The Section 301 Tariffs on American Consumers and US Businesses imposed by the Trump administration in 2018 in response to China’s unfair trade practices, seem to have boomeranged on the US doing more harm than good. A recent joint industry study has pointed out the negative Impacts on US consumers of Section 301, which was intended to compel US companies to move supply chains out of China and has affected many general segments of the average American consumer.

The joint industry study which included the United States Fashion Industry Association, the American Apparel & Footwear Association, the Footwear Retailers & Distributors of America, the National Retail Federation as well as the Retail Industry Leaders Association, elaborated on the detrimental economic impacts of Section 301 tariffs which are the taxes paid by American businesses and consumers. The report titled ‘Impacts of Section 301 Tariffs on Imports from China’ looks at the punitive tariffs that began in 2018 and provides an in-depth assessment of the impacts of the Section 301 tariffs over the last four years on US imports in segments such as apparel; footwear, travel goods and furniture imported from China.

High tariff rates on children’s footwear

The extensive report is based on US government data of responses to a survey of American companies who source their goods from China and revealed some key findings. Firstly, the negative impact of tariffs of higher costs and higher prices has fallen on US businesses and companies as well as average American families. Secondly, these tariffs have led to many other important indirect costs such as those associated with attempts to establish bifurcated supply chains. Thirdly, increased prices on consumer goods have had a detrimental impact on most American households where these represent a greater share of family income. These affected households, including the lowest 20 per cent of income groups; minority-headed households as well as families headed by individuals without a university education.

The MFN and Section 301 Tariff rates have also affected Section 301 products from China in different percentage levels in the four categories: apparel, footwear travel goods and furniture. These tariff rates are among the highest in the US tariff code and absent in the Section 301 duties on US imports from China. The American MFN duties on low-value and children’s footwear are much higher than those on other types of footwear, which is a burden on the average middle-class American family with school-going children. Section 301 duties add almost 25 per cent to the tariff burden for imported Chinese products.

However, the tariff that most heavily impacted American imports from China was on waterproof footwear. These tariffs imposed an annual direct cost on American importers of over $250 million, which escalated regularly every year to over $450 million in 2022 with no tariff exclusions granted to lessen the negative impact on footwear-sourcing companies. As per Mercatus Center, a US research centre at George Mason University, every one of the 442 footwear product exclusion requests filed was denied.

Opposition against tariff removal

Although the US apparel industry welcomed an announcement at the end of 2022 by the Biden administration to extend exclusions for many of the tariffs imposed by Trump, not everyone is agreeing to it. Many like the National Council of Textile Organizations have strongly refuted this and claimed tariffs must be retained if the US has any hopes of realizing nearshoring opportunities. These tariffs have given US manufacturers a chance to compete with others, says NCTO and the US Industrial and Narrow Fabrics Institute (USINFI). These associations which showcase the entirety of US textile production chain, have instead expressed strong support for the current Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel imports from China to continue for better economic effect. With a changed US administration and the dawning of year, the global apparel industry awaits changes in the new laws for better or for worse.

The global swimwear market is growing at five per cent a year.

Swimwear is commonly worn by people participating in water-based activities such as swimming and bathing. It shields the wearer from chlorinated swimming pools and seawater, which contain salts that can cause skin rashes.

Product demand is being driven by the global increase in population and product innovation to meet the need for specialized clothing for water sports and poolside or beachside vacations.

Swimming is one of the most popular leisure and fitness activities globally. The demand for swimwear is increased by consumers’ interest in swimming and the number of family beach vacations, which fuels the market’s expansion. The swimwear market is expanding due to consumers’ leading healthier lifestyles and participating in more water sports like swimming. In addition, factors including the rise in women’s demand for high-end swimwear, the expansion of public and private swimming facilities, and the adoption of e-commerce platforms all contribute to the market’s rapid progress.Innovative product ranges are in high demand in the global women’s swimwear market.

It has inspired manufacturers to release cutting-edge swimwear, like swimsuits that block damaging UV radiation and smart swimwear. Thus, the development of the swimsuit market as a whole will benefit from these novel products.

Istanbul Yarn Fair is on in Turkey till February 18, 2023.

The fair is a meeting place of giants of the yarn industry. Yarns from synthetic-artificial filament fibers, cotton yarns, yarns from synthetic-artificial staple fibers, yarns from wool and fine-coarse animal hair, vegetable fiber yarns, silk yarn, as well as a wide variety of yarn types, which are among the most exported yarn types in the yarn industry, are being exhibited at the fair.

In the fair, which focuses on the cyclical economy, one of the current topics of the last period, the recycled yarns to be installed in the foyer will meet the visitors in the special exhibition area with the adventure of the yarn from waste to the final product. Fair visitors will have the opportunity to see the story of a plastic bottle, as a sweater, step by step. In addition to the area where sample products of participating companies producing recycled yarn will be exhibited, visitors will meet with exhibitors at their stands for more detailed product information.

The fair, where environmentally-friendly, high-performance and high-quality products will be exhibited, is the most important commercial meeting of the international yarn industry. Last year, fair participants’ orders increased by 81 per cent while 32 per cent of the visitors made purchases during the fair.

Pakistan’s textile exports are expected to fall in the fiscal year 2022 to 2023.

Customers are now asking Pakistan’s suppliers whether or not they will be able to meet deadlines and ship orders on time. Many exporters are also reluctant to book new orders as Pakistan is short of dollars and basic raw material including cotton, dyes and chemicals. Almost everything has to be imported, starting from cotton to buttons and zips in order to manufacture one single product.

Pakistan does not have a proper industrial infrastructure and it lacks a complete backup supply chain. The production of cotton crop, which is the key raw material for textile products, has dropped by 45 per cent this year. The industry needs 15 million bales of cotton. Pakistan has only produced 4.5 million bales this year. To bridge the shortfall, the textile industry has ordered cotton from the US.

Some 25 million people are associated with the sector. The country is losing market share to Bangladesh and Vietnam. In this crisis, there are indications that some global shipping companies are considering boycotting Pakistan as thousands of containers are still stuck at ports. If this happens, Pakistan’s exports will receive a blow as the country does not have any land route to connect with the world.

In spite of higher costs and currency pressures Levi Strauss expects an improvement in gross margins for 2023.

The American company is seeing a boost from its direct-to-consumer business, with strong demand for non-denim clothing and women's apparel helping it offset slumping sales in Europe and an overall decline in wholesale revenue. However, the company does expect lower revenues in the firsthalf of the year. So it thinks of fiscal 2023 as a tale of two halves, with the first half weaker than the second half.

Nearly 40 per cent of Levi’s 2022 revenue came from categories outside denim bottoms, including chinos, leggings, tops, dresses, footwear and accessories. Levi’s projects net revenues between $6.3 billion and $6.4 billion for fiscal 2023. It expects full-year adjusted profit between $1.30 and $1.40 per share. Levi’s fourth quarter revenue fell six percent but edged past estimates while the adjusted profit topped expectations.

With shoppers now buying more office-friendly and non-denim bottoms such as formal trousers and cargo pants, there is some uncertainty around denim demand in the nearterm.With the United States on the edge of a recession, shoppers, pressured by high inflation, are spending less on discretionary items like clothing, with the denim category, in particular, set for a slowdown following a demand surge in 2021.

Natural staple fibers are driving this sub-sector within the textile industry as a sea change is being witnessed in terms of fabric preferences. Eco-conscious consumers, especially the millennials and Gen Z, the largest consumer groups worldwide are clear about their eco-friendly choices and the industry is trying to live up to consumer demands. As per a Future Market Insight Report, since 2022, the sub-sector of textile staples is witnessing a promising growth with sales projected to grow at 5.5 per cent. The market at present is pegged at $161.2 billion and is expected to touch $275.48 billion by 2032.

Growth momentum post-Covid

Growth is attributed to widespread consumption of textile staples in several end-use industries such as apparel, general and leisure, sportswear, interior flooring, and others is expected to push the sales during the forecast period. On historical analysis of the worldwide textile staples the report states, it grew at 5 per cent CAGR between 2012 and 2021 but has gained greater momentum since last year. Although natural fiber staples is the growth driver, synthetic textile staples will continue being in the lead during the forecast period up to 2032.

Apparel sector biggest user

In terms of application, 50 per cent of the total sales will continue to be in this sub-sector from apparel manufacturing. Use of textile staples in the apparel manufacturing sector in itself would register a 3.6 per cent growth annually. It is anticipated interior flooring will soon grow to be the second largest contributor in sales of textile staples. Not surprisingly, like most sectors related to end use of fabrics, the Asia Pacific region including Japan will be the single largest production cluster. Additionally, the healthcare sector is turning out to be another market of opportunities.

Some top manufacturers who are globally prominent in their own right include E.I. Du Pont de Nemours and Company, Lenzing AG, International Fibers Group, Invista, Thai Acrylic Fiber Co. Ltd. (Aditya Birla Group), Toray Group, Chori Co., Ltd., W. Barnet GmbH & Co. KG, Cellulose Cotton Wool Corporation of India, Teijin Frontier Company Ltd., Belgian Fibers SA, Grasim Industries, Indorama Ventures Public Company, Reliance Industries, Synthesia AS and the Woolmark Company.

These proactive players are setting up production units in emerging economies to pave way for greater cost efficiencies and profit maximization with such units. Many textile manufacturers are shifting from manufacturing generic products to niche technical textile products as currently it’s a playing field with less competition. The game is about higher volumes of cheap textile staples that can easily cater to the growing demand and also create usage growth in other segments because of its cost efficiencies. Manufacturers in the US are focusing on catering to the healthcare industry with such technical textile staples and setting up manufacturing units in South and South East Asia.

Phenomenal sales since 2022

Natural staple fibers are experiencing a surge in usage with cotton, jute and wool remaining popular preferences. Demand for natural and eco-friendly textiles is anticipated to surge because the consumption of synthetic staple fibers negatively impacts the environment. However, synthetic staple fibers such as viscous rayon continue being extensive among end users. Prominent companies are producing one of the most popular synthetic fibers, polyester, in a sustainable manner. PET bottles and polyester waste is utilized to create recycled polyester staple fiber. Among several other things, recycled polyester is utilized in carpets, pillows, blankets, and high-end cushions.

Reports suggest, India has so far invested $2.5 billion towards setting up facilities to manufacture both, synthetic and natural staple fibers.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s revenues for the fourth quarter of the year were down 0.5 per cent year on year.

Revenues at constant currency grew eleven per cent and declined 2.9 per cent in fiscal year 2022 and the fourth quarter of 2022 respectively. Excluding the Greater China Region, which was affected by Covid-related restrictions throughout 2022, particularly from mid-March to the end of May and then again in the fourth quarter, revenues were up 42 per cent year on year for fiscal year 2022 and up 24.7 per cent year over year for the fourth quarter of 2022.

Ermenegildo Zegna, based in Italy, owns the brands Zegna and Thom Browne. In spite of the continued global economic and geopolitical challenges of the year, the group is happy with its performance. Despite China continuing to be affected by Covid-related restrictions throughout 2022, the company’s growth for the year showed the soundness and success of its strategy, global reach, and flawless execution, with ongoing success in the Middle East, US, and Europe.

The company is optimistic about China’s reopening since a rebound in business and the industry at large is being seen. Ermenegildo Zegna will operate the Tom Ford fashion business under a long-term license from Estée Lauder.

Class will be participating at Milano Unica, Italy, January 31, 2023, to February 2, 2023.

The synergy between Milano Unica and Class is aimed at giving voice to the values of responsible innovation, a fundamental basis for next-generation fashion.

Class- creativity lifestyle and sustainable synergy ( C.L.A.S.S.) will present a smart shop, which is anonline space offering high-tech materials representative of a wide range of categories and applications that can bring the future of fashion to life. The smart shop is dedicated to students, designers and emerging next-generation brands determined to explore and test premium materials that can combine style, innovation and responsibility. Class will present an immersive journey through smart materials and responsible solutions for the contemporary wardrobe, including all the different expressions of ingredients: natural, transformed, innovative and circular materials.This will give visitors of Milano Unica the opportunity to learn about, and touch, innovative, yet conscious, design products in line with the contemporary values of the new generation.

Class , based in Italy, is an eco-hub which since 2007 has been supporting the whole supply chain to trigger change in the system while activating values that speak clearly to contemporary consumers. Milano Unica is a reference trade fair for high-end fabrics and accessories for women’s and men’s wear.

Bangladesh wants the United States to provide duty-free cotton imports for its readymade garment industry.

The US is the world’s largest cotton exporting country. Globally, Bangladesh is the second biggest readymade garment exporter and imports a good amount of cotton annually from the US. And the US also happens to be the largest export market for garments made in Bangladesh. Annually, Bangladesh needs around nine million bales of cotton for apparel manufacturing. Whereas Bangladesh produces only 1.50 lakh bales of cotton annually, which is only 1.6 per cent of the total demand.

Bangladesh is trying to increase cotton production. But even if cotton production doubles, Bangladesh will have to import an enormous amount of cotton from abroad. So the country feels that if the US were to provide duty-free benefits for cotton imports, its apparel industry will be benefitted greatly.In marketing year 2021-22 Bangladesh's domestic raw cotton consumption was estimated at 8.8 million bales. The textile industry is composed of yarn, fabric, and dyeing-printing-finishing mills and they have about 15 million bales of cotton consumption capacity.

Raw cotton is the second most imported product in Bangladesh. The country imports raw cotton primarily from India, the United States, Benin, Brazil and Spain.

H&M's fourth quarter profits were almost wiped out by soaring costs.

But the Swedish company held back from passing on full costs to cash-strapped customers.The world's second biggest fashion chain, which raised some prices, will continue with this pricing strategy even though it will not fully compensate for the higher costs, such as for energy, transport and raw materials. So the group will keep raising prices in some categories to a varying extent in different markets to partially make up for continued high costs.

H&M gradually closed its stores across Russia last year, and decided to exit the market.The retailer’s exit from Russia and the financial impact of a cost-cutting drive announced last year also contributed to the fall in profits. However the company expects sales and profitability to improve in 2023, primarily towards the end of the year.

The group in September 2022 launched a drive to cut costs with savings expected to start showing from the second half of 2023. This included cutting around 1,500 jobs as part of the program.Gross margins were weaker than expected.

H&M’s sales so far in the current quarter are strong - as expected, given the colder weather across Europe. H&M sales increased by six percent during 2022. The external factors that had had a negative effect on purchasing costs are gradually reversing and are expected to become positive for the company’s results in the second half of 2023. Purchasing costs are already lower for the orders being placed now compared with the same time last year. In addition, the second half will also see the positive effect of the cost and efficiency program that is expected to provide significant annual savings.