As per Ministry and Commerce and Industry figures, India has seen a slight decline of 5.57 per cent in knitted fabric export values from January to October 2020. The country shipped $348.71 million worth of knitted fabrics during the said period as against $369.27 million in the corresponding period of 2019. Sri Lanka was the top export destination, with imports worth $144 million of knitted fabrics from, however there is a decline of 15.12 per cent on year on year basis. However, there was slight recovery as Sri Lanka’s import from India grew 3.41 per cent in October.

Meanwhile, US, witnessed a sharp increase of 73.18 per cent, valued at $90.24 million in knitted fabrics imports from India. Bangladesh was the third top destination but a steep contraction in its manufacturing activities resulted in a 30.65 per cent fall and India could just export worth $44.74 million in Jan-Oct. Likewise knitted fabric exports to Ethiopia also grew 15.84 per cent to $19.34 million.

These four markets accommodated approximately 86 per cent of total knitted fabric exports from India during first 10-month period of 2020.

COVID -19 has severely affected Bangladesh exports, mainly due to the huge drop in shipment of readymade garments. According to the Export Promotion Bureau data, readymade garment (RMG) exports decreased 16.94 per cent to $27.47 billion in 2020 from $33.07 billion the previous year. Latest figures reveal the country’s export earnings in 2020 fell to $33.60 billion from $39.33 billion in the previous year as the COVID-19 outbreak hit global economy.

The first lockdown caused unprecedented disruption between March and May, when billions of dollars worth of exports were cancelled or postponed, threatening the country's garment industry which is responsible for more than 80 per cent of the county’s exports. Export earnings began to increase again from June but the second wave started taking a toll from October, although exports from July to December were down only 0.36 per cent compared to the same period in 2019.

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturer and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has expressed fear that the downward trend will continue until April as the situation appears to be worsening with exports in December down nearly 10 per cent on the same month in the previous year.

BGMEA President Rubana Huq’s saus, woven garment export posted the worst performance since June 2020 as it declined 18.07 per cent. Given the effect of lockdowns in Europe and the US and its impact on retail and demand, the worst ever Christmas sales the world has seen, and most of all the effect of price decline, it was a dark year for the industry that the industry has seen.

China has lifted import quota on Australian wool, reported The Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) citing Australia's Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade. China takes a third of Australia's exports however, rising diplomatic tensions between the two counties have seen China clamp down on imports of a number of Australian commodities such as barley, wine and timber.

Australia has been a leading voice calling for an independent inquiry into the origins of the novel coronavirus and, partly because of this, has seen its relations with China sour. The ABC reported the quota will increase to just over 38,000 tonnes, up from around 36,000 tonnes in 2020. It also reported that New Zealand's import quota to China remains unchanged. Australia controls 90 per cent of global fine-wool exports, where prices are largely driven by Chinese wool mills and Italian garment makers.

The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has warned the industry could collapse unless the government agrees to extend a scheme to lend garment manufacturers money to pay wages due to the pandemic. They want the government to extend salary stimulus package by six months and put back the deadline for loan repayment by one year.

Rubana Huq, President, BGMEA wrote an open letter and said meeting the scheduled repayments to the government-owned Bangladesh Bank from the end of this month - as agreed - would force many garment manufacturers out of business. Without the moratorium of salary stimulus package being extended by six months or the tenure of the loan being extended by at least one year (currently 24 months) the industry will collapse.

According to Huq, the country’s apparel exporters have already borrowed a about 105 million Bangladeshi taka from the salary stimulus package to pay workers’ wages during April, May, June and July last year. Although factory owners agreed to repay the money in 18 instalments from the end of this month data released by the Export Promotion Bureau suggest the industry was still facing difficulties.

The country’s export earnings in 2020 fell 14.57 per cent to $33.60 billion from $39.33 billion in the previous year as the pandemic hit global economy. Export earnings began to increase again from June but the second wave of COVID-19 started taking a toll from October, with RMG exports in December down nearly 10 per cent compared to previous year.

The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) too called for minimum wage to be frozen for two years to help members survive the economic impact of COVID-19. However, unions said garment workers were already facing abject poverty and urged the government to reject the plea.

Andreas Ferrarese, Italian Ambassador to Pakistan announced Italy wanted to start a new era of economic and trade cooperation with Pakistan through transfer of technology and for up-gradation of Pakistan’s textile industry. Reports suggest, Green economy, transfer of technology for industrial sector including textiles and agro industry, construction sector, education and health are major areas of focus to extend bilateral cooperation. Through the green economy, Italy wants to cooperate with Pakistan for environment protection, circular economy, resource saving and management, ecosystem protection and recovery, water conservation and natural disaster prevention. The Italy-Pakistan Textile Technology Center (IPTTC) in Faisalabad at the National Textile University (NTU) shall upgrade the local textile sector. The training centre, which is the first of its kind for Italian textile machinery technology in Pakistan, was inaugurated recently. The Italian government project will support the development of the local textiles industry, by equipping it with Italian machinery.

Pakistan exports to Italy were $.731million during fiscal year 2019-20 with textile, leather, rice, ethanol, textiles articles, sets, worn clothing, cotton, apparel, crocheted, cereals, raw hides and skins, beverages and footwear. Currently, Italy is providing technical assistance to Pakistan’s textiles, leather and marble sectors.

Two Paris Fashion Weeks scheduled for January mainly, menswear and haute couture, will not feature any live runway shows. This has been done keeping in mind the rules laid down by the government as the second nationwide lockdown was announced in France; informed the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

The decision was taken after discussions between the Préfecture de Police in Paris and the Fédération, which informed the participating houses. It also follows the latest address from French Prime Minister Jean Castex, where he emphasized lockdown restrictions would remain in place in France. Restaurants, cinemas and ski resorts have been closed since December as the country struggles to slow down the Covid-19 pandemic.

However, Fédération’s executive president Pascal Morand insists the seasons will continue, albeit overwhelmingly online. He also informed many houses were still deciding on the exact format of their shows but stressed that houses could still present shows with models on the web, though behind closed doors. The federation has a state-of-the-art platform, where people can see every collection on the web. So, everything is in place for it to work.

Paris had already published significant schedules of shows, highlighting the desire of many houses to present collections. There are 71 houses listed on the menswear calendar, including such powerhouse marques as Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme and Hermès, along with influential designer brands as Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Vetements, Paul Smith, Loewe and Thom Browne. The couture calendar features 32 houses, such as Chanel, Armani Privé and Jean Paul Gaultier.

While 2020 was full of hardships for brands and retailers with store closures, major dip in both sales and revenues, many struggled while others looked for ways to stay afloat. In all this madness brands came up with new strategies to survive. From antiviral collections, home apparel line to shop-on-wheels at resident welfare associations and appointment viewing, besides doorstep delivery fashion and lifestyle brands rolled out new ways to reach and connect with customers.

Innovative customer approach

As Ajay Kapoor, President-retail, Fabindia explained to BrandWagon Online, “It is all about unlearning what has been learnt in all these years and learning new tricks of the trade.” Fabindia’s business has recovered 60 to 70 per cent while online sales have doubled over the last six months. The brand launched its ‘White glove service’ through which it reaches loyal customers with online customised catalogues and look books to order products delivered at their homes. The aim is to be present wherever the customers are.

Other brands too have come up with innovative ways to connect with customers. Peter England introduced a collection of workwear, loungewear and face masks with virus-resistant technology ‘HeiQ Viroblock’ in collaboration with Switzerland-based HeiQ. Manish Singhai, COO, Peter England, believes most of these products will remain relevant in future. She feels the deep cultural change that took place during the lockdown in consumer habits is likely to stay for a long time. “Moreover, wellness series of products as well as health products are going to gain prominence in the future,” she told the Financial Express, with work from home becoming the new normal, casual, comfortable clothes will be in demand for a long time.

Online retail in focus

Peter England’s online sales have doubled since Covid-19. In fact, most brands have seen a spurt in online sales and hence have increased marketing spends on online platforms.

For example, High Street Essentials clothing brands FabAlley and Indya are looking to only spend online till the first quarter of FY22. As Tanvi Malik, Co-founder, FabAlley and Indya explains, within digital, performance marketing will contribute about 90-95 per cent of the company’s spend and 10 per cent will be spent on brand building on digital. The company’s online sales are almost 120 to 150 per cent higher than last year. Having understood the importance of online sales the company looks to sharpen its focus on the medium. Practices like same-day refund and exchange process; communicating real-time delays in orders through association with logistics intelligence platform Clickpost are some ways they are looking to gain customer’s trust.

The bottomline therefore, is reinvention keeping new realities in focus. Fashion as of now is all about being casual and comfortable and brands need to realign their offerings as per demand.

Lakmé Fashion Week, launched its new digital couture showcase, ‘Nexa Digital Couture’. The couture shall present interactive, ready-to-shop looks by Ridhi Mehra, Amit Aggarwal, and Abraham and Thakore.

Presenting an ethereal and vibrant ensemble for the showcase Designer Amit Aggarwal launched the collection ‘If flowers had fins’ inspired by fantasy. According to the designer, his look is an extension of his wider couture collection, which promises a new beginning through these unprecedented times.

Meanwhile Ridhi Mehra presented a fluid, turmeric yellow look for the digital event. According to Mehra the look is inspired by the royal heritage of Kutch. It embodies timeless elegance, crafted with dexterity and boasting the essence of the elements of the Bandhani art form from Gujarat.

Design duo Abraham and Thakore’s offering was paired down but intricately constructed. The look is inspired from the Sikkimese Baku wrap dress and skirts, which allow the wearer to wrap it to the way they prefer either front or back with the freedom to wear it looser or fitted.

The looks were revealed across Lakmé Fashion Week's social media platforms including Facebook. The looks are also ready to purchase and shoppers can message the brands on Instagram to purchase the looks. The showcase will also feature looks by brands including Kanika Goyal Label and Huemn.

The ‘new normal’ has tempted leading fashion brands to take a plunge into the ever growing loungewear market. Keeping in sync with the changing trend Levi’s recently introduced Levi’s Red Tab Unisex Sweats, a collection of French terry sweats—each distinguished by the heritage brand’s hallmark red tab typically found on the back pocket of its jeans.

Made with 100% organic cotton, Levi’s garment dyed loungewear features a unisex design and relaxed vintage fit. The collection includes a crewneck sweatshirt, sweatpants and a hoodie offered in sizes XS-XL.

Levi’s joins a growing roster of brands with denim roots entering the loungewear space. NYDJ recently bowed its first line of sweats called Forever Comfort. The collection features women’s tie-dye hoodies and jogger pants in three colors. L’Agence recently bowed an elevated sweats collection as well.

Danish fashion group Bestseller has launched Fashion FWD Lab, an experimental sustainability center in Bangladesh. The lab will focus on developing new, environmentally friendly materials and circular business models, as well as innovative production technologies.

Fashion FWD Lab partnered with GMS Composite Knitting, Bestseller’s largest jersey supplier in Bangladesh as per reports, Bangladesh was chosen because a significant portion of the Bestseller’s total production takes place in Bangladesh, with a focus on cotton.

According to Bestseller that the estimated amount of manufacturing waste in Bangladesh is 400,000 tons per year and that the country currently recycles less than five per cent of its waste domestically.

To develop the coveted new recycled yarns, Bestseller is working with Cyclo–a Bangladeshi recycled cotton fiber company whose mission is to responsibly recycle the hundreds of tons of cotton fabric discarded daily as trim waste. By eliminating the dyeing process, Cyclo uses a mechanical recycling process that shall reduce the amount of water, energy, chemicals and carbon emissions.

Another initiative that Bestseller joined in the early stages is the Circular Fashion Partnerships (CFP) launched by the Global Fashion Agenda. While the collaboration with Cyclo and GMS focuses on the immediate recycling of waste and its direct implementation in future collections, CFP works on a more structural level to implement effective waste stream structures.

Getting Bestseller's several fashion brands involved in these projects is one part of Fashion FWD Lab: So far, Bestseller brands Selected, Name It, and Vero Moda have been approved to participate in the long-running project. The first collections made from Bestseller's own waste will be ready in spring 2022.