Federica Marchionni has been appointed the new CEO of Global Fashion Agenda. As per Global Fashion Agenda, Marchionni will help the organization accelerate its growth and build on its ten-year foundation based on a collective commitment to make sustainability fashion’s first priority. Marchionni will mainly focus on elevating the organization’s prestigious forums including Copenhagen Fashion Summit and CFS+. She has a vast experience in the industry having served in various leadership roles across companies in Europe, US and China. Most recently, she was the International CEO of Secoo, a Chinese e-commerce platform and one of the largest online luxury retailers in China.

Prior to this, she was CEO and Board Director at Lands’ End and President of Dolce&Gabbana Inc., based in New York. She started her career in the telecommunication industry in Italy, working for global players such as Samsung, Philips and Ericsson.

Marchionni will commence her role on June 1, 2021 and will relocate to Copenhagen, where she will lead the energised and dedicated Global Fashion Agenda team.

Revenues of Japanese brand Uniqlo declined only 0.5 per cent to ¥1.2 trillion in the first six months of the current financial year ending February 2021. Operating profit of the brand rose 22.9 per cent to ¥167.9 billion. Pre-tax profit increased by 13.7 per cent to ¥171 billion while net profit increased by 5.6 per cent at ¥109 billion.

In Japan, Uniqlo’s revenues increased by 6.2 per cent to ¥492.5 billion with operating profit increasing by 36.6 per cent to ¥97.8 billion. Same-store sales increased by 5.6 per cent due to strong sales of products such as loungewear and HeatTech blankets that fulfilled customer demand for stay-at-home items, as well as buoyant sales of core Fall/Winter items along with ultra stretch active jogger pants.

International Uniqlo’s revenues fell 3.6 per cent to ¥521.8 billion, although operating profit rose by 25.9 per cent to ¥67 billion. Europe and North America struggled most due to the pandemic yet e-commerce sales remained strong, rising in each market.

PrimaLoft, has launched a new version of its best-selling synthetic insulation material ThermoPlume made entirely from post-consumer recycled materials. As per Innovation in Textiles, the company first launched ThermoPlume in 2017. The material is manufactured with small, silky fiber plumes that collectively form a loose fill insulation. It mimics the fluidity, hand-feel and aesthetics of down, but also has the proven water-repellent properties of PrimaLoft fibers to provide a soft, compressible thermal output, even in wet conditions.

ThemoPume simplifies the manufacturing process for brands besides allowing product designers to create versatile garments that combine the look and feel of down with the water-resistant performance of a synthetic, says Vanessa Mason, SVP – Engineering, PrimaLoft. It also helps to simplify the supply chain, combat the volatility of down prices and ensures ethical sourcing of materials.

In the six months ending February, Asos’s group revenues increased 25 per cent at constant currency — to £1.976 billion. Retail sales rose to £1.92 million while gross margin declined to 45 per cent from 47 per cent. Asos’s adjusted EBITDA during these six months increased 90 per cent to £180.8 million while its pre-tax profit rose 253 per cent to £106.4 million. Adjusted pre-tax profit was up an even bigger 275 per cent at £112.9 million.

The company’s customer base increased 1.5 million to 25 million over the six months. Its UK sales increased by 39 per cent while sales in EU grew by 18 per cent, the US 16 per cent and the rest of the world (RoW) sales grew by16 per cent. The company’s body category grew by a record 114 per cent, while activewear rose by 95 per cent and casualwear 69 per cent. It bought a few of Arcadia’s brands during the including its star Topshop label.

Its existing brands also performed well during the period. ASOS Design delivered 24 per cent growth year-on-year while ASOS 4505 posted a 68 per cent growth. Its brand Reclaimed Vintage saw a “stellar performance” with 92 per cent growth, expanding its share of product mix by +30bps.

Asos also added 100 new delivery points during the six months besides expanding its Click & Collect offering to 166,000 locations globally.

In January this, year, USTR announced plans to indefinitely suspend Section 301 tariffs on certain luxury goods from France. This was in response to the discriminatory digital service tax levied France on certain US digital companies. A report by the Fashion Law terms this tax as being inconsistent with the principles of international taxation and burden US companies.

Tariffs on fashion to damage exports, raise tensions

Fashion is one of the goods that USTR plans to tax in response to the digital service tax levied by countries like UK, India, Austria, Italy, Spain, etc. In UK, USTR plans to add upto 25 per cent tariffs on fragrances, different types of makeup, skincare products, ‘women’s or girls’ dresses, knitted or crocheted, of synthetic fibers, women’s’ and men’s’ overcoats, and different types of footwear, etc. The government agency plans to tax handbags, footwear, women’s or girls’ suits, jackets, blazers and men’s or boy’s track suits.

The proposed tariffs have raised concerns amongst various fashion experts. Helen Brocklebank, CEO, Walpole, believes, they have a tremendously damaging impact on businesses’ ability to export to the US while Amie Ahanchian, Donald Hok, Philippe Stepbanny and Elizabeth opine, the proposed tariffs may increase trade tensions amongst countries besides increasing the cost of business for many companies.

Call for duty drawback programs

In a Bloomberg Tax article, these experts urge for duties to be made eligible for duty drawback under two conditions: first, these goods being subsequently re-exported and second, being incorporated as products manufactured in the US. Duty drawback rules are becoming increasingly popular as they enable companies to recover 99 per cent of the duties originally paid on the imported merchandise when exported, say Ahanchian, Hok, Stephanny, and Shingler.

Another popular duty reduction program that can be used includes the First Sale for Export (FSFE) duty reduction program. However, to use this rule, the US importer needs to prove the marked exports destined for the US market, say Ahanchian, Hok, Stephanny, and Shingler. This program has often been used by retail and apparel importers facing steep duties. It is now becoming popular in other industries too.

The American government aims to resolve international taxation related disputes by building a consensus among members of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development, say Husch Blackwell LLP attorneys, Camron Greer and Turner Kim. Katherine Tai, US Trade Representative, reaffirms US’ commitment to resolving concerns related to digital services taxes through an international consensus through the OECD process. Until it reaches such a consensus, USTR aims to maintain its options under the Section 301 process, including imposition of tariffs.

Despite an upward trend witnessed by Pakistan’s textile industry during last year, the Punjab government failed to keep up cotton production resulting in a decline of 34 per cent compared to last year.

According to experts, textile exports increased by 7.8 per cent during the first six months of the current financial year which led to earnings of $7.4 billion but the industry had to import cotton worth 321 million during the same period.

The country is currently facing a historic shortage of cotton due to the reduction in the main cash crop cultivation.

The State Bank of Pakistan in its report on the agricultural sector has revealed that the area under cotton cultivation has been steadily declining up to its lowest level ever, 2.2 million acres, since 1982. The negligence of the authorities has waned farmers off the country’s main source of foreign exchange for the past many years.

As per GlobalData research, 50 per cent UK consumers bought home workout products during the pandemic and three-quarters intend to continue working out at home post-pandemic. The firm surveyed around 2,000 consumers of which 52.2 per cent of UK consumers reported participating in home workouts since March 2020 and 53.3 per cent of them buying workout products. The average amount spent in the UK on these per person in the last 12 months is £162.

Of the UK consumers who opted for home workouts since March 2020, nearly 32 per cent didn’t exercise regularly before the pandemic and 76 per cent said, they plan to continue exercising post-pandemic.

Jonathan Rock, Retail Analyst, GlobalData, said, 28.2 per cent of survey respondents bought workout clothing such as tops, shorts and leggings, while 21.3 per cent bought footwear. Such items were also bought because of their versatility as they could be worn while working at home as well as while working out at home.

GlobalData also highlighted Adidas’s emphasis on direct-to-customers sales which resulted in 20.9 per cent in its consumers.

Fashion retailer Saks Fifth Avenue aims to go fur-free by closing all its fur salons by the end of fiscal 2021 and phasing out all fur products by the end of fiscal 2022. Through this initiative, the retailer joins other department stores such as Macy’s, Nordstrom etc n shifting away from selling furs.

Tracy Margolies, Chief Merchandizing Officer, Saks said the retailer would phase out products made with fur from wild animals or from animals raised for their fur. The store plans to keep selling leather, shearling, goatskin, down, feathers and faux fur products. Numerous luxury fashion brands have gone fur-free in recent years, including Gucci, Chanel, Burberry and Prada. In 2019, Queen Elizabeth II's official dresser revealed that the British monarch switched to faux fur. Brand Canada Goose has decided to stop buying new fur from trappers by 2022, though it will keep using recycled fur.

California has banned sale of animal-fur products with a law that goes into effect in 2023. However, International Fur Federation has argued that such laws raise environmental concerns because faux furs are often made with plastics and get discarded in landfills. Last week, a federal judge ruled against the trade group.

Faced with uncertainties related to COVID-19 and the restrictions imposed on major international events, Messe Frankfurt France has decided to postpone the physical edition of Texworld Evolution Paris - Le Showroom formula, in Paris, from July 05-09.

The convivial event will focus on a selection of trendy products from the textile trade shows Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld and Texworld Paris and allow buyers to build their collections and exhibitors to present their know-how. Touch and feel the fabrics

The first edition showcased over 2,500 products selected by the teams of Messe Frankfurt France from 75 international manufacturers from a dozen countries. During five days, buyers were able to exchange 3,235 requests related to collection projects or orders. This upcoming event in Paris will present an expanded range with an even wider selection of finished products from Apparel Sourcing and fabrics from Texworld exhibitors.

Dev Ethical Sustainable Crafts and Textiles (DESCAT UK) - a DIPP recognized B2B social impact startup for fashion -- is organizing ‘NNF Design Presentation-2021’ during Fashion Revolution Week from April 19-25, 2021. Aiming to promote practice of sustainable and circular fashion among fashion designers of tomorrow, DESCATUK has collaborated with over 30+ fashion schools and institutions around the world. The presentation will be its flagship event to work with ambitious students of fashion schools and professional designers, to promote awareness about how they can contribute towards UN Sustainable Development Goals of 2030, very early through their work. says KD Sharma, CEO, DESCATUK.

Over 250 students and professional designers would come together to conceptualize and create products with help of most sustainable NNF yarn and fabric. DESCK's design review board comprises of sustainable fashion consultants, technology platform experts and fashion industry experts who have worked in circular fashion and sustainability space worldwide.

NNF Design Presentation 2021 is supported by LIVA NNF Yarn Birla Cellulose, NGO Partner Sewa International Uttarakhand, EWOK IIT Mandi, Varnika, Usha Yarn, Alsisar Impact and WFB Baired India.