In a bid to celebrate excellence and innovation in the global textile sector, the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) announces the launch of the ITMF Awards 2024. 

This prestigious event features three distinct categories: the ITMF Sustainability & Innovation Award, the ITMF International Cooperation Award, and the ITMF Start-up Award. Companies and organizations eager to showcase their contributions are invited to submit applications by April 30, 2024.

The spotlight will shine on the winners during the ITMF Annual Conference 2024, slated for September 8-10 in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Notably, victorious entities will have the platform to present their innovative projects at this esteemed gathering.

Founded in 1904, ITMF serves as a global nexus for the textile and related industries, boasting a membership that spans more than 40 countries and encompasses nearly 90 per cent of global production. 

The Lenzing Group, a global leader in specialty fibers for textiles and nonwovens, has reaffirmed its commitment to corporate transparency and climate action by earning a coveted spot on CDP's prestigious ‘A’ List for the third consecutive year. Out of more than 21,000 evaluated companies, Lenzing is among the elite ten achieving a triple ‘A’ rating for its performance in climate change mitigation, forest conservation, and water security.

CDP, renowned as the gold standard in environmental reporting, acknowledges Lenzing's alignment with the Task Force on Climate-Related Financial Disclosures (TCFD) and its significant contribution to fostering a sustainable, zero-carbon economy. With over 740 financial institutions representing trillions in assets leveraging CDP data for investment decisions, Lenzing's recognition underscores its pivotal role in driving environmental stewardship across industries.

Stephan Sielaff, CEO of the Lenzing Group, expressed pride in the company's sustainable initiatives, emphasizing the collective efforts of Lenzing's workforce in advancing sustainability goals. Sielaff highlighted Lenzing's relentless pursuit of a circular business model, emphasizing the need for industry-wide collaboration to effect meaningful change.

CDP CEO Sherry Madera commended Lenzing and other A List companies for their commitment to environmental transparency and urged continued action towards achieving a net-zero, nature-positive future. Recognizing the importance of comprehensive data in driving sustainability strategies, Madera underscored the pivotal role of A List companies in catalyzing industry-wide transformation.

Lenzing's sustainability strategy, anchored in decarbonization, responsible sourcing, and circularity, aligns with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Through sustainable raw material procurement and investments in renewable energy, Lenzing remains steadfast in its pursuit of environmental excellence.

The forthcoming publication of Lenzing's Annual and Sustainability Report 2023 on March 15, 2024, will provide a comprehensive overview of the company's sustainability progress and future commitments. 

The Indian Textiles & Clothing (T&C) sector, a significant contributor to the country's exports, is poised for further growth with the extension of export promotion schemes. Despite challenges, including the recent Covid-19 pandemic, the sector maintained its position, contributing approximately 8.0 per cent to India's overall exports.

During the fiscal year 2021-22, the sector experienced a notable surge in exports, attributed to pent-up demand following the second wave of the pandemic. To sustain this momentum and enhance global competitiveness, the government has implemented various measures, including revising existing export schemes such as Duty Drawback, IES, RoSCTL, and RoDTEP.

A key initiative is the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) Scheme, which aims to refund blocked duties and levies on export products, ensuring a level playing field for Indian exporters in international markets. Originally set to expire on March 31, 2020, the scheme has been extended multiple times and is now valid until March 31, 2026, following approval by the Union Cabinet.

SK Sundararaman, Chairman of The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), commended the government's decision, emphasizing its importance in sustaining the competitiveness of Indian textile exporters. He highlighted the scheme's role in facilitating long-term export contracts and supporting exporters amidst challenges such as declining foreign buyer orders due to economic recessions in key markets like the EU.

Furthermore, Sundararaman noted the scheme's benefits for exporters importing fabric, a major raw material, through the Advance Authorization Scheme. He underscored the significant enhancements under the RoSCTL scheme, which provide increased refunds for various textile products, fostering growth and enabling the sector to work towards the government's ambitious export target of USD 100 billion by 2030.

The extension of the export supportive scheme not only bolsters the textile industry but also signals a visionary approach to attract investment and generate employment opportunities, reinforcing India's position as a global textile hub.

Green Theme Technologies (GTT) is revolutionizing the Japanese textile industry with its PFAS-free and water-free EMPEL textile finishing platform. EMPEL offers unparalleled performance and long-term sustainability, attracting the attention of key players like YKK, a global leader in zipper manufacturing.

YKK has already integrated EMPEL technology into its manufacturing process and is promoting it globally through its new DynaPel collection. The innovative solution not only enhances performance but also aligns with the growing demand for eco-friendly alternatives in the textile market.

GTT's expansion into Japan is facilitated by the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), underscoring the government's commitment to fostering international trade and investment. Approved for JETRO's Invest Japan Support Program, GTT is poised to establish a presence in Japan, leveraging the J-Bridge Program to cultivate partnerships with local stakeholders.

Martin Flora, GTT's President of Business Development, emphasizes Japan's reputation for innovation and quality in textiles. He highlights EMPEL as the natural choice for Japanese manufacturers seeking clean, high-performance solutions for water repellency, stain resistance, and anti-wicking properties.

YKK's adoption of EMPEL in its DynaPel water-repellent zipper reflects the industry's shift towards sustainability and innovation. Recognized with the prestigious ISPO Textrends Best Product Award, YKK's innovative approach eliminates the need for PU film, enhancing usability and compatibility with garment recycling systems.

GTT's collaboration with Japanese industry leaders signifies a significant step towards a more sustainable and competitive textile landscape, demonstrating the potential for green technology to drive positive change on a global scale.

A major player in home textiles, flooring and advanced textiles, Welspun Living has appointed Sunil Duggal as an independent director, effective January 31, 2024.

 A highly accomplished leader, Duggal boasts a distinguished career spanning decades, most notably his 17-year tenure as CEO of Dabur India, making him the company's longest-serving CEO.

A graduate of BITS Pilani and IIM Calcutta, Duggal is an expert in consumer-centric leadership and brand building. He has held several leadership positions at Dabur, and has also chaired prominent committees like the Indo-Turkish JBC and the FICCI Committee on Food Processing. His achievements include being recognised as ‘FMCG CEO of the Year’ thrice and receiving the ‘Distinguished Alumnus Award’ from IIM Calcutta.

Dipali Goenka, Managing Director and CEO, Welspun Living says, Duggal’s consumer-centric approach and experience in building strong brand connections perfectly resonate with Welspun's goals. His appointment signifies a significant step for Welspun Living, bringing onboard a leader with a proven track record and valuable insights to fuel the company's future endeavors.

The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme, a government initiative to boost domestic manufacturing, has got mixed results in the Indian textile and apparel industry. While ambitious in its goals, the scheme's adoption by industry players has been sluggish, raising questions about its effectiveness in this crucial sector.

PLI in textiles: A promising start, stuttering steps

Launched in September 2021, the PLI scheme for textiles offered incentives worth Rs 10,683 crore over five years for investments in man-made fiber (MMF) apparel, fabrics, and technical textiles. The aim was to attract investments of Rs 19,000 crore and increase production by Rs 3 lakh crore. Initial response seemed positive, with major players like Reliance Industries and Welspun expressing interest.

However, implementation hurdles and industry concerns have dampened enthusiasm. As of January 2024, only a handful of companies have applied for the scheme, and disbursement of incentives has been slow. As an expert explains, PLI application process is like a labyrinth, especially for smaller players. Simplifying it and offering handholding support are crucial.

And Anita Dongre, Fashion Designer points out the initial PLI scheme focused heavily on MMF, neglecting segments like cotton and home textiles, which are the backbone of our industry. PLI-2 seems like a step in the right direction.

Reasons for the slowdown

Several factors have contributed to the PLI's slow adoption in textiles.

Complex application process: As a stakeholder points out, the application process is like climbing Mount Everest. The documentation is extensive, and approvals take forever. Smaller players like don't have the resources to navigate this bureaucracy.

Stringent eligibility criteria: The minimum investment thresholds are too high for many players. Recovering from the after effects of a pandemic, and they can't risk such large investments without a clear guarantee of returns.

Unclear incentive calculation and disbursement: Moreover there's a lot of ambiguity about how the incentives are calculated and disbursed, points out a textile industry consultant. This lack of transparency creates uncertainty and delays investment decisions.

Existing infrastructural bottlenecks: Issues like power shortages, unreliable logistics, and high import duties on raw materials are major concerns among textile industry players. These add our production costs and erode the appeal of PLI benefits.

Limited scope of PLI-1: The initial PLI scheme (PLI-1) focused on specific segments like MMF and technical textiles, leaving out major segments like cotton and home textiles, which form a larger part of the industry.

PLI in Textiles (as of Jan 2024)

Some gained while others lost

Despite its drawbacks some companies, rather big players, managed to make the most of the PLI scheme. Reliance Industries for example, received PLI approval for Rs 5,000 crore investment in polyester filament yarn and fabric manufacturing, showcasing the potential for large players. "The PLI scheme provided the push we needed to expand our domestic manufacturing footprint," says a company spokesperson.

Similarly, Welspun applied for PLI benefits for technical textiles, highlighting the interest in niche segments. "The scheme has the potential to boost India's technical textile industry, which has strategic importance," says the company CEO.

However, smaller players remain hesitant due to the perceived complexity and limited applicability of the scheme. "We're hopeful that PLI-2 will address our concerns," says a representative of a textile industry association representing small and medium enterprises.

PLI-2: Hope for brighter prospects

The launch of PLI-2 in December 2023 aims to address industry concerns by broadening the scope and including cotton textiles, home textiles, and select apparel segments. PLI1 scheme excluded cotton textiles, a major concern for this segment, which accounts for over two-thirds of the industry's production. However, PLI-2 has corrected this. Similarly, home textiles segment, known for its export potential, was initially left out. PLI-2's inclusion offers an opportunity for growth. The complex application process and high minimum investment thresholds pose challenges for smaller players, who are the lifeblood of the industry. PLI-2's relaxed criteria offer some hope.Reducing paperwork and streamlining approvals will work for its benefit. Offering special incentives for smaller players with lower investment thresholds and higher incentive rates in PLI-2 will help in greater adoption.

However, experts are cautiously optimistic about PLI-2's impact. As an expert points out "PLI-2 addresses some key concerns, but the success hinges on its implementation. Timely incentive disbursement and addressing infrastructural bottlenecks are crucial." On similar lines Radhika Chopra, Economist says, the broader scope of PLI-2 has the potential to attract wider participation, but its effectiveness depends on attracting large investments, especially in areas like cotton textiles.

They also suggest for better implementation certain steps need to be take like: streamlining the application process and eligibility criteria; ensuring timely and transparent incentive disbursement; addressing infrastructural bottlenecks and reducing import duties on raw materials; handholding support to smaller players.

Learning from others

India's PLI scheme draws inspiration from similar initiatives in other countries. For example, China's Made in China 2025 plan has been successful in boosting its textile industry, but concerns about labor practices and environmental impact exist. And Vietnam's textile industry has grown rapidly due to free trade agreements and a supportive government, but infrastructure challenges remain. India too can learn from these examples by focusing on ethical and sustainable practices; investing in infrastructure development; creating a skilled workforce.

The textile and apparel industry is crucial to India's economy, employing millions and contributing significantly to exports. A well-designed and implemented PLI scheme has the potential to boost the sector's competitiveness and create jobs. Addressing industry concerns, ensuring a smooth implementation process, and learning from global examples are crucial steps to ensure the PLI scheme's success. Only then can it truly weave a story of growth and transformation for India's textile industry.

SP Apparels (SPAL), a prominent player in the apparel manufacturing and export industry, has sealed a significant deal to acquire 100 per cent ownership of Young Brand Apparel Private (YBAPL), a subsidiary of Bannari Amman Spinning Mills. Valued at Rs 223 crore, this strategic move underscores SPAL's ambition to broaden its product offerings and expand its market reach.

The acquisition involves SPAL acquiring a 51.3 per cent stake in YBAPL from Bannari Amman and committing to obtaining the remaining 49 per cent stake from joint venture partners. To finance this transaction, SPAL intends to utilize a combination of internal funds and external borrowing.

This deal not only allows SPAL to diversify its product range but also enhances its manufacturing capabilities with the inclusion of YBAPL's garment unit in Palladam and the additional land and building assets located at SIPCOT. These assets are poised to bolster SPAL's manufacturing capacity, laying a solid foundation for future growth and expansion initiatives.

Established in December 2006, YBAPL specializes in the production and export of Intimate Wear, catering to renowned brands such as American Eagle, Jockey International, Marks & Spencer, and Benetton. Its presence extends across key global markets including the US, UK, Japan, and Canada.

P Sundararajan, Chairman and Managing Director of SPAL, emphasized the strategic significance of the acquisition, noting its alignment with SPAL's vision to venture into diverse textile and apparel segments. He highlighted the potential synergies in terms of customer base and product offerings, particularly in penetrating the lucrative US market.

YBAPL's robust financial performance, with reported revenue of Rs 329 crore for the fiscal year ending March 31, 2023, further underscores the attractiveness of this acquisition for SPAL. This move not only strengthens SPAL's export portfolio but also sets the stage for sustainable and resilient business growth in the competitive global marketplace.

Technical textiles leader Garware Technical Fibres reported a 25 per cent increase in pre-tax profits (PAT) to Rs 180.2 crore for the first nine months of FY2024.

On a Q-o-Q basis, Garware Technical Fibers’ net sales during the quarter increased by 5 per cent to Rs 289.4 crore, profit before tax rose by18 per cent, and net profit jumped by 18 per cent compared to Q3 FY2023. 

The company remained challenged by international logistics disruptions during the quarter. It reported strong growth in the Geosynthetics business and maintained margins across all segments.

Vayu Garware, Chairman and Managing Director expressed optimism for Q4 due to a robust global aquaculture order pipeline. However, he cautioned the company about potential material delivery challenges in Europe and South America.

Overall, Garware Technical Fibres’ strong order book and focus on margin improvement paint a positive picture for the future.

Scoop, the renowned fashion showcase, is poised to reveal an array of captivating Danish designers in its upcoming event, themed 'A Return to Wonderment' at Olympia West, Kensington, from February 11-13, 2024. Partnering with SMVdanmark, Scoop will introduce 21 cutting-edge Danish fashion collections to its dynamic platform.

Karen Radley, Founder and Managing Director, expresses enthusiasm for the influx of Danish talent, citing its high-quality and minimalist allure, perfectly suited to the British market.

Among the highlights, Bitte Kai Rand will present a luxury collection distinguished by its knitting expertise and innovative designs. Esme Studios will showcase slow fashion emphasizing minimalism and functionality, while American dreams offers vibrant mohair knitwear. Charlotte Sparre brings nostalgia with her elegant 50s-inspired collection, featuring luxurious fabrics.

Noteworthy additions include Heyanno's fusion of men's fashion and grunge aesthetics, Selfhood's blend of sophistication and edginess, and Summery Copenhagen's celebration of vivid colors and craftsmanship.

Accessories seekers will be delighted with offerings from Bon Dep and anonymous fashion footwear & accessories, reflecting contemporary and minimalist styles.

Copenhagen-based brands like A Kjaerbede, Picto, and Maanesteen will also showcase their signature Scandinavian designs, alongside a lineup featuring Dawn x Dare's handcrafted styles, Moves' colorful prints, and dedicated's eco-friendly wardrobe.

Scoop promises an edited lineup of around 200 designers, spanning women's fashion, luxury home, beauty, lifestyle, and men's collections, solidifying its status as a must-visit on the international trade show circuit.

Archroma, a leader in sustainable specialty chemicals, and Browzwear, a pioneer of 3D digital solutions for fashion, have amplified their collaboration. The integration of Archroma’s complete Color Atlas library into Browzwear’s platforms promises a game-changing shift in fashion design.

Designers will now wield a robust palette of 5,760 colors, including 1,440 polyester hues, alongside the existing 4,320 cotton poplin colors. This expansion aims to foster seamless collaboration across the supply chain, ensuring color fidelity from digital conception to production across various fabric types.

Notably, the Color Atlas colors adhere to stringent eco-standards, empowering designers to select dyes and finishes aligned with sustainability objectives. Each color standard is accompanied by precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, supplemented by Archroma’s global technical support.

Lars Villumsen of Browzwear highlights the empowerment of their community through access to the industry's largest color library, facilitating transparent, sustainable, and collaborative workflows. 

Chris Hipps of Archroma emphasizes the fusion of Browzwear's digital tools with the expansive Color Atlas, enabling designers to realize their visions while upholding sustainability principles amidst the fashion industry's digital transformation.