The global apparel re-commerce market is booming with the rise of online platforms for pre-owned fashion. This convenient marketplace allows consumers to buy and sell garments and accessories, including footwear. The surge in B2C e-commerce, fueled by internet accessibility, has contributed to the growth of online apparel. 

E-commerce sales are projected to reach $2,671 billion at a CAGR of 17.5%. The apparel re-commerce segment is witnessing increased demand as consumers are attracted to luxury items and the opportunity to resell them. 

Apparel re-commerce platforms offer services like inventory photography and pricing assistance, along with peer-to-peer marketplaces for price comparison and direct connections. Major companies are investing heavily to drive sales growth. Seasonal inventory, luxury investments, brand momentum, and millennial involvement are driving market expansion. 

Key players in the market include Vestiaire Collective, The RealReal, Tradesy, Poshmark, ThredUP, Vinted, SnobSwap, and Threadflip. These companies have collectively invested over half a billion dollars since 2009. Social media, especially among millennials, presents a significant opportunity for apparel re-commerce. 

By leveraging platforms like Depop, companies can reach a large customer base through interactive features and user engagement. Depop boasts over 5 million users and monthly sales of 500,000 items, showcasing the potential of social media-driven re-commerce. 

In conclusion, the global apparel re-commerce market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 24.6% until 2032. Players can capitalize on the demand for pre-owned fashion, online convenience, and social media influence to drive sales and expand their customer base.

Source Fashion, Europe's latest responsible sourcing show and gateway to the UK fashion industry, will feature the first-ever Ethiopian and Filipino pavilions among its lineup of over 300 exhibitors from 30 countries. 

Taking place from July 16-18 at London Olympia, this event promises to be a vibrant showcase of global fashion diversity and sustainability. Suzanne Ellingham, Sourcing Director of Source Fashion, expressed enthusiasm about welcoming manufacturers, designers, and producers from new regions like Ethiopia, Mongolia, and the Philippines. 

With thousands of buyers and procurement teams already registered, Source Fashion stands as the sole UK platform offering a wide variety, assurance, and innovative opportunities. As a hub connecting manufacturers and suppliers to fashion buyers seeking security and new creative ranges, Source Fashion plays a crucial role in bridging the gap between global markets. 

From raw materials to contract manufacturers, the event encompasses all aspects of the fashion supply chain. The Ethiopian and Filipino pavilions introduce their rich heritage, exceptional talent, and forward-thinking approaches to sustainability. Filipino companies like Artisanat Handmade, Lin-Ay by Binky Pitogo, and Orient Meadow Export Corporation showcase their commitment to craftsmanship and environmental consciousness. Meanwhile, Ethiopian exhibitors like Demka Group, Isabella Socks Manufacturing, Hela Apparel Holdings, Atraco, JP Textile, and Sunshine Ethiopia Wool Textile PLC represent the country's expertise in sustainable garment production. 

The Madagascan pavilion at Source Fashion features ethical manufacturing. Returning after a successful debut, the Jordan pavilion showcases prominent brands emphasizing the influence of modest clothing on the fashion scene. 

Hosted at the iconic Kensington Olympia in central London, Source Fashion has become a must-attend event for the fashion community, providing a platform to explore sustainability, innovation, and international collaborations.

Fashion, if nothing else, takes social trends very seriously, even if it just for commercial success. Today, the well-entrenched gender-based fashion collections have blurred their lines as is evident from the red carpet displays and runways of prestigious fashion weeks in the last few years. The idea is to be non-binary and gender fluid and yet retain the semblance of masculine wear so the male consumer is not completely thrown off. To put the change into context is to hear the Grande Dame of fashion, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, Anna Wintour. She doesn’t believe men and women should have separate rules when it comes to clothing. The boundary should cross over and be celebrated. 

Goodbye collars and hello over shirts

Across the Spring/Summer 2024 runways, brands agreed that it’s time to ditch collars on outerwear, if only for one season. From Williams' Louis Vuitton to Zegna, collarless jackets reign in menswear. It’s lighter on the eye and enables a freer flow of the jacket. Another big trend is about the summer blazer being replaced by over shirt. The strong trend for sportswear and comfort has generated new qualities and models. The over shirt, also known as shacked (shirt jacket) is an icon of this style made of wide-repeat checks and plaids in a variety of colours ranging from classic to bright.

Italex forecasts bring ivory back

Trend forecasting style studio Italex is the go-to for fashion houses for colour and fabric trends. According to Italex, ivory is set to return as a key colour for menswear. Organic cotton, slubbed linen and kapok play the ivory theme in the delicate textures of shirt-weight jacquard braids for knitted shirts, geometric motif wool/linen jacquards in 3D effects, or cotton/kapok fil coupé broken ribs. Fil coupé linen/cotton with long fringes creates torn fabric effects which renew the ivory shirt. In another prediction, Italex predicts the return of grunge in menswear but in better aesthetics. Solid colours for the urban style of wool or cotton crinkled checks, narrow repeat lightweight jacquards in mis-dyed indigo colours, tie-dye effect classic stripes on piquet knits. It’s a deliberately dirty and worn-out look for the ever-present grunge style.

Another colour is taking centrestage with reputable fashion houses for Spring/ Summer ’24 is Kermit green. Inspired by all American icon ‘Kermit the Frog’, this green runs through the houses of Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Walter Van Beirendonck and more. 

Carry-all cargo pockets

Cargo pockets are a recurring trend across both women’s wear and menswear, and the Spring/Summer ’24 collections confirm that's not changing anytime soon. The spacious pockets across baggy pants, jackets, shirts and even vests, courtesy of Prada, Hed Mayner, 1017 Alyx 9SM and many more are going to be all over next spring and summer as well. 

Men’s soft trousers

Call it the lasting effects of quarantine dressing but soft pants that are most often seen featuring stretchy waistbands and made with plush fabrics are just as prevalent for Spring/Summer ’24 runways as the expected tailored trousers. They're paired with polished jackets (Kiton, MSGM, Brunello Cucinelli) and equally cozy tops (JW Anderson, Fendi, Marcelo Burlon) alike, to be comfy at any and all occasions.

Shredded and undone

That undone look is reimagined but more over the top this time as if clothes have been put through a shredder for Spring Summer 2024 in menswear. Dsquared2, Rains, Andersson Bell and others endorse a little bit of destruction in our wardrobes, particularly in the jeans and tails of over-sized over shirts. 

The European Commission is determined to enforce regulations for sustainable fashion by 2028, addressing its environmental impact. 

Textile consumption ranks fourth in environmental and climate effects after food, housing, and transport. Major fast fashion companies like Inditex and H&M are seeking ways to reduce water and energy usage and increase recycled textiles. The Commission plans to introduce 16 legislations holding fashion companies accountable for environmental consequences. 

These measures, challenging for fast fashion brands, will require waste collection or financial contributions. The EU aims for durable garments prioritizing reuse and easy recycling by 2030. Annually, the EU discards 5.8 million tonnes of textiles, equal to 11 kg per person, with rapid landfill and incineration rates worldwide. 

The Commission also addresses deceptive eco-labels through regulations effective next year. Additionally, EU governments agreed to ban unsold textile destruction, promoting reuse and recycling. Implementation of the ban is expected to take around six months.

Shoppers facing frustration over rising inflation can find solace in the realm of shoes and fashion, as prices for these items are currently lower than they were 21 years ago, according to Statistics Canada data. In May, clothing and footwear prices stood at 97.9, 2.1% below the levels recorded in May 2002. 

Meanwhile, the overall price index for all items reached 157, with the highest increases observed in gasoline and food. This unexpected trend has surprised experts, with some attributing it to the changing retail landscape, including the entry of Walmart into Canada and the bankruptcy of mid-market retailers like Mexx and Le Chateau. 

The stagnation in fashion pricing, coupled with the rise of fast fashion brands like H&M and Uniqlo, has resulted in a surplus of clothing, driving down prices. 

Additionally, the COVID-19 pandemic further reduced clothing demand, leading to a downward shift in prices overall. While luxury brands maintain their higher price points, even they have seen reductions compared to years past.

As Saudi Arabia's emerging fashion brands gain recognition on the international stage, the Kingdom is set to host its very own fashion week. The Saudi Fashion Commission has announced the inaugural Saudi Fashion Week, scheduled to take place from October 20 to 23. 

This historic event, which will be held in Riyadh, represents a significant milestone in promoting the creative work of Saudi designers to a global audience. The fashion week will feature a diverse range of collections from brands participating in the Fashion Commission's renowned Saudi 100 brands program.

The announcement took place during Paris Fashion Week, where Saudi design showcases and pop-ups captivated attendees with experiential fashion shows, cutting-edge showrooms, and a series of industry events. This development aligns seamlessly with the goals of Saudi Vision 2030, marking another step toward promoting arts, culture, and sports in the country. 

The growth potential of Saudi Arabia's fashion industry is evident, with the State of Fashion in the Kingdom 2023 report projecting it to have the highest growth rate among large, high-income markets. By 2025, retail fashion sales in Saudi Arabia are expected to surge by 48 percent, reaching $32 billion and reflecting an impressive annual growth rate of 13 percent. 

The Saudi 100 Brands program, established in 2021 to empower designers and support their business development, has played a crucial role in nurturing the industry. The inaugural Saudi Fashion Week is anticipated to be a watershed moment for creative talents across the Kingdom, paving the way for global recognition and acclaim.

With a USP of less is more in premium fashion be it minimalist pieces with a timeless appeal or barely-there subtly engraved logos, the concept of making a loud and flashy fashion statement is slowly ebbing out among the well-heeled consumers. The new concept of quiet luxury is all about being anti-bling and wearing designer outfits that show their uniqueness through refined craftsmanship and minimalism as the whole idea is that it is not necessary to be flashy to exude style. Premium avant-garde designer brands that experiment with bold logos, ostentatious patterns, and over-the-top dressing styles are a complete no-no to thee niche rich and discerning consumers who swear by quiet luxury

No-bling minimalistic fashion garments

Although the concept of quiet understated luxury is too conformist and non-appealing to most who can afford to buy premium garments, this new fashion trend that wears its steep price tag discreetly has caught on with many rich and famous around the world. Some genuine shoppers just like to wear simple luxury clothes without the logos and bling that tom-tom the brand to show the world that they are rich enough to afford it.

 Some big fashion houses in the quiet luxury segment include: The Row, Loro Piana,  Brunello Cucinelli, MaxMara, and Loewe along with quiet investment brands such as Hermès, Khaite, Celine, and Prada. Most of these brands concentrate on cutting and finishing statement minimalistic pieces while staying away from synthetic material and logo or monogram prints. Intricate Japanese tailoring, Weston shoes, and Johnstons of Elgin are once again the bestsellers of the low-key luxury segment in European markets and Paris catwalks.

Pitti Uomo highlights this trend

Many premium brands that are resting their laurels on quiet luxury apparel are now showcasing their unique portfolios at fashion ramps and trade shows around the globe. At the leading menswear tradeshow  Pitti Uomo held in Florence in early June, many premium brands had portfolios of understated yet unique shirts and suits. Piero Braga, CEO of Slowear owner of a group of Italian luxury fashion labels feels there is a small percentage of genuine under-stated consumers who are willing and able to spend on expensive garments but are anti-bling and anti-logos.

In fact, many premium brands are now showcasing their top-end collections keeping a lower focus on brand logos and bling for both global and Indian markets as this new mega trend of wearing apparels with subtle details is quietly but surely catching on.

However, not everyone is buying the theory that opulence, bling, and showy logos were on their way out forever as most believe that quiet luxury is just a fad preferred by only a few. Simon Golby, the menswear director for CD Network, a sales and distribution agency feels otherwise. Talking to the media at Pitti Uomo Golby said, “Everyone wants to say that quiet luxury is a trend, but there is no such thing as quiet luxury. This winter when everybody was saying ‘quiet luxury, quiet luxury’, Moon Boot was on fire, we couldn’t keep it in stock,” he explained about the success of one of the company’s brands, Moon Boot, whose bouffant boots have the brand’s name emblazed across the top.

Introduced to the world in 1995, seamless garment machinery was first manufactured in Italy and this category was initially limited to innerwear. Its versatility was soon used not only for outerwear because it combined comfort with body-fitted silhouettes and the advantage of not having seams that can pucker. Soon, it became the go-to technology particularly for athleisure and sportswear and then extended its use in home, automobile, medical and other technical fit outs. In this milieu, Bangladesh, which has been looking for diversifying its export-focused manufacturing from basic cotton garments, has embraced seamless garment manufacturing with a large number of players. 

Reputable Bangladeshi exporters 

Seamless garments are now a serious contender to becoming a star genre of its own and leveraging this opportunity many large players have established their production base in Bangladesh. To name a few: Fakhruddin Textile Mills, Ecta Dhaka, Ever Fashion, Marinetrans India, The Urmi Group, New Line Clothings, Lm Trading, JM Fabrics, Islam Garments, Shanghai All Link Logistics. Seamless garment manufacturing was initialized by the management of Fakhruddin Textile Mills in 2015 in Bangladesh and its success in exports inspired many more traditional knitwear manufacturers to join in as well. Currently, it has an impressive fleet of 78 machines and has plans to increase the number to 150 within the next two years. 

For a nation looking to maximise its share of global apparel export, growing demand for seamless garments was a step in the right direction of diversification. Additionally, Bangladeshi exporters who are reputed for their low-cost supplies saw this technology as cost efficient as it reduced labour hours and rapid production turnaround time – seamless garment technology eliminates fabric spreading, cutting and sewing processes, this was a win-win manufacturing that made Bangladeshi exporters get good deals from the likes of JCPenney, Old Navy, La Sanza, Mother’s Work, Benetton, Reebok, Ahlens, Next, Victoria’s Secret and  Wisport among other international brands. 

As per Foursource, today Bangladesh has nearly 200 sizeable seamless garment manufacturing companies that are geared towards exports. Khan Mohammad Al Farabi, a specialist in seamless (Santoni) and CWS (construction without sewing) and employed at Islam Garments in Dhaka feels Bangladesh has overcome the initial challenges associated with setting up its seamless garment manufacturing base and is now growing at a healthy rate.

Challenges in going seamless

The biggest challenge of setting up a seamless garment manufacturing is the expensive machinery. Bangladeshi currency hasn’t fared too well which makes importing such expensive machinery a huge challenge. Secondly, the labour employed at such units have to be paid higher wages than the ones working for legacy units as a higher skill set is required to operate the production line. This in turn makes the garments dearer, which exporters may not be able to leverage during negotiations with buyers. 

The other overhead cost is that of zero defects, a single defect renders the entire garment useless as there is no room to tuck or fold over. Manufacturers also have to contend with the fact that the manufacturing process cannot be involved if slightly complicated patterns are placed. Faiaz Rahman, Director of Urmi Group say these challenges have been well-handled and as a point of reference his company is one of Puma’s largest global suppliers and also supplies to premium French brand Auchan and high street brands Marks & Spencer and H&M. Today, Urmi produces 700, 000 pieces a month. 

Seamlessly from Europe to Asia

Whilst Europe was the pioneer and held sway for the initial decade and a half or so, the seamless garment production hub has shifted to Asia for obvious cost-efficiency reason. Out of the 40,000 machines operating worldwide, China itself, the largest manufacturer of seamless garments, has 25,000 machines operating in production lines. The remaining 15,000 are spread over Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Bangladesh, India, Mexico and some other South American countries. 

With 2025 its date of expiry drawing close, the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) that gives duty-free benefits to goods of designated sub-Saharan African (SSA) countries, is now set for a change for better or worse. The AGOA legislation was approved by the US Congress in May 2000 and signed by President Clinton to promote better economic growth through good governance and free global markets. 

As it expires, one change that may happen is that the legislation may be replaced with new trade agreements between US and African countries who follow the free trade policies of the African Continental Free Trade Area (AFCFTA) agreement along with trade policies of the Prosper Africa initiative, also sponsored by the US.

US-African summit highlight AGOA report issues

AGOA in its current form is an extension of the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) , which is the US trade preference system introduced in 1974 that allows more than a 100 countries mainly low-income nations, to export most of their goods duty-free into the US. At the US-African Leaders Summit 2022 held in Washington DC last December, to enhance cooperation on shared global priorities there was a hint at a probability of an AGOA extension before the up-coming 2025 deadline, although that has not taken place yet. 

At the summit, many leaders such as Katherine Tai as US Trade Representative spokesperson addressed the media about the urgent need to discuss “ways in which we can improve AGOA - including how we can increase the utilization rates, particularly among smaller and less-developed countries, as well as ensure that the program's benefits fully reach all segments of society.”

The US International Trade Commission (USITC) in April 2023 analyzed the trade and economic impact of AGOA and provides utilization rates, recent trends in US imports under this act. It also details the impact of the program on regional integration, workers and underserved communities, economic development and job growth among other important data. The AGOA report includes case studies on four industries that are present in the SSA viz. apparel, cotton, cocoa, and certain chemicals

SSA countries try to maintain regular apparel exports to the US

Around 20 countries are currently eligible for AGOA’s apparel provision and 90 per cent of US apparel imports from AGOA members in 2021, were from the five SSA countries. These are: Kenya 31.5 per cent, Madagascar 19.9 per cent, Lesotho 20.6 per cent, Ethiopia 18.3 per cent and Mauritius 5.1 per cent. 

The much needed AGOA benefits are updated regularly for SSA countries to maintain their apparel exports to the US. Whenever a country has lost its lost AGOA eligibility, there has been a significant decrease in apparel imports, for example, Rwanda and Madagascar saw it between 2000 and 2021.

SSA apparel manufacturers usually prefer supplying to the US as it is easier and more economically-viable than the European markets. This is because US brands place bigger orders for higher volume bulk basic garments, which doesn’t need high-tech skills local African workers. 

Currently, most SSA countries do cut-and-sew operations of apparels based on imported raw materials mainly from Asian countries. There are many challenges in building a fully flourishing local textile industry in SSA. Most SSA manufacturers do not have the expertise to make various types of yarns and fabrics that are most in demand by US buyers and easy access to textile inputs from sources outside SSA is not always feasible financially and logistically. Reliance on imported textiles reduces the incentives for investing in new textile production capabilities within SSA countries. 

Indeed, AGOA has been limited in building a more integrated regional textile and apparel supply chain in SSA countries since its inception. Perhaps the new changes will give it more strength to benefit Africa. 

China's textile and apparel exports grew year-on-year from January to May 2023, but the export value was affected by pricing and exchange rate factors. May's export value, measured in Chinese Renminbi (RMB), decreased by 10.8% compared to the previous year and 1.1% compared to the previous month. 

Textile exports fell by 11.9% year-on-year and 5.5% month-on-month, while apparel exports declined by 9.8% year-on-year but increased by 3.2% month-on-month. In US dollars (USD), China's textile and apparel export value in May dropped by 13.1% compared to the previous year and 1.3% compared to the previous month. 

Textile exports decreased by 14.2% year-on-year and 5.6% month-on-month, while apparel exports declined by 12.2% year-on-year but rose by 3% month-on-month. The analysis of customs data revealed that only Categories 54, 55, and 62 showed positive growth during the January-May period, while other categories experienced declines compared to the same period last year. 

The growth in textile and apparel exports can mainly be attributed to polyester filament yarn and polyester staple fiber .However, downstream products and fabric exports did not exhibit growth but instead declined. 

The increase in polyester fiber exports reflects industry transfer, exploration of overseas markets, and is partly influenced by India's Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). The long-term sustainability of this trend remains uncertain.