Undergoing a strategic transition under new head Florence Rousson, Première Vision (PV) aims to counter declining attendance and adapt to market challenges.
In the most recent edition, Premiere Vision, held from July 02-04, 2024 in Paris, 8,000 companies from 115 countries reviewed developments from 930 exhibitors. The show faced challenges due to travel disruptions ahead of the Olympics and broader socioeconomic concerns. Rousson, who took over as chair in March, continues to introduce new services like The Cube, an appointment-only service, and a matchmaking program, to connect brands and exhibitors.
Led by Ariane Bigot, Associate Fashion Director, the Cube, facilitated brand sourcing for luxury labels. The service was used by brands like Kenzo, Ferragamo, and Louis Vuitton. The matchmaking program enabled 1,900 meetings, and a €2million hosting program supported by 250 buyers with travel and accommodations.
Despite efforts, attendance remained below pre-pandemic levels, and exhibitors like Piacenza 1733 and LanificioF.lliCerruti opted for smaller shows like Paris Preco. Exhibitors and attendees suggest PV should focus more on innovation, curate sections by price point or quality, and clarify the roles of its regional editions.
Designer Feng Chen Wang, searching for textiles for her fall 2025 collection, found promising innovations in natural materials and lighter wool blends. She appreciated the smaller fair size for easier navigation and noted suppliers' increased willingness to work with smaller houses on order sizes.
PV's partnership with the International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Fashion Accessories in Hyères will end this year, but Rousson plans to continue supporting young designers through collaborations with fashion schools like Paris’ InstitutFrançais de la Mode and Milan’s IstitutoEuropeo di Design. Roussonemphasised the need for a new model that adds value while preserving PV’s core principles.
