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The Apparel Textile Sourcing Canada (ATSC) 2019 show will introduce a number of new country pavilions at this year’s event to meet the needs of its expected 5,000 attendees. It will also feature a first-of-its-kind Testex Certified Factory Pavilion. ATSC — which returns for the fourth year from August 19 to 21 in Toronto and August 23 in Montreal — is the industry’s go-to event, experiencing year-over-year growth and featuring hundreds of factories from around the globe through world-class conference sessions and unmatched networking opportunities.

The Ghana Export Promotion Authority will feature some of its region’s top, adaptable textile and ready-made garment producers in the new Ghana Pavilion. An overview of the resources and benefits of partnering with Ghana-based suppliers and factories will be presented on the opening day as part of a panel discussion featuring Ghanaian government and private officials.

The Peru Pavilion will offer an opportunity to experience unique Peruvian textiles and apparel first-hand. In addition to visiting the Peru Pavilion, ATSC attendees will have the opportunity to learn more about the benefits of sourcing from Peru in a Latin American panel discussion held during the trade show.

The delegation of Turkish exhibitors includes Abiteks and sister company Gaia-Sourcing.com, supplier to brands such as O’neill, Espirit, Laurel, Bogner Jeans, S.Oliver and many others. The Tureks Group will unveil their latest capabilities to the buyers in attendance.

The Swiss textile testing and certification organisation Testex will return to the show with a 10-booth pavilion as part of the first Testex Certified Factory Pavilion. The pavilion will feature a variety of textile mills and apparel factories for both knit and woven products.

Amid rising trade tensions, American importers of sports goods, toys, stationery, cables and electronics parts are turning to Indian sellers of these goods as Chinese products become expensive due to the US-China trade war. The US is planning to replace Chinese exports with Indian products in at least seven product lines including vulcanised rubber, footwear and kitchen accessories. India exported these items worth $1.5 billion in FY19 to the US, and the industry is keen to ramp up capacity to meet the potential demand.

India has a scope to increase its exports by 25 per cent since inquiries have increased since the US’ announcement to impose a 25 per cent duty on some Chinese products. In case of footwear, an American importer wants one million pairs annually.

The department of commerce has already identified 203 products where exports to the US could be increased by replacing Chinese exports as it already has market access for these items and is a competitor of China.

China’s textile and garment exports fell 2.88 per cent in January to April this year compared to the same period last year. Exports of yarns, fabric and related products were up 1.41 per cent year on year. Exports of garment and accessories were down 5.5 per cent year on year.

However, in May 2019 China’s textile and garment exports were up 1.65 per cent over the same period last year. Export of yarns, fabric and related products increased by 3.55 per cent compared with the same period of 2018. And exports of garment and accessories were down 0.11 per cent year on year.

Compared with the sharp growth and apparent slowdown in textile and apparel exports from January to April, China’s textile and garment exports stabilized in May, and the export performance was better than expected. Even in the face of the uncertainty brought about by the Sino-US trade war, the Chinese textile industry still reflects strong resilience and international competitiveness. China for instance continues to be a major supplier of innerwear like cotton and manmade fiber underwear as well as bras. This is likely attributable to the combination of the specialty manufacturing and materials needed to produce these items compared to more basic apparel.

Wednesday, 17 July 2019 12:48

Bemberg opens new showroom in New York

Bemberg, the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, opened its new Bemberg™ Lining Showroom in New York. This is the first showroom totally dedicated to unique, high quality Bemberg lining fabrics. The initial focus will be on a homeland supply of Japanese-made lining manufacturers, introducing them to the market in a new and dynamic way.

The showroom was hosted by CHH America, whose remit will be to communicate the advantage and values in choosing Bemberg™ for the best linings option, and how its unique, responsible profile can add quality and brand value appeal to tailoring based apparel brands, designers and upcoming fashion students. The unique offer from this showroom is a dedicated new stock service, managed by CHH, where they will deliver even small meterage on demand.

In addition to this service, Bemberg™ is presented a full range of new fabric innovations at Premiere Vision New York. These include manufacturers from around the world including SMI, Sidonios, Ekoten, Ipeker and Silver from the US, as well as the luxury linings already installed at the showroom.

Hohenstein has been presented the certificate for the Baden-Württemberg support programme ECOfit alongwith four other certified companies. The certificate was presented for the company’s new laboratory ventilation system which saves almost 100 tonne of carbon dioxide per year. Another unusual feature at Hohenstein is the installing of nesting aids for woodpeckers: these provide the birds with new habitats and at the same time prevent permanent damage to the building façades.

Since April 2018, Hohenstein has taken part in eight ECOfit workshops with companies from the Ludwigsburg region. Together they developed individual actions for better company environmental and climate protection. An inspection was then carried out by an independent commission.

Lectra has signed an agreement with shareholders of the Belgium company Retviews to acquire 100 per cent of capital and voting rights. The transaction involves the acquisition of 70 per cent of Retviews for €8 million today. The acquisition of the remainder of capital and voting rights will take place in three times in July 2020, July 2021 and July 2022 for amounts of about 0.9 times 2020 revenues, 0.7 times 2021 revenues and 0.5 times 2022 revenues, respectively. These amounts will come from Lectra’s available cash, with no financing from the bank.

Founded in 2017, Retviews has developed an innovative technological offer that enables fashion brands to analyse real-time market data, in order to increase their sales and margins. Today, more than 30 brands use Retviews in France and Belgium. By uniting with Retviews, Lectra aims to help customers to quickly enter the era of Industry 4.0. Thanks to artificial intelligence algorithms, Retviews’ offer enables brands to make the best decisions at every moment throughout the life cycle of a product, in order to optimise their collections Together, the two companies will create synergies with Lectra’s current offer, develop their technology and market their solution to fashion customers worldwide, thanks notably to Retviews 32 sales and services subsidiaries covering more than 100 countries.

Wednesday, 17 July 2019 12:44

Trade war impacts global cotton trade

The China-US trade war has adversely impacted the world cotton market. The trade war not only impacts the raw cotton market, it shifts the buying logistics for cotton yarn and the fabric markets as well. When the cotton market falls, demand is usually stimulated. Futures prices have moved with the progression of the trade war. For some reason, this drop in the futures market hasn’t stimulated that demand.

China needs cotton. In 2014, its stocks were approaching 67 million bales, of which 51 million were reserves. Those reserves have been reduced. Chinese cotton buyers are loving the huge crop Brazil had last year. Brazilian cotton producers grew 12.8 million bales of fiber — averaging almost 1,500 pounds an acre-- in 2018. From 2014 to 2016, Brazil was harvesting only six million to seven million bales but is anticipated to press 12 million bales this year. Brazil consumes only 3.7 million bales domestically, so much of its cotton is aimed at the export market. In 2016, Brazil exported 2.8 million bales, but this year is anticipating shipping over eight million bales. This has put a damper on Chinese demand for US cotton. Brazil will ship more cotton to China — once the United States’ largest cotton customer.

New guidelines are laying out better denim manufacturing practices that focus on garment durability, recyclability, and traceability. The popular denim pants of today are a far cry from the tough work wear that they were originally designed to be, and are often so stretchy, distressed, and heavily dyed that they last a fraction of the time that their less-trendy predecessors did.

In an effort to fix this problem, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has released a set of guidelines. The guidelines strive to tackle waste, pollution, and other harmful practices in the denim industry. They set out minimum requirements on garment durability, material health, recyclability and traceability. The guidelines are based on the principles of the circular economy and will work to ensure jeans last longer, can easily be recycled, and are made in a way that is better for the environment and the health of garment workers. A pair of jeans should be so designed it can withstand at least 30 washes. The garment should include clear product care information on labels; contain at least 98 per cent cellulose fibers made from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods; should not contain metal rivets or keep these to a minimum; and should be easy to disassemble for recycling.

Wednesday, 17 July 2019 12:42

Indonesia fumbles with modest fashion

Indonesia has struggled to penetrate the global modest fashion market. A heavy focus on its large domestic market and lack of attention to exports had caused the country to perform poorly. E-commerce companies fail to pay designers. Unethical event organizers ask clients to pay upfront for a show, than fail to deliver. Indonesian designers are often unable to follow through when it comes to fulfilling orders. Products are sometimes rejected because they fall short on quality, with sloppy workmanship such as poorly finished seams and stitches among the most common complaints. Indonesian designers do branding and don't focus too much on selling. Indonesian designers are unable to scale up output to meet growing overseas demand.

Established textile manufacturers are more interested in mass production than producing smaller runs of designer clothes. Highly skilled seamstresses are scarce. Indonesian designers typically focus on ethnic wear and bold colors, which although appreciated by the domestic market often don’t resonate with customers in more conservative Middle Eastern countries, or with those in Muslim-minority western nations who don't want to stand out from the crowd more than they do already.

Modest fashion can be worn for religious or cultural reasons, or by women who just prefer to dress conservatively.

Wednesday, 17 July 2019 12:40

India and China consume more than exports

The share of goods traded across the border in both India and China has fallen by 5.6 percentage points. This decline does not reflect trade disputes or hint at an impending slowdown. Instead, it reflects healthy economic development in China, India and the rest of emerging Asia. More goods are consumed domestically than exported. As consumption rises, more of what gets made in these countries is now sold locally instead of being exported to the west. Over the decade from 2007 to 2017, China almost tripled its production of labor intensive goods. At the same time, the share of gross output China exports has decreased from 15.5 per cent to 8.3 per cent. As wages rose in China, and the country moved into higher-value activities, its share of global exports of labor-intensive goods declined by three percentage points. India has similarly been exporting a smaller share of its output over time.

In 1997, Asia accounted for only 36 per cent of the 5,000 largest global firms but by 2017, that share was up to 43 per cent. The countries represented in this group also drastically changed. China accounts for the biggest increase by far. The number of Indian firms in the top 5,000 global firms list has shot up to 142 from 25 during 1995-97.