big markets have cut spending on clothing following a surge in inflation after the war in Ukraine.

While the overall Indian economy is relatively strong and is outperforming major economies, the textile sector is a notable exception and orders suggest the downturn will continue well into 2023, raising the risk of layoffs in an industry that employs over 45 million people, reveals various reports. Expert say, exports, which constitute about 22 per cent of the industry, fell over consecutive months, declining over 15 per cent year-on-year in November 2022 to $3.1 billion. A McKinsey report too has confounded the fear that export of textiles and garments did not have a good outlook in 2023.

This manifests in the production of textiles as measured by the Index of Industrial Production (IIP) for textile has seen a consistent decline since March 2022. On a cumulative basis from April to October, 2022, the index value was lower than the corresponding period in 2021.

Cost-attractive imports surge

As per CRISIL SME Tracker, in FY24, cotton yarn prices are projected to fall almost 15 per cent due to a high base and subdued export demand and this will affect price realization. The textiles sector could see a moderation in revenue growth in 2023-24 (FY24) as export demand, which usually accounts for a fourth of the total market, is expected to be limited due to a slowdown in US and Europe. However, domestic demand is expected to grow at a steady pace.

For small and medium enterprises (SMEs), which make up around 75 per cent of the textile value chain and are estimated to have seen robust revenue and profit growth in FY22 on the back of a post-pandemic surge in exports will be adversely affected.

Meanwhile, while production has taken a hit, imports of textiles have increased. In the period from April to November, 2022, imports of textiles were valued at Rs 433 billion according to findings by The Print. In the same period of last year, imports of textiles were valued at Rs 313 billion. In recent months, particularly after the onset of the Russia-Ukraine war, imports have risen consistently.

The steady rise in textile imports is not just a recent phenomenon. It owes its origin to policies of the past few years. India allowed duty-free import of readymade garments from Bangladesh under the South Asian Free Trade Agreement (SAFTA) in 2006. This has resulted in an increase in imports of apparels made with Chinese fabrics and yarns. Bangladesh imports Chinese fabrics, converts them into garments using its cheap labour and exports the garments so made to India, without paying any import duties. Thus, the duty-free market access given to Bangladesh is facilitating indirect entry of Chinese textiles into India.

Can domestic consumption rescue the sector

According to CRISIL SME Tracker, FY 2024 will show a boost in textile sector led by domestic consumption. With Indian consumers upping spends on readymade garments, festive wear and occasion wear, this is bound to affect the textile sector’s plunging production in a positive manner. This is why domestic production hubs like Kolkata, Kanchipuram and Ludhiana are likely to outperform the export-centric clusters. The proliferation of local labels for mass and high fashion, thanks to e-commerce, has also increased, adding to greater demand for domestic textiles.

If this trend continues upwards, the domestic textile sector will have to pull through 2023 for good times next year.

Human Material Loop, a company focused on utilizing waste keratin protein fiber to develop high-performance products for the textile industry, is set to take its material innovations to new heights.

The company's focus on utilizing waste keratin protein fiber from hair is an innovative solution to the problem of hair waste. Millions of pounds of hair from salons and barbershops end up in landfills or incinerators all over the world, but Human Material Loop aims to change that by collecting waste hair and treating it to provide thermal protection in extreme environments.

With their prototype jacket and pants filled with waste hair collected from local hair salons, Human Material Loop is ready to prove that their technology can move mountains – or at least protect those who climb them. The company recently took prototype gear created using the company's technology to the Andes and Aconcagua, the highest mountains.

The global technical textile market is set to experience significant growth, with a projected CAGR of 6.2% from 2020 to 2025, with a projected increase in value to USD 222.4 billion by 2025 which was valued at USD 164.6 billion in 2020, according to a new report by market research firm.

The market has seen exponential growth in recent years, driven by the growing awareness of the superior functionality and application of technical textiles across various sectors including automobile, construction, healthcare, and packaging.

One of the major opportunities for the growth of the technical textile market is the proliferation of new technologies. The advancements in spinning, weaving, and knitting have made it commercially feasible to manufacture technical textiles at a lower production cost. The development of high-performance fibers has largely been grounded in technologically advanced countries such as the US, Japan, and Canada, but is also progressing in developing countries like India, China, and Korea.

The Asia Pacific region is expected to be the fastest-growing market for technical textiles, accounting for the highest CAGR by value and volume during the forecast period.

This growth is largely due to government expenditure in the region, as well as the increasing demand for technical textiles in various industries.

Korean scientists have developed a new chemical technology, called "chemical sorting," which can help recycle post-consumer textiles into valuable monomers that can be reused to create new polymer materials.

This new technology separates polyester from other fabrics in a mixed and contaminated form and uses a unique chemical compound to disrupt the chemical interaction between polyester and the dye used for its color. This allows clean polyester to be extracted from the mixture, which can then be recycled into valuable monomers for the synthesis of polymer materials.

The chemical recycling technology has been licensed to Renew System Co., Ltd. in South Korea, and a demonstration plant is set to open by the end of 2024, with commercial operation planned for 2025. The technology has the potential to substantially reduce waste in landfills and achieve a circular economy in the plastic and textile industries.

The apparel industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, and synthetic fibers like polyester, which accounts for over half of all fabrics produced, are a major threat to the environment because they are not biodegradable. Unfortunately, almost 90% of post-consumer fiber wastes are either incinerated or deposited in landfills.

Texworld Evolution Paris is celebrating its 25th anniversary and has scheduled a special edition of the event from 3rd to 5th July 2023 at the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Centre in downtown Paris. The event will bring together buyers and exhibitors from all over the world and is expected to offer a unique experience for attendees. Texworld Evolution Paris is comprised of five major events: Texworld, Texworld Denim, Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, and Leatherworld Paris.

According to the event's organizer, Messe Frankfurt, around 1,300 exhibitors from twenty different countries, including India, China, Turkey, Korea, and Taiwan, have already confirmed their presence.

The anniversary edition of Texworld Evolution Paris will provide visitors with special events, entertainment, and innovative services, as well as networking opportunities. In addition, the Avantex Fashion Pitch awards will take place as part of the Avantex Paris show within Texworld Evolution Paris. The awards ceremony recognizes the best innovative fashion and textile projects each year.

The candidates for the Avantex Fashion Pitch awards will present their work in a 5-minute pitch to a jury of industry experts on July 3rd. The winner of the awards will receive a 'Start-up' stand at the next edition of Avantex Paris. The competition has three categories for innovative projects: services, textiles or soft materials, and fashion design. Interested applicants must submit their applications by June 10th.

Texworld Evolution Paris has always been a successful event for buyers and exhibitors, this anniversary edition promises to be something special offering a unique experience.

Fashion for Good has launched the Dyestuff Library, a digital tool designed to help partners choose sustainable dyestuff for commercial use.

The library provides visibility and access to sustainable innovations, accelerating the shift towards more environmentally friendly options. The project is supported by a group of Fashion for Good’s corporate partners including Inditex, bonprix, Target, Patagonia, adidas, BESTSELLER, Otto International, Paradise Textiles, Welspun, and Shahi Exports, as well as other stakeholders.

Traditionally, textile dyes were derived from natural sources before synthetic dyes revolutionised the industry. However, the annual use of over 10,000 tons of synthetic dyes has had a toxic impact on both humans and the environment. Despite efforts to phase out harmful chemistry, there has been a lack of clarity regarding the performance and scalability of sustainable dye options.

The Dyestuff Library aims to provide a solution to this problem by selecting 15 dyestuff innovations to participate in lab and pilot trials over the course of a year. Innovators will undergo extensive compliance and toxicity testing to ensure their safety for commercial use.

The project will be supported by supply chain partners Paradise Textiles and RDD Textiles, university and lab partners NimkarTek, Institute of Chemical Technology and UNICAMP, as well as participating Fashion for Good partners, textile experts, and ZDHC.

The world’s second-largest garment manufacturing hub Bangladesh has often been ignored by the niche but profitable high-end fashion sector as the South Asian nation had established itself as one of the top sources for basic garments. However, things are changing, post pandemic and the Russia-Ukrainian conflict that just won’t go away. Many luxe brands are now sourcing more from Bangladesh as the country meets quality requirements and is able to deliver as per orders.

Luxury brands serious about Bangladesh

US-based brands have been the first as the US-China face-off continues and American brands, to avoid conflict in their domestic market, find in Bangladesh, a reliable and uninterrupted source. Bangladesh has already been manufacturing for Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Calvin Klein, Timberland and Puma as well as the Italian Giorgio Armani and Dutch fashion brand G Star Raw. Ralph Lauren has also commissioned a few Bangladeshi textile manufacturers to produce their quality of denim fabric. Recently, Bangladeshi media reported a four-member buyers’ team from Hugo Boss AG had visited the country to look for supplier partners that meet the German luxury label’s standards.

Hassan points out, many international luxury fashion brands are shifting their orders to Bangladesh from China and Vietnam as the country’s suppliers gained the confidence of global buyers amid a supply chain disruption. Moreover, US brands are transferring orders to Bangladesh from China due to geopolitical issues, as they find Bangladesh a reliable supplier.

Companies likes the DBL Group, Square Group, Viyellatex Group are all getting orders from top luxury brands like Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss among others. As per a TBS news, Dutch fashion brand G-Star RAW is looking to source about two lakh pieces of outerwear worth around $10 million from Bangladeshi manufacturer Snowtex Outerwear. For sportswear brand Puma, Urmi Group is the one of largest suppliers of Puma.

No change in vendor pricing post-pandemic

As per a study by a group of British financial researchers that interviewed around a thousand Bangladeshi garment manufacturers, big clothing brands are squeezing Bangladeshi suppliers to offset inflation. About 70 per cent brands sourcing from Bangladeshi garment manufacturing factories are paying vendors about the same as before the pandemic. This translates to an unfair trade as the pre-pandemic negotiated prices do not factor in the sharp increase in raw material and energy prices.

The study indicates while the big brand names might add glitter but in reality have done nothing to help Bangladesh’s garment manufacturing sector generate sustainable profits and better wages for its workers. Professor Muhammad Azizul of Aberdeen Business School that lead the research stated when suppliers are underpaid, workers are the ones who are impacted. The number of workers employed in factories that participated in the study post-pandemic was about 10 per cent lower than pre-COVID levels in 2020 despite a rise in clothing exports from Bangladesh. H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB, Inditex SA’s Zara, Walmart Inc. and Gap Inc. were among the large international retailers that were named in the report.

Bangladesh has done much towards quality output

During the Bangladesh Business Summit 2023, representatives of the country’s garment manufacturing industry requested international fashion brands to be fair in terms of negotiated prices as Bangladesh has certainly invested in improving quality and diversity of products. President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Faruque Hassan stated the practice of paying Bangladeshi garment exporters much lower than global average prices was unethical and went against all the effort the South Asian nation has made, including green compliances. Mohammed Hatem of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) pointed out that massive progress was made in the areas of workplace safety and environmental sustainability and today Bangladesh has proudly positioned itself as the world’s most preferred apparel sourcing destination. Hatem says, Bangladesh has the highest number of green factories and in fact eight of the world’s top 10 green factories.

End of the day, whilst its portfolio of luxury and fashion brands might look stellar, is the country’s garments manufacturing centre benefitting from improved profits and better wages remains to be seen.

The global sequins clothing market is expected to witness a steady rise at a CAGR of approximately 6% during the forecast period, driven by increasing fashion trends and the evolving landscape of retail brands, as per Future Market Insights

Millennials, who are influenced by luxury lifestyle, are particularly attracted to these sequins dresses. The market is also propelled by the growing demand for sequins clothes during wedding seasons, growing popularity of the theme party and rising trend of the entertainment industry contribute to the market growth.

The US and Canada are the largest markets for sequins clothes, with Canada introducing high-end wear and investing in the research sector for introducing a variety of clothing with sequins. In the US, fashion is the largest and most common application segment, and the popularity of sequins costumes is high among the young generation, which primarily attributes the regional growth.

European countries, including France, Germany, UK, Netherland, Spain, and Italy, have produced high-end luxury sequins clothes, while Southern and Eastern European countries like Poland, Romania, and Hungary have produced medium-priced products.

Manufacturers and suppliers need to focus on new techniques for the production of fashion and sequins clothes and expand their business portfolios to collaborate with e-commerce supply channels for steady market growth.

“Balancing the need to produce less with innovating and reaching company goals, and increasing the longevity and durability of products”, says Daisuke Tsukagoshi, CEO, Fast Retailing in a recent interview.

He highlighted the company's commitment to creating products that people truly need, rather than following the fast fashion trend. Tsukagoshi has been instrumental in guiding Uniqlo, a brand of Fast Retailing, through a significant transformation from a Japanese-based fashion destination to a globally recognized clothing brand. This transformation comes at a time when the fashion industry is being rethought, and the company is adapting to these changes.

The company has taken significant steps to achieve its sustainability goals including a goal to use 100% sustainable materials in its products by 2030. Uniqlo launched its Re.UNIQLO program in 2020, which encourages customers to recycle their unwanted clothes in exchange for discount vouchers. The company is also exploring new and innovative ways to produce clothing sustainably.

In addition to its focus on sustainability, Fast Retailing is committed to innovation. The company invests heavily in research and development to create new, high-quality products that meet the changing needs of consumers.

Uniqlo, which opened its first store in 1984, has come a long way since then. The brand now offers a wider range of clothing and has over 1,000 stores worldwide.

Industry stakeholders, unions in German textile and clothing industry reached an agreement to raise the incomes of approximately 100,000 employees. The collective agreement includes income increases totaling 8.1 percent, with lower wage groups receiving at least 230 euros more.

Additionally, employees will receive tax-free inflation compensation payments of 1,500 euros and a continuation of partial retirement under improved conditions for 24 months.

IG Metall, the union had initially demanded an 8.0 percent pay rise over twelve months, but the agreed-upon increase is slightly higher. The tariff result not only benefits employees but also secures the future of the companies.

The recent round of collective bargaining was reportedly one of the most difficult in decades, with the companies facing significant challenges. The apparel manufacturing industry is facing additional pressure from the announced closure of Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof stores and the insolvency of Peek&Cloppenburg.

However, the collective agreement offers some relief for employees and provides some stability for companies in this challenging time.