Tara Donalson, Editorial Director, Sourcing Journal along with senior designer Celena Tang, launched The Diversity List, an interactive site to illustrate the sector’s lack of inclusivity. Pulling data from fashion companies’ investor relations websites, social media posts and various publicly released reports, the site provides a concise breakdown of 100 of the industry’s top brands and fashion firms, from Nike to Anthropologie, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Ralph Lauren, The RealReal and more.

The graphics show the ethnic and gender breakdowns of their workforces by percentage—from board members and executives through retail and distribution center workers. The graphics are presented alongside many of these companies’ recent commitments to diversity and inclusion in the wake of nationwide civil unrest—sometimes drawing a contrast between promises and reality.

Some private companies included on the list do not share diversity numbers publicly, but Donaldson hopes The Diversity List will encourage them to take steps toward transparency even if they’re not required to. Other companies have undoubtedly put work into creating inclusive teams, and notably their efforts were reflected in their public-facing statements in recent months.

Donaldson also noted that a company’s workforce often seems to reflect its surroundings, to some degree. Kobe-based footwear brand Asics has a workforce that is 95 percent Japanese. Still, many American brands’ workforces don’t mirror their diverse consumer bases. Brands like Athleta, Banana Republic, Coach, Everlane, Gap, etc have more than half white employees with only few brands having people of color on their boards or in executive leadership roles.

SRTEPC has urged the Finance Ministry and the NITI Aayog to continue with the Merchandise Exports of India Scheme (MEIS) in order to boost exports. Ronak Rughani, Chairman, SRTEPC says the sudden termination of scheme on July 23 is a shock for exporters as it would severely hit exports from the country which have already been bleeding because of COVID-19 pandemic.

Rughani further stated that MEIS was designed by the government under the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20 to provide relief to exporters to offset infrastructural inefficiencies and associated costs. Currently infrastructural inefficiencies and associated costs have multiplied due to lockdown, paralyzed economic activities, created labor shortage, etc. In such a situation, incentives and support provided in the MEIS are extremely important to cushion exports. Rughnani urged the government to restore the MEIS benefits till the RoDTEP is activated.

MEIS was launched as an incentive scheme for the export of goods after merging various schemes for different sectors. Duty credit scrips issued under earlier incentive schemes were transferred to the MEIS and the rewards are given by way of duty credit scrips to exporters.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and Higg Co have released an updated version of the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI). The index is a leading tool to assess the environmental impact of materials in the apparel, footwear and textile industry. The Higg MSI now offers a new database and updated score.

Through this platform, various factories can calculate the environmental impact of millions of possible material manufacturing variations. It empowers brands, retailers and manufacturers to compare material life-cycle assessment data and make more sustainable design and material choices.

The new Higg MSI also includes migration from a standalone website to the Higg.org platform, alongside other Higg tools, addition of a packaging library, comparisons and customization, addition of a trims and components library, comparisons and customization, ability to customize transportation distances and modes between processing steps, ability to assign chemistry certifications at the process level and new background LCA database (GaBi).

Raymond UCO, the pioneer in denim innovation and solutions, in partnership with Swiss textile innovator HeiQ, has launched a highly protective denim fabric range called Shield with HeiQViroblock, a sustainable, antiviral and antimicrobial technology that has been tested and proven effective to destroy 99.99 per cent viruses.

The Shield collection offers a wide range of denim fabrics that aim to fight viruses & bacteria. This innovative denim range also features fabric powered by HeiQViroblock technology which has been tested effective against a dozen viruses and bacteria, including SARS-CoV-2, H1N1, H5N1, H7N9, H3N2, and sendai virus, all with an effectiveness above 99.99%.

Studies suggest viruses and bacteria can remain infective on textile surfaces for days. Human Coronavirus (SARS-CoV) persist for up to two days on surgical gowns at room temperature. In this context, antiviral treatments for textiles can significantly reduce the risk of transmission and contamination thus ensuring hygiene and safety. HeiQViroblock is a unique combination of advanced silver and vesicle components which is imparted technically on the fabric surface. These active components in the HeiQViroblock kill bacteria and destroy common harmful enveloped viruses within a short time span of two minutes of exposure (according to modified AATCC100 test conducted on Sendai virus). HeiQViroblock is designed to last on the fabric even after repeated domestic washes.

HeiQViroblock is certified as safe and sustainable with all its ingredients designated as cosmetic grade, bio-based and recycled. Beta Analytics Testing Laboratory has certified that HeiQViroblock contains 72 per cent bio-based carbon. It is EU REACH and US FIFRA compliant, OEKOTEX® certified, ZDHC and bluesign® homologized. Denims treated with HeiQViroblock are complaint with EU BPR and US EPA. The HeiQViroblock ingredient is marketed under brand name HeiQ V-Block in the USA.

The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has increased crop estimates for 2019-20 season to 33.55 million bales of 170 kg each compared to its previous estimate of 33.00 million bales made during the last month. Crop estimate finalized by the CAI for 2018-19 was 31.20million bales of 170 kg each. Total estimated cotton supply till end of the cotton season 2018-19 is 38.25 million bales of 170 kg each which consists of the opening stock of 3.2 million bales, crop for the season estimated at 33.55 million bales and imports estimated by CAI at 1.50 million bales. Imports are estimated to be lower by 1.7 million bales compared to the previous year’s estimate of 3.2 million bales.

According to the association, domestic consumption for the entire crop year has been estimated at 28.0 million bales, i.e. at the same level as estimated in the last month. The consumption for the crop year 2019-20 was earlier estimated by the CAI at 33.1 million bales but the same was later reduced by 5.1 million bales due to the lower consumption of cotton on account of disruptions caused by the Covid-19 pandemic in the country.

The CAI has retained its export estimate for the season at the same level as estimated in the previous month i.e. at 4.7 million bales against 4.2 million bales estimated earlier.

The increase of 0.50 million bales in the export estimate than estimated in the previous year was made looking to the favorable conditions existing for exports of cotton from India. The carryover stock estimated at the end of the season is 5.55 million bales.

The estimate of cotton imports into India has been maintained at the same level as estimated in the previous month i.e. at 1.5 million bales. This import estimate is lower by 1.7 million bales compared to that estimated for the last year. The Indian cotton arrivals during the months of October 2019 to June 2020 are estimated at 32.70 million bales of 170 kg each. The closing stock as on September 30, 2020 is estimated at 5.55 million bales of 170 kg each.

GlobalData Retail has revealed Ralph Lauren Corp’s revenue plunged nearly $1 billion in the first quarter ended June 27, as the company struggled with coronavirus-led store closures and a slowdown in demand for luxury goods across the world. The company's revenue slumped 77 per cent in North America, with analysts not expecting demand for high-end handbags, apparels and accessories to rebound quickly as the global economy enters a recession.

Ralph Lauren is more exposed to the health crisis than other apparel companies as its jackets, coats and dresses are designed for social or formal occasions. The company’s net revenue fell by 66 per cent to $487.5 million, missing analysts' average estimate of $615 million, according to IBES data from Refinitiv.

Ralph Lauren also reported a mere 3 per cent rise in North American online sales, a far cry from triple-digit sales increases recorded by a number of US retailers. The company reported a net loss of $127.7 million, or $1.75 per share, in the first quarter ended June 27, compared with a profit of $117.1 million, or $1.47 per share, a year earlier.

With its motto of protecting others and the planet, Plymouth-based Project Plan B is urging designers and product developers to think about products’ end of working life. The organization has launched first fully recyclable face mask, made from recycled plastic currently being marketed by 1TCA.

The organization believes industry has the potential to reduce their impact on the environment. It aims to be the catalyst for positive change in the textile industry and hopes other companies to provide 100 per cent recycled ranges. Project Plan B began its journey by providing a manufacturing solution to less flexible, larger corporations by pulling together resources and expertise from across the globe. However, it quickly realized this was not going to be enough if the garment just ended up in landfill after use.

Therefore, the project began to address not only the use of non-renewable resources in producing fabric, but elongated its garments’ life by making them from 100 per cent recycled materials. Each of these garments are designed to 100 percent recycled.

The Sustainability Report 2019 report highlights the key sustainability initiatives of Bestseller in the first year of its Fashion FWD strategy. Working with Life and Building Safety (LABS), Bestseller has helped improve the working conditions of apparel workers – especially in India – by addressing risks related to fire and electrical hazards, structural building safety and by providing proper safety training for workers.

Since 2015, the company has been engaged with five factories and 16,834 workers in its social dialogue Program in Bangladesh. By 2021, the company plans to achieve 100 per cent remediation and safety training under the Bangladesh Accord.

By 2025, its retail chain will support 100,000 women in Tier-1 factories to achieve workplace empowerment and improved life skills. In the same time frame, it will support all Tier-1 factories in implementing digital payment of wages. The company has intensified its partnership with BSR to become a catalyst member and a long-term partner of HERproject™, further accelerating its goal of supporting 100,000 women in Tier-1 factories.

It has started a new partnership with BHive and piloted their chemical management tool with 18 facilities in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and Turkey. By 2025, the company will use 100 per cent approved and traceable chemicals in all its core products.

Experts agree that Asian markets in China, India and Japan will help Bangladeshi clothing exporters increase exports in coming days with recent export changes at traditional US and EU strongholds. While China offers the largest domestic clothing market after the US, Bangladesh’s exports to India will hit $115 billion by 2026.

Asiv Ibrahim, Managing Director, Newage Group, therefore advises Bangladesh manufacturers to create contacts with prominently Indian retailers and build a long-term relationship based on mutual confidence and profit. Shahidullah Azim, Ex Vice-President, BGMEA, adds that the increased costs of production in India following the introduction of the goods and services tax (GST) can provide a further boost to clothing imports from Bangladesh.

In addition, Bangladesh should concentrate more on Asian markets to revive its export revenues amid the COVID-19 outbreak. Asian markets, especially India and China, are very relevant from the export perspective of Bangladesh, says Mustafizur Rahman, Center for Policy Dialog (CPD). In addition, China lately became Bangladeshi RMG makers’ main export destination. Bangladeshi textile exporters were making steady incomes into China and exporting cotton-based textile to China, says Mohammad Hatem, Vice-President, BKMEA.

COVID-19 has made the returns process much more easier and eco-friendly than earlier, says Charlotte Monk-Chipman, Marketing Director, ReBound, which has worked with Asos since 2015, as well as Toms and PrettyLittleThing, among others. Earlier, customers had to download and print their labels and return information at home. Now, they can fill the required information via online forms or through their mobile apps. Retailers like Asos, Boohoo, Karen Millen and MissPap have even launched a returns portal to streamline operations and reduce waste.

In May this year, returns optimization platform Optoro studied the return habits of more than 2,000 US residents. The study noted a decline in total returns through the pandemic period. However, they are likely to make a comeback as stores reopen, says Ann Starodaj, Senior Director-Sustainability, Optoro.

Promoting ‘green’ returns

Earlier, shoppers, particularly those in the older age group preferred to return items in-store, even if they hand purchased them online. The pandemic has pushed retailers to launch online returns services. It has also compelled retailers to make returns policies more flexible and extend offers up to 90 days or unlimited.

Besides introducing flexible returns policies, retailers are also making the process more green. San Francisco-based online retailer Pact handles every return on a case-by-case basis. The retailer calculates the carbon footprint for the customer’s chosen shipping option and aims to roll out a carbon footprint measure for individual products later this year.

Similarly, Returnly, a turnkey returns management solution allows customers to keep their products free of cost thus reducing waste and supply chain and carbon costs. The company uses machine-learning and data science to direct real-time decision-making on whether individual items can be resold.

Options for managing returns

Returns can prove be a thorn for brands and retailers as serial returners may abuse their carbon-conscious returns model. In such a case, businesses need to be patient with shoppers as they have little indication of their current sizes says Monk-Chipman. Their rate of returns may reduce once they self-regulate their sizing issues.

McKinsey & Co’s latest survey indicates, the pandemic provides retailers with an opportunity to reset operations and shift to the online sale model. Unprepared businesses may end up land filling the anticipated surge in returns, opines Emily Cotterill, Head-Sustainability, ReBound. Her platform has been helping retailers’ keep returned items in circulation by exploring solutions for charitable donations, quality checks at return hubs and providing more data and insight to help understand what drives returns. This has helped the company to reduce its carbon emissions in the US by 36 per cent.