In anticipation of the upcoming European Parliament elections from 6 to 9 June 2024, EURATEX, the European textile and apparel association, has released a Manifesto outlining 15 key requests aimed at fostering a competitive European textiles and clothing industry. The Manifesto comes as Europe faces a pivotal moment, with the outcome of the elections determining the formation of a new European Commission.

Driving entrepreneurship for a competitive industry

EURATEX emphasizes the vital role played by the textile and apparel sector, contributing significantly to European wealth, jobs, and growth. With 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers and a turnover of €167 billion, entrepreneurship is touted as the cornerstone for a competitive industry, providing high-quality, sustainable products through innovation, creativity, and design. The association calls for recognition from policymakers and an open dialogue to establish favorable conditions for operation in both internal and global markets.

Crafting a smart EU industrial policy

Central to EURATEX's vision is the development and implementation of a "smart" EU industrial policy. The association advocates for policies that enhance competitiveness without burdening businesses with excessive administrative hurdles. EURATEX proposes a "competitiveness test" for new legislation, ensuring a critical examination of its impact. Additionally, the association urges investment in innovation, digitalization, and sustainable energy access at competitive prices.

Balancing sustainability with competitiveness

While committed to sustainability, EURATEX calls for economic realism in implementing the EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles. With 16 regulatory proposals on the table, the association stresses the need for coherence, enforceability, and applicability for SMEs to prevent market exit. EURATEX warns against fragmentation caused by varying national regulations, hindering growth prospects for European textiles.

Ensuring free and fair trade

As the second-largest global exporter of textiles and clothes, Europe, with $224 billion in merchandise sales, aims to secure open, free, and fair global markets. EURATEX emphasizes the importance of trade agreements offering effective market access and a level playing field for EU companies. The association calls for coordinated efforts with member states to enforce trade laws, ensuring protection against free riders.

Incentivizing demand for sustainable textiles

Recognizing the challenges posed by premium prices for sustainable products, EURATEX proposes standard requirements and fiscal incentives to drive demand. The association advocates for green public procurements by public authorities, integrating sustainability criteria into evaluation grids.

Alberto Paccanelli, EURATEX President, underscores the urgency, stating, "These elections are a turning point for the future of Europe and its industrial base." The Manifesto serves as a blueprint for aligning European industrial practices with global standards, fostering a greener, wealthier future through collaborative efforts.

In a pioneering stride towards sustainable textile practices, Rheiazymes, a biotech startup, takes center stage with its proprietary molecular bio recycling technology. Their inaugural application, YARN-TO-YARN, addresses the recycling void for synthetic yarn blends and functional textiles, utilizing natural enzymes to champion eco-friendly solutions.

Christian Schindler, the Director General of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), underscores the significance of embracing innovative entities like Rheiazymes. He emphasizes the pressing need for scalable recycling solutions in the textile value chain, applauding the collaboration between established industry leaders and startups to foster sustainable and commercially viable answers.

Sandra Grimmer, CEO & Co-Founder of Rheiazymes, highlights the global impact of winning the ITMF Start-up Award 2023. The accolade has not only elevated their international visibility but has also facilitated increased access to the global textile value chain. 

Grimmer emphasizes the crucial role of ITMF as a unique international platform, providing a conduit for Rheiazymes to engage with and understand the concrete needs of the industry worldwide. With groundbreaking solutions in the pipeline, Rheiazymes aims to transform the textile sector into a beacon of sustainability.

The upcoming Pure London x JATC show, slated for February 11-13, 2024, at Olympia London, promises a vibrant convergence of global fashion trends across distinct destinations: Footwear & Accessories, Jewellery, Menswear, and Sustainable offerings. The announcement has generated buzz with its eclectic mix of new entrants and returning favorites.

In the spotlight is the Footwear & Accessories showcase, featuring international must-have shoes and an expansive array of accessories. Spanish brand ALPE seamlessly blends tradition with innovation, while Natural World presents ecological footwear crafted from 100% organic materials. The Australian brand SOEK introduces ethically sourced sunglasses, and Lefrik showcases high-performance accessories made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Jewellery destination is set to dazzle with trendsetting suppliers like Pig & Hen, renowned for sustainability and unique design, and Narratives The Line, offering a celebratory range mixing materials and techniques. Sustainable fashion takes center stage, with brands like Outerknown and Kusan Accessories championing environmentally conscious practices.

Menswear is making a grand return to Olympia, with an enlarged destination featuring a spectrum of styles, from formal to lifestyle and heritage. Brands like Remus Uomo and Gianni Feraud add sophistication with modern tailoring and a rich history in leather manufacturing.

JATC Creative Director Juls Dawson expresses excitement about the current exhibitors, hinting at more additions to the lineup. The eagerly anticipated festival is set to host over 300 brands, making it a must-attend event for fashion enthusiasts. Save the date for Pure London x JATC, The London Festival of Fashion, from February 11-13, 2024, at Olympia London, promising a fashion extravaganza not to be missed.

Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam magazine presents "Vietnam’s Fashion Journey 2000-2023," an exhibition celebrating the remarkable growth and diversity of Vietnam’s fashion industry. Showcasing over 100 creations from influential designers like Nguyen Cong Tri and Tuyet Le, the event offers insights into their biographies, collections, and global achievements.

Nguyen Cong Tri, a member of the Asian Couture Federation, contributes signature pieces from his renowned collections, including "Em Hoa" at Tokyo Fashion Week 2017 and "CONG TRI Fall/Winter 2019" at New York Fashion Week, where his designs garnered international acclaim. Tri's creations have adorned global icons such as Adele and Beyoncé.

Tuyet Le, a Hanoi-based designer, presents her exceptional designs worn by international celebrities like Cecilia Cheung and Pia Wurtzbach. Recognized as the Designer of the Year at the Harper’s Bazaar Star Awards 2022, Le has left an indelible mark on the fashion scene.

The exhibition, open until December 23 at the Global City urban area in Thu Duc City, also pays homage to Vietnam’s fashion evolution through reality shows like Vietnam’s Next Top Model and Project Runway Vietnam. An additional highlight is a dedicated section showcasing the traditional Vietnamese craft of silk and handloom weaving.

Nguyen Tran Thien Huong, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam, emphasizes the exhibition's purpose: to commemorate Vietnam's fashion achievements in the early 21st century and honor those who have significantly contributed to its development. Admission to this exploration of Vietnam’s vibrant fashion landscape is free, inviting enthusiasts to delve into the country's sartorial evolution.

The Intex India 2023 exhibition concluded with resounding success, drawing prominent Indian and overseas buyers eager to explore the latest products and services for both domestic and export ventures. The event served as a hub for market intelligence, showcasing innovations, trends, and product diversification across the entire supply and value chain. Attendees connected with participating companies, opening doors to textile sourcing opportunities across India and beyond.

The show was inaugurated by Ms. Shubhra, Trade Advisor, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, with the presence of senior representatives from the Vietnam Trade Office in New Delhi, Confederation of Indian Textiles Industry (CITI), Okhla Garment & Textiles Cluster (OGTC), Udyog Vihar Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Karnataka Innerwear Association, and other key industry players.

Reflecting on the exhibition, RK Vij, Advisor, Indorama Synthetics, commented, "It's a very good exhibition with the latest display of yarn and fabrics along with accessories from all India and abroad. Delegates were enlightened to see the products physically. Ambience was also very good. All organizers were courteous, and the event was well planned.", resonating on the same lines, Vijay Mathur, DG & CEO, ATDC, observed, "Intex has become a must-visit international exhibition."

Intex India showcased a diverse array of textiles, trims & clothing accessories, dyes & chemicals, certification, and business consulting services, along with trade and investment opportunities in Africa. Among the leading buyers in attendance were Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Benetton Sourcing, Pepe Jeans, Pentland USA, Arvind Fashion & Lifestyle, Reliance Brands Limited, Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail, Numero Uno, VIP Clothing, Bhartiya International, Celestial Lifestyle LLP, Celebrity Fashions, Go Go International, and Newtimes Group, among others. The exhibition also hosted overseas buyers from 10+ countries who engaged in fruitful meetings with participants during the 3-day event.

In addition to the exhibition, two special forums, Intex Textile Conclave (ITC) and Interactive Business Forum (IBF), provided platforms for business leaders and domain experts to present insights, exchange ideas, and unlock business opportunities. The Intex Textile Conclave (ITC) ,conducted by DFU I FashionatingWorld as Knowledge Partners, focused on the theme "Fibres of Fashion: Reimagining the Future of Textiles," featuring eminent speakers discussing topics such as 'Mapping India’s Fiber Market on a Global Canvas,' 'Fibres of the Future,' and 'Fabrics of Fashion & Functionality.' The Interactive Business Forum Seminar Series included a trends workshop by leading trends forecasting agencies WGSN from the UK and Fashion Snoops USA, as well as a session on the role of artificial intelligence in textiles and apparel.

Endorsed by leading industry trade bodies and business chambers, including CITI, The Textile Association (India) Delhi Unit, TEA, NAEC, GEAR, OGTC, DHMA, GCCI, and NCR Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Intex India marked its success as a premier international textile sourcing show in South Asia.

The organizers proudly announced that all three editions of Intex held this year in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and India saw the participation of more than 400 exhibitors from 12+ countries. These exhibitions attracted over 10,540 domestic and international trade buyers from 20+ countries, showcasing the event's global significance. 

The next editions of Intex – The Premier International Textile Sourcing Show of South Asia – are scheduled to take place in Dhaka, Bangladesh, from 30th May to 1st June 2024, and in Colombo, Sri Lanka, from 7th to 9th August 2024.

Garment, textile, and apparel exports are projected to rise 2% to $1.33 billion by mid-2024, according to the Foreign Buyers Association of the Philippines (FOBAP). 

Amid challenges from global conflicts, FOBAP explores new markets in South America and the Middle East. 

FOBAP eyes increased demand for basic wearables and high-end garments. 

The 2% growth relies on government initiatives, including more free trade agreements and addressing high power costs. 

Extension of the EU's Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) is expected to bolster revenues for the sector.

In a setback for Pakistan's economy, textile exports witnessed a 5.43% MoM decline, totaling $1.37bn in November 2023. 

Year-on-year figures also reflected a 3.52% decrease. Notably, the 5MFY24 cumulative textile exports dropped by 10.14% YoY. 

However, a silver lining emerged as the overall current account balance showed a $9 million surplus, breaking a streak of four consecutive monthly deficits. 

Textile products remained the country's primary export, comprising 50.31% in November, with key categories like Knitwear and Readymade Garments facing declines. 

Leather exports decreased, while sports goods exhibited a YoY increase but dipped slightly MoM.

American textile and apparel manufacturers are exploring new options to sell their locally made products. As per a Sourcing Journal report, domestic producers are establishing the American market as a hotbed of sustainable innovation. This was particularly highlighted at a US Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) webinar featuring Dr Sheng Lu, Associate Professor and Director, Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delware.  

In 2022, textile and apparel production in the US reached almost $28 billion, shows a report by the US Bureau of Economic Analysis. Similarly, data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) indicates, clothing and fabric exports from the country surged by 12 per cent last year to over $24.8 billion from a decade earlier.

Studies show that shoppers have a favorable view of clothing made in the US, and naturally regard these products as more sustainable and socially responsible. The country has access to the capital, talent and resources needed to foster innovation in the space

While analysing data from global fashion companies’ websites between January 2022 and September 2023, Hannah Laurits observed over 15,000 Stock Keeping Units (SKUs) of US made apparel were developed with recycled materials. Another 6,000 SKUs made with organic fibers were on sale during that period in the U.S. and internationally. 

While US-made sustainable clothing is popular in the domestic market, more than half of the SKUs made with recycled textiles studied during this time period were sold outside of the country to countries in Europe as well as Canada. The percentage was even higher for clothing made with organic materials, revealing foreign shoppers’ favorable views of the US as a source of sustainable fashion. 

Slowdown in the Indian textile and apparel sector has kept worker wages flat over the past year with the impact varying across unit sizes.

In garment factories in Tiruppur, workers’ salaries declining by almost one third of last year. Export units in the city have reported 40 per cent job loss in the last six months with export orders declining to 60 per cent, says PR Natarajan, General Secretary, All India Trade Union Congress.

Garment factories in Bengaluru are facing labor shortage with workers’ switching to jobs at either shopping malls or metro rail stations. With 90 per cent of the workers in these factories being women, jobs with better pay and no harassment are being preferred, adds VPRukmini, President, Garment Workers’ Union. 

Having lost their jobs, workers in Karnataka are moving to other states like Gujarat and Telangana, states PradeepNatarajan, Mill Owner, Coimbatore. 

The textile sector in these states currently faces lack of orders, slump in rates for fabric weavers and spinners, and import of value added products. As per a study by the Textile Committee, the sector lost 2.14 lakh jobsfrom 2015-2020as exports declined while imports surged.

The industry also suffers frominsufficient data on the impact of the slowdown in the post COVID year; vast differences in labor profiles and systems between organised and unorganised sectors; migration of workers to better paying jobs and lower labor costs is other textile exporting nations.

R. Karumalaiyan, National Secretary, Centre of Indian Trade Unions, avers, the sector suffers from lack of Unionisationand insufficient data for the industrial surveys. It needs to address the needs of both its resident and migrant workers, adds Karumalaiyan. 

To protect local textile producers, the Nigerian Customs Service plans to ban the sale of secondhand clothes, popularly called Okrika or Gwanjo in local parlance in Nigeria.

According to a report by Al Jazeera, almost 80 per cent of the Nigerian apparel market is filled with secondhand clothes illegally shipped into the country from neighboring states. 

As per the database with UN Comtrade, Ivory Coasts imports around 13,066 tonne of secondhand clothes while Ghana imports 79,963 tonne.

Poor people in the region prefer to buy secondhand clothes as they are relatively cheaper and of better quality. The clothing items most in demand include men’s shirts, ladies cotton dresses, men’s cotton pants, men’s underwear, ladies chiffon dresses, and ladies’ t-shirts.

As per estimates, over 200 people in the country are directly or indirectly involved in the business of second-hand clothing. The trade helps stimulate the local markets and generate employment opportunities, says Malam Ibrahim, Senior Lecturer, Department of Marketing, Kaduna Polytechnic. 

The trade also helps Nigerian individuals improve their standard of living by providing affordable clothing options, he adds.

However, the invasion of secondhand clothes in the Nigeria apparel market is stifling the domestic industry leading to job losses and reduced opportunities for local manufacturers. Besides, the transportation and processing of secondhand clothing items also contributes to pollution by generating greenhouse gas emissions. The government can help prevent this by restricting the import volume or introducing minimum quality standards for them, adds Ibrahim.