Held in early February, the 38th edition of Milano Unica ended on a successful note with international brands expressing their interest in Made-in-Italy fabrics and accessories.

The opening ceremony was graced by Adolfo Urso, Italian Minister of Businesses and Made-in-Italy Manufacturing. During the event, Alessandro Barberis Canonico, Outgoing President, ceremoniously passed the baton to his successor, Simone Canclini.

Simone Canclini, President, Fondazione del Tessile Italiano and CEO, eponymous company established in 1925 in the silk district of Como, is renowned for producing luxury fabrics. For Milano Unica, Canclini produced an excellent product through a seamless continuation of efforts to cultivate growth, particularly within the premium and luxury segments.

During his inaugural address, President Canclini highlighted the two critical factors that contribute to Milano Unica's ongoing success:

The first factor pertains to the exhibitors. Exhibitors at the event represented a diverse array of small, medium, and large enterprises, meticulously selected for their unwavering passion and ability to navigate challenges through innovation.

The second factor revolves around the esteemed visitors, the discerning clients of the industry's finest companies. They attend Milano Unica with confidence, knowing they will encounter collections of exceptional quality.

The central government has announced the extension of the 'Samarth' scheme, a flagship initiative aimed at bolstering capacity building in the textiles sector, for an additional year. The Ministry of Textiles disclosed that the scheme, which was slated to conclude on March 31, 2024, will now continue within the original budget of Rs 390 crore. Approved by the Department of Expenditure under the Ministry of Finance, this decision underscores a dedicated effort to enhance skill development and employment prospects within the textile industry.

Structured as a demand-driven and placement-oriented skilling scheme, Samarth was crafted under the comprehensive skilling policy framework of the Ministry of Skill Development & Entrepreneurship. Its primary goal is to stimulate job creation within the organised textile and related sectors. The scheme encompasses the entire textile value chain, excluding spinning and weaving, and prioritises aligning training programs with dynamic technological and market demands, both domestically and internationally.

Furthermore, the scheme introduces a specialised provision for upskilling and reskilling programs to augment the productivity of existing workers in the apparel and garment segments. This reflects the government's commitment to fostering continuous learning and development in the workforce. Notably, Samarth extends its support to traditional textile sectors such as handloom, handicraft, silk, and jute, addressing their upskilling and reskilling requirements.

Implemented through various partners including textile industry associations, state government agencies, and sectoral organisations of the Ministry of Textiles.

Samarth incorporates advanced features such as a Biometric Attendance System, Training of Trainers, CCTV recording of training sessions, dedicated helpline numbers, mobile apps, Web-based Management Information Systems (MIS), and online monitoring mechanisms. These technological interventions ensure transparency, accountability, and accessibility in the skilling process, making information readily available to stakeholders and the public.

Renowned Swedish furniture giant, IKEA is planning to relocate more of its production operations to Turkey in response to challenges in global supply chains and rising shipping costs. Kerim Nisel, Chief Financial Officer- Turkey, highlights the brand’s intention to manufacture various products locally, such as armchairs, bookcases, wardrobes, and kitchen cabinets, which are currently shipped over long distances from East Asia to markets in the Middle East and Europe.

Nisel emphasises the lessons learned during the COVID-19 pandemic, stressing the importance of diversification in production locations. He underlines the inefficiency of relying solely on manufacturing in one country and then transporting goods worldwide, particularly in light of shipment disruptions experienced during the pandemic.

IKEA already operates seven stores in Turkey and has a robust export business, with exports exceeding imports threefold. The company currently manufactures textile, glass, ceramic, and metal products in Turkey for global distribution.

The decision to shift more production to Turkey aligns with similar moves by other European brands, such as Benetton, which are increasingly decentralising production by expanding manufacturing in regions closer to their main markets.

Turkey's strategic geographic position straddling Europe and the Middle East makes it an attractive location for manufacturing, particularly amid shifts in global supply chains. 

However, despite the advantages of Turkey's location and manufacturing capabilities, challenges persist, notably currency fluctuations. It is difficult to hedge against fluctuations in the Turkish lira, particularly with interest rates exceeding 20 per cent, says Nisel. To mitigate currency risks, IKEA employs short-term hedging contracts ranging from 3 to 6 months, he adds. 

For the upcoming spring 2024 season, Paradised is expanding into the menswear category. The brand is launching new collection featuring T-shirts, cardigans, sweaters, dress shirts, and trousers, priced between $90 and $500.

Sinje Lesemann, Creative Director, says, she had a longstanding interest in venturing into menswear. A rise in the number of male customers purchasing items from the women’s collection gave the brand an opportunity to explore this avenue further.

The collection stays true to Paradised's resortwear aesthetic, incorporating core design elements from its existing line. Lesemann utilised the brand's distinctive Turkish towel fabric for several pieces, such as the Wylie dress shirt adorned with fringe. Additionally, the brand remains committed to sustainability by offering T-shirts dyed with botanical extracts, all of which are crafted in Brooklyn.

Drawing inspiration from workwear, Lesemann introduced structured trousers made from faded gauze fabric. By incorporating workwear influences into its signs but imbuing them with its signature faded gauze, the brand blends functionality and style suitable for both resort and city settings.

Since rebranding from Koza to Paradised in 2018, the brand has experienced steady growth. Lesemann attributes some of this success to strategic collaborations during the COVID-19 pandemic, including partnerships with SoulCycle and Bandier. Looking ahead, the brand is preparing to launch a home collection.