New guidelines are laying out better denim manufacturing practices that focus on garment durability, recyclability, and traceability. The popular denim pants of today are a far cry from the tough work wear that they were originally designed to be, and are often so stretchy, distressed, and heavily dyed that they last a fraction of the time that their less-trendy predecessors did.

In an effort to fix this problem, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has released a set of guidelines. The guidelines strive to tackle waste, pollution, and other harmful practices in the denim industry. They set out minimum requirements on garment durability, material health, recyclability and traceability. The guidelines are based on the principles of the circular economy and will work to ensure jeans last longer, can easily be recycled, and are made in a way that is better for the environment and the health of garment workers. A pair of jeans should be so designed it can withstand at least 30 washes. The garment should include clear product care information on labels; contain at least 98 per cent cellulose fibers made from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods; should not contain metal rivets or keep these to a minimum; and should be easy to disassemble for recycling.

Indonesia has struggled to penetrate the global modest fashion market. A heavy focus on its large domestic market and lack of attention to exports had caused the country to perform poorly. E-commerce companies fail to pay designers. Unethical event organizers ask clients to pay upfront for a show, than fail to deliver. Indonesian designers are often unable to follow through when it comes to fulfilling orders. Products are sometimes rejected because they fall short on quality, with sloppy workmanship such as poorly finished seams and stitches among the most common complaints. Indonesian designers do branding and don't focus too much on selling. Indonesian designers are unable to scale up output to meet growing overseas demand.

Established textile manufacturers are more interested in mass production than producing smaller runs of designer clothes. Highly skilled seamstresses are scarce. Indonesian designers typically focus on ethnic wear and bold colors, which although appreciated by the domestic market often don’t resonate with customers in more conservative Middle Eastern countries, or with those in Muslim-minority western nations who don't want to stand out from the crowd more than they do already.

Modest fashion can be worn for religious or cultural reasons, or by women who just prefer to dress conservatively.

The share of goods traded across the border in both India and China has fallen by 5.6 percentage points. This decline does not reflect trade disputes or hint at an impending slowdown. Instead, it reflects healthy economic development in China, India and the rest of emerging Asia. More goods are consumed domestically than exported. As consumption rises, more of what gets made in these countries is now sold locally instead of being exported to the west. Over the decade from 2007 to 2017, China almost tripled its production of labor intensive goods. At the same time, the share of gross output China exports has decreased from 15.5 per cent to 8.3 per cent. As wages rose in China, and the country moved into higher-value activities, its share of global exports of labor-intensive goods declined by three percentage points. India has similarly been exporting a smaller share of its output over time.

In 1997, Asia accounted for only 36 per cent of the 5,000 largest global firms but by 2017, that share was up to 43 per cent. The countries represented in this group also drastically changed. China accounts for the biggest increase by far. The number of Indian firms in the top 5,000 global firms list has shot up to 142 from 25 during 1995-97.

Cotton yarn exports from India fell 22 per cent in the first quarter. Global cotton yarn demand is under stress as GDP growth in China has fallen and there are recessionary trends in major cotton markets including Bangladesh. The slide in exports of cotton yarn is worsened by low margins in the Indian cotton market due to higher domestic prices. Indian cotton yarn manufacturers are losing due to China’s grant of duty-free access to Pakistan and Vietnam.

India is the world’s largest exporter of cotton yarn and has major markets in China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Vietnam and South Korea. Yarn exports to China account for a third of total yarn exports from India. Exports to Vietnam increased by 72 per cent in the last year. This year, yarn exports to China, Bangladesh, Pakistan and the European markets are down. Millers who are turning to the domestic market are feeling the heat due to a spike in duty-free garment imports from Bangladesh. Imports of garments from Bangladesh have jumped 82 per cent, much of it made from duty-free fabrics coming from China.

Cotton spinning mills in India are resorting to partial shutdown as a squeeze in demand from China and Bangladesh has resulted in accumulated yarn stocks.

Though Myanmar’s garment exports make up around 10 per cent of the country’s export revenues, this strong growth is at risk due to several factors. The country is yet to develop an efficient legal and institutional framework to establish sound labor market governance. There are limited opportunities for women already working in the sector to learn new skills or to seek a promotion. Factories generally lack formal policies and processes to effectively identify and address workplace harassment and abuse. There are concerns about abuse from managers, limited toilet breaks and unbearably hot working conditions. Though trade unions have the right to organise strikes in Myanmar, heavy handed tactics to deal with protests have painted the garment industry in a negative light. The European Union’s potential withdrawal of its Everything But Arms trade preference scheme has cast an even bigger shadow over the industry, especially with 60 per cent of Myanmar’s garment exports heading to the EU. Concerns about labor rights have led the EU to review Myanmar’s access to the European market.

Still, Myanmar’s garment industry has cemented itself as an important engine of sustainable development. With minimum wages lower than those of China, Cambodia and Vietnam, Myanmar has attracted orders from international retailers.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, its new Lurapret® N5396 & N5392 liq, a water-based ultra-low VOC polyurethane (PU) polymer coating technology at ITMA 2019.

The innovation was developed in compliance with “ The Archroma W ay: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

Lurapret® N5396 & N5392 liq have been developed to provide textile manufacturers with an additional water-based option that delivers high performance to the coated fabrics of demanding applications, such as indoor and outdoor textiles, nonwovens and papers.

Initially developed for the chemical bonding and coating for backpack and other industrial products, Lurapret® N5396 & N5392 liq also improve the mechanical properties of the treated material such as their tensile strength and scratch resistance.

The new products will be the core of Archroma's Safe Seats system. The system, which combines Lurapret® N5392 & N5396 liq with Archroma’s halogen -free* Pekoflam® STC p flame retardant, allows to create a halogen -free* flame retardant coating system for synthetic leather upholstery.

Using Lurapret® N5396 & N5392 liq together with Archroma’s Nuva ® N2155 & N4547 soil protection and release finishes, enables customers to achieve highest standards in water - repellence and waterproofness.

Lurapret® N5396 & N5392 liq can be applied by impregnation, coating (paste or foam), and spray, and are compliant with the ZDHC and bluesign ® requirements.

"Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, launched its new Foron® SP-WF, a range of high wet-fast disperse dyes for sportswear and active wear applications, at the ITMA exhibition."

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, launched its new Foron® SP-WF, a range of high wet-fast disperse dyes for sportswear and active wear applications, at the ITMA exhibition.

The Foron® SP-WF dyes are especially suited for the coloration of polyester fibers and microfibers, and polyester/elastane blends, in exhaustion application.

The Foron® SP-WF dyes were developed in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable, economically and ecologically.

The new product is at the core of Archroma's Fast Sport, a coloration system for polyester knitted sportswear, providing the best fastness in the shortest possible time with a reduced environmental footprint.

The Foron® SP-WF range which includes primary and ternary color grades has been developed to fulfil the high color wet fastness and perf ormance requirements of sportswear manufacturers and brands.

Moreover, the core ternary color grades enable deep shades at lower dyeing temperatures on sensitive polyester/elastane fabrics without causing excessive fiber damage, saving energy resources and meeting the high fastness demand of leading brand companies.

When using Foron® SP-WF dyes as part of the Fast Sport system, manufacturers can in many cases have the potential to significantly reduce their consumption of time, energy, chemical, and water, as well as their CO2 emissions.

"The 15th edition of Interfiliere Shanghai will be launched from September 26-27, 2019 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center in Shanghai. This autumn edition will bring together various professionals from the lingerie, swimwear and sportswear supply chain who will explore a wide range of offerings by Asian and overseas suppliers, from must-have essentials of the season to new innovations and sustainable solutions as well as the possibility of flexible MOQ."

The 15th edition of Interfiliere Shanghai will be launched from September 26-27, 2019 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center in Shanghai. This autumn edition will bring together various professionals from the lingerie, swimwear and sportswear supply chain who will explore a wide range of offerings by Asian and overseas suppliers, from must-have essentials of the season to new innovations and sustainable solutions as well as the possibility of flexible MOQ.

Trend Forum & Prototype Fashion Show

Concepts Paris in collaboration with its suppliers will unveil the Spring/Summer 2021 collection that will showcase latest products from across the globe through prototype fashion shows.

The Green Village

In response to the environmental and ethical issues in the industry, Eurovet presents the Green Village that will publicise the importance of being “Green”, and showcase both existing sustainable solutions and those proposed by the exhibitors.

Asia Young Label Awards

Following its successful debut in Shanghai in 2018, the Young Label Awards encourages upcoming young designers from Asia Pacific, to explore their dreams fearlessly. Brands from the swim, lingerie and activewear categories compete to win a free booth at Unique by Mode City.

The Essence

Over the past years, China has evolved significantly from being the world’s factory to becoming the fastest developing consumer market in the world. The country is witnessing a new class of consumers, who are being encouraged by their growing incomes, new media and technologies. Chinese brands are embracing their own culture besides opening up to a wider and international stage. The Essence curated by Eurovet offers an opportunity to these Chinese brands to speak their own languages and unique stories.

"With many high-end brands retailing in the city, Hong Kong, for nearly two decades, was known as the Shopping Mecca of the world. The city offered the best, the latest and the greatest of European and American fashion. Be it clothing, accessories or electronics, it stocked everything from the world’s most reputed brands like Prada, Chanel Kate, Spade, Gap, H&M, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Zara. "

With many high-end brands retailing in the city, Hong Kong, for nearly two decades, was known as the Shopping Mecca of the world. The city offered the best, the latest and the greatest of European and American fashion. Be it clothing, accessories or electronics, it stocked everything from the world’s most reputed brands like Prada, Chanel Kate, Spade, Gap, H&M, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Zara. Now, however, trends are changing. European and North American brands are scaling back their expansion plans and exercising more fiscal trends. Taking advantage of this, many Asian brands are filling the market with their products.

The early movers

Two of the earliest entrants into the market include Muji and Uniqlo, the Japanese home ware and casual fashion brand whose presence spans right from the modern Shibuya towers to the 18th century heritage buildings in Barcelona. Of these, Muji is opening a new store in Pacific Place while discount retailer Don Quijot plans to open an outlet in Hong Kong. This outlet will be a part of the brand’s regional expansion plan that also includes Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan, Korea and the US. Korean cosmetics brands such as Innisfree, Etude House and 3CE are also opening new shops in several international locations along with Gentle Monster and Line Friends

Joining the brigade

Chinese casual apparel brand Meters/bonwe, tech brand DJI and restaurant chains Haidilao recently opened outlets in Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong. Taiwanese restaurant Din Tai Fung forayed into Japan, the UK, the US, Thailand, Australia and other markets. Singaporean shoe brand Charles & Keith also opened an outlet in Jakarta, Shanghai and Taipei. The brand already operates more than 300 stores in Indonesia, the Philippines, the UAE, India, South Africa. Michelin-rated diner Putien has launched in Jakarta, Shanghai and Taipei.

Shifting demands and ease of operation facilitates movement

The reasons for this sudden influx of Asian brands into the worldwide markets are many. Prominent amongst them is shifting demands of consumers who constantly seek novelty in their products. Also, it is easier for these brands to open their stores in Asian countries where they already have either a physical or an online presence. As Asian products are known for their cheaper rates than their western equivalents which fits the shifting consumer demands perfectly.

Factors such as proximity and logistics are also boosting demand for Asian products with three of the world’s busiest ports — Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai — on the doorstep making regional expansion a logical choice for these brands. Though there are likely to be many challenges in the way of this expansion, Asia definitely seems to be next destination for many European brands as of now.

Dutch fashion brand G-Star has joined forces with the Swiss chemical company Archroma for the creation of a sustainable new fall collection dubbed ‘Dyed By Nature'. The series spans separates such as jackets, sweatshirts, jeans and T-shirts for men and women, all dyed with natural ingredients such as upcycled saw palmetto leaf leftovers and beetroot waste that the brand promises are "traceable from earth to product." The result is a range of pieces in soft, earthy hues such as tea rose, navy blue and olive green. The collection has been fabricated using materials such as organic and recycled cotton, and Tencel.

The collection is the fruit of an ongoing collaboration between G-Star Raw and EarthColors by Archroma, kickstarted in 2017. It is the latest in several attempts by the brand to focus on environmentally friendly fashion, following on from a 'G-Star RAW for the Oceans' collection made back in 2014 using recycled plastic, and its ongoing ‘Renewed' denim concept -- first launched in 2012 -- that sees jeans given more than one chance at life