The sustainable textile material company Spinnova and VF brand Icebreaker® have collaborated to developcircular midlayer products with next-generation blends of merino wool and the highly sustainable Spinnova® fiber that can be recycled again and again.

Spinnova and Icebreaker have begun their joint sustainability journey by entering a product development agreement on Spinnova-merino wool midlayer materials that will have a minimal environmental footprint and high performance. The blend Spinnova and Icebreaker are now piloting for midlayer products is sustainable and comfortable, and also fully circular. After consumer use, the developed yarn is intended to be separated and reused, with the ambition to get one step closer to circularity and lowering the products’ impact on the environment.

Icebreaker is an industry sustainability pioneer with ambitious sustainability goals including abandoning the use of plastic fibers by 2023. In 2020, already 91 percent of Icebreaker’s materials were merino or plant-based. This partnership is a great match between Icebreaker’s high sustainability standards and Spinnova’s innovation that aims to transform the way textiles are made globally.

The sustainable and fully circular Spinnovafiber is made without harmful chemicals. The fiber uses 99.5-percent less water and produces nearly 64.5-percent less carbon dioxide emissions than cotton production cradle to gate. Thanks to the mechanical process Spinnova uses to harness its raw material, wood pulp, the fibres can simply be remade mechanically, again without harmful chemicals or quality loss. It also has strong insulation properties, and will be a great companion for merino wool.

Maryam Naebe from the Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM), Deakin University, Australia has been awarded the 2021 Discover Natural Fibers Initiative Innovation Award alongwith her team. As per an IWTO report, Dr Naebe was awarded for creating a special light-weight nonwoven textile fabric from a blend of virgin and waste wool fibers to use as an insulator in automobiles.

Most insulators currently used in automotive applications are made from petroleum-based polyester, polyethylene, and polystyrene molecules, but leading car manufacturers are moving towards replacing interior materials with lighter-weight and biodegradable natural fiber options.

The wool insulator material qualifies for Reuse-Recycle and Reuse–Recover purposes at the end-of-life of vehicles. Dr Naebe is currently a Senior Research Fellow at the IFM, Deakin University in Australia. She received her Ph.D. from the university in 2009 in materials science, and has since then worked in the area of fiber science and functional materials. Her research focuses on sustainability-inspired innovation using waste materials and adding value to natural fibers and biomass for sustainable industrial applications.

The chemical protective clothing market is set to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 9.1 per cent from 2021-26, reveals a report by Performance Apparel Markets from the global business information company Textiles Intelligence. Growth will be driven partly by the expectations of rapid industrialization in many parts of the world and partly on expectations of significant growth in the number of life-threatening incidents involving hazardous materials, including chemical, biological, radiation and nuclear (CBRN) emergencies, outbreaks of disease and industrial accidents.

Another major factor driving growth would be the continuing COVID-19 pandemic and increased pressure on employers to provide suitable personal protective equipment (PPE) to workers. Transportation of hazardous materials in the US will also boost this growth along with a growing threat of cyber attacks which could cause chemical leaks or explosions.

Product innovations will play a pivotal role in driving market growth -- including those based on integrating smart technologies into chemical protective ensembles which will enable wearers to optimize their performances by quickly gauging their workplace hazards and their own physiological states.

A study commissioned by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH with support from BGMEA advocates Bangladesh to capitalize on the country’s reputation as a compliant and certified trading partner to EU and US markets. Titled, ‘Feasibility Study on Scaling up the Production of Technical Textiles’ (TT), the study says, sustainable growth and value addition can be achieved if the textile and garment sector of Bangladesh expands towards the production of Technical Textiles (TT) and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).

Throughout the years, Bangladesh has been a leading global supplier of textile and garments. It needs to maintain its position despite the ongoing pandemic, the study adds. Once Bangladesh has built its confidence and reliability in the new product sector of TT and PPE, advanced technologies can be introduced, it says These will help to diversify and sophisticate the product portfolio, offering greater profit margins, opines BGMEA.

The German development cooperation, namely the GIZ textile cluster, is capacitating local stakeholders to tackle some of these challenges. Outlining the successes of GIZ interventions in textile and garment sector, Achim Tröster German Ambassador assured continued support.

Ravi Sam, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has urged Prime Minister Modi to stabilize cotton prices that have surged to peak levels in the last 11 cotton seasons, especially in the international market. Sam said, the New York Futures Index that used to hover around 70 to 80 cents per pound is now ruling around 110 cents thus creating a panic situation and uncertainties in the business of cotton textiles & clothing products. NYF increased 25 per cent in the last 15 days. Indian cotton prices, though currently attractive due to comfortable closing stock position, have ncreased from Rs 41,900 per candy during December 2020 to Rs 57,000 per candy during the first week of October 2021 (Sankar-6 variety), he added.

India’s 2021-22 cotton season, which started with an opening stock of over 100 lakh bales, is likely to produce around 355 lakh bales, consume around 330 lakh bales, import around 10 lakh bales and thereby leave around 135 lakh bales for export and the carry over stock, Sam explains. India’s exports may exceed 100 lakh bales in the current season due to US sanction on Xinjiang Chinese cotton that accounts 10 per cent of the world cotton production resulting in not only shortage of cotton but also abnormal speculation in the cotton market.

Sam appealed to the Prime Minister to introduce an innovative Cotton Procurement and Trading Scheme for CCI by providing government funding to procure around 15 per cent of the cotton that arrives in the market during the season. This will enable the corporation to create a strategic stock for price stability, sell the cotton only to the actual users in a staggered manner till the end of the season and maintain some buffer stock for the next season, he added.

Third quarter sales of French luxury group LVMH's fashion and leather goods division rose strongly even as the group’s overall revenue growth in Asia and the United States eased due to its stellar first-half performance. Sales of LVMH’s fashion and leather goods division rose to 24 per cent during as star labels Louis Vuitton and Dior gave a boost to business. Revenues from the division rose 38 per cent above pre-pandemic levels at the end of the quarter.

The company showed a marked improvement in performance in Europe in the third quarter, even without deep-pocketed visitors from Asia, as local travel resumed over the summer. Revenues from the US grew 28 per cent while those in Asia grew by 12 per cent. The group did not face any supply chain issues given its manufacturing is largely based in Europe and also brushed off concerns about rising shipping costs, noting that the group has sufficient margins to cope.

Overall like-to-like sales rose 20 per cent to £15.51 billion ($17.90 billion) in the three months to September. Jean-Jacques Guiony, Chief Financial Officer, said the company would continue to focus on broadening the appeal of its blockbuster acquisition, US jeweler Tiffany, by refocusing its product assortment and ongoing marketing efforts.

Elleti Group presented its ‘Green Replicants’ project at the Denim Premiere Vision. The leading Italian manufacturer presented ways the industry processes can be re-imagined in a greener way, in the pursuit of its mission to drastically change the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

Inaugurated a few years ago, the ‘Green Replicants’ project recreates some iconic pieces from the Elleti Group Museum of Denim with today’s most advanced environmentally sustainable technologies. This special edition replicas are fully developed in two surprising versions: one using a selection of ultimate green solutions part of Elleti’s specialty technologies – the most important ones being laser, ozone, ice-blasting, nanobubble technology and new, non-harmful chemical products, which are the highest expression of the company’s Earthkeepers project – and one realized with the latest addition to the sustainable tools of the company: the “Wiser Wash” technology, a patented washing method that eliminates the use of all potentially harmful chemicals and pumice stone, while drastically reducing the water consumption throughout the process.

Italian Exhibition Group’s B2B trade show, Fimast 2021 will feature the entire hosiery supply chain including yarns, production technologies, machinery, services and accessories. Scheduled from October 19-22, 2021, the trade show will feature new products, innovative services and advanced technological solutions.

As per a Knitting Industry report, confirmed exhibitors will include numerous leading companies such as Lonati Group. A world leader in textile machinery sector, the Brescia group will be at the fair with two companies: Lonati, the technological and market leader in the manufacture of hosiery machines that boasts the largest range of systems for the sector on the market, and; Santoni, a global leader in electronic circular machines for seamless garments, which satisfies 95 per cent of the world demand for underwear, sportswear, beachwear, outerwear, medical wear and knitted outerwear.

Cesare Colosio, a Brescia-based company which has been manufacturing socks machinery for 60 years, will showcase innovative and unique machines for the production of 3D inlay footwear. The company has obtained seven different patents on mechanical systems and textile processes to produce the upper, in order to protect its know-how in Italy and abroad

Autotex Italia, a leading producer of ironing machines and industrial packaging machines for the hosiery sector will also be present at the exhibtion. The Borgosatollo based company designs and manufactures a wide range of packaging machines for textile items, as well as components related to the biomedical, cosmetic and automotive sectors. The company offers flexible and customized automation solutions based on customer needs.

The Mantuan Company will present all of its production, from spool yarns of all materials and colors. These will include eco-friendly nylon or polyester yarns from pre-consumer and post-consumer recycling process.

Held from September 20-24, 2021, the face to face x digital hybrid show Premiere Vision Paris, showcased the Autumn/Winter 2022-’23 fashion trends comprising bright colors, patterns, flamboyant prints and large-scale motifs in the trend areas. The exhibition’s digital market platform showed rows of different knitted swatches in various colorways, several with high proportions of fine wool like 80 per cent wool /20 per cent polyester. Knitted jacquard fabrics and jerseys were seen in grouped collections from Portugal, France and individual mills from Turkey and China.

Classic suit collections were displayed by a good number of luxury British and Italian exhibitors revisiting classics, adding touches of colour and changing the size of checks and designs. Smart Creation, the eco-based section of Premiere Vision, included developments in tracking by testing DNA, one of the advances in this area. In another initiative, HarrisTweed Hebrides and British Wool are partnering to launch authenticated and traceable wool to the market with tech company FibreTrace.

Once renowned as ‘category killers’, fashion retailers Gap and Benetton now face an uncertain future with Gap closing all its stores across the UK and Ireland, and Benetton no longer being in demand. However, the brands continue to inspire fashion lovers across the world with their rich history wrote Thomas R Bukley in the article ‘How clothing giant Gap and Benetton once ruled the fashion street’ first published in The Conversation.

Founded in 1969 by Donald Fisher, Gap, from its inception, focused on its target consumer group. The brand aimed to attract college students and the counterculture generation, and opened its first store near the San Francisco State University. Gap initially sold records to attract customers. These were priced moderately and had enough potential to lure customers. The brand is credited with changing the way Americans shopped and dressed. It was instrumental in leading their change from denims to khakis and T-shirts. By redesigning stores, Gap focused on offering a few products at affordable prices at convenient locations. It also adopted new technologies to control inventory which enabled to satisfy customer demand.

Meanwhile Benetton opened multiple stores in local markets during the 1970. This helped the brand generate high sales volume, and manage distribution network more efficiently.

Bright colors, tight inventory keys to Benetton’s success

Bukley explains, a key quality that sets Benetton apart from competitors is its bright color palatte. The brand dyes garment at the last minute which helps it to be flexible and make alterations as per demand. Also, Benetton uses a sophisticated mechanism to control inventory and organize suppliers’ network. Most of the brand’s suppliers are located in Northeast Italy which enables it to efficiently plan supplies besides designing and manufacturing clothes as per demand.

Other retailers also tried to emulate Gap’s and Benetton’s strategies. For instance, run by Amancio Ortega, a Spanish clothing manufacturer opened its first Zara store in 1975. It focused on satisfying changing customer demand at speed.

Laying future foundation

Opportunities for retailers to increase Asia sourcing surged with accelerated adoption of new technologies. This also led to the formation of buyer-driven global value chains in the clothing industry. The pioneers of this change were Gap and Benetton who through their focus on convenience and change laid the foundation of future industry. Since then, the power of these two brands has diminished. However, their business approach continues to remain influential.

With rising environmental awareness and e-commerce acceleration, the business acumen of these two companies continues to inspire future generation brands.