Peru’s textile exports are up 10 per cent. Much of the textile exports comprise shirts, T-shirts and cardigans made of cotton or woven of alpaca. Peruvian exports have had a positive record over the past three years, due to the development of a public-private promotion strategy based on the needs of clothing manufacturers. The idea is to develop a much more intense promotion program in terms of presentations of the Peru Moda format in Asia and Europe, and with more specialized missions in Latin America. The challenge for the industry is to start with cotton and alpaca, add new fiber blends, step up the technology and come up with value-added products for the market. One area which Peru’s designers are working on, and which buyers from the United States and Europe are interested in, is the development of organic cotton and other sustainable fashion fibers because of their minimum impact on the environment. Peru is trying to get a clearer understanding of international market trends and stimulate networking among Peruvian export firms.

The United States is the biggest market for Peruvian textiles followed by Brazil and Chile. New products have been developed for exports including children’s clothes, pajamas, haberdashery and articles for the home. Lines have also been developed for children, teens and adults.

World Fashion Convention, organized by the International Apparel Federation (IAF), will be held in Pakistan in November 2019. The move is expected to place the country’s textile sector in global limelight. The event held in a different country each year aims at building a smarter, stronger and sustainable global supply chain of textile products.

IAF is an international trade association whose members comprise national clothing associations and companies having core businesses of sourcing, designing, development, manufacturing, distribution and retail of apparel products. The federation has a presence in 60 countries with more than 150,000 companies on board. In previous years, the convention was held in Hong Kong, Netherlands, Brazil, India, US and China. This year IAF chose Pakistan because of its prominent textile and apparel sector, which has considerable growth potential.

The convention is seen as an unique opportunity for Pakistan’s apparel industry to learn new techniques. It provides participants an opportunity to discuss issues faced by the global industry and also to network at a global level. Pakistan is struggling to enhance its export base and is making the utmost efforts to attract foreign investments. Provision of clothing to the rising population in a sustainable manner would be a big challenge.

Apparel Textile Sourcing Miami will be held from May 28 to 30, 2019 attracting more than 10,000 fashion industry representatives who will get a first-hand view of new developments and insights in the apparel and textile market — from concept to consumer. The show has put together the most comprehensive sourcing seminars, expert panels and Q&A segments to arm representatives across all segments of the industry — brands, retailers, e-commerce sellers, designers, importers and buying offices — with the knowledge, tools and practical solutions they need to address current industry issues and navigate through the rapidly-transforming sourcing ecosystem.

The educational sessions will take place on the show floor alongside 300 exhibits of the latest in apparel and textile products and services from more than 15 countries. Specialists in fashion strategy and brand development will reveal valuable tips on everything designers needs to know about breaking through the clutter and launching a successful collection. Design industry experts will share top mistakes designers make and how to avoid them. A panel of top industry experts will provide guidance on how companies can launch, convert and grow their sustainable operations.

In addition to the show’s exhibits and conference sessions, ATSM will deliver a world-class fashion show, representing local and international designers, up-and-coming student talent and global fashions presented by show exhibitors.

Indonesia’s e-commerce industry is growing at 78 per cent, the fastest growing in the world. Indonesia is followed by Mexico with a growth rate of 59 per cent and the Philippines with a growth rate of 51 per cent. In these three countries clothing retail and footwear sectors are the major contributors for the e-commerce growth. Growing incomes, increasing awareness, high aspirations and technological advancements are some of the few things that are helping the e-commerce market to grow big every year in these economies.

India with 27 per cent, Colombia with 45 per cent, the UAE with 33 per cent and China with 27 per cent are some of the other fast growing e-commerce markets in terms of percentage growth. In the European Union, e-commerce is growing by 16 per cent a year on an average. While Brexit continues to cast a shadow of uncertain trading relationships between the EU and British businesses, these findings demonstrate a clear opportunity for British retailers to explore other alternative global markets. Significant e-commerce growth in countries that weren’t previously a priority offers British businesses the chance to extend their global reach, as long as they can meet local payment preferences.

Mexico’s cotton production is at a 30 year high. But this increased production has lowered demand for US cotton. So far the US has accounted for nearly all of Mexico’s cotton imports. Because of stipulations outlined in trade agreements requiring the use of US cotton, Mexico’s imports have not yet fallen as much as production has climbed.

If Mexico’s production were to remain high for an extended period, it could make further inroads into domestic mill use as the downstream demand becomes more accustomed to the greater supply of local cotton. A successful outcome resolving US-China trade tensions could also reduce Mexico’s export opportunities, increasing pressure to use cotton domestically. Neither of these outcomes bode well for US cotton exports to Mexico.

As for other countries, Turkey’s cotton imports are projected down. Weaker exports could force India to reduce its imports by the same amount. Vietnam’s declining mill use could represent a decrease in cotton imports. When it comes to cotton exports, Australia, whose exports are forecast to increase by 2,00,000 bales, has been buoyed by China’s growing demand. Turkey’s exports could also grow by 1,00,000 bales due to declining domestic mill use while India’s exports are expected down 3,00,000 bales and Burkina Faso’s down 1,50,000 bales due to smaller crop sizes.

Filatex India plans to initiate an Rs 420 crore capacity expansion project at its Dahej plant in Gujarat. The project involves increasing the polyester yarn production to 3.90 lakh tonne per annum with an investment of Rs 275 crore besides setting up a 31.40 MW captive power plant with an investment of Rs 145 crore. Post this expansion, Filatex will emerge the fourth largest polyester yarn producer with a revenue of Rs 600 crore.

The company has already placed orders for machinery and the project will be completed by the next fiscal. The captive power plant, to be operational by FY’21 will substantially reduce the cost of power besides increasing Ebidta margins to 12 per cent. Filatex plans to venture into manufacturing of the polyester fabric in FY’21 with an investment of Rs 200 crore. The company will manufacture manmade polyester.

China is showing interest in cotton from the United States. This is in anticipation of a positive trade deal between China and the United States. While China normally goes in for high quality cotton, it is interested in lower grades (31 and 41 color grade) at a discounted price.

China has traditionally been a large buyer of US cotton and a massive supplier of products back to the US market. About 95 per cent of the American Pima crop is exported every year and typically China imports about 40 per cent of that crop. The highly prized long-staple American Pima cotton is soft to the touch and durable.

China accounts for one-third of total global mill use for cotton. For the 2018-2019 marketing year, China may increase its imports by at least seven million bales or higher to meet its mill needs. Chinese mills like US cotton for its quality, its consistency and its low contamination. China is the US’ most efficient market to ship to in the world so it keeps costs down. China produced roughly 26 million bales last year, leaving a gap of 15 million bales where it turned to imports and stocks to meet the shortfall.

Bangladesh now leads denim garment making across the globe as it has already developed a strong washing capacity. Work orders from US buyers are increasing as they are decreasing their sourcing from China due to the trade war between the two countries.

Due to the growing demand, especially for more value-added products, a few denim fabric makers are now introducing the latest technology including rope dyeing. Rope dyeing is considered to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn as the short dyeing time doesn’t allow indigo to fully penetrate the fibers, thus creating ring-dyed yarn that fades better and faster than fully-dyed yarn. Shade variation is comparatively lower in the rope dyeing process than the most used slashed dyeing. Less water is consumed while chemical use is high. Another aspect of the process is it provides a deep indigo look, the unique look that denim lovers are looking for. Though rope dyeing machinery installation cost is higher than slashed dyeing, buyers offer a ten to 15 cent higher price due to its color and quality.

Bangladesh is now the top denim supplier to the European Union, overtaking China, and the third largest to the US, after China and Mexico.

As per United Nations Climate Change, the fashion industry, which accounts for 10 per cent of the world’s carbon footprint and 20 per cent of waste water, is likely to consume a quarter of its global resources by 2050. This pollution is more prevalent in Asia, the largest manufacturer and exporter of clothing and textiles. A majority of production takes place in China with the country’s clothing production accounting for an estimated third of the industry’s global carbon footprint, primarily on account of its reliance on coal-powered plants.

As per United Nations Climate Change, the fashion industry, which accounts for 10 per cent of the world’s carbon footprint and 20 per cent of waste water, is likely to consume a quarter of its global resources by 2050. This pollution is more prevalent in Asia, the largest manufacturer and exporter of clothing and textiles. A majority of production takes place in China with the country’s clothing production accounting for an estimated third of the industry’s global carbon footprint, primarily on account of its reliance on coal-powered plants. Asian eco-minded entrepreneurs are viewing all aspects from education to supply-chain solutions and elegant “trashion” collections made from waste to tackle these issues.

Circular principles

More than 75 per cent of the world’s top-polluting cities are located in China. To deal with this issue, Christina Dean, a Hong Kong based journalist, founded Redress, a Hong Kong-based NGO, in 2007. The NGO works with global brands and organisations to reduce textile waste and introduce circular principles such as producing and using renewable resources, recycling waste, and increasing products’ longevity. It produces Frontline Fashion, an online docu-series, and the annual Redress Design Awards. Today, Redress is conventionally referred to as the largest sustainable-design competition in the world.

Dean also pioneered upcycled-fashion brand and social-impact business called The R Collective. Launched in February, the label turns trash to treasure. Its inaugural “Start From Zero” collection is made entirely from rescued waste from textile mills in Italy and Japan upcycled into pieces like artistic, architectural dresses and sharply tailored blazers.

Turning discarded textiles into new fabrics

As per McKinsey & Co and Business of Fashion’s joint report, 2019 State of Fashion, China is expected to become the world’s largest apparel market this year. However, it also produces 26 million tons of textile waste a year, compared to the 16 million ton produced by the US, 1 million ton by India, and roughly 500,000 ton by Bangladesh.

According to Sissi Chao, a member at Shanghai’s WeWork 819 West Nanjing Rd, every textile that is thrown away could be turned into a new yarn or woven into a new fabric. She founded RemakeHub, a business-to-business social enterprise platform that provides waste-management solutions to fashion and lifestyle clients in 2018. The platform cultivated roughly 50 new sustainable materials, all recycled from trash.

The company, in 2018, also teamed up with Futian Environment Charity to recycle roughly 2,500 donated T-shirts into backpacks for underprivileged children in China’s western Qinghai Province.

Recycling fabric scraps into accessories

India’s garment industry also pollutes land and water besides generating enormous amounts of waste. Being the world’s largest producer of cotton, India also faces serious problems such as health issues among farmers exposed to insecticides, and devastating droughts. Launched by Mahima Gujral, Sui collection is a sustainable spinoff of her family’s business. It pays homage to nature with a closed-loop production process in which the brand’s waste is recycled into new products. Sui recycles its packaging and upcycled fabric scraps (or “deadstock”) into accessories like mobile phone holders and headbands.

Instead of using conventional cotton, Gujral sources pesticide-free hemp and organic cotton that’s been certified by international verification organisation Global Organic Textile Standard.

One of Sui’s most effective decisions was to implement a “slow fashion” model, in which brands craft made-to-order garments one-by-one to avoid overstock. Instead of low-cost, mass-produced clothing, Sui does not make a clothing item until she receives an order for it, thus minimising waste and enhancing the durability of its clothes.

Denim manufacturing firms are making major investments in factories from the US to China to meet market demands and improve their environmental footprint.

Curbing excess use of water

A new textile maker, Vidalia Denim recently opened in a 900,000 sq. ft. facility in Vidalia, La., in the Mississippi Delta region. To employ over 300 full-time workers to make denim, this mill will be fully commercially operational in the first quarter of 2019. Its indigo dye technology will curb total water usage by more than 60 per cent compared to a legacy mill. The brand will also use e3 sustainable cotton exclusively in its operations, sourcing its cotton from across the U.S. farm belt.

Promoting eco-friendly cotton

Bayer CropScience has launched a new e3 cotton program that enables farmers to grow cotton in a less impactful way. Independent auditors will certify a farmer’s commitment to grow e3 cotton in an environmentally responsible, economically viable and socially equitable manner in the U.S.

Chinese denim mill Seazon plans to increase the number looms to 630. In line with this, Seazon will also introduce a new intelligent wastewater recycling system to its dyeing and finishing process, which will reuse more than 80 per cent of its wastewater.

Denim fiber firms expand capacity, global reach

Driven largely by shifts in sourcing patterns and increasing demand for sustainability, major denim fiber firms are building up their capacities and global reach. Invista’s Cordura brand has launched TrueLock, a next generation of durable colors. This fiber is made from Invista’s nylon 6.6 multi-filament fiber that is solution dyed, locking the color in at the molten polymer extrusion level to create deep, durable color throughout the fiber. The company further plans to expand the Cordura TrueLock filament product line to introduce additional standard colors and deniers.

The Lenzing Group, a major producer of wood-based cellulosic fibers, is in the midst of growing its capacity and upgrading its facilities. The company is investing more than €100 million ($116.5 million) in sustainable manufacturing technologies and production facilities through 2022. The company’s Refibra technology transforms cotton scraps from apparel production and wood pulp from responsibly managed forests into virgin Tencel lyocell fibers. The fibers are manufactured in a closed-loop production process using bioenergy.

Lenzing has also formed a joint venture with Duratex, to build the largest—a 450,000 ton capacity—single line dissolving wood pulp (DWP) plant in the state of Minas Gerais, close to São Paulo, Brazil. The estimated investment for the construction of this DWP mill is expected to be over $1 billion, and the joint venture will supply the entire volume of dissolving wood pulp to the Lenzing Group.

Increasing share of Spandex market

Korean company Hyosung Corp is making a $100 million investment in its first spandex plant in Maharashtra, India, which is expected to be operational by 2019. Hyosung aims to increase its share of the Indian spandex market to 70 per cent from the current 60 per cent. This would bring the company’s total number of plants to nine globally, with additional investment planned for total capacity of 390,000 tonnes globally by 2020. To make Vietnam a global production base for all of its core products, Hyosung established Hyosung Vietnam in the Nhon Trach industrial complex with an investment of approximately $1.5 billion.