For the first two months of the year imports of denim apparel by the US increased 6.03 per cent. US jeans imports from China grew 1.89 per cent in the first two months of the year compared to the same period last year. China has a 24.15 per cent share of the US denim market. In the same period US imports of denim apparel from Vietnam jumped 35.85 per cent. Jeans imports from Mexico increased 13.03 per cent. Mexico is next to China and has a 21.39 per cent share of the US market.

Imports from the western hemisphere, including Mexico and the countries of the Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA), saw a gain of 9.93 per cent. Among CAFTA countries, Nicaragua’s shipments rose 16.82 per cent for the first two months of 2019 compared to the same period a year earlier. Jeans imports from Guatemala increased 58.94 per cent. But shipments from Columbia fell 14.64 per cent.

Jeans shipments to the US from Bangladesh fell 5.81 per cent. Shipments from Pakistan dropped 7.45 per cent and those from Cambodia fell 13.92 per cent. However imports from Indonesia increased 20.81 per cent. Sri Lanka’s shipments increased 3.63 per cent and shipments from India rose 63.33 per cent.

The global textile colorant market is growing at five per cent. Textiles are used in home furniture such as drapery, carpet, and other furniture. An increasing demand for home furnishing leads to increasing demand for textiles in the market. This, in turn, results in increasing demand for textile colorants, thereby boosting the growth of the global textile colorant market. In regions such as Europe and North America, use of technical textile materials is mandatory for automotive components such as air-bags and seat belts. Markets such as India and China along with Japan are expected to play an important role in driving the demand. This, in turn, is fuelling the textile colorant market growth across the globe.

Textile colorants have a wide application in industries such as apparel, automotive, furniture etc. These industries are growing at a significant growth rate, particularly in developing economies, and the demand for textile colorants in these countries is on the rise. Industrial application is one of the largest segments in the technical textile market and its growth is directly linked with that of industrial production. This is expected to increase demand for various products such as textile auxiliaries and textile colorants. The textile chemical market is a key driving factor for the textile colorant market. Textile chemicals are a class of specialty chemicals that are used in various processes involved in textile and fabric processing.

Shandong province in China has world class advanced textile industry clusters. After decades of development, a complete industrial chain including weaving, printing and dyeing, garment, home textiles has been formed, which has increased its competitiveness and influence in the world. The trillion-level textile and garment industry in Shandong province is not only the pillar of the province’s industrial economy but also a typical representative of the innovation and development of Shandong’s manufacturing industry. In particular, the textile and garment industry clusters characterized by large-scale and intensive development play a very important role in driving local economic development, promoting employment, and building regional brands.

Shandong province has a total of 26 textile and garment industry clusters, ranking fourth in China. The business income of these 26 textile and garment industry clusters accounts for 46 per cent of Shandong province’s income and 18.4 per cent of China’s.

In 2018, China’s textile industry showed a slowdown trend. However, economic indicators such as revenue, profit and exports of enterprises above a designated size have improved. The trend is expected to continue in 2019. Industrial clusters are stepping up their innovation efforts in accordance with the requirements of high-level scientific and technological application, high-level brand development, high capacity for sustainable development, and high-quality talented personnel.

Orta has partnered with Biodesign Challenge which tasks teams from top design schools to create denim products, imagine alternative raw materials, and rethink processes using biotechnology. Denim brand Orta pursues sustainable lifestyles and production. The aim is to create a more robust denim ecosystem where art meets technology meets ethics, for new infinite possibilities of denim today and tomorrow.

By partnering design students with top-tier scientists, the challenge will provide a new platform for envisioning positive and transformational applications for sustainable denim manufacturing, and alternatives to cotton and other natural fibers. The Orta prize for bioinspired textiles processes will be awarded to the team that explores sustainability in the fabrication and treatment of textiles. The challenge asks teams to consider how living processes fit into textile lifecycles, alternative fibers and production. Students will consider how their manufacturing and application affects users, ecosystems, and the environment.

The winning global teams of the Biodesign Challenge will showcase their design models at the Biodesign Summit in New York in front of academic, industrial and design representatives. Awareness about issues around sustainability and ethics is becoming a key concern for many in their apparel purchases—especially for millennials and younger consumers whose purchasing decisions are becoming more discerning.

Gap may have split into the Old Navy division and yet another division consisting of Gap itself, Athleta, Banana Republic, Intermix and Hill City, but all the brands share the same mission. By 2022, Old Navy aims at producing 100 per cent of its denim products with techniques that save water, including proven wash processes like Washwell. The technique, which was used for 60 per cent of Old Navy’s spring ’19 denim range, reduces water use by 20 per cent or more in the product’s garment wash stage compared to conventional techniques.

Under the new sustainability commitments, Banana Republic will begin to use Washwell in its denim production. The company will also utilize more sustainable dye methods, such as foam dye, eco-friendly finishes like bio-softeners and laser technology, and trims made out of recycled materials. Beyond denim, Banana Republic aims at making 50 per cent of all products with techniques that save at least 20 per cent of water by 2025. The brand will also focus on using cleaner chemistry in the supply chain.

Old Navy and Banana Republic will accelerate sustainable product innovation, including adopting more eco-friendly processes for denim. Gap and Athleta had set goals in 2017 and address water use, cleaner chemistry and the sourcing of sustainable cotton or cotton-alternative fibers.

Pakistan is now pursuing an export-led growth strategy. The assumption is that this is the only sustainable solution to overcome the trade deficit in the shortest possible time. The current account deficit is expected to be seven billion dollars at the end of the current fiscal year, down from $17 billion last year. This will be made possible by remittances worth $22 billion. For March 2019, exports are $17.1 billion and imports are $40.7 billion. The country is looking to bring down current account deficit to zero within two years if monetary policy remains tight and exports are encouraged through new investments.

A long term textile policy is being finalized by leading textile exporters, representing the entire value chain. The current account deficit has been a source of concern for the whole industry due to its negative impact on the growth of the economy as well as the industry. Provision of enablers for the restoration of competitiveness through timely interventions by the government has started bearing fruit. Pakistan’s textile exports are likely to cross $14 billion by the end of the current fiscal year. Leading business groups are upbeat other investors are ready to undertake new investment initiatives in greenfield and expansion projects in the textile value chain.

As per Mostafiz Uddinh, Founder and CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, increase in wages and production cost is forcing the country’s garment manufacturers to make value-added products, the country plans to focus on smart clothing. This shift from basic items to value-added ones has to be done slowly with proper planning and execution and the upcoming Bangladesh Fashionology Summit will help facilitate that shift.

The second Bangladesh Fashionology Summit 2019 will be held from May 2, 2019 at the International Convention City Bashundhara in Dhaka. It will strengthen the country’s position to fetch its share in the US $ 130 billion smart clothing market.

To be attended by 41 speakers from 15 countries, the event ‘Digitisation-the Next Destination’-will bring together fashion experts from across the world. In addition to keynotes, exhibits and knowledge-sharing sessions, the summit will also provide a platform for start-ups to showcase their cutting edge innovation in fashion. There will also be a Tech Innovation Zone to exhibit the best of the latest fashion technologies and innovations.

A premature cessation of Accord’s operations in Bangladesh would be a major setback for worker safety in the country. Over the past two months, at least 95 people have died in fires in buildings. The same combination of owners’ negligence of building regulations and authorities’ failure to inspect buildings and enforce regulations that made Rana Plaza possible is still a daily reality in Bangladesh. Authorities fail to notice or act on the knowledge that buildings have no safety licenses, violate building construction rules, have no fire-protected exits and keep many of their emergency doors locked, despite earlier fires.

The 193 Accord signatory companies have a binding obligation to only source from factories where Accord has verified that the fire, electrical, and structural safety remediation process is on track. Cognizant of that obligation, brands have made clear that a premature termination of Accord could endanger the safety of workers employed in the garment industry.

The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh is an enforceable agreement signed by apparel brands and trade unions following the Rana Plaza building collapse of April 2013 that killed 1,134 garment workers. Accord provides independent safety inspections, transparent remediation protocols as well a worker complaint mechanism and training. As a result, unprecedented safety improvements have been made to factories across the country.

"There is growing discontent amongst EU leaders against Pakistan. EU’s home textile manufacturing sector recently accused Pakistan of distorting its textile manufacturing sector with cheap imports, poor quality, and a total lack of respect for labor and environmental rights, conditions which European manufacturers must comply with."

There is growing discontent amongst EU leaders against Pakistan. EU’s home textile manufacturing sector recently accused Pakistan of distorting its textile manufacturing sector with cheap imports, poor quality, and a total lack of respect for labor and environmental rights, conditions which European manufacturers must comply with.

Agreeing to this view, Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, Secretary General of Cotance noted Pakistan was neither fulfilling any of its social obligations nor respecting the core conventions stated as obligatory for these EU trade programs. According to him, there was systematic abuse in both Bangladesh and Pakistan which could prove detrimental to the European industry.

Both Pakistan and Bangladesh benefit from EU trade subsidy programs under the Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP). Pakistan benefits from substantial duty reductions on its exports to the EU, under strict compliance with 27 international core conventions set out in the GSP+ prerequisites. Bangladesh, on the other hand benefits from the less generous, and also less onerous, Everything But Arms (EBA).

GSP+ benefits to Pakistan leads to unfair competition

The European leather industry is impacted with this unfair comparison to Pakistan which has been enjoying the benefits of GSP+ since 2014. The country has become highly competitive in leather sector with leather products growing to be its second-largest export-earning sector. It is therefore, important to discuss the effects of GSP+ on the European leather industry.

In a written question to the European Commission recently, Lithuanian Member of the European Parliament, Petras Auštrevičius from the Group of the Alliance of Liberals and Democrats for Europe raised Europe’s concerns about workers’ rights in Pakistan, specifically relating to the leather and textile sector. He questioned the European Commission’s decision to grant GSP+ to a country that does not respect the prerequisite 27 core conventions thereby, jeopardising the EU textile and leather sectors. He also quizzed the Commission about its initiatives to prevent unfair competition as a result of this GSP+ grant.

European Commission supports Pakistan

Replying to this accusation, Trade Commissioner Malmström, on behalf of the European Commission, highlighted the Commission had published its Midterm Evaluation of the Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP) Regulation in October 2018. The study had analysed the impact of textiles and leather imports from Pakistan on EU industry, concluding that though it may harm some producers, others will benefit from the opportunity to manufacture their goods outside of the EU and import them under GSP.

The European Commission aims to support these countries in meeting their commitments and strengthentheir cooperation with the United Nations and International Labour Organisation through GSP+ monitoring. The Commission believes that Pakistan justifies its GSP+ status as it is making sufficient progress in key areas.

It is indeed surprising that the European trade commission holds such views. His view that European industries may benefit from manufacturing their goods in a country that has dismal record of labor standards and is currently on the terrorism financing list, is thought-provoking.

There have been several innovations in the active wear segment, especially in fabrics. Brands are using fabrics with innovative features such as moisture wicking properties and an ability to protect against UV radiation besides offering freedom of movement.

The knitted three-layer high pile can either be used as an inner lining or as a decorative accent on the outer face. The pile keeps pile fibers firmly in place without spending extra time and effort on lamination. This simplifies the production process besides lightening the fabric, making it ideal for athleisure applications. This helps manufacturers save time and money, without sacrificing quality. Also, each of these layers can use a different material type — for example, a soft cotton lining and a UV protective fabric shell — optimizing function and comfort for outdoor sport enthusiasts.

Intarsia fabrics retain their vibrant colors and patterns for much longer, since the design is knit into the fabric itself rather than just pasted on the top. As brands are looking for new ways to embed their logos into athletic gear — and designers remain on the lookout for techniques that can create a unique look — intarsia is likely to make a big impact in the 2019 athleisure market.