Premium denim ingredient brand ISKO has signed a licensing agreement with textile research and development company HKRITA to develop the revolutionary Green Machine – a one-of-a-kind technology that fully separates and recycles cotton and polyester blends at scale.

This will help ISKO improve and commercialize recycling technologies which will eventually enable the company to offer a 100 per cent post-consumer recycling solution to all of its customers. In addition, ISKO and HKRITA will work together to develop related technology, strengthening the company’s position as a leader in sustainability.

Fatih Konukoğlu, CEO, ISKO says, the Green Machine uses an innovative and ultra-efficient hydrothermal treatment method that decomposes cotton into cellulose powders and enables the separation of polyester fibres from blended fabrics. The process is a closed loop and uses only water, heat and less than 5 per cent biodegradable green chemicals. Crucially, this method maintains the quality of polyester fibers; the cellulose powders, which are clean and toxic-free, can be used in a variety of ways.

Investment in this new technology is the latest in ISKO’s ongoing drive for advancements in sustainability. As a part of the company’s R-TWO™ program, it is also working to develop fabrics with a guaranteed minimum 50 per cent+ GRS (Global Recycle Standard) recycled content blend. This will significantly reduce the carbon and water footprint of a fabric, as well as make it easy for consumers to trace a garment’s sustainable journey step-by-step from the beginning of the supply chain through to the end product they purchase.

Hong Kong-based leading textile and apparel manufacturer Esquel Group has filed a lawsuit against the US Department of Commerce over the erroneous inclusion of its subsidiary on US Entity List. The lawsuit has been filed in the US District Court for the District of Columbia seeking relief from the economic and reputational harms caused by the placement of its subsidiary - Changji Esquel Textile Co - on the US Entity List, reports Global Times

The listing falsely implicated Changji Esquel in using forced labor in the Xinjiang region, a conclusion that contradicts the facts, including audits by multiple world-class, third-party independent auditors using internationally recognized industry standards such as the SMETA standard, read the statement.

These audits involved site visits to facilities in the region and independent interviews with randomly selected Uygur workers. In every instance, the audits found no evidence of forced labor or coercion. Further, the Changji Esquel facility is highly automated and technologically advanced, and it requires highly skilled workers - the opposite of a business model reliant on underpaid labor, it continued.

Hong Kong-based leading textile and apparel manufacturer Esquel Group has filed a lawsuit against the US Department of Commerce over the erroneous inclusion of its subsidiary on US Entity List. The lawsuit has been filed in the US District Court for the District of Columbia seeking relief from the economic and reputational harms caused by the placement of its subsidiary - Changji Esquel Textile Co - on the US Entity List, reports Global Times

The listing falsely implicated Changji Esquel in using forced labor in the Xinjiang region, a conclusion that contradicts the facts, including audits by multiple world-class, third-party independent auditors using internationally recognized industry standards such as the SMETA standard, read the statement.

These audits involved site visits to facilities in the region and independent interviews with randomly selected Uygur workers. In every instance, the audits found no evidence of forced labor or coercion. Further, the Changji Esquel facility is highly automated and technologically advanced, and it requires highly skilled workers - the opposite of a business model reliant on underpaid labor, it continued.

Bluesign has revised its chemical substances list. As per Textile World, the revision incorporates new scientific knowledge on the toxicological and ecological profile of substances, new legal classification of chemical substances, new legal consumer safety limits, revised risk assessments based on the Bluesign® Criteria for chemical assessment, feedback from experts of the Chemical Expert Group (CEG) as well as new analytical standards.

The revision covers all updates to the restrictions for chemical substances published in BSSL (bluesign system substances list); BSBL (bluesign system black limits); and bluesign RSL. The bluesign system substances list (BSSL) specifies limits for chemical substances in articles (consumer safety limits). The compilation of substances in the BSBL includes all substances for which a precautionary hazard-based threshold limit is defined.

The bluesign RSL is an extract of the BSSL and contains consumer safety limits and recommended testing methods for the most important and legally restricted substances in textile and leather articles and accessories.

2021 revisions include stringent restriction on free aniline content in chemical products; aniline reduced indigo mandatory for bluesign® Approved indigo types and restriction of aniline in other dyes and auxiliaries with a limit of 500 mg/kg.

The revised BSBL is valid for all new bluesign Finder registrations from July 1st, 2021. For already existing bluesign Approved chemicals, a transition period until July 1, 2022 is valid to comply with the revised sections.

In a recent meeting with the ambassador of Switzerland in Bangladesh, Faruque Hassan, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) the latter sought 10 year extension to the Everything But Arms (EBA) scheme under its GSP program from Switzerland. Extension would make Bangladesh’s transition to a developing economic smoother.

The meeting discussed issues pertinent to the readymade garment industry in Bangladesh, and its progress in the social and environmental sustainability. The BGMEA chief applauded Swiss envoy for the transformation the industry has made over the past years.

The participants also highlighted the future potential of the industry and the need for industry up-grading particularly in skills and efficiency enhancement, technological expertise, and diversification of products (especially non-cotton). The BGMEA sought support from the embassy of Switzerland on the need for unified code of conduct for social audits and collaboration to promote the untold stories of the industry’s transformation.

The potential of foreign investment in non-cotton and technical textiles, light engineering sector and high end apparel items was encouraged. The Swiss ambassador expressed her satisfaction about the progress of the industry in the area of sustainable manufacturing and assured the support from the Swiss government.

A hybrid edition of apparel and textile trade show Gartex Texprocess will be held from December 3 to 5 at the Pragati Maidan in New Delhi. The trade show will combine online features with a physical event to enable people to browse businesses and their products remotely or attend in person. The hybrid concept also facilitates social distancing measures along with other health and safety protocol as the pandemic continues.

Through this event, Gartex Texprocess aims to cater to the entire textile value chain with event segments Denim Show, Embroidery Zone, Garmenting and Apparel Machinery, Digitex Show, India Laundry Show, Fabrics and Trims Show, and Screen Print India. Each segment will feature a range of related businesses to increase ease of navigation at the event and online. The trade show’s online platform will enable attendees to make ‘wish lists’ of businesses they are interested in interacting with, book networking appointments via video call, attend live sessions, and get linked with relevant suppliers through its ‘matchmaking’ tool.

Gartex Texprocess is supported by the Clothing Manufacturing Association of India and the Apparel Export Promotion Council. The trade show is organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India.

In its latest financing round, circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company secured €30 million (approx. $35M). The company’s investors included sportswear company adidas and Invest FWD A/S, Danish fashion group Bestseller’s investment arm for sustainable fashion. The capital raised will go towards boosting regenerated fibers production at its pilot facilities.

Infinited Fiber uses its patented technology to convert materials rich in cellulose, like textile waste, discarded cardboard, and wood into high-quality natural fibres. The company claims that these fibres match the qualities found in virgin fibres. Its Infinna fiber looks and feels like cotton.

These can then be easily dyed, used individually, or be blended with other fibres to produce new items. They can be many times, as the biodegradable fibres don’t contain any plastic elements or impurities. The company has plans to open a flagship factory in Finland, especially since brands like H&M, PVH Corp, the parent company of Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, Wrangler, and Patagonia have shown interest in its regenerated textile fiber Infinna.

The factory will use household textile waste as raw material. It is estimated to begin operations in 2024 with an annual production capacity of 30,000 metric tons. The new capital will go towards setting up this factory and ramp up production at its pilot facilities in the years leading to 2024.

US’ import of cotton trousers increased by 27.74 per cent in value terms to $ 4.58 billion and by 38.51 per cent in quantities to 81.68 million dozen during January-May ’21 period – according to the latest OTEXA data.

Bangladesh continued being on top of the tally with $1 billion worth of cotton trouser shipment to USA – marking 15.76 per cent yearly surge.

As far as quantity is concerned, Bangladesh again topped the tally surpassing China with 19.05 million dozen of trousers’ shipment, while the latter exported 17.05 million dozen of cotton trousers to US and noted 66.52 per cent yearly surge in the review period.

Whereas, China’s value-wise shipment increased by 49.71 per cent to $ 622.38 million.

With smooth fabrics and innovative designs, designer Adriano Goldschmied’s new indigo sweater demonstrates an innovative approach to indigo dyeing. As per a Business of Fashion report, instead of coloring the cotton yarn from outside, the indigo dye was added by Austria-based Lenzing AG during its creation of eco-friendly cellulose fiber Tencel Modal. The T-shirt made from this fiber has designs demonstrating its reduced water, chemical, electricity and energy use. It helps designers reduce the environmental impact of their clothes besides offering more designing options.

Waste creation makes indigo dyeing a messy process

Even though denim brands have lately being using natural dyes obtained from plants and animals, dyeing continues to be a messy process. It requires around 70,000 tons of indigo dye annually. Most of this dye eventually ends up as waste as it is removed after the stitching of denim to give it a faded look. This amplifies the environmental effects by consuming more water and chemicals, and producing ample waste.

Since the late 1990s, there have been many improvements in the process of indigo dyeing. Denim brand Jeanologia launched computer-driven laser equipment to produce the distressed looks sought by designers. Initially, the designs produced through this process looked too simple, explains Gary You, Director-Strategy and Product Development, House of Gold, Goldschmied’s Los Angeles-based design and supply-chain agency.

Ozone dyed fibers for a distressed look

Graphic designers gave denims a subtle effect by using the gray-scale. They later used Ozone rather than water and bleach to achieve the stone-washed effect. This helped reduce environmental impacts and make denim production more flexible. Ozone also makes Lenzing’s new indigo fibre commercially feasible as it does not shed color unlike traditional indigo-dyed yarn.

Ozone-dyed fibers also help manufacturers give fabrics a distressed look as consumers loved blue shade. House of Gold meanwhile, combines treatments and techniques to give denim the desired shade of medium blue.

The dyeing process usually starts with fabrics of darker shades being repeatedly washed to reduce its color effect. House of Gold reduces its denim dyeing time from 60 to 25 minutes by substituting traditional dyes with an ozone wash for a specially dyed denim. The process also enables the company reduce energy and water use by eliminating three to four wash cycles.

The indigo dyeing process traces its origins in human drives that long predate the current fashion markets. Since long, textile manufacturers and industry leaders have been seeking natural dyes to maintain the beauty of their garments. They need to collaborate with environmental torch-bearers and sustainability lovers to make indigo dyeing truly sustainable.

With apparel exports growing at 15 per cent in FY21, Bangladesh has emerged as the surprise beneficiary from Myanmar’s military crisis and COVID-19 outbreak in India. The country is witnessing rapid surge in orders from European and US buyers owing to better ethical and health protocols maintained by garment factories.

Comparatively, garment factories in Myanmar suspended operations due to the military coup, notes Ahsan H Mansur, Executive Director, Policy Research Institute. India too, is struggling with COVID crisis that has disrupted labor availability and logistical system, Mansur explains. Both factors are responsible for fuelling growth in Bangladesh apparel exports, believes Zahid Hussain, Former Lead Economist, World Bank.

Order surge strengthens market position

Local apparel producers in Bangladesh have been getting additional orders from buyers since the last few months, affirms Mohammad Halem, Managing Director, MB Knit Fashion and Vice President, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA). His company has also received additional orders from buyers in recent months. Meanwhile, US-based Walt Disney too plans to restart sourcing from India after suspending operations in 2013, informs Faruque Hassan, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). This will help Bangladesh reinstate its position in the global RMG industry, particularly in areas of workplace safety, social standards and environmental sustainability, he adds.

Safety compliant factories to be Disney’s new vendors

As per the agreement signed between two BGMEA and Walt Disney, factories participating in the International Labor Organization's (ILO) Better Work Bangladesh (BWB) program will be added to Disney’s new vendor list. Currently, the BWB program has 277 local RMG factories as members. These factories will also participate in the Nirapon or RMG Sustainability Council along with specific remediation fulfilment criteria, adds Hassan.

The Bangladesh garment industry is making exceptional efforts in maintaining safety standards in garment factories. The industry not only ensures a proper remediation process in garment factories but also works towards creating a safe and healthy workspace for workers, adds Hassan.