FW
UK to hold swimwear show Scoop in Jan
Contemporary designer women’swear trade show Scoop will be held in the UK, January 29 to 31, 2023.
This is a lingerie, swimwear, nightwear, and loungewear show. There will be truly inspirational talent on showcase and innovative designers who are looking at new technologies and processes to produce beautiful fashion. Scoop is renowned internationally for its exclusive presentation and expertly curated edit of fashion designers and labels from the UK and the rest of the world, many of whom select the show as their launch pad.
Recognised by designers, fashion buyers and industry experts as the UK’s leading fashion trade show, Scoop is an exclusive edit of sought-after fashion collections and emerging international designers, many of whom select Scoop as their only trade platform.
Polo Ralph Lauren will showcase anintimates and lifestyle wear range which is backed by sustainable fabrics and innovation. Responsibly sourced, luxurious fabrics and beautiful details will incorporate organic cotton, recycled cotton, and recycled polyester.French lingerie and swimwear brand Huit will present playful colours with each set featuring exquisite details including lace trims, beautiful embroidery or delicate prints.The swimwear collection will introduce timeless shapes and feminine cuts to showcase the female form. Eberjey will present a sensual yet comfortable collection of lingerie and sleepwear designed to promote confidence.
Energy prices hurt Pak textile sector
Curbs on imports along with skyrocketing energy prices have devastated Pakistan’s textile sector.
The textile sector is the country’s main export industry. Some 150 spinning and weaving textile mills have been forced to close down their business in the last five months due to the staggering cost of doing business. This has resulted in the unemployment of at least two million people.
The production cost of the industry has soared by 100 per cent. Due to gas unavailability to industries along with the ban on letters of credit for imports, the textile industry faces a shortage of raw materials. Large-scale manufacturing (LSM) registered a decline of 7.75 percent year on year in October 2022, with the textile, machinery and equipment, and automobile sectors shrinking. Compared to August 2022, the LSM posted an annual increase of 0.1 percent in September 2022. That represented a significant improvement over July 2022, when the LSM dropped by 1.4 percent annually.LSM dipped by 3.62per cent in October 2022 over the preceding month.Moreover, in the July to October period, LSM shrank 2.89per cent compared to the first four months of the previous fiscal year.In the previous fiscal year, large-scale manufacturing grew 11.7per cent year on year.
IFC helps Egypt to develop supply chain
The International Finance Corporation (IFC) will help Egypt in developing a technical and specialized textile supply chain. International Finance Corporation is a finance arm of the World Bank.
Technical textiles, manufactured using natural and manmade fibers, are engineered products with a specific functionality in the agricultural, medical, construction or clothing sectors, among others.The agreement would contribute to creating more export opportunities for Egypt to supply emerging and global markets and aims at attracting $50 million in new investments into the Egyptian market by 2026 by supporting local companies’ ability to fulfill the increasing demand for technical textiles.
IFC will work on increasing the production capacities of local factories to turn Egypt into a link in the supply chain for Arab and other markets.IFC will extend training and consultations to factories as well as the required studies and technical assistance with the objective of merging Egypt into the global supply chains.
Egypt’s total exports increased by 48 per cent in 2021. This was helped by a rise in exports of fuelsfollowed by exports of raw cotton. Egypt’s exports of made-up garments also saw a notable increase. Packaged clothing exports were on the list of the most important Egyptian exports of finished goods and these increased by about 45 per cent.
Cambodia invites textile investors
Cambodia is encouraging investment in textile and textile related factories. This includes garment factories, knitted and non-knitted apparel factories, footwear factories, or umbrella, raincoat, handbag, glove and towel factories.
These projects will be governed by favorable investment laws, have access to a broad range of export markets, preferential tariff treatment from major countries, abundant labour supply, and availability of raw materials for export-oriented production.
Cambodia hopes overall investment inflows will grow as global geopolitical and economic storms pass and if trade rows among influential countries were to be resolved. Cambodia is gradually emerging as a significant manufacturer of general components that are supplied to renowned factories across the world and has been able to draw in plenty of fresh investments even though the global economy has yet to return to strong growth post-Covid.
Cambodia’s apparel exports in the first ten months of 2022 rose by 18 percent. Exports of apparel and clothing accessories (knitted) earnings surged 16 percent compared to the same period in the previous year.The US is Cambodia’s largest export market, accounting for over 40 percent of Cambodia’s total exports. Apparel, footwear, and travel goods make up most of US imports from Cambodia and employ over one million Cambodians, mostly women.
Denim fabrics market grows at four per cent
The market for denim fabrics is growing at four percent a year.
The United States will be the largest market, with India likely to experience the most growth, followed by China and Latin America.The market was 3,299.36 million meters in 2016. It reached 3,576.68 million meters in 2018, 3,429.93 million meters in 2019, 3,737.21 million meters in 2020, and 4,105.64 million meters in 2021.Despite being smaller than China, Latin America, and the United States, India’s market is expected to grow at the fastest rate between 2018 and 2023. India’s market is supposed to arrive at 419.26 million meters in 2023 from 228.39 million meters in 2016. It has the potential to reach 382.49 million meters this year.
The size of the market was predicted to be 349.51 million meters in 2021 and 319.99 million meters in 2020.The US will stay the biggest market on the planet, yet its normal development will be below the worldwide normal. It could increase by two per cent between 2018 and 2023, reaching 876.76 million meters by the end of 2023.China and Latin America may experience average growth rates of 7.31 per cent and 7.34 per cent. From 354.56 million meters in 2016, Latin America’s market will reach 573.24 million meters in 2023.From 305.84 million meters in 2016, China may reach 495.51 million meters in 2023.
Victoria’s Secret stops using cashmere
Victoria’s Secret has removed cashmere from its product line. Previously, Victoria’s Secret decided to stop using Angora rabbit fur and alpaca fleece from its apparel lines.
The brand joins dozens of other companies that have banned cashmere.China and Mongolia are responsible for 90 per cent of the world’s cashmere but the goats in cashmere farms are subject to unethical treatment. Terrified goats are pinned to the ground while workers ripout their hair with sharp metal combs so violently that the animals scream in pain and sustain bloody cuts.
The negative environmental impact of cashmere production is greater than that of any other animal-derived material. Some companies that have moved away from cashmere but want to provide customers a more ethical alternative are using what’s called vegetable cashmere. This is a vegan fabric made from leftover soybean pulp from tofu production. It's biodegradable and pills less than animal-fiber cashmere. Some designers have incorporated a regenerated cashmere made from post-factory cashmere, similarly to how apparel brands have created ways to recycle their own apparel to minimize waste while keeping products affordable. Some have reduced their environmental impact as it pertains to cashmere by 92 per cent by switching to the recycled Re.Verso fabric.
US jeans brand gets new look
American jeans brand for women Daily Blue was first launched nearly 50 years ago. The jeans were made of quality denim and well-constructed.
Now it’s being relaunched using Japanese fabrics, eco-friendly washes and treatments and simple but sophisticated looks that can sit in someone’s closet for years.
The ’70s-inspired luxury denim women’s collection right now consists of 18 to 20 pieces including blue jeans, shirts, jackets, vests and overalls. The washes and treatments, unlike the highly distressed looks of the past, are toned down with the slightest hint of whiskering done with an eco-friendly laser processing.
The blue jeans silhouettes in the new Daily Blue label will range from baggy and flared to wide-bodied and straight-leg.When the brand was first created, it concentrated on the look. This time, the aim is to have a great look that also incorporates sustainable elements and premium fabrics that are more eco-friendly.
The first time Daily Blue was launched designers didn’t have that sense of what they were doing and used products indiscriminately to make a jean look nice. So it would be bleach or even a toxic acid, and nobody was caring. But then decades later the alarm bells went off.
Japanese companies move out of China
Japanese garment companies are shifting their manufacturing and procurement bases from China.
The main reason is rising costs. Major apparel companies, such as Adastria, Aoyama Trading and suppliers of Uniqlo, are moving some of their production bases from China to RCEP (Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership) member countries in southeast Asia such as Cambodia and Vietnam to take advantage of exemptions from textile import tariffs.
The average monthly salary of a factory worker in China is almost double that of an average worker in Cambodia.Other factors such as the depreciating yen are some of the other reasons behind the decision of the Japanese garment manufacturers to move out.
The RCEP that came into effect in January has given several companies a new lifeline. Adastria, operating retail stores under 26 brands, for example, has already increased production in Cambodia and Vietnam this year. Moreover the company also plans to expand production areas to include Indonesia, Bangladesh, and other countries, and increase production in southeast Asia to 50 percent by 2026. Out of Adastria’s total clothing imports into Japan, the number of items produced in China fell to 59 percent in 2021, down from 81 percent a decade earlier.
Wrangler celebrates 75 years
75 years and Wrangler is going srong. Few labels stand the test of time. Even fewer can claim the distinction of being among America’s most enduring denim brands.
In a retail landscape now teeming with direct-to-consumer upstarts aiming to strike gold on Instagram, the company is focused on meeting consumers where they are instead of banking on continued loyalty.This is a brand that has never sat still. Championing innovation, whether it takes the form of new product lines, silhouettes, fabrications or marketing strategy, has been central to Wrangler’s staying power.
The brand was founded, basically, on meeting the needs of working cowboys, filling the need for a jean that could withstand the rugged lifestyle of the West.For Wrangler, durability and value are things that have continued to propel the brand forward, even as times have changed, and fashion trends have come and gone. Wrangler is using the spotlight on Western fashion as an opportunity to broaden its appeal. Wrangler will continue to champion the unique look and feel that has made it beloved over the years, while becoming more accessible to new consumer groups.
From a distribution standpoint, from a price point standpoint, from a geography standpoint, from a diversity standpoint, Wrangler wants to be a brand shoppers can see themselves in.
Despite growing demand for resale, no slowdown in production: Study

Resale’s growing appeal has done little to slow down the problems it is supposed to help solve— overproduction and overconsumption, says retail analytics firm Edited. Despite reports of a glut of inventory while consumers pull back on spending due to the recession, the fashion industry is still overproducing. The study shows new fast-fashion product drops online for men’s and women’s wear average over 47,000 individual styles per week in the US alone. The figure is up 11 per cent from 2021 and 120 per cent from 2020 when production was severely reduced due to Covid.
Allowing customers to resell used goods doesn’t cancel out the impact of the enormous amounts of disposable products continuing to drop. Circularity is a fundamental cornerstone of sustainable fashion, yet against continued overproduction levels, resale alone can’t be the solution. But pre-loved merchandise is booming due to several factors. These include: society’s increasing support for a circular economy, Gen Z’s love for thrifting and the profits a reseller can make by offering rare and limited edition pieces. Resale platforms may offer styles from the archives but they usually sell through before they have the chance to go stale.
Brand play in resale
Some brands shine brighter in the resale market than others. Telfar, is currently the top secondhand brand to give sellers the best return on their overall investment. Its value retention exceeds that of Hermès. Its collaborative pieces with Ugg, Moose Knuckles and Eastpak have great appeal in the secondary sector and its now sold-out large shopping bag is now being hawked on some US sites with a price increase of up to 132 per cent.
However, scarce luxury items are still the sources of the most dramatic markups. Birkin and Kelly bags by Hermès have elevated prices of up to 2,554 per cent across US resale sites and 5,308 per cent in the UK. Old Tom Ford-designed Gucci pieces fetch up to five times their original price in the UK as well.
Interestingly, this phenomenon is not limited to luxury. New Balance shoes command lavish price points. But not all brands perform well as resold items. Secondhand pieces by both Off-White and Diesel can be cheaper anywhere between 48 to 90 per cent compared to their original due to factors such as consumer demand or product quality. However, this is not necessarily to these brands’ detriment. Price-conscious Gen Z consumers can use these deals as a gateway to developing future brand loyalty when they can afford to pay retail.












