Major clothing brands, that are members of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) – a governance group promoting high standards in cotton production – are facing a nationalist backlash in China for previous statements on dropping use of Xinjiang cotton over allegations of forced labor in the region.

The call to boycott clothing company H&M (Hennes & Mauritz) erupted after the brand’s rejection of Xinjiang cotton was denounced by the Communist Youth League on Welbo. The Swedish brand was taken down from online stores and disappeared from online maps.

However, China has decided to show restraint on the issue. Hu Xijin, Editor, Global Times, publicly advised state institutions and media accounts to refrain from participating, act with restraint in denouncing the Western businesses, and avoid leading the narrative. The pullback indicates the government’s concern that the boycott may ultimately be too costly to continue, since none of “China-insulting” brands have made apologies despite the pressure.

This is not the first time consumerism has ultimately triumphed over nationalism in China. Despite having been branded as “anti-China” and seeing their contracts terminated by Chinese celebrities, Coach, Versace, Givenchy, Swarovski, and Lancome have picked up new Chinese celebrities as brand ambassadors.