Vietnam's textile industry witnessed a diverse performance in June 2023, with notable fluctuations in key import and export categories. 

According to recent statistics, cotton imports surged by 26.2% year-on-year (YoY) to 117.9kt but declined by 19.1% month-on-month (MoM). 

Yarn imports, on the other hand, exhibited an upward trend, rising by 3.7% YoY and 5.9% MoM. In terms of exports, Vietnam experienced a YoY increase of 17.4% in yarn exports, amounting to 154,000 tons. 

However, these exports decreased by 3.9% compared to the previous month. Despite this, net yarn exports showed positive growth, soaring by 48.8% YoY. In contrast, imports of grey fabrics and woven fabrics showed a decline both YoY and MoM, falling by 16.6% and 9.3%, respectively. 

Textile and apparel exports also faced challenges, decreasing by 14.7% YoY, although they rebounded by 4.9% compared to the previous month. Overall, while some segments experienced growth, others encountered setbacks, shaping a mixed performance for Vietnam's textile industry in June. 

However, considering the data for the second quarter, the industry showed signs of improvement compared to the first quarter. Nevertheless, certain areas, such as yarn imports and textile and apparel exports, lagged behind previous-year levels, indicating the need for close monitoring and strategic adjustments.

Lyst's latest Index for Q2 saw a significant moment as Loewe, the LVMH-owned brand, emerged as the most in-demand label globally, dethroning established names like Gucci, Prada, and Balenciaga. The brand's Spring-Summer 2023 collection, creatively directed by Jonathan Anderson, experienced a 19% surge in searches during the quarter.

Lyst attributes this success to Loewe's commitment to craftsmanship and creativity, captivating diverse customer groups and driving substantial brand heat, leading to surging demand and online sales for its hero products. Interestingly, Jonathan Anderson's eponymous JW Anderson label also secured a spot in the top 20, retaining its position from the previous quarter.

The rest of the top 10 included Versace climbing to third place, while Prada slipped one spot. Other notable brands in the top 10 were MiuMiu, Botttega Veneta, Valentino, Saint Laurent, Moncler, Gucci, and Dior. Outside the top 10, the list featured an array of brands with varying price points, ranging from Louis Vuitton to Dolce & Gabbana, Diesel, Burberry, Jacquemus, SKIMS, Nike, Fendi, and JW Anderson.

Versace, which has been thriving in recent quarters, experienced significant growth, driven by strategic collaborations with celebrities like Anne Hathaway and DuaLipa, elevating the brand's star power and widening its audience reach. Lyst also highlighted the "Breakout Brands" of the quarter, which included Goyard, Posse, and LoroPiana. Goyard, celebrating its 170th anniversary, witnessed a 95% increase in searches.

Posse, an Australian brand focused on "quiet luxury," gained popularity, with its Alice linen mini dress becoming a trending product, donned by celebrities like Sofia Richie, Selena Gomez, and Lily Aldridge. LoroPiana, benefiting from the "Succession effect," experienced a 35% surge in searches, with their Babouche suede mules being a trending product worn by Gigi Hadid and Gwyneth Paltrow.

The hottest products of the quarter aligned with the top brands, with Loewe's Anagram tank top taking the lead, followed by Onitsuka Tiger's Mexico 66 sneakers and Versace's Maxi Medusa Biggie sunglasses.

Other notable products included Loewe's raffia tote bag and the enduring demand for luxury sunglasses. The Q2 Lyst Index reflects the ever-changing dynamics in the fashion industry, showcasing the rise of Loewe as a global powerhouse and Versace's continued success through strategic collaborations.

The denim market is projected to grow at a rate of 6.7% during the forecast period from 2022 to 2029, driven by the increasing consumer disposable income levels, according to a report by Data Bridge. Denim, initially designed for work clothes, has evolved into a vital and fashionable item in modern wardrobes. 

The market's growth is further boosted by urbanization, the rising popularity of denim shirts, and the use of synthetic materials blended with cotton to create stretchable denim jeans. Government initiatives to enhance product manufacturing are also contributing to market growth. 

Despite the positive outlook, the denim market faces challenges from the growing demand for cheap woollen wear. However, with the right strategies, businesses can make a mark in the market as new emergents. 

Première Vision Paris, the leading international show for fashion fabrics and textile sourcing marked its 50th anniversary earlier this month with its event at Paris-Nord Villepinte Parc des Expositions. The trade fair is the benchmark gathering for the fashion industry and the trends that drive the style of the future. Although France was experiencing heightened social unrest and violence had spilled on the streets, many countries including the UK had issued travel advisories. However, the event was a success as it witnessed a 7 per cent increase in visitors compared to July 2022. Meanwhile, rival exhibition, Texworld Evolution Paris which celebrated its 25th year held its July edition at a new venue - Porte de Versailles. The management revealed its future editions will also take place at the south of Paris exhibition center.

Diverse visitor profiles

Première Vision hosted 25,117 visitors, 70 per cent of whom were from outside France and 1,315 exhibitors, up 10 per cent versus the previous July exhibition. Speaking with a reputable fashion business title, Gilles Lasbordes, director of Première Vision said the July 2023 edition confirmed the progressive return of professionals from Asia, particularly China. 

The three-day exhibition Texworld Evolution Paris July 2023 edition welcomed 6,800 visitors, a large number being from China, no surprises there as China represents 32 per cent of the European Union’s clothing imports. While exhibitors put a quiet third day at Texworld down to the unrest across France, UK buying teams seemed unaware there had been UK government travel advice on monitoring the media for disruption in the country. 

Australian Paul Burden, Head of Design, Politix said he was shopping at Texworld for menswear fabrics for Country Road group, one of the largest specialty Australian retailers. As per him, drapery and tailoring fabrics at Chinese supplier Langyitex were among his favorites. Similarly, UK-buyer for Wealth Industrial, Julia Hesketh was pleased she was able to attend this edition of Texworld and had found everything she was looking for. She lauded the collection of fabrics that Korean suppliers had displayed. 

Interesting paradoxes revealed

During the time the two mega exhibitions were being hosted in Paris, Vincent Gregoire, Director Consumer Trends and Insights at Nelly Rodi, a consulting agency, made some interesting observations on the way consumers were realigning their attitudes. Clearly a paradox, as these exhibitions promote the growth of fashion sector through newer items to attract consumption. Gregoire identified a social trend, particularly in France which he termed as de-growth and cited the civil unrest as an example where rich spenders were no longer the aspiration but the subject of hate. The other paradox he pointed out was in a world that is constantly getting standardized with the likes of Zara, IKEA and AirBnB, there is chatter in France about local self-dependence that is authentic, locally produced and productive for its population like the “15 minute city concept.”

Sustainability takes centre stage

As sustainability is the number one point of focus for manufacturing sectors across the spectrum, the textile and apparel sector is not different. Première Vision introduced the Better Way programme at this edition by analyzing the sustainability initiatives of 290 of its participating exhibitors and put up easy-to-comprehend pictograms at their exhibits for visitors to navigate and find the sustainable products they were looking for. US-based Repreve, which claims to have transformed 35 billion plastic bottles into recycled polyester fabrics, noted the brand is rolling out its textile take-back schemes and keeping a close eye on European legislation for textiles. This dead-stock rollover was a first at Première Vision. 

As these trade shows demonstrate, it is heartening to see manufacturers and buyers are aligning themselves to deliver what today’s conscious consumers want in terms of affordability, longevity and sustainability. 

World Textile Information Network (WTiN) plans to co-locate Innovate: Zero Carbon with COP28 in Dubai, UAE. 

This innovation-driven conference addresses the urgent need for the textile & apparel sector to combat climate change, striving for 'net zero' by reducing carbon emissions. It aims to facilitate knowledge sharing on cutting-edge technology, materials, and operational strategies across the textile & apparel value chain.

 Topics covered include international decarbonization legislation, 'materials transition' for net zero, reinventing dyeing & finishing, digitalization's impact on decarbonization, circularity's role in a net zero supply chain, and empowering teams to drive zero carbon actions. 

Dubai's strategic importance as a post-Covid-19 hub for the global textile & apparel industry, co-located with COP28 and the World Climate Summit, facilitating actionable discussions on the path to net zero while ensuring business growth. 

Innovate: Zero Carbon's co-location with COP28 spotlights sustainable initiatives, fostering collaboration and progress in the fight against climate change.

Indian textile and apparel market size achieved US$ 172.3 Billion in 2022. Projections indicate a substantial growth trajectory, with the market expected to soar to US$ 387.3 Billion by 2028, reflecting a robust Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 14.59% during the period 2023-2028, according to a report by IMARC 

The Indian textile sector encompasses a wide array of materials, be it natural or synthetic fibers, while apparel comprises an extensive range of products such as shirts, pants, dresses, skirts, jackets, hats, shoes, and more, tailored for personal wear. 

Key Trends in the Indian Textile and Apparel Market: Rising consumer adoption of fast fashion, driven by its affordability and trendy clothing options, is a significant factor propelling market growth in India. 

Luxury brands are also contributing to the market expansion by incorporating premium fabric materials like silk and leather into their shoe, clothing, and accessory manufacturing. Moreover, the export of various fabric materials, such as silk, jute, and cotton, is providing a favorable market outlook. 

Furthermore, the online presence of numerous e-commerce brands offering affordable clothing options is bolstering the market's growth in India. 

The government is actively supporting the textile industry through initiatives like the Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (A-TUFS), Schemes for the development of the Power loom Sector (Power-Tex), Schemes for Technical Textiles, and Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP). 

These schemes are expected to fortify the market and promote further growth in the coming years.

The highly anticipated international fabric trade show, MUNICH FABRIC START, alongside the denim trade show, BLUEZONE, the innovation hub KEYHOUSE, and the one-stop sourcing solution, THE SOURCE, commenced earlier this week. 

Held under the themes "each other" at MOC and "ConneXXion" at BLUEZONE, the event promises a week of showcasing a diverse array of collections and innovations in the textile industry. The focus is on fostering personal connections, a sense of community, and embracing courage to contribute significantly to the entire fashion sector. 

Trade visitors from purchasing, design, and management sectors can look forward to vibrant halls, trend insights for Autumn.Winter 24/25, a comprehensive lecture program, and ample networking opportunities - a groundbreaking early July date for the event. 

He believes that the textile and fashion industry is at a crucial turning point, facing both economic pressures and opportunities for positive change. Emphasizing the significance of the event, Creative Director & Partner, Frank Junker, stresses the importance of relevance, trust, and continuity in the industry. 

He highlights the event's role in bringing together global stakeholders and nurturing a sense of community to shape a brighter future for fashion, while also emphasizing the fun and joy inherent in the industry. The event represents a pivotal moment for the textile industry, as it seeks to overcome challenges and drive positive transformation through collaboration and innovation.

In the first half (H1) of 2023, China experienced a downturn in its exports of textiles, clothing, and accessories, with a significant decline of 8.35% compared to the same period in 2022. According to data from the General Administration of Customs of China, the cumulative exports reached $142.677 billion. 

The decline in garment exports was particularly notable, falling by 5.9% during H1 2023. The downward trend persisted in June 2023, even though there was a brief respite in May. The total six-month export value for garments and clothing accessories amounted to $74.981 billion, a 5.9% reduction from the corresponding period in 2022. 

Additionally, China's exports of textiles, including yarn and fabric, experienced a sharp decline of 10.9% year-on-year, with the total dropping to $67.696 billion during the first half of 2023. Simultaneously, China's imports of textile yarn and fabric products also suffered a significant setback, decreasing by 19.6% in the first six months of 2023 compared to the same period in 2022. The total value of imports for these products reached $5.342 billion. In June 2023 alone, the country's imports of textile yarn and fabric products were valued at $1.007 billion. 

The total export value for 2022 reached $323.344 billion, with garments and accessories accounting for $175.396 billion and textile products, including yarn and fabric, contributing $145.079 billion to the overall figure.

The intricate economic and trade connections between China and the United States are likened to "threads and needles," according to Chinese Consul General in New York, Huang Ping. Despite facing challenges in recent years, Huang emphasized the enduring nature of the China-U.S. relationship, highlighting two crucial aspects: the mutually beneficial nature of their economic and trade cooperation, and their high level of complementarity and interdependence. 

Speaking at the 24th China Textile and Apparel Trade Show in New York City, Huang cited the textile industry as a prime example of the vital ties between the two nations. He pointed out that both countries heavily rely on textiles and clothing, which serve as a fabric of friendship uniting their peoples.

With China leading as the world's top producer, exporter, and consumer of textiles, and the United States being a significant consumer, Huang urged the textile industries of both nations to collaborate and seize opportunities for sustainable growth in their economic and trade relations. 

The three-day event featured nearly 800 Chinese fabric, home textile, and apparel manufacturers showcasing their latest products to American fashion clients. Zhang Tao, vice chairman of the Sub-Council of Textile Industry of China Council for the Promotion of International Trade, highlighted China's efforts to establish a green supply chain to meet the global demand for sustainable consumption. 

China's textile and apparel industry has maintained its position as a driving force in the global textile sector, boasting a world-leading manufacturing capacity and trade volume. From 2020 to 2022, annual textile and apparel exports from China exceeded 300 billion U.S. dollars, reaching a record high of 323.3 billion dollars in 2022. 

Huang emphasized the need for a stable and long-term cooperative relationship between China and the United States, recognizing the crucial role of their economic and trade ties in fostering mutual prosperity.

As India’s exports plummeted to $8.4 billion in April to June 2023 period, the much touted success of India’s textile and apparel exports seems to unraveling rapidly. Even though the Minister for Textiles highlighting uplifting information on large-scale textile parks, robust upstream and downstream developments and expansions across the country, the current situation on the ground is anything but upbeat. The media is full of features on mills closing, jobs losses, exports declining yet at the same time, there are news about India holding 4 per cent stake in worldwide trade of textiles and apparel. Indeed, it has been predicted that India's textile and apparel sector will expand at 10 per cent a year from 2019-20 to 2025-26, taking the industry's value to $190 billion. However, this needs a reality check.

Ukrainian conflict brought about woeful financial crisis

Textiles, a key Indian manufacturing sector is in the financial doldrums for many external reasons and the situation has forced representatives of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) to engage with the Indian Banks Association to not only support the industry but also extend one-year moratorium for repayment of the principal amount. 

The reasons are a plenty for the current dire situation. The Union government has levied 11 per cent import duty on cotton and CITI has been lobbying constantly for its removal but so far it has not met with any decision. CITI has also urged the Tamil Nadu government to restrict maximum charges for electricity demand to 20 per cent or the recorded demand, whichever is higher, for HT textile industrial units, as the situation within this state is perhaps one of the worst. CITI also stated the un-ending Ukrainian conflict is a big reason as it continues to affect important markets of the US and the EU and economic uncertainties worldwide slowing down global demand, rising inflation shooting up operating costs and of course the supply chain of man-made fibers is seriously disrupted. Textile exports in June 2023 were worth $1,624 million compared to $1,736 million in June 2022 while apparel exports were worth $1,248 million as opposed to $1,501 million last year.

Operating on 5 to 10 per cent losses

T Rajkumar, Chairman of CITI  highlighted just how bad things in a recent interview. He said the industry that was used to working on 3 to 6 per cent profit margin is bleeding with current losses being between 5 and 10 per cent. India’s textile and apparel industry saw an 11.3 per cent reduction in exports in June 2023 compared to the previous year while several mills continue to face acute cash loss, and many mills in Tamil Nadu in particular, suspended production citing lack of demand. 

Immediate relief need of hour

CITI is proactive in pushing all the buttons including removal of the 11 per cent duty on importing cotton and state governments capping electricity bills. The Indian Banks Association has been urged to provide stimulus for ease of borrowing for members of this currently cash-strapped industry, apart from the extra year extension on moratorium of repayment. CITI is also keen for the government to finalise the textile and apparel export part of the Free Trade Agreement with the UK, where current import levies are between 9 and 11 per cent. 

Although industry pundits claim better times ahead from the third or fourth quarter of 2023, CITI does not want to relax its demands based on projections alone and wants quick government intervention, which so far has happened.