Tiruppur garment exporters are watching to gauge the impact of the Ukraine-Russia war on their business. Every month, Tiruppur exports garments worth Rs 1,200 crore to the European Union. It exports account for 40 per cent of the Tiruppur’s total exports to the EU. Several brands in the EU supply to Ukraine and Russia.

The war has led to container shortage in Tiruppur, slowing down container movement again. This is likely to increase freight costs in the city says Raja M Shanmugham, President, Tiruppur Exporters Association. The sanctions imposed on Russia may affect several countries indirectly. Suppliers’ failure to sell in Russia and Ukraine may affect their buying, he adds. This may have a deep impact on the global economy, he adds.

Tiruppur Exporters’ Association was set up in 1990 under the leadership of A Sakthivel and strived for the development of exports. The association has always been quick in taking up issues and standing in the forefront to get them addressed. A Sakthivel was the president of association till September 27, 2016 from the inception of the association.

The denim manufacturing industry in Pakistan is strengthening its position in the global market with the rise of hi-tech players like the Artistic Denim Mills, Siddiqsons Group, Naveena Denim Mills, Azgard Nine, Rajby Industries, etc in cities like Karachi, Lahore and Faisalabad.

The industry offers locally made products of exceptional quality that give importers the best value for money, says Juan Chaparro, Group Director-Supply Chain, Sourcing and Quality, Primark. This is boosting the prospects of denim exporters like ADM even as COVID-19 dented the global denim trade.

Changing in style preferences boosts growth

A major reason for the industry’s growth is the change in style preferences among some consumers that has led to up gradation of wardrobes. Consumers are stocking denims with looser fits and wider-leg silhouettes from global brands ranging from Levi’s and American Eagle to Madewell and Abercrombie & Fitch.

\The growing casualization trend is boosting the popularity of denims in Pakistan, adds Jen Sey, Executive Vice President and President, Levi’s.

As per an OTEXA report, between January and September in 2021 Pakistan saw the largest year-on-year growth rate 63.4 per cent among the top five, denim apparel exporters to the US.

The country’s exports to the EU also doubled from 2015-2020, as per the 2021 CBI report. The exports benefitted from the exodus from China, cotton issues from Xinjiang, increased prices and supply chain concerns, says Muhammad Tariq Rafi, Chairman, Siddiqsons Group.

Increased networking for greater branding

The Pakistan denim industry mainly benefits from the medium-staple cotton grown there. Its’ other advantage includes long-term build-up of investment and clustering of infrastructure, adds Faisal Ahmed, CEO, Artistic Denim Mills. Over the years, the industry has witnessed a growth of vast network of smaller manufacturers who are making inroads into the industry

However, the industry suffers from a lack of perception, say industry experts. Its volatile political climate and negative image across the world, causes denim industry leaders to lose sales to competitors, adds Ahmed. To improve Pakistan’s national branding across the sourcing industry, the country’s denim suppliers are visiting clients with large stocks of denim samples in tow to trade fairs around the world, says Sheikh Raza-ur-Rehman, Director-Marketing, Garatex.

Energy crisis and labor issues

Manufacturers in the country are currently facing energy crisis, which they are resolving through privately-owned generators and gas supplies, adds Ahmed. The industry also suffers from labor rights issues.

As per Fair Wear Foundation report published in 2021, Pakistan has ratified 36 out of 189 International Labor Organisation (ILO) Conventions to date. Also, only 28 per cent of its garment workers are women.

With a greater emphasis on sustainably sourced materials across the fashion industry, the denim supply chain in Pakistan is attracting greater scrutiny due to larger impact on the environment. However, exporters are now adopting sustainability measures in the form of waterless technology, recycled materials and sustainable fibers. They can continue growing by improving their sustainability credentials and overcoming long-standing issues like labor exploitation and energy shortages.

Bangladesh’s woven garment exports are likely to face strict rules-of-origin (RoO) requirements in its major destinations, including the European Union, after Bangladesh's LDC graduation. Exporters may need to comply with double-transformation requirement irrespective of their access to GSP or GSP-plus schemes.

Bangladesh is largely dependent on imported fabrics for woven garment manufacturing as local spinners can meet 35-40 per cent of demand of woven exporters.

Absence of infrastructure, mainly shortage of gas, required policy supports and financial matters, is discouraging entrepreneurs from making fresh investment in woven fabrics manufacturing, say experts

The share of woven garments to the country's total exports declined by at 37.40 per cent in the last fiscal while it further dipped to 35.38 per cent during the first half of the current fiscal year, 2021-22, Bangladesh Bank quarterly review shows.

MD ShahidullahAzim, Vice President, BGMEAadds, the decline in exports can be attributed to a decline in demand during the pandemic as most people stayed at home.

The future success of the textile fabric finishing industry depends on the coordination between the finisher, the machine supplier, chemistry suppliers and other technology providers, says Regina Bruckner, Chairperson, VDMA.

VDMA member companies in this market mainly act as partners on the technological aspects of the finishing processes, adds Bruckner. These VDMA specialist finishing suppliers will showcase their advanced systems at ITMA 2023.

Automation can reduce water usage in dyeing

Over the past few decades, dyeing machines have helped garment industry reduce water consumption significantly through their design and control technology.From 105 liters in 1980, the industry has been able to save 28 liter of water per kg on medium shades during the finishing stages of pre-treatment, dyeing and after-treatment.

To reduce water usage further and achieve sustainability goals, the entire finishing process needs to be automated. The productivity rates also need to stabilized and increased by reducing unproductive waiting times and increasing occupational safety.

Automation of storage, weighing and dispensing systems also prevent workers from coming into direct contact with chemicals and dyes. On the other hand, digital storage systems help manage stock levels and generate orders precisely when they are required.

Reducing waiting times through advanced systems Specializing in finishing technologies, VDMAcompanies offer advanced high-performance dryers, along with heat recovery systems, minimal application units, energy saving motors etc. These companies assist customers reduce their line set-ups and waiting times via automatic batching systems.

Further, these companies ensure process optimization through advanced control systems for parameters such as exhaust humidity and heat setting, with batch sequence optimization according to temperatures.

They also provide customers with energy management systems, assistance systems and process simulation and expert systems to maximize production output and minimize energy consumption.

Digitization can address labor shortage VDMA member companies also ensureapplication of minimum application technology by introducing new production methods. They can address skilled labor shortage and ensure reproducible quality results through digitization and Industry 4.0. Process simulation on a PC can help these companies optimize process parameters before commencement of production.

Consumers’ shopping behavior has undergone a huge transformation in the last two years. With the pandemic and stay-at-home orders in 2020 resulted in most retail stores scaling down operations. On the other hand, online shopping of goods and services surged exponentially, as per the Daily Star report. Multiple surveys conducted by PwC between July-December 2021 show, consumers’ shopping behavior remains optimistic despite pandemic headwinds. Covering 9,370 individuals across 26 countries, the survey shows marked improvement in optimism amongst vaccinated individuals. Around 66 per cent of surveyed vaccinated individuals remain optimistic about the future.

Hybrid working styles and smartphone usage

The optimism is also boosted by their flexible working styles. Most individuals adopted a hybrid model of working and are spending more time and money on shopping. Increased use of smartphones has also added to shoppers’ current optimism,says the PwC survey. Compared to 39 per cent six months, 41 per cent respondentsnow shop daily or weekly using mobiles or smartphones. Greater proliferation of smartphones in emerging markets like Bangladesh, India and Vietnam is likely to fuel this trend further amongst consumers. Currently, 53 per cent shoppersin India use mobiles and smartphones daily or weekly to make new purchases. Around 47 per cent respondents also visitphysical stores every week.

Higher research on products and services

Work from home trend enabledcash-affluent consumers to invest more time in shopping for their preferred products and services. They could spend a significant time on researching about a particular product or service. Consumers also opted for more sustainable products and services. They became more concerned about the environmental, social and governance factors influencingfashion production across the world. They are now opting for more eco-friendly products, having dual effect on fashion manufacturers in Bangladesh.

Trace data origins

Retailers need to start sharing information with consumers to ensure complete transparency. They also need to modernize their technologies andmake data collection more efficient by including the origins of production in data and convey it to consumers. Apparel manufacturers also need to review and reconfigure their production process for overseas consumers. They need to adopt new technologies and introduce sustainable production processes.

The shopping behavior of consumers is evolving rapidly and will continue to do so in future. Retailers need to speed up and reconfigure operational strategies to address these evolving needs.

Though the underwear sector is becoming increasingly sustainable, it still remains one of the largest contributors to clothing landfills.As per Environmental Protection Agencyestimates, US consumers discard approximately 11 million pounds of underwear every day. Only about 15 per cent of this textile waste is recycled due to garment’s limited re-use, as per a Glossy report. Most of the discarded underwear is downcycled, as it is made from a mix of fibers, including elastane. These fibers cannot be separated and made into new items.

Resale, recycle programs to curb waste

The sector has been incorporating organic and bamboo materials in new underwear. However, it needs to step up efforts to combat the amount of waste it generates. US brands like Parade are recycling old underwear into new ones. While others like Modibodi are making their products biodegradable. Two-year old brand The Big Favorite is also eliminating the use of elastic in its underwear.

Over 60 per cent consumers believe, brands and retailers should offer resale and recycling programs for their products, as per a 2022 consumer behavior report from Avery Dennison. However, the current underwear brands fail to address the needs of the whole sector.

Parade joined the Science Based Initiative to help companies reduce emissions in line with the Paris Agreement goals. The brand also collaborated with well-known US recycling company Terracycle to introduce a take-back program. The partnership aims to curb the dumping of underwear into landfills. Kerry Steib, Head-Impact, Parade says, the partnership aims to find ways to convert these underwear made from blended materialsinto new products like housing materials, insulation and furniture. The brand is creating a bio-elastane material to recycle underwear into new ones. Parade is also introducing new ways to increase supply chain transparency. The brand is providing opportunities to consumers to get involved into its activities, adds Steib.

Opting for biodegradable materials

Meanwhile other apparel companies are focusing on launching underwear products made from biodegradable materials. Two years ago, underwear brand Modibodilaunched a range of biodegradable brief made using both natural and bioengineered synthetic textiles. Each of these briefs has an inside liner, making it period-proof. Kristy Chong, Founder and CEO, says, these brief reduces environmental impact by eliminating waste.

The briefs launched by Modibodi underwear are Standard100 certified by Oeko-Tex. They are also free of harmful chemicals with 97 percent components scientifically proven to break down into nontoxic substances. Durable and tested to perform even after 100 washes, the briefs offer the same quality as the rest of Modibodi’s products.

Other companies like The Big Favorite are offering underwear that can be directly recycled into new underwear. The brand provides customers a QR code on the garment’s label that can be used to return the item. The brand thencleans and sorts these garments and sends them to a textile recycling partner in Peru. This helps the brand recycle these fibers into new under wear, thus extending their lifespan.

The value of Zimbabwe's cotton exports grew by 132 percent in 2021, earning the country $102,2 million in export revenue.

As per an All Africa report, Zimbabwe’s exports witnessed a significant rise from the $43,9 million the country achieved in the comparable period in 2020.

The sector's exports were mainly driven by cotton lint and cotton yarn exports, which increased to $85,7 million in 2021 from US$29,1 million the prior year.

Zimbabwe’s clothing and textile exports value also increased to $16,9 million in 2021 from $14,9 million in 2020. This growth is largely attributable to the notable Government support through Cotton, which has revived yield levels in the sector.

A recent survey shows, Zimbabwe uses 30 percent of locally grown cotton and 70 percent is exported to textile industries dotted around the world. The country fails to exploit competitive advantage in the cotton value chain considering the country's ability to grow the raw material locally.

To be held from June 21-24, Texprocess 2022 will showcase innovative approaches to textile processing. The event has already confirmed more than 1000 registrations from international exhibitors.

As per a Knitting Industry report, the event will include the Texprocess Innovation Award for honoring progressive and unconventional new developments, ideas and visions and thus supports the cross-sector dialog between researchers, the manufacturing industry and users.

For the first time, Texprocess will also mark an outstanding development in the field of garment making and processing technologies with the Texprocess Fashion Technology Award.

An independent international jury will select the best ideas from all the innovations submitted. The winners of the Innovation Award will be presented at a special show at Texprocess 2022.The winners will also be presented virtually in the Digital Extension of Texprocess.

Techtextil and Texprocess 2022 will offer a Digital Extension: exhibitors and visitors can thus be found both on-site in Frankfurt and virtually and can exchange ideas in complementary formats. These new touchpoints include Matchmaking offers, round tables, chat function, 1-to-1 video calls or digital timetables.

The cancelling of orders by international buyers due to cotton shortage is having a severe impact on the Indian textile mills, says Ravi Sam, Chairman, Southern Mills India Association (SIMA). He urged the government to remove import duties on cotton with immediate effect.

Immediate removal of the import duty will boost imports in May leading to huge profits for Indian farmers and enable them to begin sowing for the next season, adds Sam

The propagation of international traders for the removal of import duty will affect farmers badly but, non-removal will lead to a doom of the textile industry, he adds. Only en-users should be allowed to import cotton and not the international traders who try and hold them creating a further crisis for the Industry, states Sam.

A recent report released by international human rights group headed by Grace Forrest, Walk Free, shows, only 65 per cent garment companies in Australia disclose their initiatives on modern slavery.

Only 31 per cent of apparel companies in Australia and their respective statements meet the minimum approval requirements and reporting criteria. Similarly, only 61 per cent of luxury companies are transparent their approach to modern slavery.

Workers are bearing the losses induced by COVID-19 in the form of wage cuts and cancelled contracts. On the other hand, they are being forced to work for extended hours without any protection against COVID-19.

In line with Australia's Modern Slavery Act, companies across all sectors are required to provide statements on how they are actively addressing the issue of modern slavery.

In 2021, Walk Free along with Wiki Rate and a handful of academics from ANU, Nottingham University, Columbia University, and The University of Connecticut, reviewed the statements of garment companies to find out if they meet the basic requirements of current legislation

Around 43 per cent of companies failed to take affirmative action to mitigate the effects of the pandemic on the supply chain and their workers, the report shows.