Texprocess will be held in Germany, May 14 to 17, 2019. This is a trade fair for processing textiles and flexible materials. Exhibitors will present latest machinery, systems, processes and services for manufacturing garments as well as textile and flexible materials.

The Texprocess forum will offer a wide range of topics and technical impetus for textile processors, users and retailers. On May 14, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies will investigate the impact of digitisation in the garment and textile processing industry and the extent to which the changes triggered by Industrie 4.0 are already part of the value chain. The advancing digitisation of the entire value chain as well as the constantly increasing automation and robotization in processing textiles and flexible materials will also be the main topic at the VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies’ press conference at Texprocess on May 15. Other topics are 3D product development, networks of cutting, handling and software, predictive maintenance, augmented reality as well as new business models supported by big data and artificial intelligence. Companies will provide an up-to-date overview of the next steps in Industrie 4.0 developments in sewing and garment technology as well as in machines for processing technical textiles.

Levi Strauss has undertaken a new denim recycling initiative with the ‘Blue Jeans Go Green’ program. Any type of denim, including scraps or non-jean items like jackets, is eligible for recycling. Blends are, too—though the fabric does need to contain at least 90 per cent cotton. To date, the Blue Jeans Go Green program has recycled more than 2.5 million pieces of denim, to create almost five million square feet of insulation. The denim insulation developed through the program isn’t for sale, but given to charity partners for use in schools and libraries.

The Blue Jeans Go Green initiative, launched in 2006, lets consumers bring denim clothing—from any brand and in any condition—to dedicated recycling bins at partner retailers. The initiative is a key feature for the strategy Levi’s has to hit its sustainability benchmarks. The company hopes to hit major goals around climate impact, chemical applications, and water use, and alter its sourcing, design and manufacturing processes to plan for future circularity. Levi’s also offers consumers several opportunities to extend the life of their denim, in whatever way they can. The brand refashions archive-quality denim for resale in select stores, and at in-store tailor shops Levi’s professionals can repair used garments that might otherwise be wasted.

A breakout session that updates delegates on Higg Index progress and other new developments will feature at the upcoming Planet Textiles summit in Barcelona. The Higg panel is just one part of a full day’s schedule which focuses on the practicalities of innovation and sustainability in the textile supply chain. With many textile industry tools now in an advanced stage of development to allow apparel brands and retailers to improve supply chain transparency, and to measure their overall environmental impact, the Higg session will be extremely timely and promises to bring new insight for brands, textile mills and suppliers right through the supply chain.

As a part of the ‘Pitch for the Planet’ session run by Fashion for Good at this year’s event, that details new, cutting edge textile innovations that have yet to scale, Abishek Bansal from Arvind Mills will feature in conversation with Fashion for Good investment manager Tanvi Karambelkar about how the Indian textile conglomerate has helped and encouraged innovators to scale-up technology and how it can be integrated into a major textile operation such as Arvind. Also presented will be an innovation that uses minimal chemistry to finish textiles, and how it can contribute to a world where the discharge of potentially hazardous substances from textile wet processing mills can be minimised – and preferably avoided altogether.

Cone Denim will partner with garment finishing technology company Jeanologia on a sustainable denim collection for fall 2020. The collaboration brings together two leaders in denim that are aligned on environmental stewardship. The collection will apply Cone’s water-conscious laser-washing techniques to a number of Cone’s proprietary low-impact fabrics. The partnership is expected to be a compelling and relevant design resource for Cone’s brand partners and serve as a great source of inspiration for designers looking for sustainable options.

Cone selected specific fabrics that are a key part of its fall 2020 collection but they also qualify well for Jeanologia’s laser washing technologies. These washes promote minimal amount of water, energy and chemicals. Each garment will be noted with a wash score. Cone’s consciously-milled denim provides an ideal base for Jeanologia’s low-impact laser washing techniques. The partnership is a perfect marriage of innovative technologies.

Cone, an iconic, 128-year-old denim mill, will also debut two new product capsules for fall 2020. Modern Retro will focus on utilizing a blend of post-consumer recycled cotton, wood pulp-derived Tencel fabric, and SGene with Repreve stretch technology, made from recycled polyester. Favorite is an unisex capsule and comfort, softness, performance and a brilliant indigo color are its hallmarks. The line features a variety of washes and three stretch levels (high, medium and lightweight rigid).

Weather-related changes have long impacted retail businesses across the world. Besides affecting supply chain, these changes also impact sourcing patterns of retailers. However, brands across the world are adopting sustainable practices to minimise the impact of climate change on their operations. A 2017 study by Cone Communications indicates 63 per cent of Americans are opting for businesses that driving social and environmental change in the absence of government regulation. Additionally, consumers are shifting their shopping habits with rentals emerging as an alternative to owning goods.

Focus on renewable and efficient energy

According to a 2018 report by Quantis, the apparel and footwear industries together account for an estimated 8 per cent of global climate impacts. Dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation and fiber production life cycles are the three main drivers of the industry's global pollution. Most of these impacts are a direct result of apparel's reliance on hard coal and natural gas to generate electricity and heat. The most effective way to combat effects of climate change is to focus on renewable and efficient energy across the supply chain. A brand that opts for 60 per cent renewable energy by 2030 would be able to reduce the impact of climate change by 39 per cent. Changing their business models can also impact the industry’s job market by creating 380 million new jobs by 2030.

Transparency increases, rental market grows

Climate change is creating conscious consumers who now prefer to buy their products from environmentally friendly brands. A Forrestor report indicates, over half of US shoppers consider a company's values when making a purchase.

Avedis Seferian, CEO of Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) notes a growth in the number of businesses looking to certify factories. Currently, 2,700 factories have a WRAP certificate, with close to 2.5 million employees. The growing interest in the environment is also shifting the brand’s approach to certifications and social responsibility.

Retailers and brands are incorporating sustainability into quarterly metrics and making this information available on environmental practices front-and-center for shoppers. Companies are adopting the concept of circular economy in their operations. A Gartner L2 report indicates, the number of businesses investing in circular economy has increased from 18 to 28 per cent in 2017.

Brands are also facilitating apparel rentals. Direct-to-consumer brands Fernish and Feather have built business models around furniture subscription services, and now larger retailers, such as Ikea are offering similar options. Outdoor retailers have also built sustainability into their businesses: The North Face had unveiled its Renewed line, which features damaged and refurbished items, and REI last week announced an expansion to its gear rental services. However, these efforts are not enough sustainability has become a basic expectation for consumers. Also, brands need to be transparent in their adoption of sustainability initiatives as simple greenwashing may easily be exposed.

The United Nations has launched a project to support the growth of women entrepreneurs in Cambodia. This is part of a strategy for poverty reduction, social well-being and sustainable economic growth. The project aims at creating an enabling policy and business environment that enhances women entrepreneurs’ access to capital. Women entrepreneurs are seen as true agents of change whose innovations can lift companies, communities, and countries and Cambodia is committed to improving their prospects, unleashing women entrepreneurs’ full potential and putting gender equality squarely upfront.

As one of the activities under the innovative finance part of the project, a fund has been launched. The fund will support companies to pilot innovative digital and financial solutions that help improve access for women-owned or led micro, small and medium-sized enterprises. Successful applicants will be provided with technical assistance, mentorship and early stage co-funding to pilot and upscale their solutions.

Women-owned businesses have been on the rise over the past 20 years in the Asia Pacific region. In Cambodia, around 65 per cent of micro-sized businesses are women-led. However, when it comes to upscaling their business women entrepreneurs across the Asia-Pacific region, face significantly higher barriers including discriminatory legislative framework, limited access to finance, lack of opportunities for capacity development and discriminatory socio-cultural norms and beliefs.

Texworld USA will be held July 22 to 24, 2019. The event promises to be a vital resource for a range of textiles as well as inspiration for the coming seasons. The show offers a host of opportunities for apparel professionals. The trade show is the largest sourcing event on the East Coast for apparel fabric buyers, research and development experts, designers, merchandisers and sourcing professionals. The event will feature textiles in 16 different product groups, including cotton, functional fabrics and knits.

In addition to a diverse group of products, the show will offer educational forums, networking and trend direction. Texworld USA will deliver ample opportunity to learn about the textures, colors and patterns set to drive the next few seasons in the US market as well as abroad. The show will provide an in-depth look at trends for the fall/winter 2020-’21 season. Additionally, the show will feature a panel with trend experts to provide further insights into the looks likely to take off in the months and years to come.

Seminars will feature a full slate of expert panels on topics related to sustainability, sourcing and product development. Texworld USA will provide assistance for attendees needing help navigating the show’s specialized country pavilions, searching for both low-minimum and high-volume options, and locating eco-friendly resources.

A textile and ready-to-wear summit was held in Turkey, April 16 to 17, 2019. The aim of the summit was to provide a sectoral network, to bring together purchasing teams and the manufacturer and to take a concrete step in university-industry cooperation. It discussed the check list in order to make the industry more value-added and competitive. The importance of digitalization and design was emphasized. The e-commerce market in Turkey is growing at 31 per cent a year. The event stressed the possibility of using digitalization as a lever to increase the competitiveness of the small and medium industry. It stressed that digitalization is not a luxury but a necessity.

Turkey has a 3.4 per cent share of the world’s ready-to-wear trade. The country attaches great importance to exports as an industry. Women have a 40 per cent employment share in Turkey’s textile and ready-to-wear industry. This industry is the second largest industry contributing to the country’s employment. Turkey is the sixth largest ready-to-wear supplier worldwide. In the last 40 years production and export in the textile industry has shifted from low value-added products to high value-added products. The textile and ready-to-wear industry in Turkey is an important bridge linking past to future, tradition to innovation.

While cotton growing and ginning is a top agricultural export industry in Tanzania, the sector has been struggling for the past 50 years. Two main factors have led to the stagnation in productivity in the cotton sector. One problem is a general lack of knowledge about how to best operate within the global industry, the other is a lack of cohesiveness between sector groups. Small cotton ginning operations compete with each other from year to year. This competition makes them unwilling to contract farmers for the long-term. Contract farming for the cotton sector in Tanzania has gained popularity. Contracts would give the farmers the training and knowledge needed to improve practices and output. Better agricultural practices, including the correct use of pesticides and improved cotton seeds, can significantly increase annual cotton production. This increase will improve the livelihoods of individual farmers and the industry overall.

A three-part contract farming model was developed within the past few years, involving local government, farmers and ginners. Each district helps farmers negotiate with ginners, advocating for the interests and needs of farmers. Farmers then make arrangements to supply one ginner with cotton and, in turn, the ginners provide training and other services to the farmers.

From shifts in shopping habits to evolving technology affecting the production and manufacturing processes, supply chains are being transformed across the world. But often this is at the expense of labor standards. Fashion’s business models are heaping immense pressure on labor standards across the industry’s vast supply chains. Business models are the distinguishing feature of certain brands such as Zara or Uniqlo, says Ethical Trading Initiative.

Fast fashion is an industry based on high volumes and low prices. Most companies rely on a huge web of suppliers, typically in low wage economies, that are able to bring them the scale and speed required for a social media-driven market. That speed is also the pain point for those suppliers, whose manufacturing offer brings in extremely low margins. When orders increase at speed, sometimes doubling overnight, these manufacturers then put extreme pressure on their workers to do unpaid overtime.

More broadly, the industry’s ethical problems go beyond labor issues. It is becoming increasingly important to consumers that brands they buy are thinking about their environmental output. Consumers are attracted to companies that believe in reducing plastics and improving the environment. Twenty per cent of young people’s fashion decisions in the UK are driven by perceptions of responsible behavior.