San Francisco, May 20, 1873 is one of fashion’s iconic dates that are going to be etched in history forever. On this day, the US saw the birth of blue jeans. Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis obtained a US patent on the process of putting rivets in men's work trousers for the very first time. At that time, the proud inventors of the blue jeans would not have known how this humble bottom wear for manual labourers would not only take the world by storm but also become an enduring and loved clothing item forever. They knew even less that the humble pair of jeans consumes 3,800 litres of water as it journeys from the cotton fields to factories and then on the wardrobe. With the fashion industry being accused of being one of the key players in depleting the earth’s resources and contaminating its surfaces, brands are trying their best to work out innovative solutions. In the case of Levi Strauss & Co, it was their Water Action Strategy. 

Water Action Strategy 2025

Levi Strauss & Co. is aiming to do its part to save as much water as it can, particularly where it matters most, which is through its production processes. In 2019, the brand had announced a new Water Action Strategy where it committed to reduce the amount of water used in manufacturing in highly stressed areas by 50 per cent by 2025, those areas being home to half the world’s population. 

The pledge made through the Water Action Strategy is that the manufacturing units of Levi Strauss & Co in such water-stressed areas will only use as much water as can be naturally replenished. As a  spokesperson of Levi Strauss *& Co mentions, “To this end, we will help all of our key suppliers (representing 80 percent of total product volume) become distinguished Water<Less® facilities by 2025.” In the same communiqué, Liz O’Neill, Executive Vice President and President of LS&Co.’s Global Product, Innovation and Supply Chain said, “The Water Action Strategy announcement is an illustration of what sustainability means to us now: innovative, responsive, scalable programs that drive impact and inspire collective action to address the most pressing social and environmental issues facing our business, industry, and planet.”

Implementing Water Action Strategy

The first changes were innovation in design and manufacturing pipeline, having saved 3 billion liters of water since those changes were undertaken in 2019. Levi’s is using the best available water-stress data to develop manufacturing facility-level targets that addresses local water stress. If a factory or fabric mill meets its target by adherence to sustainable consumption levels appropriate for its local region – then that facility and its products receive the Water<Less® distinction. Through this targeted, contextual approach the brand believes it will make significant progress towards alleviating local water stress where it operates Furthermore, Levi Strauss is helping its key suppliers achieve the Water<Less® designation by 2025, utilizing tools and programs like its existing Water<Less® techniques, its collaboration with the Apparel Impact Institute’s Clean by Design program, and its partnership with the International Finance Corporation’s Partnership for Cleaner Textiles (PaCT).

Blue Jeans Go Green: The denim recycle programme

The Blue Jeans Go Green™ program collects cotton-made denim so that it can be recycled back to its original fiber state and transformed into something new - because cotton is a natural, sustainable fiber, and old and discarded denim can be kept out of a landfill and given a new life. A part of the garment industry’s move towards circularity, Blue Jeans Go Green has made an impact in the US. Since its inception, more than 4.5 million pieces of denim have been collected, over 2,290 tons of textile waste has been diverted from landfills, and more than 9 million square feet of insulation has been manufactured.

Amidst the economic challenges confronting Sri Lanka and the introduction of stringent EU sustainability laws, a transformative shift is underway in the country's apparel sector. With a growing recognition of the need for enhanced compliance processes, companies are turning to certification programs, such as the Worldwide Responsible Accreditation Production (WRAP), to streamline their operations and champion sustainable practices.

Sri Lanka's apparel industry has emerged as a trailblazer in embracing responsible manufacturing. Under the WRAP umbrella, an impressive 27 companies and 112 factory sites have obtained the coveted Worldwide Responsible Accreditation Production Certification. A recent interview with AvedisSeferian, President and CEO of WRAP, commended Sri Lanka's apparel industry for its resilience in the face of economic turmoil and the ongoing pandemic. He highlighted the unwavering commitment displayed by certified companies to uphold social compliance and sustainability standards.

Seferian emphasized the strategic importance of independent certification in the current landscape. As economic uncertainties persist, streamlined due diligence processes are essential. WRAP's comprehensive audit reports and resolutions of non-compliances provide a powerful testament to responsible sourcing practices, making it a compelling alternative to duplicative audits. The proliferation of legislative requirements further underscores the significance of independent programs like WRAP.

The interview shed light on Sri Lanka's substantial progress in embracing Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) criteria. Seferian praised the industry's consistent commitment to social compliance and sustainability, driven by a long-term investment perspective. This approach has led to positive outcomes, as Sri Lankan factories often exceed minimum compliance standards, incorporating worker-benefit initiatives and women empowerment programs.

Yet, challenges persist in the global apparel sector. Seferian identified short-term thinking as a prevailing hindrance to sustainable practices. The pursuit of immediate gains often overshadows long-term investments in social responsibility and sustainability. Overcoming this mindset, particularly in fast fashion, remains a universal challenge.

For future compliance, Seferian highlighted key trends, including the imperative to address forced labor concerns, ensure supply chain traceability, and proactively embrace sustainability. He underscored the role of transparent, independent validation processes and holistic supply chain mapping in creating a responsible industry.

As Sri Lanka anticipates labor law reforms, WRAP's adaptive approach ensures alignment with evolving regulations. Seferian emphasized WRAP's commitment to combating audit fatigue by collaborating with both manufacturers and buyers. The program's emphasis on independent, efficient, and credible audits aims to drive more sustainable practices.

In essence, Sri Lanka's apparel industry is at the forefront of an industry-wide shift towards streamlined compliance and sustainable manufacturing. Through independent certification programs like WRAP, the sector is not only weathering challenges but also paving the way for a more responsible and resilient future.

In 1997, Studio Ghibli's "Princess Mononoke" entranced Japanese audiences, becoming a box office record-breaker. Hayao Miyazaki's masterpiece, renowned for its animation and environmental themes, now teams up with Levi's. The Levi’s x Princess Mononoke collection merges iconic style and enchanting aesthetics, celebrating both brands' attention to detail and artistry.

The film delves into human-nature duality, using hand-painted backgrounds to depict lush landscapes. The collection, featuring denim like the San & Wolf Trucker Jacket and Ashitaka 501 '93 Jeans, seamlessly blends film scenery with denim. Graphic tees and hoodies echo characters' ideologies, mirroring the movie's contrasting moments.

Accessories include a bandana with San's red battle mask, an Ancient Forest Bucket Hat, and San &Ashitaka Tote. Coin bags feature San’s mask and a Kodama face, adding to the enchantment. The Levi’s x Princess Mononoke collection launches on August 10, 2023, available online and in select stores.

Sizekick, a Munich-based startup, has introduced an innovative AI technology aimed at tackling size-related returns in the e-commerce sector. Backed by strategic partner and investor Hohenstein, renowned brands like Black Diamond, Marc Cain, and Rrrevolve have already embraced the tool. By harnessing Hohenstein's apparel expertise and Sizekick's AI capabilities, retailers can provide a more eco-friendly and tailored shopping experience, reducing CO2 emissions.

The system offers personalized sizing recommendations based on individual body measurements through two AI-driven options. BodyFinder presents realistic body shapes for selection, while BodyScanner employs smartphone video scans for precise measurements. Integrating the technology into e-commerce platforms is seamless and swift, granting brands immediate access.

Sizekick's collaboration with Hohenstein, a size and fit authority with 75 years of industry experience, has resulted in a highly accurate and user-friendly solution. Size-related returns and environmental concerns in e-commerce may find mitigation through this pioneering endeavor.

Archroma, a global leader in sustainable specialty chemicals, gained recognition from the Swiss Embassy in Pakistan for its pioneering sustainable initiatives. During an official state visit by Switzerland's Foreign Minister, Ignazio Cassis, to Pakistan on July 9, 2023, Archroma'sCenter of Excellence in Karachi was showcased as a hub of innovation. Mr. Cassis, accompanied by high-ranking officials and Swiss Parliament members, was welcomed by Archroma employees.

The visit encompassed the inauguration of Archroma's "Wall of Pride," a testament to the company's achievements since its inception in 2013. Cassis explored the multi-floor Research & Technology facilities, Analytical Laboratories, and Training Academy. He witnessed ongoing fabric printing and research analyses, underlining Archroma's commitment to advancement.

Central to the tour were Archroma's groundbreaking sustainable practices: the globally acclaimed 'Zero Liquid Discharge Sustainable Effluent Treatment Plant' and aniline-free* indigo production in Jamshoro. These exemplars of sustainable innovation were extensively discussed, emphasizing their potential for industry-wide impact.

Foreign Minister Ignazio Cassis praised Archroma's initiatives, hailing the water-saving and pollution-combatting efforts. CEO of Archroma Pakistan, Mujtaba Rahim, underscored the company's role as a vanguard for sustainable practices, influencing both the industry and local community positively.

India and the United Kingdom are making gradual progress towards formalizing a free trade agreement (FTA), having wrapped up negotiations on the majority of chapters. While both sides have reached a consensus to exclude matters related to data and concessions in the dairy sector from the agreement, deliberations are ongoing regarding potential tariff reductions on automobiles and specific confectionery items. 

Recent visits by Indian officials to London have injected momentum into the negotiations, as they engaged in discussions with senior British counterparts. Presently, the focus lies on resolving a handful of remaining disparities, notably pertaining to investment treaties, intellectual property rights (IPRs), and rules of origin. 

In the context of FTAs, rules of origin carry significant importance, as they determine the eligibility of products for preferential tariff treatment. Within the framework of the proposed India-UK FTA, adherence to specific criteria concerning the processing and value augmentation of goods would establish their "origin" within the respective partner country. 

This safeguard would hinder attempts by nations to merely reclassify goods produced in third countries as originating from India or the UK, with the intent of exploiting the tariff benefits afforded by the FTA. The bilateral trade between India and the UK has displayed consistent growth in recent years, culminating in a figure of $20.36 billion during 2022-23. 

India's exports to the UK encompass a diverse array of goods, including ready-made garments, textiles, gems and jewelry, engineering products, petroleum derivatives, transportation machinery, spices, instruments, pharmaceuticals, and marine merchandise. 

Notably, the UK's foreign direct investment in India surged from $1 billion in 2021-22 to $1.74 billion in 2022-23. Should the envisaged India-UK FTA come to fruition, it holds the potential to significantly amplify trade and investment activities between the two nations. A successful conclusion would mark the UK's first major FTA with an emerging market since the Brexit transition.

Peru's Commission for Promotion of Export and Tourism (PromPeru) is set to lead a delegation of ten prominent Peruvian clothing and decoration brands to make their mark at the esteemed Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF 2023) from August 9th to 11th. 

This milestone marks the first time Peru, under PromPeru's Trade Office in Rotterdam, will have a presence at the event, boasting a substantial 125-square-meter stand. The showcased collections will boast a unique fusion of ancient Peruvian culture and modern sustainable practices. 

Fashioned from locally sourced and biodegradable materials like cotton, alpaca fiber, toquilla straw, shiringa, and paiche (fish) leather, these exclusive creations pay homage to tradition while embracing innovation. 

The lineup of Peruvian brands, including Sake, Fasce, Kero Design, Wisqa, Kuna from Arequipa, Tom Gutie, Kinua, Fringe, Amarena, and Pampa, proudly collaborate with communities in Cusco, Arequipa, Puno, and Amazonas regions, reinforcing the nation's commitment to sustainable fashion. PromPeru's primary objective is to spotlight Peru's distinctive offerings for Scandinavian fashion professionals, international buyers, press, influencers, and sustainable fashion advocates. CIFF, Europe's dynamic and innovative sales platform since 1993, attracts over 2,000 brands to its 60,000 square-meter exhibition space, making it a crucial event for the global fashion industry. 

The participation of Peruvian brands in the Consumer Show runway event on August 7th will kickstart Copenhagen's Fashion Week activities, amplifying the nation's influence in the European fashion sphere. 

Notably, Scandinavian countries dominate the European fashion industry, united under Copenhagen Fashion Week (CFW) and CIFF's umbrella, which harnesses the region's collective talent and creativity. PromPeru's unwavering efforts, coupled with institutional support and technical guidance, have positioned Peru as a sustainable fashion trailblazer in Europe. 

This initiative serves as a decisive response to escalating environmental consciousness in both consumer and corporate spheres, solidifying Peru's role in shaping a greener fashion future.

In recent years, Bangladesh has experienced a remarkable surge in its apparel exports to the European Union (EU), securing a considerable 22.20% market share in 2022. 

This marks a notable increase from 19.80% in the previous year, signifying a significant milestone as Bangladesh overtakes China to become the foremost EU apparel exporter. During the year 2022, Bangladesh accomplished apparel exports worth $22.89 billion to the EU, outpacing China whose exports amounted to $30.15 billion. 

This showcases a remarkable year-on-year expansion of 35.69% for Bangladesh, juxtaposed with China's growth of 17.01%. Faruque Hassan, the president of BGMEA, attributes Bangladesh's robust growth in apparel exports to the EU to a variety of factors, including

Product Diversification: Bangladesh has made impressive strides in diversifying its product range, notably excelling in the creation of high-end and sophisticated items. 

Market Expansion: The country has effectively broadened its market reach, witnessing substantial growth in imports from countries such as Hungary, Cyprus, Malta, Slovenia, Poland, and Denmark over the past five years. 

Competitive Pricing: Bangladesh's apparel manufacturers have made substantial investments in their supply chains, resulting in reduced production costs and enhanced competitiveness in the global apparel industry. 

With a strong sense of optimism, the BGMEA president foresees Bangladesh's continuous expansion in apparel exports to the EU in the years ahead. He envisions Bangladesh eventually becoming the premier sourcing destination for EU apparel, both in terms of value and significance.

Dr S N Modani, Managing Director, CEO, Sangam India is also the Chairman of the Rajasthan Textile Mills Association. With 33 years of experience in the textile industry, he has led Sangam India Ltd. to become a vertically integrated textile conglomerate. He holds a PhD in "Strategic Management Practices for Sustainable Future" and his research benefits strategists, academics, and corporate executives.

Indian textile industry has long been recognized for its rich heritage and vast potential. With a history spanning centuries, textiles have been an integral part of India's economic and cultural fabric. The nation's textile sector has witnessed significant growth and modernization in recent years, positioning it as a prominent player in the global market. Establishing mega textile hubs is crucial to further elevate India's standing as a leading global textile hub. These hubs serve as catalysts for innovation, efficiency and sustainability, propelling India to the forefront of global textile industry.

Mega textile hubs fostering growth

Mega textile hubs concentrate resources, infrastructure, and expertise in a single location, fostering a highly conducive textile manufacturing and trade environment. By bringing together diverse elements of the textile value chain - from raw material suppliers to garment manufacturers and exporters - these hubs create economies of scale and enhance the industry's overall competitiveness. Centralization also reduces logistic complexities and streamlines processes, making India an attractive destination for investors and international buyers.

Innovation is the lifeblood of any thriving industry. Mega textile hubs act as innovation centers, encouraging collaboration among businesses, research institutions, and design studios. This collaborative ecosystem leads to exchanging ideas, technologies, and best practices, facilitating the development of cutting-edge products and processes. By fostering innovation, India's textile sector can diversify its product range, meet global demand, and stay ahead in an increasingly competitive market.

Employment and investment opportunities 

Establishing mega textile hubs generates significant employment opportunities, particularly in rural areas with higher unemployment rates. Skilled workers and artisans find employment in these hubs, and the influx of jobs helps alleviate poverty and promote inclusive growth. Additionally, the presence of training and skill development centers within these hubs ensures the continuous upskilling of the workforce, enhancing their efficiency and expertise.

A robust infrastructure and a favorable business environment attract foreign investors to India's textile sector. Mega textile hubs offer a one-stop destination for international buyers, reducing lead times and costs associated with sourcing. Increased FDI infuses capital into the economy and brings advanced technologies and best practices, further enhancing the industry's capabilities. With these improved production capabilities, India can significantly augment its textile exports and establish itself as a preferred global supplier.

As the world increasingly prioritizes sustainability, the textile industry must adopt eco-friendly practices. Mega textile hubs can lead the charge by implementing sustainable technologies, recycling initiatives, and promoting a circular economy. By adopting green manufacturing practices, reducing waste, and optimizing energy consumption, these hubs can positively impact the environment while attracting environmentally conscious consumers and businesses from around the globe.

Policy and government support way forward

The Indian government plays a pivotal role in developing mega textile hubs. Policymakers must create a supportive regulatory framework that fosters entrepreneurship, encourages private investments, and facilitates seamless operations. Additionally, the government should consider offering incentives and subsidies to promote the establishment of these hubs in underdeveloped regions, fostering balanced regional growth.

With mega textile hubs in place, India can leverage its abundant resources, skilled workforce, and rich textile heritage to emerge as a global textile leader. By offering various high-quality products at competitive prices, India can outperform its competitors and capture a more substantial share of the global textile market. The rise of India as a textile powerhouse will bolster its economic growth and solidify its position on the world stage.

India and Bangladesh have agreed to exclusively employ the rupee for their bilateral trade, strategically aiming to amplify commercial activities while reducing reliance on the US dollar. 

This announcement, made on Sunday, allows businesses to invoice and finalize trade transactions using rupees, promising streamlined processes, lower transaction costs, and smoother interactions between Indian and Bangladeshi enterprises. 

Sanjay Budhia, Chair of the National Committee on Exports and Imports at the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII), noted that this move significantly bolsters economic cooperation between the two nations and promotes regional currency usage over the US dollar. 

This development is expected to stimulate Indian exports to Bangladesh, addressing the existing trade imbalance where Indian imports into Bangladesh exceed Bangladeshi exports to India. By settling trade in rupees, Indian exporters can offer more competitive prices to their Bangladeshi counterparts, potentially boosting exports. 

Moreover, the rupee-centric trade arrangement is anticipated to benefit small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in both countries. SMEs often grapple with foreign exchange challenges, impeding international sourcing. Settling trade in rupees enables SMEs to bypass the need to convert funds, facilitating more cost-effective business transactions. 

Jointly declared by the central banks of India and Bangladesh, this rupee settlement pact is a positive stride, fostering economic ties and diminishing dependence on the US dollar. The development is poised to enhance business interactions and potentially reshape trade dynamics between the two nations, ushering in mutually beneficial economic ties.