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Seven cellulosic-fibre producers feature in the first CanopyStyle Audits

Canopy, the global not-for-profit environmental protection forum in association with independent third-party auditors Preferred by Nature and SCS Global Services publicly released the first CanopyStyle Audits featuring man-made cellulosic fibre producers and a dissolving pulp supplier. Canopy, dedicated to protecting forests, species, and climate, has collaborated with over 900 companies to develop cutting-edge environmental policies that transform unsustainable supply chains, spark innovative solutions, and protect the planet’s remaining ‘Ancient and Endangered Forests’. “Canopy is very pleased to see more and more producers join the CanopyStyle initiative and follow through to get audited,” said Amanda Carr, Director of Strategic Initiatives at Canopy. “Canopy’s doors are wide open to all global producers of man-made cellulosic fibre who want to collaborate to forward Ancient and Endangered Forest conservation, as well as the scaling up of low-impact Next Generation fibre solutions.”
The extensive audits spanned the global manufacturing of man-made fibres sourced from ancient and endangered forest and other controversial sources. The audited companies were found to be low risk
Participating cellulosic-fibre producers
Jilin Chemical Fiber Stock is a holding subsidiary of Jilin Chemical Fiber Stock. Founded in 1960 and put into operation on August 1, 1964, the listed company specializes in viscose fibre. Its main products are viscose filament and viscose staple yarn. The designed production capacity for filament fibre is 80,000 tons and for the staple fibre is 125,000 tons. The company is one of the top 10 enterprises in China's chemical fibre industry.
Xinxiang Chemical Fiber was established in March 1993 in China and is a subsidiary of the Xinxiang Bailu Investment Group. The company has two mills with 200,000 tons of production capacity, 80,000 tons of which is man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) and the rest spandex.
Kara Fiber is a new lyocell production facility based in Gaziantep, Turkey and part of Kara Holding, which focuses on production of nonwoven textiles, yarn, plastics, and man-made cellulosic fibre. Kara Fiber started production of Lyocell (brand name Ecocell) in October 2021 and is still in the testing phase while already selling Lyocell fibre.
ENKA manufactures endless viscose yarns (multi-filament yarns) from pure cellulose under the trademark ENKA® Viscose. Located in Industriecenter, Obernburg, Germany since 1924, it’s the largest chemical fibre manufacturing site in Western Europe. An additional textile treatment plant is located in Gorzow, Poland.
PT. Rayon Utama Makmur also known as RUM Indonesia is a rayon or viscose staple fibre manufacturer. It produces viscose staple fibre (VSF) for the textile industry by using dissolving pulp as input material and has 80,000 tons capacity in a year.
Kelheim Fibres GmbH, headquartered in Kelheim, Germany, is a producer of viscose specialty fibres. Its fibres under GALAXY®, DANUFIL®, VISETA® and VILOFT® trademarks, are used to produce textiles, hygiene, and medical products, specialty papers as well as technical and household products.
Cosmo is an affiliate of The Gores Group and was established to restore, restart and operate the former Weyerhaeuser Specialty Cellulose Mill. Cosmo Specialty Fibers produces lyocell, viscose, acetate, ethers, MCC, and nitrocellulose dissolving pulp. Products are made from Pacific Northwest USA softwoods, primarily Douglas Fir and western hemlock.
India: Tirupur apparel exports up ten per cent
Tirupur’s apparel exports grew ten per cent in November 2022. This follows a fall in exports in August 2022, September 2022 and October 2022 of 14 per cent, 24 per cent and 34 per cent.
So the positive growth in November is quite encouraging and further growth is expected due to the Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement entered into with Australia and the free trade agreement with the UK. Tirupur’s exports of knitwear and garments to the United Kingdom are growing by 20 per cent year on year.About 20 per cent of the knitwear hub’s annual exports of knitwear and garments go to the United Kingdom. And with the India-United Kingdom free trade agreement in the offing, exports from Tirupur could see a ten per cent growth.
Indian firms employ more than 1.1 lakh people in the UK. Britain is trying to continue its hold on Indian businesses post-Brexit by wooing them with technological partnerships in high-tech areas such as low-carbon automobile engines, graphene engineering and aerospace. Britain is interested in expanding its footprint in the financial sector in India and in projecting London as the first choice for Indian companies raising global finance, so a deal involving financial markets is important for Britain.
Moda to feature footwear awards
Moda will feature a competition for footwear design students. The project brief is based on the Quagga, a cross between a horse and a zebra that was native to South Africa and is now extinct.
The Quaggahad adapted its size, camouflage and natural survival capability with its surroundings. The Quagga evolved through specific conditions, so students have been tasked to create footwear that also evolves through certain conditions.
The concept allows students to push their design boundaries and explore niche footwear theories and innovations. All 16 of the students have been invited to display their innovative designs at Moda and from nine finalists the winner will be announced at an awards ceremony. Visitors to the show will also be given the opportunity to vote for their favourite design and the design with the most votes will receive the Buyer’s Choice Award.The initiative is aimed at showcasing young talent and the future of footwear design.
Talented designers will get the opportunity to show their work to a global audience. Fashion footwear trade show Moda will be held in the UK, February 5 to 8, 2023. Moda will present the industry’s most sought-after brands including Fly London, XTi, Refresh, Carmela, Chatham, Mustang, Alpe, Thomas Blunt, Lunar, Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen, and many more.
Migrants left jobless
Migrant workers at Tirupur, India are out of a job. Several units in this textile city of Tamil Nadu have shut down as a protest demanding an increase in yarn prices.The city which was once buzzing with activities is now in lockdown mode.
There are around 6200 dyeing, knitting, stitching, and garment printing units in and around Tirupur. There are around 12,000 migrant workers especially from Orissa who are employed in various industries including the textile industries in the district. Tirupur’s apparel exports fell 21 per cent in October 2022 from October 2021. Of this, knitwear exports, which Tirupur is known for, fell almost 40 per cent. And this was the third straight month knitwear exports contracted. Average capacity utilisation at garment exporting units in Tirupur is 30 per cent now.
The US, EU and the UK account for 85 per cent of shipments from Tirupur. With high inflation in these economies, clothing is not a priority for consumers now. Further, with buyers saddled with huge stocks, they are postponing delivery. This has resulted in stocks piling up at the producers’ end. So Tirupur has a huge inventory of finished goods as brands are asking for deferred shipments. With buyers in the EU and the US holding high inventory, and expectations of better sales during the Thanksgiving holidays and Christmas, exporters are expecting orders to revive only by January.
Pakistan textile exports drop 18 per cent
Pakistan’s textile exports dropped 18 percent in November 2022 compared to the corresponding month last year. The July to November period of fiscal year 2023 witnessed a five percent reduction in textile exports against the same period in fiscal year 2022.
Exports of products like cotton cloth, knitwear, bedwear and towels decreased while readymade garments maintained the 2022 level. However, exports were up four percent over November 2021’s level. Cotton cloth exports dropped by 25 percent in November when compared with the same month last year. The decrease stood at nine percent over the previous month’s exports. However, knitwear exports were up two percent, bedwear two percent, towels 16 percent and readymade garments 18 percent when compared with October.But knitwear exports declined 12 percent over the corresponding month of last year followed by bedwear 29 percent and towels 12 percent in comparison with November 2022. Exports of readymade garments were the same as recorded in November 2021.
The textile sector is Pakistan’s top exporter with an over 60 percent share in the country’s total exports. In fiscal year 2022, total textile exports were at a record high after an increase of over 25 percent when compared with fiscal year 2021.
LVMH to make bags in new Italian factory
LVMH plans a new factory in Italy producing Louis Vuitton bags and other leather accessories. The workshop will be the largest in Italy entirely dedicated to making these products for Louis Vuitton.
LVMH is the world’s largest luxury goods group. For the first nine months of 2022, revenues of LVMH were up 28 per cent compared to the same period of 2021.
Europe, the United States and Japan benefitted from the solid demand of local customers and the recovery in international travel. Asia (including China) saw a lower level of growth over the first nine months of 2022, though growth in the latest quarter accelerated there due to the partial easing of health restrictions. The wines and spirits business recorded a revenue growth of 23 per cent. Growth was particularly strong in Europe, the United States and Japan. The fashion and leather goods business recorded revenue growth of 31 per cent. Many new products were unveiled, in leather goods as well as in watches. With a revenue growth of 19 per cent, the perfumes and cosmetics business maintained its highly selective distribution strategy. The watches andjewelry business group recorded revenue growth of 23 per cent. In selective retailing, revenue growth was 30 per cent in the first nine months of 2022.
Crystal Denim partners with Browzwear
Crystal Denim plans to bring digital twins of its speciality denim fabrics to users of the VStitcher 3D design platform via a new partnership with Browzwear. The integration will give designers and manufacturers of denim garments greater ability to visualise designs in realistic 3D, which enables quick and easy creative exploration. The true-to-life digital garments also allow greater collaboration through product development while their accuracy supports faster, more confident decision-making.
subsidiary of the Hong Kong-based Crystal, a global manufacturer which delivered 410 million pieces of apparel to some of the world’s top brands in 2021, Crystal Denim has been working with Browzwear since 2008. By 2019, the denim division had converted to 100 per cent digital workflows for co-creation projects with customers and reduced sample production by over 75 per cent during the initial development stage, significantly reducing turnaround times, the consumption of materials and energy and water consumption.
Browzwear has been an important partner to Crystal Denim as both strive for a net-zero emission future, not only for their companies but for the industry overall. In an industry as challenging as fashion, Crystal Denim’s willingness to share tools and technologies with others has conveyed a competitive edge.
Cotton production estimated at 341 lakh bales
The estimated cotton production currently in India is 341.91 lakh bales. The estimated consumption is 311 lakh bales.
The performance of Indian cotton spinners moderated in the second quarter due to inflationary pressures and uncompetitive prices. However, absolute profits are projected to remain healthy, supported by a higher scale of operations.
For the first half of the financial year, inventory levels for most players have come down with the cotton stocks from the previous harvest season getting extinguished and sharp volatility in cotton prices affecting the buying power of spinners.And with higher raw material prices exerting cost pressures, operating margins remained flat.
In the second quarter revenue and margins dipped for Indian spinners amidst macro headwinds, while for the apparel segment revenue and margins remained flat, with recessionary conditions in key markets. Most players faced a decline in inventory levels in the second quarter after cotton stocks from the previous harvest season started to reduce and cotton prices saw a sharp volatility, resulting in players becoming cautious on buying. A recessionary environment in key export markets affected discretionary consumer spending leading to lower export sales. For the first half of the fiscal year, inventory levels for most players had reduced. This was in line with large retailers who focused on reducing inventory due to a weak demand scenario and recessionary pressures in key exporting regions.
Indian apparel exports up 11 per cent
India’s apparel exports in November 2022 rose by 11 per cent. Exports of readymade garments from India witnessed a rough patch in the past few months since most of the traditional markets such as the UK, the EU and the US have been witnessing recession and global headwinds, leading to falling demand in these countries.Inflation and rising costs of raw material and freight, aggravated by the Russia-Ukraine war, added to the burden of exporters.
However, after a few months of slipping, readymade garment exports have again turned positive signaling the resilience of the industry to adjust to the prevailing challenges. Exporters have flagged certain issues such as the production-linked incentive scheme for apparel, extension of ATUFS (Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme), RoSCTL (Rebate of State and Central Levies and Taxes) disbursements through bank transfer, and one time relaxation on account of bankruptcy / insolvency / discounting / cancellation of export orders.
India’s readymade garment exports may see a compound annual growth rate of 12 per cent by 2027.This will help India achieve an ambitious textile export target of $100 billion by 2030.With a level-playing field due to trade agreements, India’s share in the UAE and Australian markets could rise and the free trade agreement with the UK likely to be completed in 2023 will be a game changer.
Color Digital joins ITMF
Color Digital has joined ITMF as corporate member. Being a part of ITMF can help Color Digital meet and connect with industry players from around the globe, understand the needs of the industry and the value of new technologies and to be part of the discussions about industry trends and initiatives.
Based in Germany, ColorDigital is the company behind DMIx, which is an ecosystem combining industrial manufacturing processes and digital product development workflows and which provides an end-to-end solution for brands and suppliers in the textile, fashion, and lifestyle industry. Based on the DMIx digital twin standard the system enables the exchange of all relevant data for color and material development, 3D virtualization and the real time exchange of product master data between stakeholders and relevant software solutions. DMIx and its multiple modules enable qualitative efficiency in collaboration between all tier stages of the supply chain leading to highly efficient processes and a sustainable way of working – reducing unnecessary physical sampling while saving time and cost.
Founded in 1904, ITMF (International Textile Manufacturers Federation) is the international forum of the global textile value chain for producers of fiber to finished products. Its members are from textile and apparel-producing countries representing approximately 90 per cent of global production.In addition, ITMF offers its members information that helps better understand the dynamics of the industry.












