Sneaker brand Converse has teamed up with Dior Men’s artistic director Kim Jones to launch a new range of luxury sneakers known as the Chuck 70. The range has a streetwear feel and features a transparent TPU cage and a trompe-l'oeil sole, which looks like a platform. It also has Kim Jones name printed on the tongue and sockliner.

The limited-edition sneakers will be sold from April 8 on Converse.com and will reportedly be joined by accompanying apparel. Lately, Converse has been teaming up with major fashion houses and renowned designers. Its latest collaborations with Comme des Garçons and Rick Owens –helped it transform the Chuck 70 with a punk-inspired version.

Converse is an American shoe company that designs, distributes, and licenses sneakers, skating shoes, lifestyle brand footwear, apparel, and accessories. Founded in 1908, it has been a subsidiary of Nike, Inc. since 2003.

COVID-19 changed public consumption patterns across the world last year. As per Indonesia’s industry ministry, consumption of textile and apparel products (T&A) declined to -8.8 per cent on an annual basis during the year. And as Redma Wirawasta, Secretary General, Association of Indonesian Fiber and Filament Yarn Producers (APSyFI) says, sale of yarn declined to less than 5 per cent before Eid. T&A exports declined to -17 per cent Y-o-Y in 2020, reports Indo Textiles. This further led to a 13 per cent decline in employment rates last year.

PPEs can lead exports

However, the Indonesian textile and apparel industry has the ability to rise from this low by encouraging PPE exports, points out Agus Gumiwang, Minister of Industry. Ministry of Industry's Medical Device Monitoring Dashboard (DMA) informs, Indonesia has a capacity to manufacture 39.6 million pieces of PPEs per month or 356.4 million per year. The country can produce 24.9 million pieces of surgical gowns per month or 224.4 million pieces per year. Its capacity to produce medical masks has reached 405.9 million pieces per month or 3.7 billion per year. It currently produces 360,000 pieces of N95 masks per month or 3.2 million pieces per year.

Against this, Indonesia requires only 14.9 million pieces of PPE, 7.5 million pieces of surgical clothes and 176.6 million pieces of surgical masks. Hence, the country has a surplus of 341.5 million pieces of PPE, 216.8 million pieces of surgical clothing, and 3.4 billion surgical masks by the end of 2021. It can export medical devices worth $ 4.54 billion. Of this, it can export PPE worth $3.16 billion, surgical clothing worth $618.03 million, and surgical masks worth $764.69 million.

Demand to boost domestic production capacity

However, Indonesia has been unable to fully optimize its export potential. In 2020, it exported new medical devices worth only $197.6 million. This included PPEs worth $2.47 million, surgical clothing worth $20.29 million, different masks worth $75.19 million, and N95 respirator masks worth $74.09 million. Elis Masitoh, Director-Textile, Leather and Footwear Industry, Ministry of Industry, attributes this to lack of demand for medical devices from abroad. He believes, an increase in demand can boost domestic production capacity of medical devices. Rizal Tanzil Rakhman, Secretary General, Indonesian Textile Association (API) opines, lack of demand for masks and PPE made in Indonesia is due to its inability to compete with other exporters. He advises the government to encourage trade promotion by Indonesian trade ambassadors in various countries.

As per Ministry of Trade, in 2020 most of Indonesia’s trade attaches and even the Indonesian Trade Promotion Center (ITPC) underperformed in exports. Exports to only 11 out of 33 countries increased. This included China, with an increase of 15.59 per cent, United States, Netherlands, Switzerland, Germany, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Egypt, Russia and Chile The country, therefore, needs to promote trade with ambassadors in other countries, emphasizes Rizal.

Despite being known as the green fiber of the 21st century, prices of lyocell’s prices increased only 6 per cent in January-February 2021 period, while prices of most other fibers increased over 30 per cent. As per a CCF Group report, one reason for this is the slackness in demand due to China’s Lunar New Year holiday. Prices of other fibers grew rapidly in the first two months with easy liquidity in world market. However, prices of most chemical fibers fell after the COVID-19 outbreak last year. For instance, prices of VSF fell to 8.300 yuan/mt in mid- 2020, which was significantly lower than 2015 price levels. Even though prices increased slightly in October, they reached the two low points by mid-December

Low scale, lack of standardization hinders demand

A chemical fiber, VSF is easy to store and circulate. It is used for asset appreciation, controlling raw material costs, or for preserving assets. This encourages downstream companies to buy the fiber in large quantities at the time. The introduction of ‘stay-put’ measures during Spring Festival as well as continuous improvement in supply chain has further strengthened demand for these fibers.

On the other hand, lyocell fiber is still in initial stages of development in China. The standardization of this fiber is low and industrial chain is also not fully developed. The fiber is made on a small scale by domestic enterprises and is not circulated properly.

Immature application squeezing profit margins

Lyocell fiber’s capacity in China is said to have exceeded 200kt/yr by 2020-end. However, its actual utilization rate is less than 50 per cent. This imbalance is a result of immature applications while supplies are growing, this blocks price hike besides squeezing profits.

Stakeholders need to take a serious view of these challenges and boost the use of lyocell fibers. The first Lyocell Fiber Industry Forum to be held simultaneously with the 15th China Hanghzou Cellulose Fiber (Viscose) Industry Forum aims to tackles such issues plaguing the industry.

The pandemic caused a seismic shift in fashion retail last year and retailers expect this change continue in future. Figures from UK’s Office of National Statistics show, fashion sales plunged 75.7 per cent and 49.3 per cent in March and April last year. By the end of the year, clothing sales declined almost 25.1 per cent, says a Drapers Online report.

Lockdown restrictions compelled shoppers to shop online, giving a boost to sales of digital fashion retailers. From September to December last year, Boohoo Group’s sale rose 40 per cent while those of Asos rose 35 per cent. Independent retailer Wolfe & Badger also recorded an increase in online sales during the period.

Digital platforms record high sales

Online sales became the common theme for fashion retailers in 2020 with sales of John Lewis growing 70 per cent by December 2020. The retailer also noted consumers’ growing preferences for shopping during the day rather than evening. Another retailer, Joules also witnessed a shift in consumers’ shopping habits as its digital sales increased from 20 to 70 per cent of its total sales.

Joules improved its digital platform by adding more relevant product listing, enhancing its products filtering, enabling a more seamless search of products and improving website’s navigation. It also added new payment options such as Klarna, Apple Pay and Google Pay.

New technologies to attract shoppers

The rise in online sales also encouraged fashion retailers to use new technologies to interact with shoppers. Wolf & Badger moved events, panels and workshops to Instagram, which enables it to reach a much wider audience, says George Graham, Co-founder and CEO. Similarly, John Lewis launched online personal styling appointments via Instagram. It’s first virtual personal styling appointment was launched via Instagram within three weeks of the first national lockdown. The group now plans to expand these sessions via Zoom from March this year.

While stores have reopened with restrictions and safety precautions, shoppers still do not feel confident enough to venture out and shop. David Dalziel, Creative Director, Dalziel & Pow expects shoppers to again start flocking to stores once restrictions loosen. They would want to reconnect with things they missed during the pandemic besides feeling safe.

Dalziel advises retailers to adapt their in-store experience and range presentations to suit new consumer attitude. He recommends retailers to emphasize on storytelling from the shop window to the fitting room. He also suggests investing in pay-points at the fitting room to create a more seamless journey for consumers.

A toll on retailers’ mental health

The pandemic has also taken a toll on mental health of fashion retail employees. Charity organization for the UK retail industry, Retail Trust has reported an 81 per cent rise in requests for mental health support from people working in fashion retail since the start of the pandemic. The charity noted over a half of them are suffering from anxiety, depression and stress and, has launched nearly 1,000 counseling sessions.

Retailers are also supporting their staff by introducing new safety measures in stores. For instance, high street retailers Matalan and JD Sports installed body cameras to deter and record aggressive customers in store. Marks & Spencer has partnered Unmind – an app designed to encourage staff to regularly take time for their mental health. The retailer also organized a staff Well-being Fair in January 2021. The buying teams of retailer Next have developed new ranges by using digital technologies that enable them to handle diverse tasks from amending garment fit to checking color continuity. The pandemic has changed fashion retail forever. It is unlikely the industry will ever go back to its original mode of functioning.

The government’s rejection of a proposal to import cotton from India has disappointed Pakistan’s textile industry. Jawed Bilwani, Chairman, Pakistan Apparel Forum has termed the move disappointing and said cotton and cotton yarn import, as recommended by Commerce Adviser Abdul Razak Dawood, is the need of the hour.

Czmpared to 2014-15, Pakistan faces a 50 per cent drop in cotton production this year. Sea freights have also increased 700 per cent due to the pandemic, delaying goods shipment to 105 days instead of 25, says Bilwani. He recommended a ban on cotton and yarn exports for six months in case the government does not want to allow imports from India.

In May 2020, Pakistan lifted the ban on import of medicines and raw material of essential drugs from India amid COVID-19. India-Pakistan trade ties nose-dived after a terror attack on the Pathankot Air Force base in 2016 by terror groups based in Pakistan. Ties strained further after India's war planes pounded terrorist training camp inside Pakistan in response to the Pulwama terror attack. India's move to revoke the special status of Jammu and Kashmir in 2019 strained India-Pakistan ties further leading to the expulsion of Indian High Commissioner in Islamabad. Pakistan also snapped all air and land links with India and suspended trade and railway services.

The American Image Award committee of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) awarded Hanesbrands as the ‘Company of the Year’. Based in North Carolina, HanesBrands is a socially responsible leading marketer of everyday basic innerwear and activewear apparel in the Americas, Europe, Australia and the Asia-Pacific.

Walmart bagged the Retail Innovator of the Year Award while Gabriela Hearst was named Designer of the Year. Black in Fashion Council (BIFC) was awarded the ‘fashion maverick’ and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) received the Eco-Steward of the Year award.

The Eco-Steward of the Year award was launched this year to honor the industry's acceleration of journey to sustainability and its initiatives to protect the future of the planet and its people. The award function will be held virtually on June 21

Swedish fashion retailer H&M has been accused by Vietnamese social media users of bowing to China’s pressure and changing an online map to show disputed territories in South China Sea as part of China. However, Chinese regulators refuted these allegations saying, the online map had been altered with H&M assent following government criticism.

As per reports, Shanghai branch of the Cyberspace Administration of China was alerted by members of the public to a problematic map of China on H&M's website. The Shanghai municipal bureau of planning and natural resources ordered the error to be remedied immediately and H&M complied, according to the cyberspace watchdog.

China claims sovereignty over almost the entire South China Sea and has overlapping territorial claims with Brunei, Malaysia, the Philippines, Vietnam and Taiwan. Beijing's rising assertiveness against counter claimants in the East and South Sea has resulted in unprecedented agreement across the Indo-Pacific.

Foreign companies in China including H&M and Nike are facing tremendous pressure following their statement on forced labour in Xinjiang. They are also been subjected to pressure amid China's rising tension with the west.

Uproar among Chinese nationals and authorities following its statement on forced labor in Xinjiang has forced Swedish fashion retailer H&M to close 20 stores in China. As per reports, several companies including H&M and Nike are being targeted by China over their statement on forced labor in Xinjiang. They are being subjected to pressure amid China's rising tension with the west.

The ruling Communist Party lashed out at H&M, Nike and other shoe and clothing brands last week after the United States, the European Union, Britain and Canada imposed travel and financial sanctions on officials accused of abuses in Xinjiang in China's northwest. H&M was forced to shut down 20 of its 500 outlets in the country,

The world’s second largest retailer was also pulled from major e-commerce stores in China and blocked by several major navigation, review and rating apps. Chinese celebrities also terminated their contracts with these brands, including Nike, Adidas, Puma, Converse, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, and Uniqlo.

Universal Standard, the size-inclusive brand has collaborated with the UK fashion house Erdem to create an eight-piece collection anchored in white and indigo denim that merges notions of romance and utility.

As per Sourcing Journal, the capsule collection consists of two different styles of jean—a wide legged boyfriend jean and a high-waisted skinny jean with a double button sailor front—a denim boiler suit, a deconstructed denim skirt, a shirt dress and two floral print cotton blouses.

The collection pushes the design house out of its comfort zone of ethereal fabrics and into the world of size-inclusive denim. Erdem’s creative touches are evident in the romantic undertones found throughout the capsule collection such as ruffles and smocking. The collection also marks Erdem’s entry into a more accessible price point. While floral boyfriend jeans in the brand’s Spring 2020 collection retail for $540, the Erdem x Universal Standard collection retails for $120-$198.

Trade Representative Katherine Tai said, the United States is not yet ready to lift tariffs on Chinese imports, but could be open to talks with Beijing.

In January 2020, ex-president Donald Trump signed an accord between Beijing and Washington after a bruising trade battle that saw tariffs imposed by both sides. But the former trade lawyer warned that suddenly axing the levies could harm the US economy unless a policy reversal is communicated in a way that allows the government to make adjustments.

Tai said, while she recognized the tariffs were taking a toll on some US businesses, they had been imposed to remedy an unbalanced and unfair trade situation. She has already discussed Beijing's trade practices in calls with Japanese ministers, and in her confirmation hearings said she supported a holistic review on China.