2022 hasn’t been a year of cheer for Bangladesh and its apparel export business. The traditional importers of Bangladesh’s garment products have primarily been the US, Germany, the UK, Spain, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Canada, and Belgium. The pandemic and the ongoing economic crises looming across the Western world has affected the volume of Bangladesh’s export to the point the nation faces a foreign exchange reserve crisis.

Moreover, its focus on manufacturing and exporting cotton-fibre based garments may have given it an established market in the West, but now is stagnating due to lack of diversification. Bangladeshi manufacturers of RMG contribute around a fifth of its gross domestic product and 82% of its export earnings. The shrinking of demand from the West has become a grave concern.

Commenting on the current scenario in Bangladesh, Shahidullah Azim, vice president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) said, “Most factories are getting orders of less than 30% of their capacity for the next winter season amid record inflation rates across Europe and the US. To cope with the ongoing turbulence on the global economic and political fronts, we have started looking for [nearer] destinations to export to." Bangladesh cannot afford to slack off and has to quickly reclaim lost grounds as it grapples with dangerously low foreign exchange reserves. Sheikh Haseena’s government recently applied for a USD 4.5 billion loan from the IMF to help bring down the risk of the kind of instability that has swamped its neighbors Sri Lanka and Pakistan.

Eastward bound

It was only the logical way forward for Bangladesh to realise it needed market diversification and the East offered less crisis-related issues than the currently beleaguered West. Azim said, "We are going to hold garment expositions in Japan and Korea individually in October this year to attract more retailers and brands from these countries." Bangladesh has been eyeing the tiny but lucrative Singaporean market where its garment exports have been nominal as it does not have the advantage of being an ASEAN member like fellow competitor Vietnam. However, since the end of 2021, Bangladesh and Singapore have been working towards an FTA which might add an advantage to the South Asian nation. However, the best deal so far has been China agreeing to raise duty-free access to 98% of goods imported from Bangladesh.

Diversifying beyond cotton

Product diversification seems the way out of this situation and Bangladesh is eagerly embracing working with man-made fibres to enable them to enter trending niches such as athleisure, sports apparel and technical-textile made garments. Kutubuddin Ahmed, chairman of Envoy Textiles said, “In view of the prevailing situation, we are now focusing more in research and development to produce more low-cost fabric and man-made fabric, as people's buying capacity is going down due to inflation. Such a switch could also help clothing makers deal with soaring input costs. Raw material prices have hiked, so we are thinking how we can make our production cost effective.”

Bangladesh knows the importance of exporting garments which yielded rich results for its economy and made it the poster boy of under-developed nations who are on their way to becoming developing nations. Tipu Munshi, Minister of Commerce explained, “We’re planning an export target of 80 billion US dollars by 2024 and 100 billion US dollars in 2026.”

YKK Corporation has developed the AquaGuard Natulon zipper, replacing the conventional water repellent AquaGuard zipper. The environmental-friendly Natulon has a tape made of recycled PET plastic and a fluorine-free water repellent.

The new product also improves the AquaGuard zipper’s opening/closing operability as well as its appearance.By using recycled PET for the tape, the Natulon zipper contributes to resource utilization and reduction of greenhouse gas emissions.

Furthermore, switching the main material used in the water repellent finish (film) to one that is fluorine-free also leads to improvement of the manufacturing process environment. This move also meets the tightening of organic fluorine compound usage regulations in Europe and elsewhere.YKK made improvements to the structure of zipper parts such as the chain and slider, improving the pin insertion and the sliding force when opening and closing the zipper.

Founded in Japan in 1934, YKK has continuously set industry standards for quality, innovation, and sustainability in the production of zippers, plastic hardware, hook and loop fasteners, webbing tapes, and snap and buttons. YKK solves the most complex fastening and attaching challenges and continues to pursue further functionality of its fastening products while promoting the development of products that are friendly to the environment and contribute to the achievement of a sustainable society.

Imports of industrial textiles by the United States in the second quarter of this year were the highest in more than two years.

The country’s imports of industrial textiles were valued at $2.941 billion in 2021.US imports of industrial textiles increased in the second quarter compared to $720.832 million in the first quarter of the current year. However, the imports witnessed a downtrend in the preceding quarters. They were at $752.101 million in the fourth quarter and $765.800 million in the third quarter of last year. The country imported industrial textiles worth $752.054 million in the second quarter of last year, crossing the $700 million mark for the first time in six quarters.The US had imported industrial textiles worth $2.941 billion in 2021, $2.302 billion in 2020 and $2.616 billion in 2019. Imports reached $1.793 billion in the first seven months of this year and the number stood at $265.270 million in July this year.

Industrial textiles comprises conveyor belts, drive belts, computer printer ribbon, printed circuit board and ropes and some other items made of fiber that are used for special purposes.Increased imports of industrial textiles show improvement in industrial activities in the world’s largest economy.

Bangladesh’s knitwear exporters want the US dollar rate refixed upward. This, they say, will enable them to encash export proceeds as in the case of remittance earnings and would help them survive amid local and global shocks and maintain harmony between export and import rates.

The sector’s production cost has gone up significantly with the rise in global prices of oil, transportation, raw materials and other logistics, and as a result they say it has become tough for them to make the desired profit through exports. Exporters say they are incurring huge loss due to the difference between import bill payments and export proceeds encashments in dollars. So they want imports and exports to be in harmony.

The knitwear segment has retained its position as Bangladesh’s biggest exports earner in the readymade garment sector. Policy supports like cash incentives and utility have helped the entrepreneurs invest in the knitwear sub-sector including the backward linkage yarn, fabric and dyeing segments.Besides, changing patterns in fashion and buyers' preferences for quick delivery of products due to the long lead time caused by Covid-induced lengthy transportation also pushed buyers to source knit products from Bangladesh. Composite units having their own knitting, dyeing, sewing and finishing facilities are the other strengths of the country's knitwear sector.

Fashion Re:set Summit was held in the UK, October 11, 2022. The event was organised by the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI), the only association in the UK that brings together the clothing industry from fiber to garment manufacture, retail and aftercare.

The event was held around four key themes – ESG, sourcing, digital transformation, and staff well-being and talent management. There was a combination of presentations and panel discussions. The summit opened with a keynote presentation on the current state of the industry. There were sessions on sourcing, digital transformation and the skill shortage in UK garment manufacturing.The sourcing segment discussed how the industry can overcome the sourcing challenges of the last few years and the opportunities of new technologies, near-shoring, made-on-demand, and personalisation. The digital transformation segment debated the challenges, opportunities, benefits, and potential pitfalls of digital transformation. Yet another topic was one catapulted into the limelight by Covid – employee well-being and its link with talent management and the skills shortage.

ASBCI called on the fashion industry to work together to find collective solutions to its most pressing challenges. The event format was designed to encourage debate and foster collaboration at all levels between ASBCI members and the wider industry.

Sri Lanka’s apparel sector is coming under increased taxation.

The standard corporate income tax rate has been increased to 30 percent from 24 percent. The sector feels the additional rate of taxation will make the apparel industry very uncompetitive when compared with regional peers. Manufacturers fear the resulting consequences will be dire and may have disastrous outcomes for an industry that is striving to increase export income, local value addition, foreign direct investments, sustaining employee security, and economic growth.

Sri Lanka’s apparel sector is currently witnessing a significant decline in orders. The decline comes after impressive growth was seen in the first eight months of the year 2022. The country’s apparel industry is already confronting a 25 percent decline in its order books for the fourth quarter of 2022 due to rising inflation in the biggest export markets, disruptions in global supply chains, and geopolitical tensions.

For the period of January 2022 to August 2022, Sri Lanka’s merchandise exports increased by 12 per cent.Apparel andtextile exports increased by 19 per cent Except made-up clothing accessories, knitted fabrics, yarn and textile floor coverings, exports of other sub categories of the apparel and textiles sector increased.

Retailers like Marks & Spencer and Primark are taking steps to stop sourcing from Myanmar.

Marks & Spencer will cease sourcing from Myanmar by March 2023. Apart from Marks & Spencer, at least 32 global fashion brands and retailers have manufacturing links to Myanmar, including Adidas, Inditex, Fast Retailing, H&M, Next, Matalan and Primark. H&M ceased production in Myanmar in March 2021 in response to two protesters being shot by police. Primark has decided to exit Myanmar saying there are significant challenges to its ability to ensure the standards it requires protecting the safety and rights of the people who make its clothes and products.Retailers are having to decide whether their customers think that it is ethical for them to be buying from Myanmar. The Rohingya persecution issue has caught the imagination of large parts of the UK customer base. On the other hand organisations campaigning for the rights of garment workers have urged retailers exiting Myanmar to ensure that what they think is a responsible exit actually has a beneficial impact on the workers that they are leaving behind. Campaigners say the threat to workers’ quality of life by brands leaving is very real and financial compensation is the only way to prevent workers falling into destitution.So brands have been called on to set up a fund to provide garment workers with a basic income over the next year.

Japan's textile and apparel imports in August 2022 were up 15 per cent year-on-year and 25 per cent month-on-month.

The import volume from China increased by 13 per cent year-on-year and 29 per cent month-on-month.From January to August, Japan’s textile and apparel imports increased three per cent year-on-year and a decrease of 0.5 per cent over the same period in 2019.The growth rate of apparel imports exceeded 30 per cent for four consecutive months.

In recent years, the proportion of import volume and value of Japan's textile and apparel imported from China in total imports had a certain seasonal rule, accounting for the largest share in September or October every year, then gradually falling back to a relatively low level in April or May of the next year, and then fluctuating. Japan's textile and apparel imports growth hit a new-2022 high because of the low base in the same period of 2020.

Japan is a sophisticated market, leaning towards small-lot and short cycle delivery of supply. Consumption is diversified and quality expectations are very high. High quality and expensive Indian garments are gaining popularity in Japan. Customers like selecting garments that have a different character when compared with dresses and kimono worn at such occasions as weddings and parties.

Hanes Brands has formed a partnership with the University of California, Berkeley.

According to the agreement, Hanes Brands will design, manufacture and distribute an expansive collection of men’s, women’s, unisex, youth, infant and toddler fan apparel. In addition, it will create special activations and enhanced retail presentations.The ten-year strategic agreement gives Hanes Brands exclusive rights to design, manufacture and distribute high-quality, on-trend fanwear across mass and campus/local.The deal broadens the university’s retail footprint and includes the company’s iconic Champion and Hanes brands, the eco-forward Alternative Apparel brand and the garment dyed Comfort Wash brand.

Hanes Brands is the world’s largest supplier of collegiate fan apparel and one of the world’s most ethical companies. Its commitment to responsible, transparent manufacturing is ingrained in everything it does, as is the focus on continuous improvement of its environmental performance. The brand is unique in the apparel industry because it owns the significant majority of its manufacturing and supply chain operations and is known for transparency, managing emissions, implementing best practices and taking coordinated action on climate-change issues.

With over 68,000 worldwide employees, the company embraces environmental stewardship and the conservation of natural resources. Since 2007, the company has reduced energy intensity by nearly 21 per cent.

Invista has opened the Asia Innovation Center in China. The center will serve as a key capability within Invista’s global R&D network and is the company’s first R&D center for nylon 6,6 application development in Asia.

The AIC is positioned to broaden the possibilities for application development in engineering polymers and provide superior innovative solutions for customers in Asia.The lab is equipped with melt processing capabilities and a wide range of aging and mechanical testing equipment to determine key engineering polymer properties such as tensile and impact strength, hydrolysis resistance and flammability, as well as thermal transitions in polymer, including melting point temperature and crystallization temperature.

To accelerate innovative outcomes, the center has also established capability in CAD/CAE to simulate the behavior of nylon polymer under stress in real part dimensions. Located near Invista’s integrated nylon 6,6 facilities, the AIC contributes to Invista’s nylon 6.6 value chain.

With the pursuit of safer and more energy-saving applications in downstream fields, notably automobiles, manufacturers are seeking advanced nylon 6,6 solutions to improve application performance at reduced costs. Staying close to customers’ needs, Invista will provide cutting edge equipment and professional support to establish local expertise in engineering polymer formulations, applications, design, and testing.