The global denim jeans market is adopting organic cotton in a big way. Denim is on a sustainable journey that touches on every step from fiber and dyes, to finishes and trims. In 2019, mills turned their attention to developing indigo-dyed fabrics that consume less natural resources and use efficient finishing technology. Italian denim mill Berto introduced Sky, a new indigo cast that uses pre-reduced indigo, allowing brands to wash down to a lighter shade while using less water and chemicals. And Prosperity Textile was among the mills that dabbled in indigo-free denim with authentic wash-downs. The mill’s collection features a proprietary eco dyeing technology that is aniline-free, hydrosulfite-free and saves 60 per cent water.

Interest in non-traditional colors also widened the playing field for more sustainable dye techniques. Maritas Denim from Turkey showcased a product line made with clay-based pigments. The resulting earth-hued fabrics use 80 per cent less water, 35 per cent less energy and fewer chemicals than traditional dyeing systems. Tonello debuted a 100 per cent eco-sustainable dyeing system that uses only organic and compostable raw materials. The process uses plant and vegetable waste such as flowers, berries and roots, which are dried and infused with no chemical additives.